IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: POINTERGUY on Jan 03, 2014, 07:25 PM
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I wanted to give a review for anyone considering using a cordless drill with a ice auger. While researching this on the web it would appear it can be difficult to hold the drill and not end up with a broken or bruised hand/arm while drilling, do to the torque from the drill. Here is what I have put together.
I recently purchased a Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit (plate only) for $59.99 from Gander Mountain. I paired this with a 6" mora hand auger and a Dewalt 20 volt Lit cordless drill with 1.5 ah batteries and 300 watts of power for $99.99. I also tested with a 8" lazer and mora auger.
This set up with the dewalt drill was was able to drill 17 holes through 6" of ice with the 6" mora auger bit on one battery. When I tried to 8" lazer I barley got one hole drilled with a fresh battery and about killed the drill. While the results were fair, I was not sold on this yet.
On my second attempt to build a cordless drill auger with the Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit I paired it with a 18 volt Rigid lith hammer drill with 3.0 ah batteries and over 600 lbs of torque for $199.99. I tested this on Saginaw Bay over the past few days on 12" of ice and here are the results.
I first tried the 8" mora and was able to drill one hole but the drill was working to do so. I could of drilled a few more but didn't want to kill the drill.. I then remove the 8" auger and put on the 6" mora and a new battery. I was able to drill 39 holes with ease through 12" of ice on one battery. It drills the hole in a matter of seconds, with very little pressure applied. I was very happy with the results and this auger is now with me on every trip. Since I like to use 8" hole or bigger for walleye, I have been drilling two 6" holes side by side while on the bay and it has worked out great and I really see no need for a bigger auger bit. They sell an extension for $14.95 which I will be purchasing since it looks like this will be an epic year for ice conditions.
Here are a few more things I really like about this set up.
The total unit might weigh 12-13lbs
It chews threw the ice with ease
You pull the trigger and start drilling and its silent
Because of the Clam plate it is very easy to handle when drilling
I can drill 78 6" holes through 12 inches of ice on two batteries or a total of 936 inches of ice.
Here is a pic of my new Clam Ice Auger
(http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCN2897.JPG)
For anyone looking to use a cordless drill with an auger, I highly recommend this setup. The key is to use a high torque drill on the lowest gear setting and 18 volt 3 ah lith batters or higher.
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same drill i have with a 7 inch lazer works awesome, great review!!!!!
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My buddy picked up one this year with clams 6" auger. It cut thru the ice nicely with his Dewalt 20v drill. Combo was super light (13-14 lbs). We only drilled about 25 holes (6-7" ice) total but he had 2 batteries just in case. Im told if you remove the batteries and keep them warm it will last a lot longer than if you just leave it out in cold. As stated, it is a very compact setup, probably only 40" or so so get the extension.
With the comments about battery life however I am concerned about mid season and longevity. I also wonder with a higher quality auger like a nils if results might improve. I know my mora was a Piece.
I hole hop and have punched over 150 Holes on 1 outing with my gas auger.
If you go to same spot and fish everytime this would work great, if you chase fish or have thick ice, I might be more skeptical.
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Great review! This setup is amazing! I still have to get the adapter because the conversion kits sold out so fast that I was only able to get the Drill plate and I want to hook it up with my Kluge 6" bit.
Good fishing,
Corey Bechtold
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I could drill all day with my 4" Fin Bore head ;D, just happen to have a few Rigid 18v LI drills and batteries around too. Nice part is, with Rigid's lifetime warranty, if you kill a battery or drill, you get another one free of charge. You won't get that from the Auger Manufacturers.
May just have to look into that setup.
RG
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same drill i have with a 7 inch lazer works awesome, great review!!!!!
How many holes can you get one one battery with the 7" lazer and in how thick of ice?
Thanks
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Interesting that bumping up to an 8" basically kills the concept.
Thanks for the detailed review.
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Do the math. there is almost twice as much ice in a 8" hole vs a 6 ;)
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I fully understand the mathematics, but find it interesting that you can go from basically 30-40 holes with a 6" to essentially none. Logic will lead you to believe that if you are drilling nearly 50% more volume then you would be able to do roughly half the number of holes. But I"m sure there is a threshold in the energy/torque delivered by a drill in which it says, "no mas".
8" hole is my preference and it seems that this technology isn't quite there yet, but understandably the product might not be driven at the 8" market.
From everything I've seen and used, nothing battery powered has come close to an Ice Gator.
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It is not 50% more volume. That is where most folks' understanding goes south. pi X r X r X h is the formula. Going from 6 to 8 changes the r X r part from 9 to 16 resulting in 78% more work. You are right about the drill going "no mas". :)
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My math says that 12" of ice would be 340" of ice for a 6" hole and 603" of ice for an 8" hole. Which would be about 46% more ice to drill in each hole.
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Your math is good but you analysis of the results is not. 603-340=263. This is the difference between the holes. 236/340=77%this is the percent difference.
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If I need calculus to drill a hole, I'll stick with my 4" in Fin Bor ;D
Simply put, the drill doesn't have enough ooomph to drill 8" holes.
RG
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the cold must have retarded my math skillz. LOL my bad. :)
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If I need calculus to drill a hole, I'll stick with my 4" in Fin Bor ;D
Simply put, the drill doesn't have enough ooomph to drill 8" holes.
RG
I love my 4 inch auger except my U/W camera won't go down the hole. You can drill 4 holes 4" with the same work it takes to drill 1 hole 8". ;D
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I wanted to give a review for anyone considering using a cordless drill with a ice auger. While researching this on the web it would appear it can be difficult to hold the drill and not end up with a broken or bruised hand/arm while drilling, do to the torque from the drill. Here is what I have put together.
I recently purchased a Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit (plate only) for $59.99 from Gander Mountain. I paired this with a 6" mora hand auger and a Dewalt 20 volt Lit cordless drill with 1.5 ah batteries and 300 watts of power for $99.99. I also tested with a 8" lazer and mora auger.
This set up with the dewalt drill was was able to drill 17 holes through 6" of ice with the 6" mora auger bit on one battery. When I tried to 8" lazer I barley got one hole drilled with a fresh battery and about killed the drill. While the results were fair, I was not sold on this yet.
On my second attempt to build a cordless drill auger with the Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit I paired it with a 18 volt Rigid lith hammer drill with 3.0 ah batteries and over 600 lbs of torque for $199.99. I tested this on Saginaw Bay over the past few days on 12" of ice and here are the results.
I first tried the 8" mora and was able to drill one hole but the drill was working to do so. I could of drilled a few more but didn't want to kill the drill.. I then remove the 8" auger and put on the 6" mora and a new battery. I was able to drill 39 holes with ease through 12" of ice on one battery. It drills the hole in a matter of seconds, with very little pressure applied. I was very happy with the results and this auger is now with me on every trip. Since I like to use 8" hole or bigger for walleye, I have been drilling two 6" holes side by side while on the bay and it has worked out great and I really see no need for a bigger auger bit. They sell an extension for $14.95 which I will be purchasing since it looks like this will be an epic year for ice conditions.
Here are a few more things I really like about this set up.
The total unit might weigh 12-13lbs
It chews threw the ice with ease
You pull the trigger and start drilling and its silent
Because of the Clam plate it is very easy to handle when drilling
I can drill 78 6" holes through 12 inches of ice on two batteries or a total of 936 inches of ice.
Here is a pic of my new Clam Ice Auger
(http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCN2897.JPG)
For anyone looking to use a cordless drill with an auger, I highly recommend this setup. The key is to use a high torque drill on the lowest gear setting and 18 volt 3 ah lith batters or higher.
Is this the drill your using now. ??
18V Lithium-Ion X4 Hammer Drill 615 in. lbs 1/2" chuck ----Model #R8611501K https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/x4-18-volt-lithium-ion-hammer-drill Thanks For your help
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Yes, I am currently using the Rigid hammer drill. As I continue to use this set up this winter, I find myself liking it more and more. In the future I am going to pair it up with a 7" lazer auger and see how it performs.
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I got an Ion last year and it eats up the ice with an 8in auger.
I put my 6in mora on it and punched 80 holes thru 13in of ice and still had battery left. It was insane.
The ion with the 6in bit on it is about 19lbs.
I do like the fact that these serve a dual purpose. During the off season for ice, you have a real nice cordless to use as well.
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Can anybuddy tell me were I can get 1 of thoses clams ket I been looking every where for it with no luck please and thank you
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Interesting that bumping up to an 8" basically kills the concept.
Thanks for the detailed review.
I have noticed a significant difference using a 6" and 8" hand auger , both with sharp blades.
Think about it, it is cutting 25% more surface.
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Nice review! I have been punching holes with a 36v Dewalt for about 4 years. I use a 4" & 7" Strike master auger. Do you have to put much downward pressure on it? Is that hard on the back? When drilling, I keep my drill close to the body and let my fat belly do the work. Not recommended on bare ice without cleats. ;D
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Can anybuddy tell me were I can get 1 of thoses clams ket I been looking every where for it with no luck please and thank you
Good luck!! all retailers I searched are saying sold out for the season. Maybe someone will get another shipment in.
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Nice review! I have been punching holes with a 36v Dewalt for about 4 years. I use a 4" & 7" Strike master auger. Do you have to put much downward pressure on it? Is that hard on the back? When drilling, I keep my drill close to the body and let my fat belly do the work. Not recommended on bare ice without cleats. ;D
When using the clam auger plate, I apply very little pressure when drilling holes, and you don't have to hold it right against your body like with the drill adapters. Its just like drilling holes with a gas auger, but with less pressure applied and no binding. I think clam had no idea how big of a hit this product would be, hopefully they are making more as I type this. There are still a few out there you just need to search the web.
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How many holes can you get one one battery with the 7" lazer and in how thick of ice?
Thanks
well i think the ice was 8 to 9 inches and i got 30 holes per battery
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I use a Dewalt 20v with 1.5 lithium batt ...today I got 8 holes with a 8in Mora drill in 8 in of ice. I plan on getting a 6 Lazer this weekend . Hope it increases the number of holes per battery
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Clam recommends a Lithium Ion drill of at least 3ah. My buddy uses the Dewalt 20V that has a 4ah battery and he's selling his gas auger now and only using the drill plate!!! @)
Good luck,
Corey Bechtold
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I just ordered a second plate from bass pro ($49.99+s&h) I had to call the main number since they were not listed on-line and they had a few left. I paired my clam plate with a Milwaukee fuel brush less 18v. It has 725in/lbs of torque and 50 extra RPM over it's brushed counterpart. I bought two of the xc-4.0 batteries and built a 15" extension for my 7" strikemaster mora auger. I easily punched 30+ holes in 12+ inches of ice last weekend on one battery with power to spare. I simply set the auger down where I want a hole and squeeze the trigger, the 13 pound auger is all the down force needed to make the hole. I have yet to need my second battery in any of my outings this season. I really need to see exactly how many inches of ice I really can do..... It just hasn't taken 100 holes for me to find at least a few takers this season. In fact it may work a little too well since I'm ordering the second plate for a buddy that ran mine once and is ready to give up the gas for good. (which means I get to assemble another drill auger somehow???) I highly recommend the clam drill plate and IMO the Milwaukee fuel with the 4.0 batteries is unbeatable in the cordless drill auger world. My 2 cents. ;D ;D ;D
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I am getting ready to load up and head to Saginaw Bay for the day. This will be a good test for the combo as the ice is 22-28" thick. I will be using my 6" mora and drilling two holes side by side for walleye. I will report back the results this weekend. Also the 20 volt dewalt with the 1.5ah batteries just didn't cut it for me, not enough torque or battery life. This is why I went with the 18 volt rigid hammer drill with over 600lbs of torque and the 3ah batteries.
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I'm using similar setup rigid drill 18v with a strike master adapter that cost 12.99.7" mora I can get 10-15 holes thru up to 10" of ice per battery.Tried drilling thru 17" last week and was a no go.It was also 5 degrees out in 15 mph winds...not ideal.Your not supposed to put any pressure on drill when drilling holes not sure if those handles really help.Just my 2 cents.Also keep the battery packs as warm as possible
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I use an old school 18v Ridgid Nicad drill, with around 510 or 550 in-lbs of torque, mated with a 6" lazer auger, and an adapter called the "ice kicker" off ebay for about $20 shipped. My drill has the auxiliary handle which I have mounted opposite of the drill handle, so it's stable and setup like a pogo-stick or jack hammer handles. I can get around 20+ holes through 10-12" of ice per battery pack and have even used it through 20" of ice, but I only get about a dozen holes then. The kit came with 2 batteries and bought an additional battery along with it 7 years ago, all with a lifetime warranty. I refreshed the batteries a few years ago with the warranty, at no charge, so it's like I have a brand new kit again. I also picked up a 4th battery a few years ago, but that didn't come with a lifetime warranty. The auger adapter was one of the best investments I've bought for ice fishing to date! In my area in Iowa, we only get around 10" of ice per year average, sometimes up to 18" but a little over 12" this year. My gas auger hasn't seen the ice the past 2 years and I've never run out of battery power on the ice, and i drill lots of holes. I see the guy came out with an "ice kicker 2" adapter with a drill plate, handle, and reduction gears, so supposedly you can use up to 8" augers. I have no experience with the ice kicker 2, but I would think you could get even more holes with that unit. You can look it up on ebay or youtube, the maker states. However, I see no need to go beyond my setup I have now along with my gas auger on standby when necessary...
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Last year by buddy picked up the nils master hand auger with disc and drill hook up. Not sure what drill he is using but the thing cuts like a dream with no hand torque or twist. He drilled 50 plus holes of 8 inch ice and had plenty juice left to go before we got off the ice.
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Well I fished on Saginaw Bay yesterday and drilled some holes with the new setup. I drill about 12 holes total with the drill auger for our fish finders and we used the 8" gas auger for fishing holes. The ice ranged from 22-36" of ice. The drill auger chewed right through all ice, well under half the time it took the gas auger. The only problem that I seen was when drilling through 36" of ice the drill stopped a few times/paused then started back and kept drilling. I had an extension on it as well. It only paused a few times however but it started drilling again and kept going. Must be either overheating and auto shut off or something like that. I changed the battery the first time thinking it was dead, so I put a new battery on and kept drilling. I kept the batteries in a insulated lunch bag with a hand warmer and we were on the ice about 10 hrs. I always left the batteries in the bag on the quad all day. I couldn't believe how well this did in such thick ice. When I got home one battery was still fully charged and the other still had about 3/4 charge left. So I prob dill a little over 200" of ice with it yesterday. I only wish I could use a 8" auger, but after previous test, the 8" is to much for this drill to handle. I am more than happy with my set up.
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I just ordered a second plate from bass pro ($49.99+s&h) I had to call the main number since they were not listed on-line and they had a few left. I paired my clam plate with a Milwaukee fuel brush less 18v. It has 725in/lbs of torque and 50 extra RPM over it's brushed counterpart. I bought two of the xc-4.0 batteries and built a 15" extension for my 7" strikemaster mora auger. I easily punched 30+ holes in 12+ inches of ice last weekend on one battery with power to spare. I simply set the auger down where I want a hole and squeeze the trigger, the 13 pound auger is all the down force needed to make the hole. I have yet to need my second battery in any of my outings this season. I really need to see exactly how many inches of ice I really can do..... It just hasn't taken 100 holes for me to find at least a few takers this season. In fact it may work a little too well since I'm ordering the second plate for a buddy that ran mine once and is ready to give up the gas for good. (which means I get to assemble another drill auger somehow???) I highly recommend the clam drill plate and IMO the Milwaukee fuel with the 4.0 batteries is unbeatable in the cordless drill auger world. My 2 cents. ;D ;D ;D
I now own the Milwaukee drill as well. I did a side by side test with a brand new Dewalt 36v and the M18 brushless destroyed it! I have owned Dewalt tools for over two decades and am heading over to Milwaukee fast. Btw, my test was with a 2 9/16" bit in a 2x6. The results were not even close. I paid $500 for the Dewalt. The M18 was $300 with an impact and two 4ah batteries. (reconditioned) The drill works so well, I still fail to see the need for the Clam auger plate. I might buy it just because I like new toys.
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The pausing that you are describing is probably due to the brushes heating up which causes your batteries to shut down due to over amperage. Thats what makes brush less drills so nice.
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great review. We don't get anywhere near the ice you a drilling but it looks like a great way to go for these old shoulders
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Prospector best part of the auger plate is that it gives you much better control especially when first starting a hole and it is VERY cool. The brushless Milwaukee Fuel 18v is a animal.... People really would have to try this setup to fully understand what im talking about. Invest the 49.95 in the clam plate and you will see exactly what im talking about. I really cannot believe that people are walking into home depot and walking past the best brushless drill on the market to get a rigid brushed drill. It must be the warranty I guess, since they are comparably priced. IMO its the best auger setup out there.
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The pausing that you are describing is probably due to the brushes heating up which causes your batteries to shut down due to over amperage. Thats what makes brush less drills so nice.
I didn't know that, but makes sense. Maybe I need to upgrade to the milwaukee m18 fuel 18v. Has anyone used this drill paired with a 8" auger yet? I wonder if it would work, and how many inches of ice you're getting per battery.
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The brushless M18 will shut down as well. I think it has to do with heat build up with continuous use. I have only had it shut off in wood though. I was using a 6" Nills and cannot speak for the 8 yet. The 6" was unreal!
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My rigid 18volt lithium ion has never paused on me or stopped.The only time it stops is when the battery is dead.I drilled 15 7" holes one after another today thru 8" of ice with one battery that still had power.The whole rigid kit drill,impact,sawzall,trim saw,and flashlight was $399 and gave me a third battery for another $50.Im in construction and my experience with dewalt is battery life sucks,I like Milwaukee but they don't offer enough tools in their kits for the price they charge.I threw out my dewalt 20 v kit when I got the rigid set and have been using the drill at work just about every day and as long as the ice is 10" or less I always use it to drill . Three years with no problems and couldn't be more satisfied.
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;) Hats off to your review. Real kudos to your willingness to share this information with others. I am somewhat wary of these setups due to the investment required compared to a gas setup tho. What is anyones opinion regarding the comparison between gas and drill augers for overall economics
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Financial investment??? Ummmm it is totally minimal. My milwaukee fuel 18v setup is totally attainable for $250 in fact i got mine built for just under $225. I own a eskimo 8" gas auger and i kinda got sick of the gas auger problems, 1) mixing gas 2) gas/oil on my hands 3) hard starting 4) heavy auger..... So I made up my mind I was going electric. After much research I decided to build my own auger.... and I have no regrets!!! The Milwaukee fuel 18v is THE drill for the setup. I now own a inexpensive, 13 lb, powerful and fast 7" electric ice auger that is perfect for the ice fishing that I do. It truly is a fantastic way to go, I would highly recommend it to anyone that has a hand auger they are willing to convert to this type of setup. I cant say enough about it, easily the best ice fishing investment I have ever made!!!
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Financial investment??? Ummmm it is totally minimal. My milwaukee fuel 18v setup is totally attainable for $250 in fact i got mine built for just under $225.
Just curious where you found Milwaukee fuel 18v with 4 ah batteries and charger for under $225.00??
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The Milwaukee fuel 18v is THE drill for the setup.
Firstly, there is no "best" drill for this setup.
However if your going to invest in this setup it behooves you to check out each manufacturers warranty. Reason being: Your using this drill for a purpose and in an environment it was not designed for.
After alot of research, the Rigid brand drill offer the best warranty. Lifetime warranty on the drill and the batteries (yes both, i confirmed this). For repairs/replacements you can take it back to a Home Depot with a service department. They have the parts to fix or replace it there.. All you have to do is register your product online. Takes about 5 mins, super easy..
This is what I found, please feel free to reply with any corrections.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/warranty_zpsd6d392f2.jpg)
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I have an 18v Makita with the old style pod batteries that I use to drive a 6" eskimo. Worked great for the first couple years, especially on the relatively small amount of ice we see in MA. But as the batteries aged the performance has gone down hill, as you might expect. One battery is fine and gets me through about 50 inches of ice with a 6" auger attached (2.5 holes through 20 inches of ice last weekend) before dying. The other battery is totally useless on the ice. Trouble is around the house the drill is fine and the "diminished" battery life isn't any trouble.
With the cost of replacing the batteries what it is I'm thinking I'd be better off just switching to a small used gas job or saving up for an ion/ice gator. Especially given that I go up north a few times a season and have to contend with serious amounts of ice.
I loved my drill setup, but will be leaving it behind. For anyone still dealing with the torque problem, you don't get bruised or tossed around if you brace the drill against your thigh first, and then lean into it as you drill.
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Most of these newer hammer drills come with the attachable T Handle. Allowing you to hang onto the drill with two hands.
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Look at "destroying my Ridgid drill" on youtube. It was enough for me to buy a Milwaukee. If I lived near a service center, I would buy a Ridgid for sure. If one of you guy would be so kind, please post a link to the video. Prepare to laugh! WARNING: Some choice words are used.
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looks cool @)...but what temps are we talking..from experience...anything with a battery will fail in colder temps..ive used every kind of battery on construction sites here in upper michigan...and ANYTHING...AND EVERYTHING with a battery will soon fail you in temps below 10 degrees.
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When I take out my portable my clam auger is all I bring. Were at almost 20" of ice now with no problem. I just lift it up every six or so inches to clear the shavings. I am using a old dewalt 18 volt and can get a dozen or so holes from a battery. I just bring a couple and leave the spares in the truck in a cooler.
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If one is fishing basicly for pan fish,it just seems to me that a 5 inch hole should be plenty big enough... :-\
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Look at "destroying my Ridgid drill" on youtube. It was enough for me to buy a Milwaukee. If I lived near a service center, I would buy a Ridgid for sure. If one of you guy would be so kind, please post a link to the video. Prepare to laugh! WARNING: Some choice words are used.
Are you referring to the video from two years ago of the guy who goes ballistic on his 3+yr old drill with a hammer?
If one is fishing basicly for pan fish,it just seems to me that a 5 inch hole should be plenty big enough... :-\
Most guys are using 6-7in augers. Which will fit alot of fish thru the ice. In order for a fish to get stuck in a 6in hole it would need a girth of over 19inches..
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Firstly, there is no "best" drill for this setup.
However if your going to invest in this setup it behooves you to check out each manufacturers warranty. Reason being: Your using this drill for a purpose and in an environment it was not designed for.
After alot of research, the Rigid brand drill offer the best warranty. Lifetime warranty on the drill and the batteries (yes both, i confirmed this). For repairs/replacements you can take it back to a Home Depot with a service department. They have the parts to fix or replace it there.. All you have to do is register your product online. Takes about 5 mins, super easy..
This is what I found, please feel free to reply with any corrections.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/warranty_zpsd6d392f2.jpg)
The Ridgid drill and batteries have a 3 year limited warranty! IF you register the tool, batteries and charger within 90 days you get a "lifetime service agreement"! You have to register!!!! Make sure and follow up on the registration and get your LSA number! If you buy a tool and return it and get a "over the counter replacement" it only has a 3 year warranty. Keep your receipt for any of the tools for warranty! Some will not warranty with out receipt!
And lastly (as someone else stated) that most warranties do not cover failure due to normal wear or tool abuse.
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I purchased the fuel drill for $85(drill only) and the batteries for $50 each all new off Amazon (I have seen used equipment go cheaper on ebay). I stared looking around in early fall and purchased a piece here and a piece there. Got my clam plate from BPS for $45 on a internet promotion xmas sale. I sold all of my Dewalt tools 7-8 yrs ago and moved exclusively to Milwaukee power tools, so i already had a charger. I looked on you tube at drill comparisons and talked to my tool guy at work and it became obvious that the fuel drill with it's 725 in/lbs of torque and increased rpm is the best choice for this project. I honestly do not care about a warranty since I'm sure that we are all probably voiding it anyway. I know that I am abusing my Milwaukee drill by strapping it to a clam drill plate, chucking it up to a 6-7-8" auger and then drilling a ton of holes in 12-24" of ice on a frigid lake. I'm just not honestly going to try to warranty a tool that I'm having so much fun abusing!!! ;D ;D ;D. The xc-4.0 batteries are perfect for this application. They just plug and play, providing full power down to zero degrees without any special warm storage or storing them in your pockets. IMO the Milwaukee fuel is easily the best drill for this setup!!!
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I think you will see the same performance out of either drill. One just has the warranty to cover your bases.
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good review
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I buy quality tools to cover my bases. In my job (commercial/industrial electrician) I have seen Milwaukee tools take INCREDIBLE abuse and continue to perform. Like I said, I am not personally worried about the warranty. If I were planning on trying to warranty the equipment 5yrs on the drill is more than adequate. Every li-ion battery, regardless of brand, has a charge life so 3yrs is plenty of warranty on the batteries. Check out "K-drill ice auger" on you tube. The Milwaukee fuel is the ONLY drill that they recommend for their system. That rigid tool video was hilarious and is also the way I feel about junk tools that don't perform thanks for posting.
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I buy quality tools to cover my bases. In my job (commercial/industrial electrician) I have seen Milwaukee tools take INCREDIBLE abuse and continue to perform. Like I said, I am not personally worried about the warranty. If I were planning on trying to warranty the equipment 5yrs on the drill is more than adequate. Every li-ion battery, regardless of brand, has a charge life so 3yrs is plenty of warranty on the batteries. Check out "K-drill ice auger" on you tube. The Milwaukee fuel is the ONLY drill that they recommend for their system. That rigid tool video was hilarious and is also the way I feel about junk tools that don't perform thanks for posting.
The Rigid drill is a quality product backed by THE BEST warranty. There really is no argument against that.
Does the same job as your Milwaukee, costs less, and has a better warranty..
As for the K-Drill, they suggest the Milwaukee because of how aggressive the blades/cutting head are on them.
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Do you own a drill auger setup baitbucket???
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Do you own a drill auger setup baitbucket???
Yup..
I bought this drill for his setup and for use around the house in the off season.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/IMG_20140202_091846_zps1707a0c1.jpg)
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Nice!!! You should do a review on the whole setup.
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Great reviews guys.......lots of info,i dragged my 8" strikemaster out on the ice on the weekend across snow
with 5" of slush on top.....what an ordeal .This thread has got me thinking for next year.
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Need a little help here. Have been reading all the posts refering to the Clam Cordless drill adaptor and cordless drills to use. Wondering if I should keep my 6" Nils as a hand auger, purchase the clam conversion kit & a new cordless drill or just purchase a new gas auger?
Does the Clam cordless adaptor fit on a 6" Nils? Thinking of purchasing a 20v lith Ion 1/2" Milw hammer drill w/ (2) 4 Amp batteries to make this work. I was told the Clam doesn't fit the Nils but the person that told me wasn't sure? My biggest problem is, we have 24-26" of ice. Obviously we don't have this kind of ice every year, but this year is the exception.
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Does the Clam cordless adaptor fit on a 6" Nils?
The Nils wont work as its not the telescoping handle.
Nice!!! You should do a review on the whole setup.
This thread is a review on the same setup im using..
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Look at "destroying my Ridgid drill" on youtube. It was enough for me to buy a Milwaukee. If I lived near a service center, I would buy a Ridgid for sure. If one of you guy would be so kind, please post a link to the video. Prepare to laugh! WARNING: Some choice words are used.
just watched,that dude was not happy with ridgid.
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just watched,that dude was not happy with ridgid.
The drill seemed fine. The brand new batteries are what set him off! The poor drill was caught in the crossfire and lost. ;D
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Anger management
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I picked up a K-Drill 6 inch and running it with a Milwaukee M-18 with the heavy duty battery. Love it. Already sold my 6 hand auger, and for all the ice I am faced with normally, don't need much more. Still haven't convinced myself to sell my 10 inch Mag 2000. in case I go where there may be 24 or more inches of ice.
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Baitbucket the original post was a rigid 18 with a mora auger. Is that a laser on your rigid setup?
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Baitbucket the original post was a rigid 18 with a mora auger. Is that a laser on your rigid setup?
Its a finbore auger, both use shaving style blades. Will be little to no difference. The real test is the drill, and him and I have the same one.
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I picked up a K-Drill 6 inch and running it with a Milwaukee M-18 with the heavy duty battery. Love it. Already sold my 6 hand auger, and for all the ice I am faced with normally, don't need much more. Still haven't convinced myself to sell my 10 inch Mag 2000. in case I go where there may be 24 or more inches of ice.
IFF, couple of questions for you.
1, How thick was the ice
2, How many holes with one battery
3, Do you have the 3.0AH battery or the 4.0AH
I used the K-drill with the Ridgid 18V hammer Drill 3.0AH batteries, 7 degree temp. 12"-14" of ice, cut like I was going though butter but only 7-8 holes per battery >:( when I got home I tried the batteries out before recharging and they still had a good charge in them. Makes me think maybe drill or batteries went into overload. Maybe I should have purchased the Milwaukee M-18 Fuel with 4.0AH batteries $299. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
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IFF, couple of questions for you.
1, How thick was the ice
2, How many holes with one battery
3, Do you have the 3.0AH battery or the 4.0AH
I used the K-drill with the ridgid 18V hammer, 7 degree temp. 12"-14" of ice, cut like I was going though butter but only 7-8 holes per battery >:( when I got home I tried the batteries out before recharging and they still had a good charge in them. Makes me think maybe drill or batteries went into overload. Maybe I should have purchased the Milwaukee M-18 Fuel with 4.0AH batteries $299. Any input would be appreciated.
When I did the test with the ridgid hammer drill on 16" of ice the temp was around 0-5 degs. I drilled 39 holes, one after the other through 16" of ice until the battery died. I keep the batteries in a thermal lunch bag with hand warmers. I also drilled about a dozen 6"holes last weekend through 24-30" of ice and still had plenty of charge on the one battery used. I am getting ready to pick up new blades for my mora 8" auger and test it this weekend on about 24-30" of ice. After watching the k-drill video, I think the problem may be the speed that is required to cut the holes? But this is only a guess. The mora blades shave the ice, where as a lazer cuts more aggressive. I will post my findings after the weekend.
Thanks
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Had my batteries in a thermal lunch bag also, but no hand warmers. Your results were with a 6" Mora ?
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Yes, my test results were with a 6" mora auger. I am testing the 8" mora this weekend. I am also working on another project, I am going to weld a 1/4-1/2" wood screw on the bottom of the six inch auger. i am hoping by doing this I can easily drill two 6" holes side by side. The screw should act as a guide for the auger and prevent it jumping all around when trying to drill holes side by side. If this works than it may be suitable for fishing walleye with a six inch auger through thick ice.
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Check out cordless drills-reviews-.com. Lots of info on drills / batteries.
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I used the K-drill with the Ridgid 18V hammer Drill 3.0AH batteries, 7 degree temp. 12"-14" of ice, cut like I was going though butter but only 7-8 holes per battery >:( when I got home I tried the batteries out before recharging and they still had a good charge in them. Makes me think maybe drill or batteries went into overload. Maybe I should have purchased the Milwaukee M-18 Fuel with 4.0AH batteries $299. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Because of how aggressive the head is on the K-Drill the extra Torque from the milwaukee is needed. The less aggressive Shaver blades, like whats on most hand augers require less torque and u can use drills in the 600lb torque range.
To give you an idea as to how aggressive the K-Drill is. I have heard people have tried to use it on the Ion and it binds up the Ion.
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Because of how aggressive the head is on the K-Drill the extra Torque from the milwaukee is needed. The less aggressive Shaver blades, like whats on most hand augers require less torque and u can use drills in the 600lb torque range.
To give you an idea as to how aggressive the K-Drill is. I have heard people have tried to use it on the Ion and it binds up the Ion.
I bought the Milwaukee fuel series with the 4.0 amp hour battery and used it yesterday for the first time. I used it on my 6 inch strike master auger. I got 30 holes through 12 inches of ice. I checked the battery life and it was on half. Couldn't be happier and I still have another full battery. Weighs five pound, stores easily in my sled. Can't find a problem.
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Its a great drill. Guys are seeing similar results with other drills as well.
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I just bought a M18 Fuel , have a Lazer 6 inch, with new blades, And conversion kit. Will try it next week, I am 63 years old, Last time I went out I drilled 4 holes though 10 inchs of ice, Thought I was going to fall over, doing it by hand. Used to be easy, Hope this new setup helps.
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I just bought a M18 Fuel , have a Lazer 6 inch, with new blades, And conversion kit. Will try it next week, I am 63 years old, Last time I went out I drilled 4 holes though 10 inchs of ice, Thought I was going to fall over, doing it by hand. Used to be easy, Hope this new setup helps.
You will be pleasantly surprised with this set up, little to no effort drilling holes.
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Firstly, there is no "best" drill for this setup.
However if your going to invest in this setup it behooves you to check out each manufacturers warranty. Reason being: Your using this drill for a purpose and in an environment it was not designed for.
After alot of research, the Rigid brand drill offer the best warranty. Lifetime warranty on the drill and the batteries (yes both, i confirmed this). For repairs/replacements you can take it back to a Home Depot with a service department. They have the parts to fix or replace it there.. All you have to do is register your product online. Takes about 5 mins, super easy..
This is what I found, please feel free to reply with any corrections.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/warranty_zpsd6d392f2.jpg)
You folks should not let the warranty issue weigh too heavily on your decision. Most of the "lifetime" warranties only apply to the tool life -- that's defined as the production run for that specific model. Since these are electronic devices, you can expect models to be discontinued on a frequent basis. Once the tool is discontinued, the manufacturer won't support it.
-- Sentence removed by author --
And, as someone else has mentioned, once a manufacturer figures out how we are using these drills, they won't honor ANY claim.
Buy quality. Buy value. Don't buy warranty.
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AMEN!!!
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I just bought a M18 Fuel , have a Lazer 6 inch, with new blades, And conversion kit. Will try it next week, I am 63 years old, Last time I went out I drilled 4 holes though 10 inchs of ice, Thought I was going to fall over, doing it by hand. Used to be easy, Hope this new setup helps.
With the T handle that comes with these drills i passed on the added weight (~7lbs) of the clam drill plate.
I went with just a drill adapter that goes to the chuck, so I can remove it and use the drill around the house if needed. I can also pop it off and use it to screw in my ice anchors which is an added bonus as well.
I was going to use foam as flotation incase the chuck became lose and the auger fell down a hole. But instead i made a plate out of 1/8in aluminum that secures the adapter to the drill with a piece of bungee cord. Kind of like the Ice Master Adapters. http://www.fishusa.com/product/Ice-Master-Ice-Auger-Power-Drill-Conversion-Kit?source=googleps&gclid=CJCJhYD4t7wCFTJp7AodpzAAHQ (http://www.fishusa.com/product/Ice-Master-Ice-Auger-Power-Drill-Conversion-Kit?source=googleps&gclid=CJCJhYD4t7wCFTJp7AodpzAAHQ)
Here is the one I made. The whole setup w/auger is 11lbs
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/IMG_20140205_154933_zps5f1a83d5.jpg)
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What fee? News to me.
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You folks should not let the warranty issue weigh too heavily on your decision. Most of the "lifetime" warranties only apply to the tool life -- that's defined as the production run for that specific model. Since these are electronic devices, you can expect models to be discontinued on a frequent basis. Once the tool is discontinued, the manufacturer won't support it.
I contacted Rigid regarding their warranty. The tool is covered for as long as you own the drill..
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What fee? News to me.
News to me too
Per the Rigid warranty website:
"What We Will Do to Correct Problems
Warranted products will be repaired or replaced, at Ridge Tool’s option, and returned at no charge; or, if after three attempts to repair or replace during the warranty period the product is still defective, you can elect to receive a full refund of your purchase price."
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I contacted Rigid regarding their warranty. The tool is covered for as long as you own the drill..
I was told that if they do not have the tool in the future, you would get a newer model. Ridgid tools seem good to me, the batteries are what made me hold off for now.
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With the T handle that comes with these drills i passed on the added weight (~7lbs) of the clam drill plate.
I went with just a drill adapter that goes to the chuck, so I can remove it and use the drill around the house if needed. I can also pop it off and use it to screw in my ice anchors which is an added bonus as well.
I was going to use foam as flotation incase the chuck became lose and the auger fell down a hole. But instead i made a plate out of 1/8in aluminum that secures the adapter to the drill with a piece of bungee cord. Kind of like the Ice Master Adapters. http://www.fishusa.com/product/Ice-Master-Ice-Auger-Power-Drill-Conversion-Kit?source=googleps&gclid=CJCJhYD4t7wCFTJp7AodpzAAHQ (http://www.fishusa.com/product/Ice-Master-Ice-Auger-Power-Drill-Conversion-Kit?source=googleps&gclid=CJCJhYD4t7wCFTJp7AodpzAAHQ)
Here is the one I made. The whole setup w/auger is 11lbs
Great design!
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg121/willcooper4/IMG_20140205_154933_zps5f1a83d5.jpg)
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I was told that if they do not have the tool in the future, you would get a newer model. Ridgid tools seem good to me, the batteries are what made me hold off for now.
What is it about the rigid batteries that has you worried? Please dont say that 2yr old video posted above of the 3+ yr old drill.
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The batteries were brand new from Ridgid. :wacko: They replaced them under warranty. :woot: What video are you bringing up?
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You folks should not let the warranty issue weigh too heavily on your decision. Most of the "lifetime" warranties only apply to the tool life -- that's defined as the production run for that specific model. Since these are electronic devices, you can expect models to be discontinued on a frequent basis. Once the tool is discontinued, the manufacturer won't support it.
Also, the Rigid warranty requires a substantial flat fee for each claim.
And, as someone else has mentioned, once a manufacturer figures out how we are using these drills, they won't honor ANY claim.
Buy quality. Buy value. Don't buy warranty.
Ridgid does not have a "lifetime warranty". It is a 3 year warranty and if you register it within 90 days it has a "life time service agreement".
Just because the tool is discontinued doesn't mean they will not support it.
There is no "substantial flat fee for each claim" the customer pays nothing if it is under warranty not even return shipping.
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The batteries were brand new from Ridgid. :wacko: They replaced them under warranty. :woot: What video are you bringing up?
You have lost me here. Are you referring to the video posted of when the guy goes nutty on his drill with a hammer?
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Yup.
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Whats The best setting on the drill for ice drilling? Millwakee Fuel m18 6 inch auger Lazer Ice eater Conversion kit. Thanks
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what is the difference between a lifetime warranty and a lifetime service agreement for us slow folk?
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Whats The best setting on the drill for ice drilling? Millwakee Fuel m18 6 inch auger Lazer Ice eater Conversion kit. Thanks
low
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what is the difference between a lifetime warranty and a lifetime service agreement for us slow folk?
This Lifetime Service Agreement is not a warranty; it does not alter or limit the 3-Year Limited Service Warranty provided with your product, and it is not intended to create any implied warranties or rights of any kind including any warranties of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Any such implied warranties are expressly disclaimed. To the extent they cannot be disclaimed they are hereby limited to three years from the date of purchase.
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oh okay that explains it :woot: :roflmao: :roflmao:
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oh okay that explains it :woot: :roflmao: :roflmao:
calling my fricking lawyer on this one ROFLMFAO
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You guys are absolutely right. The warranty and lifetime service agreement on the Ridgid drill is FREE of charge. I've edited my post.
I still maintain that what we're doing with these drills violates the warranty terms anyway.
If you ever need repair/parts/replacement, good luck! I hope it works out.
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I still maintain that what we're doing with these drills violates the warranty terms anyway.
If you ever need repair/parts/replacement, good luck! I hope it works out.
They dont specify what it can and cant be used for. They are being used to drill holes..
As for repairs etc, if you bring it to a home depot with a rigid service center, they have the tools and parts to fix it in store..
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Yup.
Like I said, that video is 2 years old, and the drill was at least 3years old. The tech in the drill in that video is very likely not the same as whats being used in the new drills u get today.
Its like basing your opinion on a 2015 car according to the reviews of the 2012 model..
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Not worried about the drill, looks good. Batteries, :-\ . After talking with a repair center in Utah and Montana, the batteries are the weak link. I live 90 miles from the nearest shop and do not want to take the risk right now. BTW, both places said Bosch was the best by a long shot. # 2 Milwaukee, #3 was a toss up between Dewalt and Ridgid. They both said the Ridgid warranty was good as long as products were registered. They even had batteries in stock. I am not dissin' the drill. I will most likely own one soon as I am a tool freak.
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I think we did a good job of hijacking this thread! :thumbsup:
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I wanted to give an update after fishing on Saginaw Bay today. I used my clam/rigdid auger today with a 8" mora ice auger with new blades. The ice was about 22" thick. I was able to drill 12 holes on one 3 ah battery. The drill would shut down about 3/4 through, I would let it sit for a few seconds and finish drilling the hole. I am going to buy the milwaukee fuel 18 volt hammer drill with 2 4ah batteries. This is a brushless drill and the rigdid is brushed. The milwaukee has over 700 lbs of torque, where the rigdid has just over 600lbs of torque. The price difference is about $100, rigdid $199 and the milwaukee $299. I am hoping this milwaukee will be the final drill I try with this set up. I am thinking I should be able to get around 20 8"holes with the milwaukee per battery. If this works I will never own a gas auger again. This unit is under half the weight of gas and cuts twice as fast as gas and is silent. This could be a deadly hole hopping. It is also much easier to carry on the quad or pulling in a shanty. Most years we are lucky to get 12" of ice on the bay, so under normal conditions this unit would work out even better. I will post my test results with the milwaukee next weekend after trying it out on the bay again.
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I wanted to give an update after fishing on Saginaw Bay today. I used my clam/rigdid auger today with a 8" mora ice auger with new blades. The ice was about 22" thick. I was able to drill 12 holes on one 3 ah battery. The drill would shut down about 3/4 through, I would let it sit for a few seconds and finish drilling the hole. I am going to buy the milwaukee fuel 18 volt hammer drill with 2 4ah batteries. This is a brushless drill and the rigdid is brushed. The milwaukee has over 700 lbs of torque, where the rigdid has just over 600lbs of torque. The price difference is about $100, rigdid $199 and the milwaukee $299. I am hoping this milwaukee will be the final drill I try with this set up. I am thinking I should be able to get around 20 8"holes with the milwaukee per battery. If this works I will never own a gas auger again. This unit is under half the weight of gas and cuts twice as fast as gas and is silent. This could be a deadly hole hopping. It is also much easier to carry on the quad or pulling in a shanty. Most years we are lucky to get 12" of ice on the bay, so under normal conditions this unit would work out even better. I will post my test results with the milwaukee next weekend after trying it out on the bay again.
Good report Pointerguy... Thanks
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Need a little help here. Have been reading all the posts refering to the Clam Cordless drill adaptor and cordless drills to use. Wondering if I should keep my 6" Nils as a hand auger, purchase the clam conversion kit & a new cordless drill or just purchase a new gas auger?
Does the Clam cordless adaptor fit on a 6" Nils? Thinking of purchasing a 20v lith Ion 1/2" Milw hammer drill w/ (2) 4 Amp batteries to make this work. I was told the Clam doesn't fit the Nils but the person that told me wasn't sure? My biggest problem is, we have 24-26" of ice. Obviously we don't have this kind of ice every year, but this year is the exception.
All of the better battery drills have a 1/2-20 thread output (remove the chuck according to the instructions and you will have the 1/2-20 thread). The nils power head has a 1/2-20 thread output. The Nils adapter 1/2-20 female to all Nils augers is a readily available adapter. I'm away for a few days, when I get home I'll post the P/N with a photo. Most good Nils dealers should have this adapter available.
Go to your local HD and buy/try the drill of choice. If it meets your expectations your good.
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Well I have nothing but great things I say about the Milwaukee fuel 18v hammer drill. My last outing on Saginaw bay I has the rigdid 18v hammer drill and was not able to drill a 8" hole through 22" of ice with out the drill shutting down a few times. As I type this I am sitting about 12 miles out on Saginaw bay. I have drilled six 8" holes through 24" of ice so far and have 2 of the 4 bars left on the battery. The Milwaukee drill never paused or slowed down as I drilled the holes. I drilled one after the other, 3 holes each move side by side. I should be able to get twelve 8" holes on each battery for a total of twenty four 8" holes and a total of over 400" on two batteries. To say I am happy would be an understatement. I made a video of me drilling one hole and will try to post it.
Here is a short video of the clam/milwaukee fuel 8" cordless drill auger in action today. Please disregard the date I stated, I got that mixed up..... lol
&feature=youtu.be
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Nice video Pointerguy I have the same set up in a 7" mora with a 15" extension. I managed 44 7" holes in 16" of ice this week(704 total inches!!!) and I cant say enough good about the Milwaukee fuel 18v. I have been thinking of trying a lazer or nils auger head to see if even more inches are possible. I'm curious if anyone else has tried those augers with the Milwaukee fuel 18v yet???
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Well I have nothing but great things I say about the Milwaukee fuel 18v hammer drill. My last outing on Saginaw bay I has the rigdid 18v hammer drill and was not able to drill a 8" hole through 22" of ice with out the drill shutting down a few times. As I type this I am sitting about 12 miles out on Saginaw bay. I have drilled six 8" holes through 24" of ice so far and have 2 of the 4 bars left on the battery. The Milwaukee drill never paused or slowed down as I drilled the holes. I drilled one after the other, 3 holes each move side by side. I should be able to get twelve 8" holes on each battery for a total of twenty four 8" holes and a total of over 400" on two batteries. To say I am happy would be an understatement. I made a video of me drilling one hole and will try to post it.
Here is a short video of the clam/milwaukee fuel 8" cordless drill auger in action today. Please disregard the date I stated, I got that mixed up..... lol
&feature=youtu.be
POINTERGUY, Good job with all the testing ;D. Did you need an adapter to go from the Milwaukee to the Clam Drill Plate ?. I located three new Clam drill plates by chance recently, sold two and more than doubled my cost. ;D, putting the profit toward a Milwaukee. Off to fish Lake Erie today, Eastern Basin., looking for 11"-15" Perch.
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I have A lazer 6 inch With The Fuel 18, Cuts like a dream, No problems. Found my auger!
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I have heard that the lazer augers are more aggressive cutting so I wouldn't think a 7 or 8" would do very well. The mora auger shave the ice and seem to work much better. As for the adapter for the milwaukee drill it just mounts up like any other drill. I do have an extension on the auger and used it in the video. With these results on a normal year with a foot of ice I could get around fifty 8" holes, which is much more that I have ever drilled on one outing while walleye fishing. IMO this setup is much cheaper than a ION auger and much lighter. I don't think I will ever own a gas auger again.
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IMO this setup is much cheaper than a ION auger and much lighter. I don't think I will ever own a gas auger again.
You can also pop the drill off for year round use.
My concern is how long the drill will hold up =/
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One thing to keep in mind, every product has a life cycle and things are being designed today with a much shorter life cycle than in the past. I am willing to be the ion was designed to have, maybe a five year life cycle. Things are built like the old days.
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One thing to keep in mind, every product has a life cycle and things are being designed today with a much shorter life cycle than in the past. I am willing to be the ion was designed to have, maybe a five year life cycle. Things are built like the old days.
I could see that being the case if it got year round use. However is only sees a few months of use. It should last much longer than 5 year. Atleast it better if they want to compete with the gas/propane augers that people get decades out of.
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I watched video on these and it is impressive. I know a couple guys running 5" mora and 6" lazer on this plate and in naifc and other tourneys . They troll the ice and that says a lot to me that they sold gas augers.
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I got a good laugh last night on Saginaw bay. There was 9 of us and when we stopped to set up everyone was trying to start their gas augers and I broke out mine and popped five 8" holes trough about two foot if ice before they had one or two finished. One I the guys looks at me in disbelief and asked what I was using..... Lol the Milwaukee has yet to shut sown while drilling a hole....... It's a beast.....
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I got my Clam Auger Adapter Plate in Dec 2013 first put it together with a Makita Drill I already had. Had about 500 inch pounds of torque with a 2 amp hour battery. I used a 4" synthetic auger, Perch setup. With this setup I would have no problem putting a 6" auger on.
Was not too happy with only being able to drill about 6-8 holes. Started doing a little research and learned that you need more Amp hr in your battery pack and more torque will help. So I went to Home Depot and compared the specs on the various drills. I found most good home drills had about 480 - 520 inch pounds of torque and most came with a 2 amp hr battery.
I found the Milwaukee 18v Fuel series drill to have 720 inch pounds of torque and came with 2 - 18v 4amp hr batteries cost $299. That was 50% more torque and a brushless motor and some smart tech stuff between the battery and the drill.
The results where unbelievable the first day i got about 60 plus holes chasing perch about 12-14 inches of ice, didn't even dip into the second battery. again I attribute this to a quality drill and synthetic auger 4". The battery has steady power thru out the discharge and no memory on the lithium battery. I drilled over 40 plus holes thu out the day and at the end I wanted to see what it would do and drilled another 17 holes consecutive before the battery died.
The down side to this is cost. I have about $500 into this but it is specific to my needs and the drill has dual purpose, I do suggest if anyone goes this route they will be very happy with the setup and people will want to borrow your auger. I would get the extension that CLAM sells for this product because if you put just your auger bit on it you will be starting off drilling your hole bent over. They were not available when I bought mine and I made my own extension out of a broken had auger I had.
Another thing....DO NOT GET THE BATTERY WET it will short out the electronics in the Battery. This happened to me brought it back to Home Depot and they took care of me.
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Well I have nothing but great things I say about the Milwaukee fuel 18v hammer drill. My last outing on Saginaw bay I has the rigdid 18v hammer drill and was not able to drill a 8" hole through 22" of ice with out the drill shutting down a few times. As I type this I am sitting about 12 miles out on Saginaw bay. I have drilled six 8" holes through 24" of ice so far and have 2 of the 4 bars left on the battery. The Milwaukee drill never paused or slowed down as I drilled the holes. I drilled one after the other, 3 holes each move side by side. I should be able to get twelve 8" holes on each battery for a total of twenty four 8" holes and a total of over 400" on two batteries. To say I am happy would be an understatement. I made a video of me drilling one hole and will try to post it.
Here is a short video of the clam/milwaukee fuel 8" cordless drill auger in action today. Please disregard the date I stated, I got that mixed up..... lol
&feature=youtu.be
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I agree with pointer using the Milwaukee 18v fuel drill, I purchased the clam adapter and 7"auger combo, and was very impressed with it's performance. I just came off the ice today, drilled 25 holes through 32" of ice, and on one battery and it was still strong. I posted before about using a dewalt 20v drill and the did ok the first time out on thinner ice, but never did well with it since. I too recommend the Milwaukee 18v fuel drill. awesome performance!
Thanks for the insight Pointer,
dangle
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18v Fuel drill new through a dealer on Ebay for 229. Refurb for 199.
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I agree with pointer using the Milwaukee 18v fuel drill, I purchased the clam adapter and 7"auger combo, and was very impressed with it's performance. I just came off the ice today, drilled 25 holes through 32" of ice, and on one battery and it was still strong. I posted before about using a dewalt 20v drill and the did ok the first time out on thinner ice, but never did well with it since. I too recommend the Milwaukee 18v fuel drill. awesome performance!
Thanks for the insight Pointer,
dangle
Glad to help out, I will never go back to a gas auger. This setup has worked great in these extreme ice conditions this year and will be even better in a normal season.
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anyone know where to get a clam plate?
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anyone know where to get a clam plate?
Sent you a PM as to where you can get one.
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Does the drill have to be brushless, for a longer drill life? In the reading I've done it seems that the batteries that have the most power drill the best!
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Does the drill have to be brushless, for a longer drill life? In the reading I've done it seems that the batteries that have the most power drill the best!
brushless and 4.0 AH batteries are best ( Milwaukee 18V fuel cell)
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is it the Milwaukee drill or hammer drill, I want to make shure I get the rite one the first time, anyone have a part #
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Home depot has em 299. Milwaukee 18v 1/2 brushless drill comes with 2 -4amp hr batteries and the charger.
;D
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Drill-Driver-Compact-Battery-Kit-2603-22CT/203221910 Is this it?
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No, that one has compact batteries. To get the bigger batteries you want 2603-22 not 22ct
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You can use either drill/ driver or the hammer drill. If you get the hammer drill just don't have it on the hammer drill setting when ur drilling ice. Both Milwaukee M18 Fuel models have 750 inch lbs of torque. Great warranty & customer service Dept.
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No, that one has compact batteries. To get the bigger batteries you want 2603-22 not 22ct
I believe the correct one is http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-XC-Battery-Kit-2604-22/203205419
It has the extended high capacity (XC) 4.0AH Batteries cost $299 I looked at them at home Depot and recall seeing 4.0AH Batteries on the outside of the package Specifications.
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I believe the correct one is http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-XC-Battery-Kit-2604-22/203205419
It has the extended high capacity (XC) 4.0AH Batteries cost $299 I looked at them at home Depot and recall seeing 4.0AH Batteries on the outside of the package Specifications.
Says it comes with 3.0 ah batteries , might have to upgrade!
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Get the hammer drill. The difference is the transmission of the drill. It's heavy duty and will last longer. Set it to drill mode #1. I have mine on a clam plate with a 6" mora. It cuts better than the 6" lazer because it's a shaver blade. The replacement blades are cheaper also. It has 750 lbs. of torque and turns at 550 rpm. I have a Nils power auger that I have not used all winter and I'm a hole hopper. Best setup for someone that walks out. Love my Nils but the no gas and cutting this good has got me thinking I might not need the Nils much longer. So far I have gotten 54 holes on 1 battery with the Milwaukee 18, 4.0 amp. Didn't measure the ice but I'm in Minnesota so you know it's way over 24".
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Well I experienced for the first time the milwaukee fuel 18v hammer drill shutting down while drilling holes last night on Saginaw Bay with an 8" auger. I drilled 3 holes through 24"plus of ice with no issues. I went on to drill 4 more and the drill was shutting down while drilling. Had to be heating up and shutting down to cool. I know the ice thickness with the 8" auger is a big task for any drill. Once I let it cool down a few I drilled 2 more holes with no issues. In a normal year we might have 12-14" of ice, so I am confident this setup is the way to go. It is a lot to ask of a cordless drill with a 8" auger and over 2ft of ice..... Had I been using a 6" auger this wouldn't have happened, I just need a 8" holes to pull those walleye through.....lol
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I think with the 8 inch drill you are at the upper limit for any drill. The Milwaukee Fuel 18 is the best I've seen. To do better you would have to go 36 volt and they are very expensive. I fish mostly panfish so a 6 inch hole is all I need most of the time. I used to have a 7" Lazer. Gave it to a friend, wish I still had it. I going to make a cover for the battery that I can put a heat pac in for next winter out of Refletic, duct tape and Velcro. Haven't had a problem with leaving the battery on so far. I'm thinking you could really increase the run time by keeping the battery warm.just can't say enough good things about this setup. For us walk out guys this is the best setup, no gas, light and easy to use.
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Says it comes with 3.0 ah batteries , might have to upgrade!
just stopped at home depot correct model # is 2604-22, comes with two red lithum XC 4.0 batteries
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Thankx for the info!!
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Also looking for a clam plate if anyone knows where I can get one, let me know.
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E-mailed clam and was told they sold out very quick, and will be none available till next fall. Called Cabelas in Dundee Mich and the guy I talked to told me they only got 2 for the whole store!! That's amazing!!
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I picked one up at the Bass Pro in Portage, Indiana a couple of weeks ago. They had two left after I purchased mine. You might give them a call. It's a long shot they'll still have them, but you never know. I was surprised when I saw them, because no one in southern Michigan had any at that time. Good Luck.
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I wanted to give my end of season final review on my Clam ice auger with the Milwaukee Fuel 18v hammer drill and a 8" mora auger.
I have been using my setup with the milwaukee drill for well over a month now. I am using a 8" mora auger and have been drilling about a dozen holes each trip through 24-28" of ice on Saginaw bay. I have been out probably about 12-14 times with it. The drill does shut down when it heats up, but not nearly as much as the Ridgid drill. I can get 1-2 holes before it does this, however I am using an 8" auger. When I tested the 6" auger, I drilled 54.5 holes in a row with no shut downs. When it does shut down, I just wait a few secs then continue to drill. I can say this, I am more than satisfied with this setup and will not go back to gas unless this fails me over time. I also rarely ever have to use the second battery, since I can get 12-14 8" holes on one battery. It has been a crazy winter, with insane ice thickness, so I feel under normal ice conditions, this setup will be even better than currently.
Good luck to anyone building/using a cordless drill ice auger.
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I wanted to give my end of season final review on my Clam ice auger with the Milwaukee Fuel 18v hammer drill and a 8" mora auger.
I have been using my setup with the milwaukee drill for well over a month now. I am using a 8" mora auger and have been drilling about a dozen holes each trip through 24-28" of ice on Saginaw bay. I have been out probably about 12-14 times with it. The drill does shut down when it heats up, but not nearly as much as the Ridgid drill. I can get 1-2 holes before it does this, however I am using an 8" auger. When I tested the 6" auger, I drilled 54.5 holes in a row with no shut downs. When it does shut down, I just wait a few secs then continue to drill. I can say this, I am more than satisfied with this setup and will not go back to gas unless this fails me over time. I also rarely ever have to use the second battery, since I can get 12-14 8" holes on one battery. It has been a crazy winter, with insane ice thickness, so I feel under normal ice conditions, this setup will be even better than currently.
Good luck to anyone building/using a cordless drill ice auger.
Thanks for all the reviews pointerguy, good job
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I have been using the rigid drill with a 6 in auger. I can drill all day with no shutdowns. I dud 40 holes straight thru 18" of ice trying to get it to shut down, and it wouldn't shut down.
I feel the clam drill plate is not required for these set ups. With the t handle on the drill it's very easy to hold onto and control the drill. The clam plate is just unnecessary weight.
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Yes you can drill without the clam plate quite well but there is more to it than just drilling. The Clam plate gives you more control, the bearing takes the load off your drill, your auger won't fall off and you won't break your wrist. For the money it's worth it to me. Also a lot of fun to drill with. Best $59.00 plate, $14.00 extension I spent all winter.
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I have an 8 inch Mora that I put 7 inch Swedish blades on with an Icemaster adapter and just a ryobi 18v drill with a new high capacity battery. Ive been gettin 8 holes through 18 inches of ice with one battery no problem no shut downs or drill getting hot. I fish mostly tip ups and dont move around alot when I'm out so its really all I need. I'm kinda of amazed at how well it works and cant understand why its not more popular. I'm not saying its better then a gas auger but it sure beats drilling holes by hand like i use to. With a 6 inch auger and a better drill i think i could get alot more holes. I live in new jersey and this is much thicker ice then we usually get. I could see how guys who live in the mid west and get crazy thick ice would want a better system, but my main point is that a drill adapter is an excellent low investment alternative to drilling by hand that alot of people are not aware of or don't think works well. As long as you have good blades and a decent 18v drill and battery it will work.
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Update: I have been using my clam combo drill adapter and & 7" drill and the Milwaukee 18v fuel cell the last few outings, and I am very pleased so far with the results. This last weekend it was -1 degrees, and we got 27 holes with the first battery and 28 with the second battery. As you can see in the pic, we were drilling down and bottoming out at the plate on all the holes. we did not drill consecutively, we were using a camera and drilling three holes every time we moved, plus hole hopping and our tip up holes. The second battery I did used more frequently just to see how far it would go.
(http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q798/1dangle/S6301029_zps2ae46567.jpg) (http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/1dangle/media/S6301029_zps2ae46567.jpg.html)
I am very pleased with the results. Probably will not used my 10" jiffy much any more, [hee, hee], [to heavy to carry].
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Update: I have been using my clam combo drill adapter and & 7" drill and the Milwaukee 18v fuel cell the last few outings, and I am very pleased so far with the results. This last weekend it was -1 degrees, and we got 27 holes with the first battery and 28 with the second battery. As you can see in the pic, we were drilling down and bottoming out at the plate on all the holes. we did not drill consecutively, we were using a camera and drilling three holes every time we moved, plus hole hopping and our tip up holes. The second battery I did used more frequently just to see how far it would go.
(http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q798/1dangle/S6301029_zps2ae46567.jpg) (http://s1359.photobucket.com/user/1dangle/media/S6301029_zps2ae46567.jpg.html)
I am very pleased with the results. Probably will not used my 10" jiffy much any more, [hee, hee], [to heavy to carry].
Looks like you need to buy the extension...... lol
I bought one a few moths ago so save my back.
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Until this year we never needed one ;D
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Has anyone seen any clam-auger plates this year?
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Good man for the early start, Gills-only. ;)2
What a bargain, last year @ $49.95 , well, some outlets but maybe not all.
Looks as though inflation has upped the tariff. :woot: And, they have included a bit/auger.
You best have a seat before checking this out, YIKES !
http://clamoutdoors.com/ice_fishing/auger-combo.html (http://clamoutdoors.com/ice_fishing/auger-combo.html)
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I hope they will sell just the drill plate . Talk about inflation !
Steve
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I checked Clam's website they still offer the drill plate conversion kit without the auger bit section. The price is $59.99 item is currently out of stock.
Steve
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any idea when they,ll have them in stock? i keep checking the site about once a week, but no luck yet. gettin ANTSY to get one. bought a milw. fuel 18 v. drill to do some work around the farm, ,n, such. may as well use it for play.
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Good man for the early start, Gills-only. ;)2
What a bargain, last year @ $49.95 , well, some outlets but maybe not all.
Looks as though inflation has upped the tariff. :woot: And, they have included a bit/auger.
You best have a seat before checking this out, YIKES !
http://clamoutdoors.com/ice_fishing/auger-combo.html (http://clamoutdoors.com/ice_fishing/auger-combo.html)
Just like anything else, find a good product, they run out of stock,(made too few) lets hose the consumer, I can see making a profit but double?!! Are they a sponsor? That's good advertisement!! I'm sure its American made, just MY thoughts!! Might think twice about even considering one now.
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any idea when they,ll have them in stock? i keep checking the site about once a week, but no luck yet. gettin ANTSY to get one. bought a milw. fuel 18 v. drill to do some work around the farm, ,n, such. may as well use it for play.
Checked some sites
Sportsmanguide 10/27/14
Gander Mtn 09/17/14
most other sites are just stating" backordered" or " seasonal item available in October"
I am looking to get one also ...less wear and tear on the drill and me ..my DeWalt/Lazer combo is good but its a learning curve ..that lazer likes to grab the last bit of ice before punching through ..
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Talked to them at Gander Mountain they don't know when they will get them and have no idea on price. They don't update the websites that often!! Also e-mailed Clam and they said early this fall!
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Aug. 3 is early fall. ain,t it?
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That's what I'm thinking!
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You can probably order one from clam now and they will ship it when they come in. That's what I did last year. I ordered it in august and got it in October. Their shipping fees are pretty high. Check Reeds in Walker, they have better shipping. Also I would think about putting the Blue Mora auger on it instead of the Lazer. It cuts much smoother and the replacement blades are cheaper. I have the 6 inch Mora and a 6 inch Lazer and the Mora is a lot smoother than the Lazer and it doesn't hang up at the bottom of the hole. With the Milwaukee Fuel 18 it's as good as my 6 inch Nils gas auger minus 6 lbs. and no gas to fool with.
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THANK YOU, DAN. this is the kind of review i can use. very informative. wire
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Just like anything else, find a good product, they run out of stock,(made too few) lets hose the consumer, I can see making a profit but double?!! Are they a sponsor? That's good advertisement!! I'm sure its American made, just MY thoughts!! Might think twice about even considering one now.
Easy there Chief, you aren't comparing apples to apples. ;)
Clam offers two products:
-Auger conversion plate: $59.99
-Conversion kit combo: $149.99
The conversion kit comes with the conversion plate, a 6" auger, and the handle for the auger if you chose to not use the conversion plate.
The conversion plate is what you are looking for if you already have a hand auger.
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Sorry for any confusion I caused, I was looking at the combo, I only want the plate, my mistake, $49 last year and $59 this year not that bad. Sorry guys for getting everyone jacked up!!
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The plate was on sale for $49 at some places last year, but was $60 MSRP.
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Got my auger plate after waiting most of the summer, Gander Mountain, now the drill !!
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Bass pro still has them at $49.
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Would anyone recommend any changes to the Clam plate or do you like it the way it is? I'm thinking of prototyping one out on the CNC mill.
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will I be getting 1/2" or 3/8" drill? variable speed drill? anyone using a regular drill or is everyone using a hammer drill and using the drill mode?
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Using a 18v 1/2" Milwaukee brushless hammer drill(2604-22). Just getting set up as I think I have a good set up as per reading reviews. Say not to run in hammer mode.
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Using a 18v 1/2" Milwaukee brushless hammer drill(2604-22). Just getting set up as I think I have a good set up as per reading reviews. Say not to run in hammer mode.
You'll love it same one me and a buddy uses and it's a beast!
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Hope someone can help me out here. Can I put my nil hand auger on clam plate I have drill just wondering what more I need to put all together?
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I think there is a thread somewhere(search mode) that says the Nils wont hook up with out custom made adapter, someone correct me if I am wrong!!
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Auger has to use a telescoping handle to work. The nils has a folding handle.
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Thanks for post
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I think there is a thread somewhere(search mode) that says the Nils wont hook up with out custom made adapter, someone correct me if I am wrong!!
Also the Nils hand auger with the red blade is too aggressive for the drill. Run out of power too quick.
Nils makes a unit called a convertible with a black blade made for drill use. It also comes with a handle in case you drill too many holes and run out of juice.
That's what I have and it's awesome.
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You need a 1/2 inch drill for the Clam Plate. The hammer drill has heavy duty gearing and should hold up better. Brushless drills won't heat up and shut down as much a the brush drills. Do not use the hammer mode it will werch your auger. High torque drills 600 or more inch pounds of torque and 400 or more rpm on the low setting will turn your auger better. A 4 or 5 amh Lithium battery is best to drill ore holes. A shaver auger such as a Mora will work better than a Lazer with a chipper being the worst. A 5,6 or 7 inch will give you the most holes. I use the Milwaukee Fuel 18 (2604 ) with 2 4 amh Lithium batteries (725 inch pounds torque at 550 rpm on the low setting on the Clam Plate with either a 6 or7 inch Mora auger. I get 40 to 80 holes per battery depending on ice thickness which auger and temp. One thing to consider is these are not ment to replace a gas auger. I have used mine to drill 36 inches of ice but I wouldn't recommend it on a regular basis. For 24 inches or less I love it. Not planning on selling my Nils power auger any time soon.
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Yes I have Milwautee Fuel 18 hammer drill. so what you are saying I need ext with threads on one end that go in drill and a short shaft that go in auger
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so i'm thinking that a chipper style might be better that's what a k drill is and it was specifically designed for a cordless and that's what's on my eskimo z51 8" auger i just don't have any experience with the k drill but website it looks like it goes threw like nothing still on the fence with what auger to use . used a lazer last year i agree it takes a lotta drill to use it but man it is fast gotta try my mora this year but mine has the threaded handle not like a lazer yeah i got a milwaukee also
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The shaver blades are made for this setup. The Lazer and Nils are to aggressive and bite to deep. I can cut faster with my 7 inch Mora than I can with a 6 inch Lazer and it dosent hang up when you break through. Another ice thing is the replacement blades are cheaper.
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Would anyone recommend any changes to the Clam plate or do you like it the way it is? I'm thinking of prototyping one out on the CNC mill.
I figured you could whip one up in your shop.
Last year there was a guy on here that had milled one out.
I have made 2 of them using plywood.
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The shaver blades are made for this setup. The Lazer and Nils are to aggressive and bite to deep. I can cut faster with my 7 inch Mora than I can with a 6 inch Lazer and it dosent hang up when you break through. Another ice thing is the replacement blades are cheaper.
Huh......wonder why clam has the lazer style blades on the augers that come with the plate. I have a 7in shaver worked well gonna try a 7in lazer.
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so i picked up a k drill ( for a very good price from a member) today got to order an adapter for the clam plate to make it work i can't wait for ice it's a 6" but on their website if you need bigger it has a pilot point i'll drill one beside it if i'm jiggin for walleye i'm so stoked yeeeoowww ;D ;D ;D ;D
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so i picked up a k drill ( for a very good price from a member) today got to order an adapter for the clam plate to make it work i can't wait for ice it's a 6" but on their website if you need bigger it has a pilot point i'll drill one beside it if i'm jiggin for walleye i'm so stoked yeeeoowww ;D ;D ;D ;D
I thought about a k drill........looked nice but kinda expensive. Just like a nils........
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Huh......wonder why clam has the lazer style blades on the augers that come with the plate. I have a 7in shaver worked well gonna try a 7in lazer.
Thought the same thing , got the clam auger and they look like lazer blades!!
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Yeah new price was a little high for me plus already a mora 7/8" and lazer 6" but i got it for 80 bucks from damn yankee so i'll have a dedicated auger for the clamplate i can't wait to try it
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First time poster here.
Although I have not used my setup yet (18v Porter Cable on Lazer 6") I thought I would create a cover to keep the battery warm. I plan on throwing a hand warmer in the bottom of the insulated cover. Just need to do a little testing to see if there is any performance improvements.
Images:
http://imgur.com/aWbpNrf (http://imgur.com/aWbpNrf)
http://imgur.com/t4cYFxt (http://imgur.com/t4cYFxt)
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First time poster here.
Although I have not used my setup yet (18v Porter Cable on Lazer 6") I thought I would create a cover to keep the battery warm. I plan on throwing a hand warmer in the bottom of the insulated cover. Just need to do a little testing to see if there is any performance improvements.
Images:
http://imgur.com/aWbpNrf (http://imgur.com/aWbpNrf)
http://imgur.com/t4cYFxt (http://imgur.com/t4cYFxt)
Welcome to the Shanty buttontate. Will you be using lithium ion batteries???
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Welcome to the Shanty buttontate. Will you be using lithium ion batteries???
Thank you, glad to be here. I will be using NiCD batteries.
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You will absolutely want to keep those nicads warm. At some point you will probably want to upgrade to lithium ion batteries and a drill capable of 400+ inlbs of torque. I highly recommend the clam auger plate when you upgrade the drill. The clam plate will protect your drill and should extend the life of your drill as well. I went electric last year with the Milwaukee fuel and clam plate on a mora with 7" blades..... absolutely love it. If you have any questions feel free to pm me. ... Again welcome aboard!!!
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I highly recommend the clam auger plate when you upgrade the drill.
I'm sorry I did not mention before but I do have the Clam Drill Plate and I do have a Milwaukee m18 Fuel drill however I do use the drill often and do not want the hassle of swapping the chuck every time I want to use it. I purchased the Milwaukee because the price of the Porter Cable batteries were almost as much as a new drill. So basically I just want to prolong the life of the Porter Cable batteries and keep my Milwaukee free to use.
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I would use the Milwaukee fuel on the auger and keep the porter cable for the drill projects this winter... you can always throw the chuck back on in the spring to use the Milwaukee fuel for the remaining 9 months. You will be much happier on the ice... My 2c worth...
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I would use the Milwaukee fuel on the auger and keep the porter cable for the drill projects this winter... you can always throw the chuck back on in the spring to use the Milwaukee fuel for the remaining 9 months. You will be much happier on the ice... My 2c worth...
x2
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I'm sorry I did not mention before but I do have the Clam Drill Plate and I do have a Milwaukee m18 Fuel drill however I do use the drill often and do not want the hassle of swapping the chuck every time I want to use it. I purchased the Milwaukee because the price of the Porter Cable batteries were almost as much as a new drill. So basically I just want to prolong the life of the Porter Cable batteries and keep my Milwaukee free to use.
if you already have a Milwaukee fuel and the batteries and charger for it why not just buy another Milwaukee Fuel as just the bare tool without the batteries and charger. I run Dewalts and that is what I did when I upgraded to the brushless drill this year. one thing to remember thou is if you do ever plan to put the chuck back on you will want to put anti seize on the adapter before you put it on the drill. actually you should do this even if you don't plan to switch back and forth as it will help with removing the adapter should something happen to the drill and you would end up having to replace it.
now for a updated review I have now had mine out two times and have driled only like ten holes during those two times out but I have noticed the brushless full size drill is better then the cheap brushed compact drill I had on the plate last year. from now one if I set up anymore of these I will only be using the Dewalt 995 Brushless drill or the Milwaukee F18 fuels.
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I read somewhere that the brushless fuel drills don't like moisture. Has anyone had an issue on damp days? Do you cover the drill if its wet?
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I read somewhere that the brushless fuel drills don't like moisture. Has anyone had an issue on damp days? Do you cover the drill if its wet?
yeah i was kinda wondering if i should come up with a cinch sack to put overbthe drill when i'm traveling in and out
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I wanted to give my end of season final review on my Clam ice auger with the Milwaukee Fuel 18v hammer drill and a 8" Mora auger.
I have been using my setup with the Milwaukee drill for well over a month now. I am using a 8" Mora auger and have been drilling about a dozen holes each trip through 24-28" of ice on Saginaw bay. I have been out probably about 12-14 times with it. The drill does shut down when it heats up, but not nearly as much as the Rigid drill. I can get 1-2 holes before it does this, however I am using an 8" auger. When I tested the 6" auger, I drilled 54.5 holes in a row with no shut downs. When it does shut down, I just wait a few secs then continue to drill. I can say this, I am more than satisfied with this setup and will not go back to gas unless this fails me over time. I also rarely ever have to use the second battery, since I can get 12-14 8" holes on one battery. It has been a crazy winter, with insane ice thickness, so I feel under normal ice conditions, this setup will be even better than currently.
Good luck to anyone building/using a cordless drill ice auger.
HI Pointerguy, I'm getting ready for the coming ice season and trying decide which way to go. Looks like you settled in with the clam drill plate, you stated clam drill auger but I'm thinking you meant drill plate ? Milwaukee hammer which I now have and your using a strikemaster Mora 8" correct? I have an old Mora 7" but don't think it will work, handle and auger thread together, maybe you have a suggestion for that problem. Last year I used the rigid hammer with the 6" K drill 30" of ice, worked well but I don't like fishing in less then a 7" hole.
1- do you think the 7" or 8" lazer would be to aggressive.
2 - I thought one of your posting I read said your were going with a 7" Mora
3- Did you get an extention for your setup ? if so which one.
Thanks for any info you can provide.
CHI
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1- do you think the 7" or 8" lazer would be to aggressive.
7in lazer....no. 8in lazer....not sure prya be ok.
2 - I thought one of your posting I read said your were going with a 7" Mora
I have been using a 7inch shaver, then converted it to a 7in lazer. works well No problems.
3- Did you get an extention for your setup ? if so which one.
Yes. clam adjustable extention. It's $15 why get anything els?
Thanks for any info you can provide.
no problem. sorry i wasnt pointer guy.
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Used a 7" laser with a 20volt dewalt all last season and never had an issue. Tried an 8" and smoked a drill on the second hole in 20"of ice. Tried a 6" and it worked great but the holes were just to small for my liking.
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Anyone tried the new Makita hammer drill with 1090 inlbs?
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one thing to remember thou is if you do ever plan to put the chuck back on you will want to put anti seize on the adapter before you put it on the drill. actually you should do this even if you don't plan to switch back and forth as it will help with removing the adapter should something happen to the drill and you would end up having to replace it.
Exactly, I hand this happen this spring when i tried to remove the adapter
What I found was the adapter end locks tight against the drill over time while drilling holes and causing it to be tough to remove so i ended up putting a thin plastic washer between the adapter and drill .
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Anyone tried the new Makita hammer drill with 1090 inlbs?
Afraid to ask the price on the Makita!!
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Exactly, I hand this happen this spring when i tried to remove the adapter
What I found was the adapter end locks tight against the drill over time while drilling holes and causing it to be tough to remove so i ended up putting a thin plastic washer between the adapter and drill .
Seems like this would hinder the ability of the drill to turn the adapter.
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Not sure why you think this would
All this is a washer placed over the threaded drill shaft and then the adapter is threaded down tight, then you install the small torx headed screw
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Anyone tried the new Makita hammer drill with 1090 inlbs?
Looks sweet! I might just pull the trigger on one and find out.
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Boing! New sheriff in town...
http://youtu.be/Ek0LiNVWjS8 (http://youtu.be/Ek0LiNVWjS8)
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I looked at getting a clam plate. I already have a good milwaukee drill.
But I went with this
http://m.ebay.com/itm/231409101050?_mwBanner=1
I though it was cheaper in the long run. No buying batterys and wearing out my drill.
And it turns a 8inch auger like nobody's business
I made a adaptor out of pipe and a machined insert that connects to a hand auger.
For the price I think it's the best deal out there.
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Not sure why you think this would
All this is a washer placed over the threaded drill shaft and then the adapter is threaded down tight, then you install the small torx headed screw
I would think if you were having this problem the only way to fix it would be to grind off some of the end of the adapter so it didn't engage so far. Sounds like a manufacturing defect.
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Anyone tried the new Makita hammer drill with 1090 inlbs?
http://www.cpoindustrialpowertools.com/makita-xph07m-18v-lxt-4-0-ah-cordless-lithium-ion-brushless-1-2-in--hammer-driver-drill-kit/mktnxph07m,default,pd.html
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Just bought the Makita on Amazon! $257 shipped.
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Just bought the Makita on Amazon! $257 shipped.
What's the part number you got? I don't see any of the ones that have 1090 inlbs at that price range. Sure you didn't get the 750 inlbs hammer drill or 450 inlbs drill?
You want either XPH07Z (hammer drill) or XFD07 (regular drill) FYI if it has a M after the part number that means the kit has 4Ah batteries.
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What's the part number you got? I don't see any of the ones that have 1090 inlbs at that price range. Sure you didn't get the 750 inlbs hammer drill or 450 inlbs drill?
You want either XPH07Z (hammer drill) or XFD07 (regular drill) FYI if it has a M after the part number that means the kit has 4Ah batteries.
XPH07M This would be the model # for the Kit- Make sure your get the 4.0AH Batteries. http://www.cpoindustrialpowertools.com/makita-xph07m-18v-lxt-4-0-ah-cordless-lithium-ion-brushless-1-2-in--hammer-driver-drill-kit/mktnxph07m,default,pd.html
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XFD07MLXT
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Last year I used a 18v xrp dewalt with the 2.6 ah ni-cad batteries, with and 8" mora, I could drill about 7 holes through 20" of ice on a new bat with a fresh charge. It worked ok, but it was hard on the drill, and I burned up multiple switches. Lucky me, being a contractor I have parts drills laying around to scavenge from. I tried a 20v max compact dewalt, the 2 speed drill spun way to fast and drilled 1 hole and I was done trying that! Every hole I drilled last year I thought "man that thing spins fast" at 450 rpm in speed 1 on an xrp, is just too fast. Yesterday I decided to play around with the idea of a gear reduction mount for a cordless drill. Theory being if I could make the auger spin slower at the head and stay at 450rpm wide open power on the drill, it would have more torque and not struggle with the 8" head. Then it hit me, thinking of a gears on a mountain bike, so I figured thats what I would do. So I took a cut off wheel to an old junk bike, cutting out where the crank goes through the frame and also cut the rear hub from the wheel of a 20" bike. That gave me two hubs with races and bearings. Took the front gears from a adult 1 speed bike (48 teeth) and the sprocket from a kids 20"bike (18) teeth, which left me a 2.5 to 1 gear ratio. which at 450 at the drill leaves me 180 rpm at the head. Which is a much safer speed anyway. So I took various pieces of these 2 junk bikes and made a 2.5/1 gear reduction auger for a cordless drill, it is lightweight, compact, comfortable to hold, oh I almost forgot...... the drill comes right off with a velcro strap and loosening the chuck and comes to work with me! This thing is freakin cool!!! I will post a few picks after I give it a paint job. This is what cordless drills need to drill 8" holes without burning up. Not more power, just spin slower!
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That's a really good idea. I'm surprised none of the "big boys" (i.e., clam) haven't built some sort of reduction gearing into their product.
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I just picked up a Hitachi drill for this plate. Lifetime replacement warranty on the drill. 2 - 3AH batteries. This is a brushless, hammer drill with 654 lbs of torque. The part I really liked is that the Hitachi has a high/low switch on the top but it also has a button that provides you 4 speed settings for both the high and low ranges. So, you end up with 8 total speed settings. The torque is the same on all settings, it is just the RPMs that change. You can really slow the drill down, even on the low setting. Looks like the ticket for this set up.
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One other question; does anyone have the Clam auger extension for this unit? I ordered one but started thinking about assembly. How do you get the screw back into the end of the chuck with this extension on? I'm talking the screw that goes into the post that the drill chuck screws onto? Does the extension come in two pieces or is there some other way you get that screw back in? Or, do you put the screw in before you screw the extension on?
Thanks!
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One other question; does anyone have the Clam auger extension for this unit? I ordered one but started thinking about assembly. How do you get the screw back into the end of the chuck with this extension on? I'm talking the screw that goes into the post that the drill chuck screws onto? Does the extension come in two pieces or is there some other way you get that screw back in? Or, do you put the screw in before you screw the extension on?
Thanks!
No problem. The screw for the chuck goes in first, then you attach the extension. The extension attaches just like the lower half of your auger. You can use the big wing nut type thing or the socket head bolts (which I like since I don't plan on disassembling for travel).
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That's a really good idea. I'm surprised none of the "big boys" (i.e., clam) haven't built some sort of reduction gearing into their product.
I was unable to find any info on building it or seen anything quite like it. Which brings to me the questions why? It only makes sense, slow speed = more torque......Having the correct gear ratio is really important to maintain drills life. And it is effortless for the drill to spin it with the bearings, I built mine to fill a hole that the consumer market doesn't fill. That is how I design most of my gear, I think it is important for products to be field tested by the average consumer, not pro's with unlimited budgets. Maybe if all goes well, I may make a few to sell. The kicker is the drill and auger come right off in a few seconds and the reduction unit only weights a few pounds. 2.5to1 ratio = 2.5 times the power I can't wait to get some ice here in Pa to pop a few.
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This guy has a gear reducing adapter already for sale.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ice-kicker-II-geared-portable-ice-fishing-auger-adapter-/151479021963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2344da718b
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This guy has a gear reducing adapter already for sale.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ice-kicker-II-geared-portable-ice-fishing-auger-adapter-/151479021963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2344da718b
Same sort of idea, but that one doesn't hold the drill, or give you much to push on, plus if it bound up it would break your hand, could use a few improvements but looks like a good concept. My design is similar but has throttle control, holds the drill, plus gives you a sturdy platform to push on. Thanks for posting it, good to see others on the right path with gear reduction for cordless drills.
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I read on the package that the ball bearing "absorbs load from the auger so the drill is only used to spin the auger - not to support the auger torque- which greatly extends the life of the drill"
I think this is somewhat misleading. The bearing removes the axial load from the drill but does nothing at all with the torque, except make it easier for the user to control. The drill is seeing the same torque with or without the plate. It does eliminate the possibility of unequal bending moments on the drill shaft which might happen without the plate.
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I would think that a 4 wheeler starter and ring gear could be used as a great gear reduction device. Mounted between two plates would work.
But I have already built 3 knock clam plates.
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I read on the package that the ball bearing "absorbs load from the auger so the drill is only used to spin the auger - not to support the auger torque- which greatly extends the life of the drill"
I think this is somewhat misleading. The bearing removes the axial load from the drill but does nothing at all with the torque, except make it easier for the user to control. The drill is seeing the same torque with or without the plate. It does eliminate the possibility of unequal bending moments on the drill shaft which might happen without the plate.
After running the clam plate and Milwaukee fuel most of last season, I like to think of the clam plate like drilling with a drill press vs drilling with a hand held drill without the plate. It is soooo much easier to control the auger with the plate, which makes for smooth consistent holes and less auger binding and catching...... There is no doubt in my mind that the plate can't do anything but help provide longer drill life. :tipup:
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And for those guys thinking the bearing is crooked. Its a self aligning bearing. Just stick the drill and adapter in it and then line it up however you want. Its made to have play.
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This really has me thinking hard about trying this out next year. The question I have for you guys is that 6 inch hole. I mainly fish for perch, crappies, and some occasional bluegill and walleye, but the majority being perch. Do you guys think that the 6 inch hole would be that big of a factor? I rarely go for big walleyes, and if I do would just use my fishing pals 8 inch. Also, I'm in the neck of the woods where ice gets up to 2 feet of ice, but still, the fact that this unit weighs 13 lbs....we drill a lot of holes and weight is definitely a factor after the 40th hole. Just wondering what everyone's opinion is....
1) Is 6 inch hole big enough for perch, crappie, and occasional 14-18 inch walleye?
2) Would unit be worth it with 3 batteries going through 24" of ice?
Thanks!
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Bigger is better, but almost any perch will come thru a 6" hole!!
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This really has me thinking hard about trying this out next year. The question I have for you guys is that 6 inch hole. I mainly fish for perch, crappies, and some occasional bluegill and walleye, but the majority being perch. Do you guys think that the 6 inch hole would be that big of a factor? I rarely go for big walleyes, and if I do would just use my fishing pals 8 inch. Also, I'm in the neck of the woods where ice gets up to 2 feet of ice, but still, the fact that this unit weighs 13 lbs....we drill a lot of holes and weight is definitely a factor after the 40th hole. Just wondering what everyone's opinion is....
1) Is 6 inch hole big enough for perch, crappie, and occasional 14-18 inch walleye?
2) Would unit be worth it with 3 batteries going through 24" of ice?
Thanks!
6" is big enough IMO, but I perfer at least a 7" auger. I have friends that use 4" & 5" augers, to small for my liking. This year I"ll be using a 7" SM Lazer with the 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill with 4.0 Ah batteries.
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I fished most of last year with a 4.5" hole and caught plenty of big perch, gills, pickerel, bass, and even a handful of lakers up to slightly over 2'. I'm looking forward to being able to use my large(r) 6" auger this year with the clam plate. Clam outdoors says one 4 ah battery is supposed to be good for 700" of ice (almost 30 holes) through 2' of ice with a 6" auger but I've heard of guys doing even better.
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6" is big enough IMO, but I perfer at least a 7" auger. I have friends that use 4" & 5" augers, to small for my liking. This year I"ll be using a 7" SM Lazer with the 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill with 4.0 Ah batteries.
Do you get that many LESS holes with a 7" over a 6"?
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Do you get that many LESS holes with a 7" over a 6"?
Haven't used a 7" auger with a drill motor as of yet but do think # of holes will decrease, but won't make that much difference for one day on the ice. Lots of variables to figure into the equation.
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This really has me thinking hard about trying this out next year. The question I have for you guys is that 6 inch hole. I mainly fish for perch, crappies, and some occasional bluegill and walleye, but the majority being perch. Do you guys think that the 6 inch hole would be that big of a factor? I rarely go for big walleyes, and if I do would just use my fishing pals 8 inch. Also, I'm in the neck of the woods where ice gets up to 2 feet of ice, but still, the fact that this unit weighs 13 lbs....we drill a lot of holes and weight is definitely a factor after the 40th hole. Just wondering what everyone's opinion is....
1) Is 6 inch hole big enough for perch, crappie, and occasional 14-18 inch walleye?
2) Would unit be worth it with 3 batteries going through 24" of ice?
Thanks!
Last season on 1 battery I managed 44 holes through 16" of good ice with a 7" Strike master Mora auger powered by the Milwaukee fuel 18v with XC-4.0 4ah batteries mounted on a Clam drill plate. This is 704" total inches of ice on 1 battery. I'm not telling you what might or could be possible this was a factual test on a morning that was zero degrees. This auger drills effortlessly, no down pressure is needed while drilling, and as I stated in my earlier post It's like running a drill press with the clam plate. I think a 6" hole would serve you well for all the species you have mentioned. If you were to go with a professional grade drill like the Milwaukee Fuel my feeling is that you could easily drill the number of holes you want easily on two of Milwaukee's new XC-5.0 5ah batteries.
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Fleet Farm is running a special on select Milwaukee drills; M18 Fuel hammer drill kit 2604-22 $299 in this week ad's with a free battery coupon ($129 value). Great deal to get a 3rd battery for free.
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Is a hammer drill or just a regular brushless drill better?
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hammer drill, but what settings??
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Low speed, drill mode. Guys are buying the hammer drill for the perceived more rugged gearcase and the ability to have a hammer drill for summer time tasks (assuming you can get the clam off after ice season). You will probably wreck your blades if you use the hammer mode for drilling holes. Note - bare hammer drill is only $130 or so.
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Is a hammer drill or just a regular brushless drill better?
The Milwaukee18V Hammer drill is a brushless drill.
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New Milwaukee 5.0 Ah battery
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/batteries-and-chargers/48-11-1850
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-XC-5-Ah-Extended-Capacity-Battery-48-11-1850/205620421?keyword=48-11-1850&AID=10368321&PID=1796839&SID=66562958&cm_mmc=CJ-_-1796839-_-10368321&cj=true
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Has anyone tried using a 8" Nils with a cordless drill, if so what were your results.
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Personally, I had trouble getting a hole started. I'm not saying it won't work, and I love my 8" Nils, but I had a custom adapter made and rigged it to my Dewalt 18V cordless, all excited to rock and roll, and when I tried to drill a hole the blade wouldn't bite, even when I got the hole started by hand.
I thought that it would be perfect, because there's almost no down-pressure required on a Nils. Maybe others have had success? I've gone the route this year of picking up one of the 6" Nils adaptable drills that comes with it's own adapter as well as an interchangable handle. I'm hoping that the smaller blade and power point will help.
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Personally, I had trouble getting a hole started. I'm not saying it won't work, and I love my 8" Nils, but I had a custom adapter made and rigged it to my Dewalt 18V cordless, all excited to rock and roll, and when I tried to drill a hole the blade wouldn't bite, even when I got the hole started by hand.
I thought that it would be perfect, because there's almost no down-pressure required on a Nils. Maybe others have had success? I've gone the route this year of picking up one of the 6" Nils adaptable drills that comes with it's own adapter as well as an interchangable handle. I'm hoping that the smaller blade and power point will help.
what's the specs. on your 18V Dewalt. The drill plays a big part in the overall setup.
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Is a hammer drill or just a regular brushless drill better?
The 2604-22 is a hammer drill, and its brushless!
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Has anyone tried using a 8" Nils with a cordless drill, if so what were your results.
I am using the orange one with great results. ice is like hot butter with the Milwaukee drill. Just got the makita drill from Amazon yesterday and will be trying it out this weekend. My pro 4 is becoming a paper weight because the cordless setup is so good. I will only use it for tip ups and thick late season ice from now on.
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I am using the orange one with great results. ice is like hot butter with the Milwaukee drill. Just got the makita drill from Amazon yesterday and will be trying it out this weekend. My pro 4 is becoming a paper weight because the cordless setup is so good. I will only use it for tip ups and thick late season ice from now on.
I'm excited to hear how that Makita works out for you!! Over 1,000 in/lbs of torque.... :o :o :o :o Might be the drill to put on it!
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I'll keep you guys posted on my experience with this set up this year. I've been using it here locally and have been very impressed so far. However, running through about 8 inches of ice at this point so anything probably would work well. I will be taking this with me to Lake of the Woods the first weekend of January and then to Winnibigoshish in late February with plenty of local ice trips in between. I would not have purchased this unit without first hand knowledge from a guy who ran it all last year very successfully. We had 3 feet plus of ice here last year (exceptionally cold year) and he had 0 issues. I don't consider him a "run and gun" guy but he had no trouble drilling as many holes as needed last year with a Ridgid drill and 3 ah battery (6 inch Lazer bit). Thanks everyone for all the comments both pro and con. I'll get you some feedback once I have more time with it and under some more "strenuous" conditions.
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I'm excited to hear how that Makita works out for you!! Over 1,000 in/lbs of torque.... :o :o :o :o Might be the drill to put on it!
Put it to some wood today and it did well. Can't say it is better than the Milwaukee yet. One thing that is possibly a better setup is that the handle is much longer than the m18. I am still not sold on the clam drill plate. Not saying it isn't great, but in my line of work, I drill holes in wood that have significantly more torque than a few feet of ice. My corded hole hawg can rip your arms off, yet the m18 can drill just as good. I think a 2 9/16" hole in pine is harder on a drill than an 8" hole in ice. How much does the clam plate weigh? I am into ultralight backpacking and have a habit of counting ounces. ;D
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Put it to some wood today and it did well. Can't say it is better than the Milwaukee yet. One thing that is possibly a better setup is that the handle is much longer than the m18. I am still not sold on the clam drill plate. Not saying it isn't great, but in my line of work, I drill holes in wood that have significantly more torque than a few feet of ice. My corded hole hawg can rip your arms off, yet the m18 can drill just as good. I think a 2 9/16" hole in pine is harder on a drill than an 8" hole in ice. How much does the clam plate weigh? I am into ultralight backpacking and have a habit of counting ounces. ;D
The Clam drill plate weighs 77 ounces (4lbs 13 ounces). You remove the chuck from your drill (9 ounces) so the ready to go Clam plate is 4 pounds 4 ounces.
Clam says the unit is 6 pounds but that is the shipping weight.
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Put it to some wood today and it did well. Can't say it is better than the Milwaukee yet. One thing that is possibly a better setup is that the handle is much longer than the m18. I am still not sold on the clam drill plate. Not saying it isn't great, but in my line of work, I drill holes in wood that have significantly more torque than a few feet of ice. My corded hole hawg can rip your arms off, yet the m18 can drill just as good. I think a 2 9/16" hole in pine is harder on a drill than an 8" hole in ice. How much does the clam plate weigh? I am into ultralight backpacking and have a habit of counting ounces. ;D
Prospector I am very interested in how this works for you as well that Makita sounds like a beast to me. I would highly recommend the clam plate especially for a drill with that much torque. Most of the guys that bash on the clam plate on this site are using the lower torque Ridgid drills. The plate is only a few pounds and can save you from bringing home a bucket of broken drill if the auger catches, instead of a bucket full of keepers..... Just my 2c
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I am curious and would like to see a side by side of Mora vs Lazer on the drill.
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i would too,and maybe up or down a size too.i can see how the plate will help the smaller guys especially on slippery ice but I also try to shave whatever weight I can too.
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I'm excited to hear how that Makita works out for you!! Over 1,000 in/lbs of torque.... :o :o :o :o Might be the drill to put on it!
I also got the makita can't wait to try it out with my 8" nils ;D Home depot has a great deal going on $150 off the XT257M kit I got a radio for 99 and ended up paying 329+tx
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Are you guys having issues with the auger binding at the bottom right before the break through? With the clam 6" auger this is pretty consistent. I've also notice the clam 6" auger has a power point.
I have an 8" strikemaster lazer havent tried it yet. But was looking to get a 7" mora or 7" lazer. I hear the mora's dont bind up at the bottom before break through but the lazer style blade augers do.
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Can anyone recommend a drill in the $100-$150 price range that works fairly well? Only plan to drill 10-20 holes per outing.
Thanks
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Can anyone recommend a drill in the $100-$150 price range that works fairly well? Only plan to drill 10-20 holes per outing.
Thanks
Look on amazon for a used kit..... I bet you can find a milwaukee 18v in that price range....
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LOWES HAS SEVERAL DRILLS FOR LESS THAH 100 BUCKS.
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Has anyone used the new Dewalt 995 with the 4.0 amp/h batteries? Just wondering how it does cutting and also with the batteries?
Thanks!
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Year I used a 4 year old Dewalt 18 volt lithium. I got 150" of ice on a single battery
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Are you guys having issues with the auger binding at the bottom right before the break through? With the clam 6" auger this is pretty consistent. I've also notice the clam 6" auger has a power point.
I have an 8" strikemaster lazer havent tried it yet. But was looking to get a 7" mora or 7" lazer. I hear the mora's dont bind up at the bottom before break through but the lazer style blade augers do.
Have you tried pulling up when drilling the last bit of hole before break through? I started to do that and solved my problem.
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Has anyone used the new Dewalt 995 with the 4.0 amp/h batteries? Just wondering how it does cutting and also with the batteries?
Thanks!
That's the one I use. The drill is awsome!!!! I got a lot of holes and didn't phase the battery on leso than 10 inches of ice.
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The makita drill is a monster! 8" nils we drilled 25-30 (lost track) holes in 6-7" of ice and it still showed a full charge.
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i210/a426fan/th_696E962E-0927-4F44-ACF8-CEF7DB3A1C31.jpg) (http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i210/a426fan/696E962E-0927-4F44-ACF8-CEF7DB3A1C31.mp4)
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I am curious and would like to see a side by side of Mora vs Lazer on the drill.
Been there done that. Both drill well. The lazer is quite a bit faster. However it will catch at the bottom when breaking through unless you lift up on break through. The Mora will break through nice but is a touch slower.
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The makita drill is a monster! 8" nils we drilled 25-30 (lost track) holes in 6-7" of ice and it still showed a full charge.
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i210/a426fan/th_696E962E-0927-4F44-ACF8-CEF7DB3A1C31.jpg) (http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i210/a426fan/696E962E-0927-4F44-ACF8-CEF7DB3A1C31.mp4)
Nice, I hope my 8in blue nils will work that well on my milwaukee fuel and clam plate.
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XN isn't that stacking the deck a laser or Moro will not cut with a Nils😃. Worth every penny.
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Ok guys you have me interested!
A concern of mine has been the lithium batteries tolerance to the cold over the course of a full day.
I remember reading that extreme temperatures really impact the lithium batteries.
Any issues because of that?
I down sized from a hand lazer 10" to a 6" lazer for 90% of my fishing, a third of the work and have yet to see an issue with even larger bass or trout. Northerns and lakers I will stick with the 10".
I like to go light anymore for ease of mobility, run and gun.
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Ok guys you have me interested!
A concern of mine has been the lithium batteries tolerance to the cold over the course of a full day.
I remember reading that extreme temperatures really impact the lithium batteries.
Any issues because of that?
I down sized from a hand lazer 10" to a 6" lazer for 90% of my fishing, a third of the work and have yet to see an issue with even larger bass or trout. Northerns and lakers I will stick with the 10".
I like to go light anymore for ease of mobility, run and gun.
I do not agree with the poor performance of the lithium batteries... In fact I feel that they provide superior performance if you buy a quality brand. I managed 44 holes through 16" of ice last winter with 1 4ah Milwaukee 18v on a morning that was 0 degrees. I do not keep my drill or batteries warm, In fact they both rode in the back of the pickup to the lake that morning. There is ALOT of misinformation out there, the new brushless drill technology is awesome and the new battery technology is fantastic
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shack man , thanks for the info!
I might actually give it a try, I use bosch and have both an impact driver and drill
just have to find a good adapter
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There are several on line, or you could make one out of current drill attachments
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That's the one I use. The drill is awsome!!!! I got a lot of holes and didn't phase the battery on leso than 10 inches of ice.
I'm glad to hear!! Probably will be purchasing that one..
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So I already have a dewalt dc790 drill that puts out about 450 in/lbs of torque. My question for you guys out there do you think this will be a good enough drill? I already have one 4 am/h battery, and have found a sale where I could buy two 5 am/h batteries for around $150. If this drill is capable of getting the job done I would much rather just buy two batteries and save some money! haha also would be using a 6 inch bit, and be drilling quite a few holes..
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I hear that is a good drill.
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So I already have a dewalt dc790 drill that puts out about 450 in/lbs of torque. My question for you guys out there do you think this will be a good enough drill? I already have one 4 am/h battery, and have found a sale where I could buy two 5 am/h batteries for around $150. If this drill is capable of getting the job done I would much rather just buy two batteries and save some money! haha also would be using a 6 inch bit, and be drilling quite a few holes..
the 700 series dewalts are a little light duty for the plate. since you already have the battery and charger you can pick up a bare 900 series dewalt for like $125 to $175 depending on where you get it from. I made the mistake last year of using a dewalt 771 with the plate and came to find that the drill was under powered and it started to burn the brushes. this year I bought a bare dewalt 995 and used the batteries I already have from the 771 (I bought a 2 pack of the 3 AH batteries) and have had alot better results. I haven't even brought out the gas auger yet this year. this has now became my main auger this year so far unless things get really thick later in the season then I might bring out the gas auger.
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the 700 series dewalts are a little light duty for the plate. since you already have the battery and charger you can pick up a bare 900 series dewalt for like $125 to $175 depending on where you get it from. I made the mistake last year of using a dewalt 771 with the plate and came to find that the drill was under powered and it started to burn the brushes. this year I bought a bare dewalt 995 and used the batteries I already have from the 771 (I bought a 2 pack of the 3 AH batteries) and have had alot better results. I haven't even brought out the gas auger yet this year. this has now became my main auger this year so far unless things get really thick later in the season then I might bring out the gas auger.
Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it!! The only problem is I only have (1) 4 am/hr batter and would likely need around 3 for all the holes I drill each outing. The 790 is a brushless drill, however you still would suggest moving up to the 900 series?
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This really has me thinking hard about trying this out next year. The question I have for you guys is that 6 inch hole. I mainly fish for perch, crappies, and some occasional bluegill and walleye, but the majority being perch. Do you guys think that the 6 inch hole would be that big of a factor? I rarely go for big walleyes, and if I do would just use my fishing pals 8 inch. Also, I'm in the neck of the woods where ice gets up to 2 feet of ice, but still, the fact that this unit weighs 13 lbs....we drill a lot of holes and weight is definitely a factor after the 40th hole. Just wondering what everyone's opinion is....
1) Is 6 inch hole big enough for perch, crappie, and occasional 14-18 inch walleye?
2) Would unit be worth it with 3 batteries going through 24" of ice?
Thanks!
I had a 2 pound crappie come out of a 6" hole last year. was tight, it made it.
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Question....when drilling on the slow speed, do you guys pull the trigger all the way to maximize the drill speed or do like 1/2 way?
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Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it!! The only problem is I only have (1) 4 am/hr batter and would likely need around 3 for all the holes I drill each outing. The 790 is a brushless drill, however you still would suggest moving up to the 900 series?
Use what you have. If you burn it up ( I doubt it), you can go on fleabay and just get a drill without batteries cheap.
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Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it!! The only problem is I only have (1) 4 am/hr batter and would likely need around 3 for all the holes I drill each outing. The 790 is a brushless drill, however you still would suggest moving up to the 900 series?
all I can say is try it once and see how it works for you. if it doesn't perform to your liking then at that time look at getting a 900 series drill. the big thing to remember when putting the plate together is to make sure you put some anti seize on the shaft of the drill where the adapter that comes with the plate attaches. I didn't with the 771 and had to order a new replacement adapter from Clam since I couldn't get it off the 771 after it was on it. one other thing is if you do use the 790 then go no bigger then a 6 inch auger.
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im thinking of this one:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-DCD985M2/204210929
I have a need for a decent drill and I don't see many other drills with the speed settings and the 4ah lithium batteries.
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A lot of guys are using this. The lowest speed setting is still pretty fast, so I don't know that the extra speed buys you anything (good for an auger that is).
I have a hitachi drill which is fine for anything I need to do around the house. I felt kind of bad taking the chuck off my new Milwaukee Fuel drill and putting it on a clam plate knowing that may make it a permanent ice auger, but I still have the hitachi for almost anything else (except the hammer function, I may want that). And I am certainly going to be buying a bare fuel circular saw too (Milwaukee makes a brushless 7 1/4" cordless saw now).
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im thinking of this one:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-DCD985M2/204210929
I have a need for a decent drill and I don't see many other drills with the speed settings and the 4ah lithium batteries.
Get the Makita! http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Kit-XPH07M/205492043
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Get the Makita! http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Kit-XPH07M/205492043
X2, 2nd choice the milwaukee fuel.
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Get the Makita! http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Kit-XPH07M/205492043
Keep in mind this drill is brand new and reliability isn't proven yet for our application.
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Keep in mind this drill is brand new and reliability isn't proven yet for our application.
No Clam adaptor required with the Makita. It is the real deal. Turns an 8" Nils at least as well, if not better than the Milwaukee. Longer handle makes the Clam unnecessary at best and a waste on money at worst. On other augers that create more torque, the Clam may have some merit When it comes to safety. I am ready to put a 10" on the Makita just out of curiosity.
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BTW, the chuck on the Makita is not as good as the Milwaukee IMO.
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This is the second year as far as I know this topic has been going strong. Thanks to guys like pointerguy who did a lot of testing, all the new guys going this route and suppiling info we should have a good handle by season end what works well and what doesn't. I'll be using the Milwaukee fuel with a 7" SM Lazer, or my 35 year old 7" Mora. Might buy the 5.0Ah Battery, That's if we get ice here in western NY >:( Took a look at the Dewalt link but can't find the In/Lb rating :-\
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This is the second year as far as I know this topic has been going strong. Thanks to guys like pointerguy who did a lot of testing, all the new guys going this route and suppiling info we should have a good handle by season end what works well and what doesn't. I'll be using the Milwaukee fuel with a 7" SM Lazer, or my 35 year old 7" Mora. Might buy the 5.0Ah Battery, That's if we get ice here in western NY >:( Took a look at the Dewalt link but can't find the In/Lb rating :-\
Dewalt 900 series are at 705 in/lbs of torque, and Dewalt 700 series are around 400 in/lbs of torque!! Hope this helps!!
Also, has anyone paired up a drill with the clam plate and 6" hills? wondering how it works!!
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Yeah the nils will cut like butter. If you can get the adaptor.......ebay has a guy selling the adaptor he makes for $29.
I've got an 8in nils i'm going to try with the milwaukee fuel.
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Yeah the nils will cut like butter. If you can get the adaptor.......ebay has a guy selling the adaptor he makes for $29.
I've got an 8in nils i'm going to try with the milwaukee fuel.
Thanks sir, just got a 6" nils and the clam plate in Cabelas for good price, plus $20 off! I will check into the adapter on ebay.
Thanks sir!
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Keep in mind this drill is brand new and reliability isn't proven yet for our application.
This line of Makita is contractor grade equipment. I have no doubt it will perform for the long haul. I have 200+ inches (8" nils) of ice on my first battery and its still showing full charge. Every time I'm out I want to go over and drill holes for guys using their gas auger.
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just put another 160" on the same battery (makita 4ah battery) 360+ inches and the battery shows 2/3 full... I won't charge it until I drain it ;D
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So I just bought the clam plate, and noticed the bearing is cock-eyed...has anyone had this problem? And do you just need to straighten it out or take it back and get another one? Thanks!!
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So I just bought the clam plate, and noticed the bearing is cock-eyed...has anyone had this problem? And do you just need to straighten it out or take it back and get another one? Thanks!!
the bearing will move and adjust. when you put thdrill on make sure the shaft shoots straight down then tighten the u bolt around the drill handle.
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the bearing will move and adjust. when you put thdrill on make sure the shaft shoots straight down then tighten the u bolt around the drill handle.
Thank you, wondered about that but wasn't for sure!
Thanks guys for all the wonderful input, very helpful.
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Was going 4 the Ridgid, but can't argue w/ the torque of the Makita! SOLD
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Was going 4 the Ridgid, but can't argue w/ the torque of the Makita! SOLD
Heah kinda disapointed. I got my milwaukee.......earlie r.........now the makita sounds like the nuts.
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Heah kinda disapointed. I got my milwaukee.......earlie r.........now the makita sounds like the nuts.
I own both. The Milwaukee can hold its own.
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I own both. The Milwaukee can hold its own.
Good to hear.
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I own both. The Milwaukee can hold its own.
Any noticeable difference in performance between the two?
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Exactly, I hand this happen this spring when i tried to remove the adapter
What I found was the adapter end locks tight against the drill over time while drilling holes and causing it to be tough to remove so i ended up putting a thin plastic washer between the adapter and drill .
Rereading this post I wonder if the washer goes on the end of the 1/2-20 threaded drill shaft (like a spacer) or over the threads like you normally picture a washer being used. Please clarify.
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Which one would you choose ???
Milwaukee with the optional 5.0 Battery 725 in.lbs torque Or the Makita 4.0 Ah Battery 1090 in. lbs torque.
Torque Vs. Ah
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Which one would you choose ???
Milwaukee with the optional 5.0 Battery 725 in.lbs torque Or the Makita 4.0 Ah Battery 1090 in. lbs torque.
Torque Vs. Ah
Torque is what turns the auger, the battery is the gas tank. Can you have to much power? Fyi it looks like Mikita is selling 5ah batteries in Europe so hopefully we will see them soon. P/n BL1850
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Just installed my older brushed Makita LXT BDF451 (560 in.lbs.) to the Clam plate and a 8" Strikemaster lazer auger. Was surprised how well it did. I was only drilling through 8" of ice but managed to drill 15 holes before I got too cold. (-25 windchill). I cant wait until the XPH07 comes in! I ordered it Monday off Amazon and it was $25 off! I paid $104 for the tool (no batteries). I have 3 3.0 AH batteries which I will make do until I get the 5's. So far very impressed!
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Rereading this post I wonder if the washer goes on the end of the 1/2-20 threaded drill shaft (like a spacer) or over the threads like you normally picture a washer being used. Please clarify.
The second part of your question is what i was referring to. " over the threads like you normally picture a washer being used."
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Just got the conversion plate. Hoping my Ryobi 18vlt will get the job done. Way things are looking right now we will probably only see a few inches of ice this season (if any at all) :(
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I wanted to give a review for anyone considering using a cordless drill with a ice auger. While researching this on the web it would appear it can be difficult to hold the drill and not end up with a broken or bruised hand/arm while drilling, do to the torque from the drill. Here is what I have put together.
I recently purchased a Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit (plate only) for $59.99 from Gander Mountain. I paired this with a 6" mora hand auger and a Dewalt 20 volt Lit cordless drill with 1.5 ah batteries and 300 watts of power for $99.99. I also tested with a 8" lazer and mora auger.
This set up with the dewalt drill was was able to drill 17 holes through 6" of ice with the 6" mora auger bit on one battery. When I tried to 8" lazer I barley got one hole drilled with a fresh battery and about killed the drill. While the results were fair, I was not sold on this yet.
On my second attempt to build a cordless drill auger with the Clam Ice Auger Conversion kit I paired it with a 18 volt Rigid lith hammer drill with 3.0 ah batteries and over 600 lbs of torque for $199.99. I tested this on Saginaw Bay over the past few days on 12" of ice and here are the results.
I first tried the 8" mora and was able to drill one hole but the drill was working to do so. I could of drilled a few more but didn't want to kill the drill.. I then remove the 8" auger and put on the 6" mora and a new battery. I was able to drill 39 holes with ease through 12" of ice on one battery. It drills the hole in a matter of seconds, with very little pressure applied. I was very happy with the results and this auger is now with me on every trip. Since I like to use 8" hole or bigger for walleye, I have been drilling two 6" holes side by side while on the bay and it has worked out great and I really see no need for a bigger auger bit. They sell an extension for $14.95 which I will be purchasing since it looks like this will be an epic year for ice conditions.
Here are a few more things I really like about this set up.
The total unit might weigh 12-13lbs
It chews threw the ice with ease
You pull the trigger and start drilling and its silent
Because of the Clam plate it is very easy to handle when drilling
I can drill 78 6" holes through 12 inches of ice on two batteries or a total of 936 inches of ice.
Here is a pic of my new Clam Ice Auger
(http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DSCN2897.JPG)
For anyone looking to use a cordless drill with an auger, I highly recommend this setup. The key is to use a high torque drill on the lowest gear setting and 18 volt 3 ah lith batters or higher.
how do you remove the chuck keyless on Rigid Drill after screw out inside chuck then....... i have struggled with chuck remove and wont get off i followed the intro from clam plate description about drill chuck but failed and called Rigid customer service and said use put allen hex on chuck and hammer on it will get loose turn even right and left no avail .. then give up. :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :cookoo: :cookoo:
Rigid 18 v half inches dia. and 5oo something lbs torque
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Check this video out. Not only does the Red lithium 5.0 battery have 20% more amp-hours, it is claimed to be more WATER RESISTANT. This could be really neat for our application.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVJGzXGu5eo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVJGzXGu5eo)
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Just installed my older brushed Makita LXT BDF451 (560 in.lbs.) to the Clam plate and a 8" Strikemaster lazer auger. Was surprised how well it did. I was only drilling through 8" of ice but managed to drill 15 holes before I got too cold. (-25 windchill). I cant wait until the XPH07 comes in! I ordered it Monday off Amazon and it was $25 off! I paid $104 for the tool (no batteries). I have 3 3.0 AH batteries which I will make do until I get the 5's. So far very impressed!
Your going to love it. My friend has the older brushed LXT hammer drill and the new brushless blows it away.
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I finally killed one (4ah) battery on my new makita hammer drill. I ended up with 400" of ice on one charge. I think the cold had a play in the last day I used it.
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Finally had a chance to try out mine today. Set up blew me away! Never going back to gas augers again!
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I'm on my 1st season with mine. Got a nice 4 stroke Strikemaster that has yet to leave my garage. We are on about 10 inches of ice here so far this year and I have yet to be able to slow this thing down. I have been out with it about 12 times now. The last time I had it out, I drilled about 20 - 6 inch holes and the battery never left a full charge reading. I fish out of a 1 man flip and it fits right into the sled with the rest of my gear. I put it in the sled and throw the cover right over the top of everything. Yesterday when I was out, there was a guy about 50 yards away yanking away on a gas auger trying to get it started. He finally got it going, but it didn't look like much fun. I stopped in the bait shop to get some bait and a guy came in looking for a new spark plug for his auger. I don't miss that either.
Again, these aren't for everyone. If you fish tip ups a lot or like an 8 inch or bigger hole, this probably isn't the set up for you. But for everyone else, I have to say I have been very impressed after 12 outings so far. For me the biggest advantages are: size/portability; will easily fit in the smallest of sleds. Weight; 11 lbs with the drill and battery. Ease; no gas smell, no exhaust, no waiting for the motor to warm up or trying to start it. You pull this out of the sled, remove the blade cover, hit the trigger and you are drilling holes.
I remember looking at these before I tried one myself. I was VERY skeptical. But I have to say after using this for the last month and a half or so, I have been very impressed. As the ice continues to get thicker, I'll be curious to see how it performs, but so far so good this season.
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I was test on my Ridgid 18 v with 2 ah battery on Clam Plate and Eskimo 6 inches and drill on ice 8 inches yesterday Wow sweet cutting faster like butter 32 and half on holes equal one battery :o it worth for Ridgid 18 v is Lifetime replacement better than other. and budget wise.. ;D
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Hello,
I just purchased this drill plate, and I have a Rigid 18v drill as well. But I can not get the chick off of the drill. I have removed the cross threaded screw, and tried an alen wrench and an impact driver on it. Any suggestions since you have the same setup?
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Read several threads here. Lots of people having trouble, eventually get them off. Different things to try.
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=300034.0 (http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=300034.0)
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=298929.0 (http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=298929.0)
More if you look, or even search.
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Hello,
I just purchased this drill plate, and I have a Rigid 18v drill as well. But I can not get the chick off of the drill. I have removed the cross threaded screw, and tried an alen wrench and an impact driver on it. Any suggestions since you have the same setup?
Go the equipment section of this forum and read " clam plate brainstorm". This is the best of both worlds.
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Hello,
I just purchased this drill plate, and I have a Rigid 18v drill as well. But I can not get the chick off of the drill. I have removed the cross threaded screw, and tried an alen wrench and an impact driver on it. Any suggestions since you have the same setup?
[/quote
I had a problem similar yours You take Allen socket put in chuck to tight lock up and Socket handle on it Knock out with heavy hammer
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I assembled the clam plate today with the M18. No issues getting the screw out of the chuck or removing the chuck thanks to the videos posted here.
The only issue was that I wanted to try an old 6" mora hand auger but it is screws on. I assume there is an adapter for that? Then I tried my 7" lazer electric auger. The hole is bigger on the auger than the clam plate so it is not a good fit. I ended up cutting a peice of 3/4" plastic pipe to fill the gap. That worked pretty good and it is a snug fit. The clam shaft goes inside of it and the auger goes on the outside.
I want to use the 7" anyway so it's all good. Hopefully I can try it soon!
(http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz8/bschantz/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0199_zps9f5db4ce.jpg) (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/bschantz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0199_zps9f5db4ce.jpg.html)
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I assembled the clam plate today with the M18. No issues getting the screw out of the chuck or removing the chuck thanks to the videos posted here.
The only issue was that I wanted to try an old 6" mora hand auger but it is screws on. I assume there is an adapter for that? Then I tried my 7" lazer electric auger. The hole is bigger on the auger than the clam plate so it is not a good fit. I ended up cutting a peice of 3/4" plastic pipe to fill the gap. That worked pretty good and it is a snug fit. The clam shaft goes inside of it and the auger goes on the outside.
I want to use the 7" anyway so it's all good. Hopefully I can try it soon!
(http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/zz8/bschantz/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0199_zps9f5db4ce.jpg) (http://s808.photobucket.com/user/bschantz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0199_zps9f5db4ce.jpg.html)
Something doesnt sound right or look right with your setup. Your mora should be able to bolt right up using a wing bolt. Same thing with your lazer bit.
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I had an old Mora that threaded together top and bottom. It pretty much was threaded together permanently. You prolly will need to make something custom. You could cut the top a convenient distance above the thread, put a collar on it, and drill and tap it to attach to the clam adapter. This assumes that the diameter of the auger shaft/handle is correct.
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Yeah I could make something custom for the mora. It would be pretty simple to do. I will see how the 7" works first.
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Something doesnt sound right or look right with your setup. Your mora should be able to bolt right up using a wing bolt. Same thing with your lazer bit.
Every auger bit connects a little differently. The lazer is a power lazer bit and the hole is bigger than a hand lazer. Like buz said, the old mora hand auger screwed on. There is no wing bolt.
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Every auger bit connects a little differently. The lazer is a power lazer bit and the hole is bigger than a hand lazer. Like buz said, the old mora hand auger screwed on. There is no wing bolt.
I can understand the old mora setup but why are you using a powered lazer bit on the clam plate? Power lazer blades is pretty aggressive cut I don't think a hand drill will be able to properly turn it and if even it does turn it, it may burn up your drill's lifespan quickly. Has anyone else attempted to use a powered lazer bit?
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I think the power lazer bit would be questionable on the drill..........
With the older mora, would it be possible to take some threaded pipe and adaptors to fit it onto the clam plate?
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how do you remove the chuck keyless on Rigid Drill after screw out inside chuck then....... i have struggled with chuck remove and wont get off i followed the intro from clam plate description about drill chuck but failed and called Rigid customer service and said use put allen hex on chuck and hammer on it will get loose turn even right and left no avail .. then give up. :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :cookoo: :cookoo:
Rigid 18 v half inches dia. and 5oo something lbs torque
I had a friend do mine. I told him how these guyse have done it. he had a big hex wrench with a good size T-handle. inserted and tightened the chuck. a couple of grunts and groans later, it came loose. course, his arms are 3x bigger than mine, too....oh yeah, turn counter clockwise
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Well I have the new Makita XPH07 drill hammer installed on the clam auger plate with the SM 8" auger. I will try it tonight. I was surprised that it would safety trip the drill turning the auger bit on setting 2. I know I will never use that setting when drilling a hole but I was surprised. Cant wait to try it tonight. Will report back after the test.
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I think the power lazer bit would be questionable on the drill..........
With the older mora, would it be possible to take some threaded pipe and adaptors to fit it onto the clam plate?
I will try it this weekend and see how it works. If it is an issue then I will rig up an adapter for the old mora.
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Got my set up ( 20 v max DeWalt and 6 in Lazer) out yesterday ...little bit of a learning curve ...but worked well overall . Any tips on keeping the blades from skipping ? I did have to tweak the trigger paddle adjustment as it was sticking some upon retuning home .
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Well, the results are in with the Makita XPH07. This thing will eat. 8" hole I was able to get 20 holes going through 12" of ice. This is with a 3ah battery. This will work for me! Definately drills the hole a lot faster than the brushed Makita and doesnt sound like its straining the drill. Cant wait to get the 5ah batteries.
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I can understand the old mora setup but why are you using a powered lazer bit on the clam plate? Power lazer blades is pretty aggressive cut I don't think a hand drill will be able to properly turn it and if even it does turn it, it may burn up your drill's lifespan quickly. Has anyone else attempted to use a powered lazer bit?
It is definitely not as aggressive as a NILS and I believe people are using them with no issue???
The 7" lazer was from my strikemaster electra.
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It is definitely not as aggressive as a NILS and I believe people are using them with no issue???
The 7" lazer was from my strikemaster electra.
Powered lazer drill bits arent engineered to be hand augers. They are heavier, have a more aggressive cut, ive never attempted to turn a power lazer bit by hand but I dont think its gonna be anywhere easy to do or if even possible by hand?
The NILS bit are not an aggressive cut, its first of all a hand auger converted to power with a Tanaka powerhead. So its blades are angled to shave ice as effortless as it can be, thats what makes it unique. If you ever try an 8" hand Lazer vs a 8" Nils you will notice the Nils cuts alot easier by hand turn.
But this is interesting your the first to attempt to use a power drill lazer on the clam plate. Let us know of outcome if it works for ya, if it does then I guess its dandy?
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Just wondering what clutch setting is best recommened for my Milwaukee drill, I know it should be set to drill mode and #1(low) setting. Does the setting on the clutch matter? Mine goes up to 24.
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No, if you are in "drill" mode the numbers don't mean a thing and you get full torque without slipping. Only in the "Drive" mode will the clutch slip and then the lower the number the easier it slips.
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Sounds good! Hoping to get out tomorrow before work for a test drive :tipup:
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Having a very hard time trying to remove the chuck on my brand new Dewalt 1/2 drill DCD980 did a google search and not much help there. Screw inside of chuck removed and large allen wrench installed in chuck, hit with hammer counter clockwise and won't break loose. Please Help, I want to try out my new Clam Plate this Sat.
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Having a very hard time trying to remove the chuck on my brand new Dewalt 1/2 drill DCD980 did a google search and not much help there. Screw inside of chuck removed and large allen wrench installed in chuck, hit with hammer counter clockwise and won't break loose. Please Help, I want to try out my new Clam Plate this Sat.
Clamp the drill to a bench. Then put a pipe on the allen head and turn it. There is a video a page or two back that shows it step by step on an M18.
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Clamp the drill to a bench. Then put a bolt in the chuck. Thenj use an impact in reverse to break it loose and spin it off.
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OK, In the morning, I'm going to it to work chuck it up with a3/8 allen and hit it with a IR 1/2in. impact in reverse rotation, hope this works! Starting o bum out!
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OK, In the morning, I'm going to it to work chuck it up with a3/8 allen and hit it with a IR 1/2in. impact in reverse rotation, hope this works! Starting o bum out!
That didn't work for me, but it was an electric impact wrench. A BIG allen wrench with either a cheater bar or hammer is the way to go. And clamp that drill down.
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I didn't have any issues with the chuck removal on my DeWalt drill ...but its only little over a year old and limited use in that time ...I think more "experienced" drills may require a tad more persuading .
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Use the cheater bar method. Clamp drill down, Position the allen wrench in the chuck at the 12 o'clock position, longer the bar the better, and pull down counter clockwise.
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I tried the 7" lazer bit today and it worked awesome! No binding and the drill did not sound like it was working overly hard. I was only drilling through 5"-6" of ice.
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I tried the 7" lazer bit today and it worked awesome! No binding and the drill did not sound like it was working overly hard. I was only drilling through 5"-6" of ice.
Reeleyz, What drill are you using?
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Reeleyz, What drill are you using?
Milwaukee M18, 2604-22.
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That didn't work for me, but it was an electric impact wrench. A BIG allen wrench with either a cheater bar or hammer is the way to go. And clamp that drill down.
The electric impacts are not as strong as the air impacts!! Air has a lot more power!
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Maybe it is just me, but when I impacted off my chuck on the milwaukee fuel, it took a bit of time just letting the impact impact on the bolt. Then once it broke loose It was good to go. I think it took about a min. of letting the impact impact on it before it broke loose. I did try a large breaker bar before that, and it felt like I was going to snap off or bend the chuck on the drill.
I guess my question is, how long are you guys using/allowing the impact to work on it. I would think after a bit of time it would break the chuck loose.
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Over 20 holes now and still on the first battery and have 2 bars left. Going to try to kill the battery this afternoon.
Argo - the breaker bar should work. I just went slowly with it and it came loose fairly easily. I almost think the Allen head would break before the chuck would. It has to be clamped securely.
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I have the Clam extension on mine too ...that 6" Lazer is way to short...I don't know how I would have drilled without the height . Great add on .
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Just got back from fishing and the Milwaukee performed flawlessly, easily drilled over 30 holes with a 6" lazer with 8-12" of ice. Definitely get an extension if using a mora or lazer auger bit. FYI, the ion extension is compatible with the lazer and mora. At the end of the day I went home with one bar left :tipup:
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Well I just had to put my review in since I have been a hardcore Manual Nils 6" owner for the past 15 years and only went through 3 heads it's now for sale. I purchase the Clam conversion kit with a 6" auger, I was going to put a Dewalt DCD980 on it but I had a very hard time trying to remove the chuck I watched many U-Tube videos and even asked the question on here, I have removed them before from drills and lathes with out any problems, I gave up and bought the Milwaukee Fuel M18 2604-22 Brushless Drill and it came with 2 Red Lithium 4ah Batteries and Charger. Chuck came off very easy I noticed it had the Blue Loc-tight on it. Put the conversion together and tried it out all I can say, Awesome :woot: it cut through 7" of ice like butter did 32 holes with ease then checked the charge status of the battery and still had a 3/4 charge left, I'm very impressed :thumbsup:
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I'm in, ordered the plate in stock from BPS $49.97/free ship order over $50, extension direct from clam in stock $14.99 w-shipping. No tax in Pa. I have a 18v Milwa. compact and a 6" Mora that I hope will handle western Pa. 4-8" ice for now. We just got our first real cold spell and almost have safe ice throughout our region. I hope to get 2 doz. holes or so out of 2/batts. Tight Lines! :)
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We all know by now how well a good drill and the clam plate cuts 0"-15" ice regardless of what auger bit you used.
So now that were mid season how are your drill/clam plate setup stacking up against thick ice?
About 3-4 weeks ago I had little issue cutting 18" ice on Upper Red with the Milwaukee Fuel M18 and the 7" hand Lazer bit.
Yesterday about 2hrs+ North of the twin cities MN I had my first issues drilling 20"+ ice. I had a combination of issues with the 7" lazer binding at the bottom, getting stuck and the drill stopping before a punch through, also binding not being able to pull back up instead being pulled down having to release the trigger to stop it. Then putting in reverse to back out. And yes I made sure to pull up several times to clear ice chips during the drill. Also the crappy China blades that came with my Lazer bit may be part to blame as they didn't seem to want to cut down well without minimal pressure. Also using the clam extension causes wobbles during the drill.
We also were fishing in sub zero temps with little wind, kept my batteries in a cooler bag in the car but purposely did not keep them warm just in attempt to simulate real usage conditions. In 20"+ ice I barely got 20 holes drilled per 4ah battery on the 7" lazer and I carry 3 batteries. I will be doing further drilling in the coming weeks to try to see if this setup is justifiable to sell my powered gas auger. At this point im leaning towards a no.
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Well I just had to put my review in since I have been a hardcore Manual Nils 6" owner for the past 15 years and only went through 3 heads it's now for sale. I purchase the Clam conversion kit with a 6" auger, I was going to put a Dewalt DCD980 on it but I had a very hard time trying to remove the chuck I watched many U-Tube videos and even asked the question on here, I have removed them before from drills and lathes with out any problems, I gave up and bought the Milwaukee Fuel M18 2604-22 Brushless Drill and it came with 2 Red Lithium 4ah Batteries and Charger. Chuck came off very easy I noticed it had the Blue Loc-tight on it. Put the conversion together and tried it out all I can say, Awesome :woot: it cut through 7" of ice like butter did 32 holes with ease then checked the charge status of the battery and still had a 3/4 charge left, I'm very impressed :thumbsup:
I think im doing the same thing buddy. My 99$ craftsman aint gonna make it. Works fine for a while then just wont spin more than a few turns. Shes going back tomorrow and im gonna bite the bullet on the Fuel
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I think im doing the same thing buddy. My 99$ craftsman aint gonna make it. Works fine for a while then just wont spin more than a few turns. Shes going back tomorrow and im gonna bite the bullet on the Fuel
Yea it did put a dent in my wallet, but well worth it. Went to Long with Ted, and I drilled almost two holes to his one and he was using his Strikemaster Lite Gas with new blades ;D We haven't fished together in a long time, we should get all of the old buddies together for a gathering with some vittles. ;D
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Well Tubby, I bought the Fuel today after talking with you. Last one they had, I almost had to get mad at you ;D
For everyone else, I originally went with a Craftsman 19.2, not the hammer-drill model, and not the low end one. Dont get me wrong, its a nice drill but she went back to the store today. Would work like a champ then just cut out when drilling. Drill just fine up in the air, then 3 seconds into the ice, stop. It wasnt over heating either, or the battery....
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Any idea on what the torque output is on the craftsman? The fuel has 725ft lbs I think.
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I think it was 465. They make one with less and one with more...
Yes 725 with the Fuel... plus brushless and better built with the hammer feature.
I was on the fence between this and the Ridgid or Dewalt. They didnt have any of the 4ah ridgid batteries and the Fuel had a 5yr warrante vs 3 on the Dewalt. Probably cant go wrong with either of the 3. My "cheaper" option didnt work but I drill alot of holes and wanted to be able to drill ALOT of holes ;D
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Well Tubby, I bought the Fuel today after talking with you. Last one they had, I almost had to get mad at you ;D
DC have you put it together yet? Let me know when you try it out? :thumbsup:
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My sister in law will prolly drill 10 holes max each trip. She has a little used 6" hand auger and her son got her the clam plate for Xmas. There is about 0% chance of her using a cordless drill the rest of the year. I am thinking pawn shop drill. What would you get to drill a max of 10 holes a trip, 5 trips a year, and 8-14" of ice?
I have read through the thread and it looks like everyone here wants the Binford 9000, I am looking for the Binford Light.
Thanks,
Scott
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Well I just had to put my review in since I have been a hardcore Manual Nils 6" owner for the past 15 years and only went through 3 heads it's now for sale. I purchase the Clam conversion kit with a 6" auger, I was going to put a Dewalt DCD980 on it but I had a very hard time trying to remove the chuck I watched many U-Tube videos and even asked the question on here, I have removed them before from drills and lathes with out any problems, I gave up and bought the Milwaukee Fuel M18 2604-22 Brushless Drill and it came with 2 Red Lithium 4ah Batteries and Charger. Chuck came off very easy I noticed it had the Blue Loc-tight on it. Put the conversion together and tried it out all I can say, Awesome :woot: it cut through 7" of ice like butter did 32 holes with ease then checked the charge status of the battery and still had a 3/4 charge left, I'm very impressed :thumbsup:
According to Milwaukee web site, the chuck is supposed to have the red (strongest) loktite (mine did). The screw has the blue (medium). Maybe your chuck came off easy cause someone put the wrong loktite on it.
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My fuel didn't have a lick of locktite of any sort on the chuck collar ??? I did see some blue stuff on the screw though :tipup:
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My Fuel - the screw had a smidgen of blue on it and she was a bear to get out. The chuck came loose after two wacks on the allen wrence tightened in the chuck. The threads on the inside of the chuck had quite a bit of red....
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According to Milwaukee web site, the chuck is supposed to have the red (strongest) loktite (mine did). The screw has the blue (medium). Maybe your chuck came off easy cause someone put the wrong loktite on it.
buz23, When I saw it was blue (medium strength)on the chuck, I thought I just pass the word along to what I found.
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My clam plate / fuel / 6" mora (Sweden blades) drilled 3 holes for each 7 moves, in 9" good ice. Temp was 8 deg average. 2 bars left after 189" of ice. Thing never grunted, I'm pleased. Just saying.
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buz23, When I saw it was blue (medium strength) I thought I just pass the word along to what I found.
I failed to mention the screw also had blue locktite on it.
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I want to buy clam ice auger conversion kit and use it on my laser strike master 8 inches auger. I need some advice which cordless drill should i used to get efficiency drilling in ice 8 inches thick or sometimes even 18 to 20 inches.I would be gladly thankfull for god advice in this matter.
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I want to buy clam ice auger conversion kit and use it on my laser strike master 8 inches auger. I need some advice which cordless drill should i used to get efficiency drilling in ice 8 inches thick or sometimes even 18 to 20 inches.I would be gladly thankfull for god advice in this matter.
You cant go wrong with the new brushless makita pushing out over 1000 inch lbs of torque. I have the m18 Milwaukee fuel which pushes 725 inch lbs of torque fitted on my 6" lazer. Bigger the auger more torque would be better I'd say.
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Finally got out today with my Milwaukee Fuel/clam plate/ 6" lazer. WOW. 10" of ice, 5 seconds each hole. Had a little trouble with the trigger sticking towards the end. I have read about the thing catching at breakthrough and imagined that the drill just stalled. NO SUCH THING. It will pull you right down to your knees if you don't hold it back. Drilled about 40 holes (estimate, I can't remember any counting anymore) and although I couldn't get the fuel gauge to work on the ice, I had two bars when I got home. It was probably near 0 F when I started.
Took my LX-7. Had kept the battery charged periodically since last spring. Just turned it on and put the transducer in the hole. Didn't have to change a thing since last year. 3' minimum depth to see my jig (open water mode).
Too bad the fish weren't cooperating. Caught a few LMB and dink perch. They were there but would not commit. Lost my favorite tungsten jig on a set though, might have to reconsider the new 3# test.
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I used my Drill Plate yesterday, I am 64 years old And I drilled 8 holes. It was awesome, Best thing I bought. No more tired arms, YES!
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went out today with my Milwaukee fuel drill and my homemade clam plate. First 6 holes were fine. But then when I got half way thru the ice my drill quit. I let off the trigger and then pushed it again and it took off. Next hole the same thing. Not sure what the deal was. It didn't over heat and the battery still had half life left.
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went out today with my Milwaukee fuel drill and my homemade clam plate. First 6 holes were fine. But then when I got half way thru the ice my drill quit. I let off the trigger and then pushed it again and it took off. Next hole the same thing. Not sure what the deal was. It didn't over heat and the battery still had half life left.
What setting did you have it on? Check to make sure the trigger is fully engaging on the drill.
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Will check everything before my next trip out. But acted like a cutoff switch or something like that.
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Just wanted to let you guys know that I put the Milwaukee/clam plate to work today. Estimated 14-18" of hard ice and lost track of how many holes I punched with my 6" lazer bit, it was a lot thats all I know lol. I left the ice with one bar left on the battery indicator with no fish in the bucket I decided to hit up another spot. I was able to drill 2 more holes on the first battery before she quit, with a quick swap of the battery I'm back at it punching holes(12) in search of fish. I fished until dark and a final check on the battery showed 3 bars before I packed it up. Moral of the story is that with 3 4amp batteries I'm confident enough to say that I will probably not use my Nils/tanaka gas auger again :o
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Punching 21"+ ice with my Milwaukee M18 Fuel, clam plate, 7" lazer today again. My batteries are just left in a cooler bag out, no heat. Did go through 3 batteries and eventually ended up using the gas auger.
Averaging about 400"-450" (20 holes +/-) ice per 4ah battery on 7" bit. As battery starts to wear down during use its prone to stop & binding at bottom right before break through. The lightweight is just way too addicting and it was the first time I used my powered gas auger this ice season.
I like to hear how many inches of ice are you guys getting per 4ah battery?
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Not every outing is gonna be the same, I'm drilling holes to be on top of fish. Wether it's 5 or 60 per day, I believe its the consecutive drilling is what's draining the battery quicker. Yes, this setup is very addictive due to the light weight and instant power. No more mixing, priming, and pulling cords for this guy ;D. Fisherman-Andy, i used to run an 8" Nils on my tanaka and have since switched to 6" for the last 3 yrs and I have no problem bringing fish top side but Im usually targeting panfish. I'm surprised you went through 3 batteries before using the gasser. Did you do any fishing or were you just trigger happy?...lol
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Not every outing is gonna be the same, I'm drilling holes to be on top of fish. Wether it's 5 or 60 per day, I believe its the consecutive drilling is what's draining the battery quicker. Yes, this setup is very addictive due to the light weight and instant power. No more mixing, priming, and pulling cords for this guy ;D. Fisherman-Andy, i used to run an 8" Nils on my tanaka and have since switched to 6" for the last 3 yrs and I have no problem bringing fish top side but Im usually targeting panfish. I'm surprised you went through 3 batteries before using the gasser. Did you do any fishing or were you just trigger happy?...lol
I dont think consecutive drilling drains the battery any quicker. The battery sitting itself after use in the cold is worse. I have been out with my Clam Drill plate for about a month or over now on 6"-21" of ice. Its been the same everytime. I have the 6" clam bit, the 7" lazer, and the 8" lazer. I am not averaging more then 500" of ice per the said claims of up to 700". Its evident that the 6" bit is the best for this setup. I use this mainly for scouting so I will easily drill 40-60 holes in a day or more.
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I switch from a 7in lazer to an 8in nils......I'm positive the nils drills easier, gets more holes, & doesnt bind/catch at bottom of the hole ever. If you have to option try a nils on it if you can andy.
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Yesterday I put my drill and one battery to the test.
I'm using a DeWalt 985 20vMax 3.0AH with a 6" Lazer mounted on the Clam Drill Plate. This is a drill that's a few years old and hasn't been babied...I work in masonry construction and it's paid for itself a few times.
13" of ice 29 holes...377" of ice drilled one battery. Every hole was also cleaned/reamed out after drilling thru, so taking that into consideration, I'm certain it could have drilled a few more.
I've got a total of $75 invested into this set up....$60 for the Drill Plate, $15 for the Clam extension.
Best $75 I ever invested in my ice gear. :icefish:
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I switch from a 7in lazer to an 8in nils......I'm positive the nils drills easier, gets more holes, & doesnt bind/catch at bottom of the hole ever. If you have to option try a nils on it if you can andy.
Agro, can you give me the size specs on the bolts that you used to connect the Nils to the clam plate? My lazer has been cutting pretty good so but will switch to the Nils when ice gets thicker for more holes if you do indeed get more holes ???
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Agronomist/IA- Where you located in NW Iowa? Okoboji area? How do you like the 8" NILS? Is it the blue or orange?
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48 holes today thru 10" of ice, 6" lazer. Two bars left on the Fuel 4ah battery. Did have it shut down once when it got stuck - for the first time in my experience - probably the protection circuitry shuts it down if too much amp draw. It woke up immediately when freed up and continued. Still having trouble with the trigger sticking, almost pulled me down the hole one time.
This is perfect for me. I hole hopped and fished about as long at one time as I can stand. Wish the fishing was better, but did get a 18.5" LMB.
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48 holes today thru 10" of ice, 6" lazer. Two bars left on the Fuel 4ah battery. Did have it shut down once when it got stuck - for the first time in my experience - probably the protection circuitry shuts it down if too much amp draw. It woke up immediately when freed up and continued. Still having trouble with the trigger sticking, almost pulled me down the hole one time.
This is perfect for me. I hole hopped and fished about as long at one time as I can stand. Wish the fishing was better, but did get a 18.5" LMB.
Buzz23, if you're still experiencing a stuck trigger try loosening the lock nut and bolt on the trigger lever. I did this to mine and no more problems, I also added a little grease inside where the bolt goes through.
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I took the "shoulder bolt" off and greased that, and loosened up and greased the other bolt too. Seems a lot better.
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48 holes today thru 10" of ice, 6" lazer. Two bars left on the Fuel 4ah battery. Did have it shut down once when it got stuck - for the first time in my experience - probably the protection circuitry shuts it down if too much amp draw. It woke up immediately when freed up and continued. Still having trouble with the trigger sticking, almost pulled me down the hole one time.
This is perfect for me. I hole hopped and fished about as long at one time as I can stand. Wish the fishing was better, but did get a 18.5" LMB.
You need to re adjust how your drill is mounted, I also experienced the same issue,after playing around how it was mounted the sticking issue was fixed
Also check and see how tight the trigger screw is, maybe back it off some
Good luck
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Not every outing is gonna be the same, I'm drilling holes to be on top of fish. Wether it's 5 or 60 per day, I believe its the consecutive drilling is what's draining the battery quicker. Yes, this setup is very addictive due to the light weight and instant power. No more mixing, priming, and pulling cords for this guy ;D. Fisherman-Andy, i used to run an 8" Nils on my tanaka and have since switched to 6" for the last 3 yrs and I have no problem bringing fish top side but Im usually targeting panfish. I'm surprised you went through 3 batteries before using the gasser. Did you do any fishing or were you just trigger happy?...lol
When do you guys have time to fish? Don't think I have ever drilled 40 holes in a day!!
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When do you guys have time to fish? Don't think I have ever drilled 40 holes in a day!!
Whenever I hit the ice I like to deploy the search and destroy method ;D. I'm not a shack or bucket fisherman waiting for the fish to come to me, I'm always on the hunt. :P
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Whenever I hit the ice I like to deploy the search and destroy method ;D. I'm not a shack or bucket fisherman waiting for the fish to come to me, I'm always on the hunt. :P
Never had that problem, fish with a bucket, and catch fish I'm one of the 20%!!! Don't even need a flasher to find them, I know most of the time where they are!!
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Never had that problem, fish with a bucket, and catch fish I'm one of the 20%!!! Don't even need a flasher to find them, I know most of the time where they are!!
Well...wheres the fun in that? I just like being on the move and sitting in the shack would just bore me :tipup:
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Agro, can you give me the size specs on the bolts that you used to connect the Nils to the clam plate? My lazer has been cutting pretty good so but will switch to the Nils when ice gets thicker for more holes if you do indeed get more holes ???
Sorry haven't been on fourm a few days. I'll check tomarrow and let you know.
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Agronomist/IA- Where you located in NW Iowa? Okoboji area? How do you like the 8" NILS? Is it the blue or orange?
It was the blue one with an adaptor to clam plate got it from cabelas on sale for 150 then got a $20 off and free ship so I picked it up for $130......its just smooth cutting. Lazer is fast, but you can just feel it takes way more torque to turn it vs the nils.
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When do you guys have time to fish? Don't think I have ever drilled 40 holes in a day!!
It can be done, but I haven't gone through a fully charged 4amp battery yet. Ice has been between 8-20 inches around here. I have been averaging about 25-30 holes an outing. When on 20in of ice i got about 22 holes and had a little battery left. Usually I find the fish after a few holes/moves. I could see it if you lived on the bigger heavier structure lakes up north.
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read most of the reveiws on this thread and sounds like either the milwaukee fuel or the new makita are what most guys been using on there clam plates . decided to go with the new makita but home depot sold out of them . got a deal on the 995 dewalt but haventheard much talk on weather guys been having the same success with the dewalt ? any one try the dewalt 995 yet???
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That one should be OK. Here's a video by Clam showing 102 holes through 7" of ice with that same drill (I think).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaUW-BThGQ8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaUW-BThGQ8)
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WOW !!! 102 holes with 7" inches of ice ya i say it will do the job / thanks there buzz - last year on lake ERie ice got to be 3 feet thick real tuff hand augering so gona give this set up a try soon ? Eries just not safe yet but wont be long now . after seeing video should be just fine !!!
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I'm just getting back into fishing after a long layoff, and I think I need someone to talk me OUT of this setup, or confirm it...
We fish for big pike, so I'm not sure a 6" hole is acceptable - but I see how much easier on the drill it is vs an 8" setup. (I've always used a rarely reliable Jiffy 8" from the 70's)
I like the price and the option to switch to hand-powered on this one, but it doesn't come in 8"
http://tinyurl.com/n6faho7
If my drill is 500 in/lbs of torque, and I rarely drill more than 16 holes in a day, would that be enough to drill sixteen 8" holes in a day? Typically we're 20" of ice or less.
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500 in-# is marginal for 8", but even more important is having lithium batteries of 3 or more ah capacity. Guys are successfully using an 8" nils with the Milwaukee Fuel drill, there's a thread nearby which explains their experience. How much you can back off from a top of the line brushless drill and still get the job done? I don't know. Pointerguy who started the clam plate thread tried a couple of drills which did not work on an 8" before he got a Fuel. Read that thread for his experience.
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Hello ... I'm new to the forum and want to ask those who had the Ridged hammer drill if they had troubles getting the chuck off. I have the screw out. I put the allen wrench in like some youtube videos showed but it won't budge and I really don't want to break it. Any tips?
** Update ** finally got it off ... bigger allen wrench and hammer was needed.
- Bryant
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Anyone using a 8" Mora with the Milwaukee Hammer drill (no clam Plate) how's it working out.
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Some guys who have used the Fuel drill on a auger without the clam plate report that the attachment ear for the T-handle will shear off, so I wouldn't use that drill with an 8" auger without the clam plate.
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Was out yesterday using my buddy's with the dewalt and a 8" mora with new blades we got 20 holes through 8" but you could smell the drill a little with his 6" he can punch 25 and just use one bar.big big difference.i don't like fishing out of 6" hole personally.found the auger to be very short so you will be touching your toes allot.i think if you are short and are find with 6" hole it worked well.have no experience with the nils.
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I may have already responded in this thread. Don't have time to review, but I'm running an 8 inch Nils convertible(Orange/Black) with Milwaukee Fuel 18, 4 amp Red Lithium batteries, without clam plate and everything is working great for me. I tested hole capacity a month ago in 12-14" ice on a 15 degree day and got 39,5 holes from one battery. Could have got the 40th hole, but too much stop/start for my taste. No warming the battery before use. I have not needed the "T" handle as the counter-clockwise pressure on the drill is easily managed by hand.
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Question for the thread.... Just removed and replaced a Ridged drill chuck in less than 5 minutes time. (easy) but have also spent the last hour trying like hell to remove the chuck from my Milwaukee hammer with no luck. it should be a left hand screw thread like most drills, tried putting heat to the screw to loosen the loctite, It just won't break loose, any suggestions, has anyone else had this issue with the Milwaukee chuck. I want to use the Milwaukee with a clam drill plate. owners manual has no info on chuck removal.
Thanks for any suggestions offered
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Thanks Gills but it's a no go. did the video technique didn't work, gave it every tool I have LOL and I have a lot of tools. maybe repair center near by has a type of bit that will grab the screw head better than a philips or slotted.
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Another reason I like using the cordless drill as my auger. Multi purpose the battery. I made this dock station as a power source for controlling my LED lights.
(http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/bjboles825/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150131_161749_183_zps1783cf90.jpg) (http://s973.photobucket.com/user/bjboles825/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150131_161749_183_zps1783cf90.jpg.html)
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Ran my fuel18 , 4 ah battery till it quit today! 500-550" ice!! Love that set- up!!
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I have read that you should never run the newer type batteries down that far. And that you should charge them every time after use.
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I have read that you should never run the newer type batteries down that far. And that you should charge them every time after use.
. They are made to quit on their own,its a built in safety, they don't go slower or anything they just quit!! A buddy of mine works on them and that's what he said!
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This thread is great, but I'm still not confident I'm buying the best setup. So, maybe someone can hold my hand one more time before I waste my money?
I fish tipups only, 1 spot each day.
I rarely drill more than 16 holes in a day.
I fish for pike, so I've always used an 8" hole, but I think a 7" would be fine. 6" might be too small?
Typically I'm fishing in less than 20" of ice.
I'm going to buy the 7" Lazer, a clam plate, and a new cordless. (If I can save up my pennies I'll buy the Makita, otherwise, the ol' Mil or the Dewault would be $50 less and fine for what I'm doing?)
Should I push the "purchase now button" or change my setup?
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This thread is great, but I'm still not confident I'm buying the best setup. So, maybe someone can hold my hand one more time before I waste my money?
I fish tipups only, 1 spot each day.
I rarely drill more than 16 holes in a day.
I fish for pike, so I've always used an 8" hole, but I think a 7" would be fine. 6" might be too small?
Typically I'm fishing in less than 20" of ice.
I'm going to buy the 7" Lazer, a clam plate, and a new cordless. (If I can save up my pennies I'll buy the Makita, otherwise, the ol' Mil or the Dewault would be $50 less and fine for what I'm doing?)
Should I push the "purchase now button" or change my setup?
16 holes? That's an easy buy now if it were me ;D
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16 holes? That's an easy buy now if it were me ;D
sweet, thx.
Now...since we're all in agreement, I'm pushing the buy button, right?
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Make sure you get an extension, too. The clam plate directly to a lazer lower half makes for a short stack.
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This thread is great, but I'm still not confident I'm buying the best setup. So, maybe someone can hold my hand one more time before I waste my money?
I fish tipups only, 1 spot each day.
I rarely drill more than 16 holes in a day.
I fish for pike, so I've always used an 8" hole, but I think a 7" would be fine. 6" might be too small?
Typically I'm fishing in less than 20" of ice.
I'm going to buy the 7" Lazer, a clam plate, and a new cordless. (If I can save up my pennies I'll buy the Makita, otherwise, the ol' Mil or the Dewault would be $50 less and fine for what I'm doing?)
Should I push the "purchase now button" or change my setup?i
Get the makita
get a nills 8in
clam plate.
I have that setup with the milwaukee, better and cuts easier then a 7in lazer.
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I am still doing fine with my 7" lazer power bit on M18 Fuel. Right now cutting through 16" of black ice with no issues. Did 25 holes on 1 battery and it was 15 degrees out. Really happy with this set up.
I used the 7" power lazer bit off my old strikemaster electra just because I had it. If I was going to go with a new bit I would get a NILs.
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I am still doing fine with my 7" lazer power bit on M18 Fuel. Right now cutting through 16" of black ice with no issues. Did 25 holes on 1 battery and it was 15 degrees out. Really happy with this set up.
I used the 7" power lazer bit off my old strikemaster electra just because I had it. If I was going to go with a new bit I would get a NILs.
wow, good setup.
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Hey guys gonna get the clam conversion plate and set up a cordless drill auger for when I am just out pulling my glide lite sled. I have bad shoulders and rheumatoid arthritis (at 42, lol) and its getting to be a bare to drill holes by hand even in "thin" ice.
I have a Strike Master Lazer 5inch that I will use initially as I really only fish for pan fish and perch. I need a new cordless drill anyways so I'll pick up one of the Milwaukee Fuel 18v (unless there is a better choice).
Looks like I will need an extension for the auger, unless I want to get on my knee while drilling? Anything else or in particular that I need or "need" (lol) to make this a good setup?
Thanks
J-
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If you guys are wanting to save money/weight/bulk I think I would consider skipping the conversion plate. I got a hand/drill converter for $12 and paired with a 6" mora and a Dewalt 18 volt I already had. The converter is about 15" long so there's your extension. Also there is no need to remove the drill chuck. The thing works great, it doesn't bind and the drill is easily held by hand. I originally planned to use the extra handle for the drill but forgot it the first time out and found that's it's not necessary. Cut a circle out of plywood to slide over the auger in case the chuck loosens up (which it hasn't yet) to keep the auger from going for a swim and good to go. Just my 2 cents.
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Hey guys gonna get the clam conversion plate and set up a cordless drill auger for when I am just out pulling my glide lite sled. I have bad shoulders and rheumatoid arthritis (at 42, lol) and its getting to be a bare to drill holes by hand even in "thin" ice.
I have a Strike Master Lazer 5inch that I will use initially as I really only fish for pan fish and perch. I need a new cordless drill anyways so I'll pick up one of the Milwaukee Fuel 18v (unless there is a better choice).
Looks like I will need an extension for the auger, unless I want to get on my knee while drilling? Anything else or in particular that I need or "need" (lol) to make this a good setup?
Thanks
J-
Guess hunt n fish didn't read your thread about arthritis and all, sound like you would really benefit from one!!(plate)
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Guess hunt n fish didn't read your thread about arthritis and all, sound like you would really benefit from one!!(plate)
That was the reason I was looking at it.
J-
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I read it wrong too I thought he was going from hand to drill cause of the arthritis .so you are saying that it would be easier on his shoulders using the clam plate with a drill than just the drill?
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With my lower back and neck being fused up after breaking them in 2002 the clam plate seems to be more comfortable and less painful than running just drill even drill with side handle. I think the spacing of the plate handles is a lot more than drill with side handle.
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Hey guys gonna get the clam conversion plate and set up a cordless drill auger for when I am just out pulling my glide lite sled. I have bad shoulders and rheumatoid arthritis (at 42, lol) and its getting to be a bare to drill holes by hand even in "thin" ice.
I have a Strike Master Lazer 5inch that I will use initially as I really only fish for pan fish and perch. I need a new cordless drill anyways so I'll pick up one of the Milwaukee Fuel 18v (unless there is a better choice).
Looks like I will need an extension for the auger, unless I want to get on my knee while drilling? Anything else or in particular that I need or "need" (lol) to make this a good setup?
Thanks
J-
Your 5in lazer will be fine. You will want an extention with it. On my 7in eskimo that was a shaver and I converted it to a lazer I needed the clam extention otherwise I'd be hunched over drilling holes all day. About the only hand auger you don't need an extention for is the nils. If you want a bigger hole you can always just piggyback/figure 8 two holes with you 5in.
I can vouch for the M18 getting the job done, however I hear the new makita is a beast.....I would check it out i beleve it has about 30% more torque then the milwaukee.
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Your 5in lazer will be fine. You will want an extention with it. On my 7in eskimo that was a shaver and I converted it to a lazer I needed the clam extention otherwise I'd be hunched over drilling holes all day. About the only hand auger you don't need an extention for is the nils. If you want a bigger hole you can always just piggyback/figure 8 two holes with you 5in.
I can vouch for the M18 getting the job done, however I hear the new makita is a beast.....I would check it out i beleve it has about 30% more torque then the milwaukee.
Milwaukee is 725 in/lb Makita 1090 in/lb.... not much more in price for the Makita kit. Milwaukee has a 5.0 Ah battery available, Makita has a 5.0Ah battery, last I seen their 5.0 battery was in Europe only, I think it will be sold here soon. I have the Milwaukee with a 5.0 Ah battery but if I was buying now I'd go with the Makita.
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Milwaukee is 725 in/lb Makita 1090 in/lb.... not much more in price for the Makita kit. Milwaukee has a 5.0 Ah battery available, Makita has a 5.0Ah battery, last I seen their 5.0 battery was in Europe only, I think it will be sold here soon. I have the Milwaukee with a 5.0 Ah battery but if I was buying now I'd go with the Makita.
How much for the 5ah?
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How much for the 5ah?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-XC-5-Ah-Extended-Capacity-Battery-48-11-1850/205620421?keyword=milwaukee+5.0Ah+battery $129.00
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-XC-5-Ah-Extended-Capacity-Battery-48-11-1850/205620421?keyword=milwaukee+5.0Ah+battery $129.00
I Give it 6 months, the price will come down!!
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I Give it 6 months, the price will come down!!
Don't think the 4.0Ah dropped in price since last winter, but you never know.
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Amazon right now a 4ah battery $82 free shipping
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Amazon right now a 4ah battery $82 free shipping
great price, so wait six months buy the 5.0Ah in August use it next year but then the 6.0 Ah will be out :o. or just stick with the 4.0 which works just fine.
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Have 2 4ah, that will do me for a while!!
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So, I had an old (1980s) Mora auger, folding style, that I made an adapter for to use with the clam plate + Ridgid 18V hammer drill. It worked OK up to about 8" ice then would stall, cut, stall, cut. I wasn't confident new blades would be enough as the ice is now pushing 20" in places. I used this as an excuse to pick up a 6" Fin Bore III from a local tackle shop. I've wanted to upgrade my Mora for a while now. Wow! What a difference! I know, I know, that sounds obvious but I'd never used one before. By hand it blasted through 18" hard black ice in less than a minute, no pressure. On the clam plate/drill, about 10s or less to go thru 18" effortlessly. No idea yet how many holes I will get yet but I am very impressed. Looking forward to getting some lakers too big for the 6" hole LOL! ;D
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looks like the Dewalt dropped under $200 over the weekend.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6IDIO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=26D5J6GYK35RV&coliid=I1JQLGKV19NN63
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That is a very good price, Pete.
But, the drill to get is the Brush-less Hammer drill. ;)2
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That is a very good price, Pete.
But, the drill to get is the Brush-less Hammer drill. ;)2
Brushless, runs with a "heavier" transmission so to speak, to prevent heat-up, which is why they just quit drilling!! The hammer drill is built heavier, I'm pretty sure!
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True, Gills. Even though it's run on drill mode. Better than good, ha. :bow:
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Just picked up a clam plate today, but I'm still doing research and saving up for a drill. Hopefully I'll have a drill before the end of the season. The recomended drills on this review are a bit expensive (especially since I'm not in power tools or building things) but at least this way the money spent won't be for a specially dedicated tool like a powered ice auger. If I didn't go this rout I was looking at the SM lazer ion, which would of been at least a hundred more than the drill and I won't be able to use it more than half the year.
Now, since I live in Maine (thickish ice) and I have a 7" lazer auger; are there any drill sets that are 250 or less that would be suitable? I usually don't do any more than 15-20 holes in a day.
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With that few holes, it's something to consider: A money saving drill (set) with a limited warranty or the best with a lifetime warranty. ??? :unsure:
One and done, with the best seems frugal and in the long run will really save you a lot. :o
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Good point, buy quality and buy once. Now, the Milwaukee has a two year longer warrantee, but the makita has 300# more torque. Both sets I'm looking at are the same price right now (homedepot.com) for the Milwaukee 2604-22 and the matika xfd07m. Which one would you guys go with?
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I cast my one feeble vote for Rigid brushless hammer drill and the lifetime warranty on all components. ;)2
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Me and the brother both have the Milwaukee brushless M18.
2604-22 or the 2603-22(non-hammer) Both have 700 in lbs of torque with a battery indicator built into the batterty.
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I have the 2604-22 also, great setup!!
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I love my Milwaukee fuel 18v... Wouldn't change it for anything...
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Good point, buy quality and buy once. Now, the Milwaukee has a two year longer warrantee, but the makita has 300# more torque. Both sets I'm looking at are the same price right now (homedepot.com) for the Milwaukee 2604-22 and the matika xfd07m. Which one would you guys go with?
I've got the milwaukee with two 4amp batteries. Great drill. However, the makita has 300# more torque and wasnt out when I got the milwaukee. If it was I'd be running a makita. 😮. My milwaukee seems to turn my 8in nils and 7in lazer no problem, but I think with the extra torque of the makita it would be easier on that drill. It's kinda like a pickup truck, you may not need the extra power but it sure is nice to have when you do need it. Knock on wood, I haven't had my milwaukee stop drilling a hole yet.....but i've only drilled through about 18-24inches of ice at most for a hole with it. I don't know if it would heat up and stop in a 3ft hole or not. I would think with the extra power the makita would be even less likely to heat up and stop drilling, and be harder to over work the drill.
They have the torque specs for a reason to compare the drills, use it.
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Good point, buy quality and buy once. Now, the Milwaukee has a two year longer warrantee, but the makita has 300# more torque. Both sets I'm looking at are the same price right now (homedepot.com) for the Milwaukee 2604-22 and the matika xfd07m. Which one would you guys go with?
I have the Milwaukee but if I was buying today I'd go with the Makita. Why not get 365 extra in/lbs of torque for just about the same cost. The makita set----drill, charger and two 4.0Ah batteries or wait till the 5.0Ah battery becomes available here in the states, hopefully soon and buy the drill charger and one 5.0 Ah battery separate.
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I haven't had my milwaukee stop drilling a hole yet.....but i've only drilled through about 18-24inches of ice at most for a hole with it. I don't know if it would heat up and stop in a 3ft hole or not.
I have the identical drill and have drilled up to eight holes in 30+ inches and the drill just keeps on going. The only problem I had is without the "T" handle I have to get down on my knees because of the wrist pressure.
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That is a very good price, Pete.
But, the drill to get is the Brush-less Hammer drill. ;)2
I guess thats why it dropped...
I think I have my mind made up on the Fuel anyway.
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I have the identical drill and have drilled up to eight holes in 30+ inches and the drill just keeps on going. The only problem I had is without the "T" handle I have to get down on my knees because of the wrist pressure.
last year I drilled 15 holes in 30" of ice and still had half battery left using a ridgid hammer drill 615 in/lbs with a 6" k-drill and no clam plate. Tomorrow I'll be using the Milwaukee hammer, clam plate and 8" Mora. should get more than enough holes in to fish all day with one 5.0Ah batt.
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If I need calculus to drill a hole, I'll stick with my 4" in Fin Bor ;D
Simply put, the drill doesn't have enough ooomph to drill 8" holes.
RG
A year later....It's not calculus, Bro, It's geometry! ;D
Stay with it,
Ted
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To anyone who like to know the Nils 8" Trekker bit will fit the clam extension. There is minor play but it's the same play as using a Strikemaster bit too. A little masking or electrical will ease that. On the 6" trekker I don't know if the shaft size is the same to fit like the 8". I would assume it is?
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Right now until April 1st or 30th not sure which one, Milwaukee is having a tool trade in sale. I got the M18 Fuel with (2) 4a batteries for $179. I live in Iowa not sure if that matters or not. I bought mine from Acme tools. The crazy thing is I have not seen this advertised anywhere. I was actually told by a Milwaukee rep. Trade in an old drill and receive $100 off.
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wish i had the extra cash, i would love a second m18 fuel so i could leave mine on the clam plate and not have to keep putting it on and taking it off.
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A bare tool is not too expensive ($130 or so). You don't need another charger or more batteries.
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wish i had the extra cash, i would love a second m18 fuel so i could leave mine on the clam plate and not have to keep putting it on and taking it off.
$95 on Amazon, shipped to the door, bare drill!! That's what I did, leave it on and work projects with the other drill!!
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I have the identical drill and have drilled up to eight holes in 30+ inches and the drill just keeps on going. The only problem I had is without the "T" handle I have to get down on my knees because of the wrist pressure.
What size auger 6 or 8"??
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I just got the same deal on the fuel 18v. Trade old drill and one battery for 100 bucks off. Also I discussed at length with the Milwaukee salesman if there was any difference between the drill and hammer drill. He said that there wasn't any difference only that the hammer selection for concrete. I told him it was for ice fishing and he said to only buy the drill which saved 20 bucks. This was at a contractor tool store not a big chain store. He works off commission and knows his stuff
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Last week I went out, there was more than 24" of ice, felt like I wasn't going to make it to my 5th hole in a row using a 7" lazer hand auger. I need to get the drill soon, but I still haven't really figured out if it's worth getting the makita for the extra torque or is the M18 fuel going to work fine without draining the battery too quickly or wearing down the tool faster.
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Last week I went out, there was more than 24" of ice, felt like I wasn't going to make it to my 5th hole in a row using a 7" lazer hand auger. I need to get the drill soon, but I still haven't really figured out if it's worth getting the makita for the extra torque or is the M18 fuel going to work fine without draining the battery too quickly or wearing down the tool faster.
Its a chevy/ford debate, whatever you feel is going to work better, the Makita has more torque, but I think the Milwaukee drills outnumber them, has to be a reason for that!!
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I just ordered the Makita today. I hemmed and hawed for about two weeks reading every post on different forums trying to decide between the Makita or Milwaukee. I thought for the 70.00 more why not rather than have to wish I went bigger later on.I only want to buy once.
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I just ordered the Makita today. I hemmed and hawed for about two weeks reading every post on different forums trying to decide between the Makita or Milwaukee. I thought for the 70.00 more why not rather than have to wish I went bigger later on.I only want to buy once.
You'll like it. The Makita drilled as many holes as I wanted (didn't count 'em) w/out the Clam plate. Only used 1/3 capacity on first battery...
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Its a chevy/ford debate, whatever you feel is going to work better, the Makita has more torque, but I think the Milwaukee drills outnumber them, has to be a reason for that!!
but I think the Milwaukee drills outnumber them Gills don't you think Milwaukee outnumbers Makita because Makita just came out with the 1090 in/lb drill this year and Milwaukee 725 in/lb was out last year and maybe longer.
Ridgerunner, you say $70.00 more for the Makita, when I compared kit to kit- drill, charger, and two batteries the price difference I found was $15.00 more for the Makita.
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make sure the Makita was the XPH07T with the 5AH batteries. CPO industrial price was 349.00. Cheepest I found. They do make one with 4AH batteries
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make sure the Makita was the XPH07T with the 5AH batteries. CPO industrial price was 349.00. Cheepest I found. They do make one with 4AH batteries
5Ah battery available now, that's good. this will do the job for you.
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but I think the Milwaukee drills outnumber them Gills don't you think Milwaukee outnumbers Makita because Makita just came out with the 1090 in/lb drill this year and Milwaukee 725 in/lb was out last year and maybe longer.
Ridgerunner, you say $70.00 more for the Makita, when I compared kit to kit- drill, charger, and two batteries the price difference I found was $15.00 more for the Makita.
Might be, but they also have a very good reputation!!
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Read carefully...
1) The new Makita edges the Milwaukee in TQ but it did not drill any more holes on a charge.
2) Makita batteries have always been terrible when it comes to longevity. Hopefully this has changed.
3) Milwaukee released the new 5.0 red lithium Ion battery in late 2014 for another 20-25% life.
4) Milwaukee's Red Lithium Ion batteries are not effected by cold weather. They are rated to perform down to -19 C. This is by far the biggest advantage for Mil and why I bought the drill. I am guessing others will follow suit with battery technology if not already.
The bottom line is Milwaukee paved the way for brushless technology and long life batteries. Take the time and do the research like I did and read more then 1 site that tests drills.
Took this off a different thread!
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Read carefully...
1) The new Makita edges the Milwaukee in TQ but it did not drill any more holes on a charge.
2) Makita batteries have always been terrible when it comes to longevity. Hopefully this has changed.
3) Milwaukee released the new 5.0 red lithium Ion battery in late 2014 for another 20-25% life.
4) Milwaukee's Red Lithium Ion batteries are not effected by cold weather. They are rated to perform down to -19 C[-4F]. This is by far the biggest advantage for Mil and why I bought the drill. I am guessing others will follow suit with battery technology if not already.
The bottom line is Milwaukee paved the way for brushless technology and long life batteries. Take the time and do the research like I did and read more then 1 site that tests drills.
Took this off a different thread!
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Read carefully...
1) The new Makita edges the Milwaukee in TQ but it did not drill any more holes on a charge.
2) Makita batteries have always been terrible when it comes to longevity. Hopefully this has changed.
3) Milwaukee released the new 5.0 red lithium Ion battery in late 2014 for another 20-25% life.
4) Milwaukee's Red Lithium Ion batteries are not effected by cold weather. They are rated to perform down to -19 C. This is by far the biggest advantage for Mil and why I bought the drill. I am guessing others will follow suit with battery technology if not already.
The bottom line is Milwaukee paved the way for brushless technology and long life batteries. Take the time and do the research like I did and read more then 1 site that tests drills.
Took this off a different thread!
good info thanks
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After reading that bit about battery longevity and designed for cold I went with the Milwaukee today, plus it was in stock vs ordering and waiting for the Mikita. Now my problem is I don't have a Philips screwdriver big enough to really grab that chuck screw enough to break the loctite. Looks like I'll need to see if a friend is available with proper tools or bring it back into Home Depot and see if I can get them to help.
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After reading that bit about battery longevity and designed for cold I went with the Milwaukee today, plus it was in stock vs ordering and waiting for the Mikita. Now my problem is I don't have a Philips screwdriver big enough to really grab that chuck screw enough to break the loctite. Looks like I'll need to see if a friend is available with proper tools or bring it back into Home Depot and see if I can get them to help.
USE A #2 square drive bit, i mangled mine using philips #3. the screw is actually designed for their multi bit ecx #2 or whatever they call it. i ordered new replacement screw for mine from ereplacementparts.com.
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After reading that bit about battery longevity and designed for cold I went with the Milwaukee today, plus it was in stock vs ordering and waiting for the Mikita. Now my problem is I don't have a Philips screwdriver big enough to really grab that chuck screw enough to break the loctite. Looks like I'll need to see if a friend is available with proper tools or bring it back into Home Depot and see if I can get them to help.
I had the same problem with the screw. I have all kinds of tools and worked on it for two days with no success. I wound up taking it to a electrical repair shop that repairs Milwaukee. I asked him if it was the loctite and he said no, just that it was extremely tight and the chuck was also. Before trying to take out the screw I used it with a 7" laser for two days of fishing, lazers really grab hard especially at the bottom of the hole, wonder if that really torqued the heck out of the screw and chuck. Repair shop charged $5 to get it out. You do know it's a left hand thread turn clockwise to loosen. Maybe with the right tool you'll have better luck than I did. Now the funny part of the story is, I used the drill with the clam plate a few times and wound up removing it, reason being it forced me to bring two drills on the ice, one with the auger and plate and one for screwing in my Eskimo ice anchors, to much gear to bring out. Back to square one
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Chi, I do know that it's a reversed screw, and I'm about to bring it into The store to see if I can get some help or get the right bit to work on it. I really hope to use it today.
Also, your screen name throws me off evey time I see one of your posts because that's my first name lol.
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Chi, I do know that it's a reversed screw, and I'm about to bring it into The store to see if I can get some help or get the right bit to work on it. I really hope to use it today.
Also, your screen name throws me off evey time I see one of your posts because that's my first name lol.
If you find a bit that really grabs the screw head let me know. Took my Ridgid screw and chuck off and reassembled in less than 5 minutes but had a heck of a time with the Milwaukee.
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I used my ridgid drill, I could get the center screw out but couldn't get the chuck off. I called HD and the guy said to bring it in cuz they had a special service group that could get it off. So, I drove down there (half hour drive) and talk to everybody and they all shrug and say they don't have a clue how to get it off! I got a hold of the manager that told me to bring it in and it's a pimple faced kid, first thing he asks me is if the chuck is supposed to come off! I hope you have better luck with HD than I did, I won't waste time with them anymore. I finally came up with a fix to use the drill and clam plate without taking the chuck off. Works great but when the ice gets thick it eats up batteries. Last time I was out I got almost 4 holes through 18" of ice before the battery died. But I gotta admit, I only have the 1.5 amp battery. Whatever drill you use, get the better batteries. The thing I'm thinking though is, with everything I paid for on this thing and the fact that I need to spend a couple hundred more on batteries if I want to use this thing on thicker ice, I'da probably saved money by getting a real ice auger and not screwing up my drill as much as I did trying to get the dang chuck off. ::)
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USE A #2 square drive bit, i mangled mine using philips #3. the screw is actually designed for their multi bit ecx #2 or whatever they call it. i ordered new replacement screw for mine from ereplacementparts.com.
I got mine out pretty easy with a large flat blade screwdriver. The chuck, though, was a problem.
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Well it seems mine is extremely stubborn, Home Depot guys tried but couldn't get it out with another impact drill and the ecx bit. But my friend came over and we heated the screw with his solder iron and then leaned into it on a secured blunt Philips screwdriver and then turned on the drill! Now I'm trying to get the chuck off using the Allen wrench and hammer method to no avail, I've bent my two biggest wrenches. Going over to friends house to try some of his tools.
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I got mine out pretty easy with a large flat blade screwdriver. The chuck, though, was a problem.
flat head for me was no go.
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Well it seems mine is extremely stubborn, Home Depot guys tried but couldn't get it out with another impact drill and the ecx bit. But my friend came over and we heated the screw with his solder iron and then leaned into it on a secured blunt Philips screwdriver and then turned on the drill! Now I'm trying to get the chuck off using the Allen wrench and hammer method to no avail, I've bent my two biggest wrenches. Going over to friends house to try some of his tools.
if you have a 1/2 inch drive 1/2 inch hex socket and breaker bar it will come right off, the screw was a nightmare but chuck came off with a simple twist of the breaker bar.
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it's been mentioned before and you probably already know but I figure I would mention it again just in case. The center screw is a left hand thread but the chuck is right hand. You turn the screw cw to loosen and the chuck ccw to loosen.
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I know it was mentioned above but here is a link to the trade-in and models. 2604-20 less 100 bucks is a winner for me, I have about 6 Dewalts DOA around here somewhere....
http://www.neushardware.com/milwaukee-tool-trade-savings/
Honestly, attaching a drill to my Nils convertible is going to seem like E-Z mode for making holes in ice.
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Makita is attached to clam plate. No Problem. Got out my augers out. Finbore is old folding model doesn't fit. My old Moras have welded attachment to handle. The two lazers I have are 4 in. which is welded so the 5in is the only one I can use tomorrow. Mostly Perch fishing but northerns and lakers are not uncommon.
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Makita is attached to clam plate. No Problem. Got out my augers out. Finbore is old folding model doesn't fit. My old Moras have welded attachment to handle. The two lazers I have are 4 in. which is welded so the 5in is the only one I can use tomorrow. Mostly Perch fishing but northerns and lakers are not uncommon.
You'll love the plate, no matter what drill is on it!!
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I got the chuck off last night, 3/8 in Allen wrench and a pipe as a breaker bar. I tested it this morning and drill more than 10 holes in 30" of ice (well 24" of solid ice, 6-8" frozen slush layers) and still had a bar left on the battery! Very pleased with the performance with a 7" lazer auger, and the clam extention rod fits in it perfectly.
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Hey everyone first of all thanks to everyone for posting thoughts comments results about this topic made things easy for me. I went with the Milwaukee fuel m18 brushless with 2 4ah batteries. I had an adapter made for my fin bore I 6 inch with fresh blades. I got 14 holes in 32 plus inches of ice over the course of a 6 hour day. I had one bar left on my first battery. Super impressed with the speed of the drill/ auger. Probably going to order 2 5 ah batteries this summer and be done with gas augers all together. I built a battery cover box out of insultex with gorilla tape over. Didn't put a stick on foot warmer inside bc I wanted to see what everyone thought of that? Would it make the battery too hot? Thanks
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Hey everyone first of all thanks to everyone for posting thoughts comments results about this topic made things easy for me. I went with the Milwaukee fuel m18 brushless with 2 4ah batteries. I had an adapter made for my fin bore I 6 inch with fresh blades. I got 14 holes in 32 plus inches of ice over the course of a 6 hour day. I had one bar left on my first battery. Super impressed with the speed of the drill/ auger. Probably going to order 2 5 ah batteries this summer and be done with gas augers all together. I built a battery cover box out of insultex with gorilla tape over. Didn't put a stick on foot warmer inside bc I wanted to see what everyone thought of that? Would it make the battery too hot? Thanks
Was out -20 the other day, drill 40+ holes in 21" ice over the course of 4 hrs before 1st battery quit!! The drill and battery was laying on the ice, and when I left at noon, it had warmed up to 4 degrees above, I wouldn't worry too much about the battery's!!
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The last couple times out I have been drilling through 8" of snow and slush and then 14" or more of ice with my clam plate, M18 Fuel with 6" lazer. With the extension at about 12", I was within 10" of the top at breakthrough. I found that I really need to clear the chips when the hole is wet, especially once the top of the fluting is down in the hole. Had the thing stall once (for a second) when the slush/chips packed around the fluting, but once I started clearing the slush a couple times when I drilled all went OK. Drilled 20-25 holes (I don't keep an accurate count), one bar left. I am still thrilled with this setup. I have only gone through an entire battery once, and that time I was drilling for 3 guys.
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I got the milwawkee 18 fuel and 6 lazer great set up drilled over 30 holes today thru 15in of ice still had 2 bars left.
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Today I kept count. 30 6" holes through 19" of ice with my M18/clam plate/lazer. I think the 700" claimed by clam only works for shallower ice. With deeper ice, the drill has to work more per inch drilled to clear the ice and slush. I'm still happy with this.
The battery had 1 bar when I got home. As soon as it died on the ice I switched the the second battery so I don't know if the first one would have recovered enough for a few more holes. I did notice that it got slower on the last several holes, especially compared to the fresh battery.
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See my above post, I don't work for clam, had 2 other guys with me that were amazed!!
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today I made sure to go out with a full battery and keep count of holes. I drilled 18 holes through ~24" (6-8" of frozen slush/gray ice and 18" of solid ice) and still had half a battery when I got done. This is with the m18 fuel on clam plate with 7"lazer auger. This was on a small pond so I didn't need to drill any more to cover all the sections I wanted to. I'm looking forward to using it on a bigger body of water that I have to follow the fish more.
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Is that Acme tools in CR
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Had a fun day fishing Saturday. used m18v fuel with a 6" jiffy auger. drilled 25 holes with the first battery. drilled 18 with the second battery and had a lot of charge left. I am defiantly a fan of the drill plate. when you drill that deep, control is very handy. click on pic to watch video.
(http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q798/1dangle/th_RICK%20AUGER%201_zpsb0k2khqq.mp4) (http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q798/1dangle/RICK%20AUGER%201_zpsb0k2khqq.mp4)
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Looks like you need the extension!
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Now I'm packing my ice gear away, and I can't get the adapter off the drill. I placed a long Allen wrench into the pin holes and tried to use a pipe on it and ended up bending the wrench. I'm going to try heating the adapter up and try again. Almost thinking about leaving it on the drill, but then I won't have a multi use tool which is why I bought the drill in the first place. It's worked great and Im not regretting the plate set up at all, but getting that chuck off the drill was a project itself, now getting the adapter swapped off is annoying. Then again, now I have the batteries and charger, ordering another bare drill doesnt cost nearly as much...
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About $95 delivered to the door, that's what I did!!
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Guys ACME Tools has a pretty good deal on the Milwaukee Fuel M18 2604-22. It is $249 with free shipping. It comes standard with 2x 3 amp batteries, and right now they are adding an extra 4 amp battery free. This deal was good enough to get me off the fence about buying one!
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You can get the new model from northern tool for about the same price or cheaper. comes with 2-5ah batteries
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200653792_200653792
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200653794_200653794
Use code 243938 on check out to save $50. Coupon code is good through tomorrow.
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New Clam Plate ...No CHUCK Removal Required
Figured I add this as this thread is hot again .
http://stores.clamoutdoors.com/clam/augers/drill-auger-conversion-kit.html
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So do you just tighten the chuck onto the bearing assembly? Was looking into rung one of these this year and would be great to not have to take chuck off
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yup, that's it.
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The Clam plate was a hot item the last two seasons... with the NEW redesigned plate it is certain to get more attention and pull people off the fence about getting one . If you want one better get it quick .
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No Doubt.... everyone seems to sell out quick...
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Clam has been listening to its customers and the insights that they provided ...the first ones didn't have rubber coated handles ...I think the made the drill stand slots longer on its second 2.0 versions as well as the coated handles ....a lot of complaints/concerned about the drill chuck removal ...that has been addressed with its 3.0 version . :clap: :clap: :clap:
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I guess I needed to wait another year on buying this o well waiting to try the old version come on ice.
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Off a Milwaukee Fuel Gen2 review……"There are much subtler differences that you can only notice when the tool is taken apart like this. For one, the drive components are larger. To handle the higher torque, the chuck spindle connection is now 9/16″ wide, from 1/2″. To clarify, this is the connection between gearbox and chuck; the chuck is still a 1/2″ metal single-sleeve ratcheting type."
So for us guys that have the 1st version Clam plate, we can't mount our drill adapter to this new Gen2 Milwaukee Fuels? Or am I not reading this right? If not, what a disappointment to wait for the new perfect drill for the plate and now can't get one.
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Off a Milwaukee Fuel Gen2 review……"There are much subtler differences that you can only notice when the tool is taken apart like this. For one, the drive components are larger. To handle the higher torque, the chuck spindle connection is now 9/16″ wide, from 1/2″. To clarify, this is the connection between gearbox and chuck; the chuck is still a 1/2″ metal single-sleeve ratcheting type."
So for us guys that have the 1st version Clam plate, we can't mount our drill adapter to this new Gen2 Milwaukee Fuels? Or am I not reading this right? If not, what a disappointment to wait for the new perfect drill for the plate and now can't get one.
You have to remove the chuck off the drill to use it on the Clam plate prior to the 2015/2016 model 9935 version
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Off a Milwaukee Fuel Gen2 review……"There are much subtler differences that you can only notice when the tool is taken apart like this. For one, the drive components are larger. To handle the higher torque, the chuck spindle connection is now 9/16″ wide, from 1/2″. To clarify, this is the connection between gearbox and chuck; the chuck is still a 1/2″ metal single-sleeve ratcheting type."
So for us guys that have the 1st version Clam plate, we can't mount our drill adapter to this new Gen2 Milwaukee Fuels? Or am I not reading this right? If not, what a disappointment to wait for the new perfect drill for the plate and now can't get one.
The new Milwaukee drill #2704-22 includes the hammer drill (1200 in lbs torque), (2) 5amp batteries, charger and case for $299. They are showing on line a bonus $79 light included free.
The new drill has a 9/16-18 thread output shaft vs. 1/2-20 on the older model. Also the new drill has a L.H. 8mm Torx Head screw vs. 6mm slotted screw attaching the chuck to the drill shaft. They are using excess thread locking compound on both threads so removal is near impossible. Soaking both with super-glue-remover for 2 days is the only way I could get the chuck off.
The old Clam adapter could be reworked by a competent machinist to accept the new Milwaukee drill.
I do feel the new clam plate will give some people trouble because the chuck will loosen under heavy drilling and will require constant tightening. Unless the adapter is high quality hardened steel the shaft going into the chuck will become mangled much like the problems some have with the Nils
convertible auger.
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Thanks Yankee for the answer…exactly what I was wanting to confirm. I was afraid that was going to be the answer. Clam probably won't be adding any old style adapters in that 2nd 9/16" size…especially seeing it's only one drill lineup that has the 9/16" size? I hadn't really considered your idea of machining it to the new size, but suppose that's the only option. I really wanted to get the new Fuel Gen2. I agree with you about the new style. I kind of feel like the old design was still the more solid stable setup to connect the drill to the auger. The new way was probably a compromise to get more people to use it more easily.…not because it was a more solid idea.
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Nice information everyone, I purchased a Strikemaster Lithium Lazer last year and loved it, but as you know they had a recall so I had to send it back, I hated to but now I am looking to go the electric auger route again.....I have enjoyed reading all the posts and thanks to everyone....you all made me make a decision to go with a clam drill plate and a Milwaukee drill so I thought I would return the favor on a super buy that I just purchased today at Bobs Tools in DesMoines, Ia. Milwaukee fuel 18V combo kit #2897-22 this kit comes with the 1/2" hammer drill/driver#2704-20 (1200in.lbs. torque) and the 1/4" hex impact driver #2753-20 comes with (2) 5ah batteries and charger AND they throw in another 4ah battery for free all for $299....til the end of October, hope this gets you all an early Christmas present as it did for me ;D.. now cant wait to get the clam plate and put it into action this season...happy shopping all.
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I'm happy to see this thread still alive - I happen to have in my hand a $500 Amazon gift card I won in a raffle. I had my mind made up on the Makita, but now I'm thinking the new m18 is the way to go. However, Amazon doesn't sell this $279 bundle:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Drill-Driver-Kit-2703-22/206320080?keyword=2703-22&AID=10368321&PID=1796839&SID=107808355&cm_mmc=CJ-_-1796839-_-10368321&cj=true
I looked on Amazon, but can't seem to match it up. Can anyone help me pick out the right drill, battery and charger on Amazon?
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Amazon doesn't seem to have the model 2703-22. But they have the 2604-22 for $224. That's the Hammer drill with 725 in/lbs of torque which is plenty, brushless motor and 2 4amp batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2604-22-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Hammer/dp/B0076O7182/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31PMd2cKhpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=18DDMSEFH6FNQQ5XXQER
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Amazon doesn't seem to have the model 2703-22. But they have the 2604-22 for $224. That's the Hammer drill with 725 in/lbs of torque which is plenty, brushless motor and 2 4amp batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2604-22-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Hammer/dp/B0076O7182/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31PMd2cKhpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=18DDMSEFH6FNQQ5XXQER
yeah, I saw that.
They have the new model with the 1200/in/lbs but only as a bare tool, no kit. I think I found the 5ah battery and charger for it now. All together it should be a little less than $300 - to me, thats well worth the price difference from the 725in/lbs to the 1200in/lbs.
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I currently only run a Dewalt Drill with around 450 in/lbs of torque....I have never had any problem with my nils 6 inch losing power or overheating or anything like that. Granted, I do have four 4ah batteries and have yet to run out of juice on the lake after 75+ holes. I think you guys going with the 750-1200 in/lbs of torque are going to love it! Might have to look into a bigger drill myself..
Luva
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I currently only run a Dewalt Drill with around 450 in/lbs of torque....I have never had any problem with my nils 6 inch losing power or overheating or anything like that. Granted, I do have four 4ah batteries and have yet to run out of juice on the lake after 75+ holes. I think you guys going with the 750-1200 in/lbs of torque are going to love it! Might have to look into a bigger drill myself..
Luva
I hope so... I just dropped the coin on a new drill kit last week and I'm having an adapter made to hook up on my older version Clam plate to the new Milwaukee as we speak. Should be darn hard to beat this auger combination I'm hoping to see somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500" of ice per 5ah battery and maybe up to 2500" of ice on the new 9ah due out in January... I guess only time will tell.
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Shack man shoney…
Tell us about the adapter being made to fit the old style plate to the new Gen2 Milwaukee Fuels? I know the threaded drill shaft has grown from 1/2" to 9/16". I was going to have my current 1/2" adapter retapped to 9/16", or I'm hoping I can. Is that what you're doing?
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Nice information everyone, I purchased a Strikemaster Lithium Lazer last year and loved it, but as you know they had a recall so I had to send it back, I hated to but now I am looking to go the electric auger route again.....I have enjoyed reading all the posts and thanks to everyone....you all made me make a decision to go with a clam drill plate and a Milwaukee drill so I thought I would return the favor on a super buy that I just purchased today at Bobs Tools in DesMoines, Ia. Milwaukee fuel 18V combo kit #2897-22 this kit comes with the 1/2" hammer drill/driver#2704-20 (1200in.lbs. torque) and the 1/4" hex impact driver #2753-20 comes with (2) 5ah batteries and charger AND they throw in another 4ah battery for free all for $299....til the end of October, hope this gets you all an early Christmas present as it did for me ;D.. now cant wait to get the clam plate and put it into action this season...happy shopping all.
Thanks for the heads up but I cannot find any power Tools on Bobs Tools online Store.Help!!
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Shack man shoney…
Tell us about the adapter being made to fit the old style plate to the new Gen2 Milwaukee Fuels? I know the threaded drill shaft has grown from 1/2" to 9/16". I was going to have my current 1/2" adapter retapped to 9/16", or I'm hoping I can. Is that what you're doing?
Yes that is exactly what I'm attempting..... I have a machinist working on it and I'm hoping to be able to post about it next week. I purchased (4) 1/2-20 adapters from Clam last week and we are trying to make them work with the new 9/16-18 thread spindle on the 1200 in/lb Fuel. I'm hoping It shouldn't be terribly difficult to do with a quality metal lathe and competent machinist. I will post when I have details on the outcome.....
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Yes that is exactly what I'm attempting..... I have a machinist working on it and I'm hoping to be able to post about it next week. I purchased (4) 1/2-20 adapters from Clam last week and we are trying to make them work with the new 9/16-18 thread spindle on the 1200 in/lb Fuel. I'm hoping It shouldn't be terribly difficult to do with a quality metal lathe and competent machinist. I will post when I have details on the outcome.....
Hey shack man, if it works I think I'll need to buy one off of you. My buddy has an old clam plate and bought a new 1200 in/lbs drill.........he needs a modified shaft.
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I just don't get it. I just went to the Home depot web site to check on battery prices for the Ridgids. Still $99 bucks a piece. The thing is, they have the 18v hammer drill with an impact drill and 2 4ah batteries on sale for $229 with free shipping. So I either can spend $200 for a pair of batteries with 3 year warranties or spend $230 for a new drill and impact and a pair of batteries And a friggin tool bag with lifetime warranties. Why are the batteries by themselves so expensive? It makes no sense. >:(
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Will I have any trouble mounting my 6" strikemaster lazer up to this unit? I am guessing most of you guys are using the extension as well? It looks pretty short without one. Thanks,
Steve
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Just bought the new plate for 66.99. Wasn't interested in taking my drill apart so this will work great. Any idea how many holes I'll get with my 18v milwaukee fuel with 4 ah battery using an 8 inch fin bore?
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Just bought the new plate for 66.99. Wasn't interested in taking my drill apart so this will work great. Any idea how many holes I'll get with my 18v milwaukee fuel with 4 ah battery using an 8 inch fin bore?
Depends on ice thickness. I drilled around 30holes in about 2ft of ice and battery left. They were spread out and not one right after the other. I also would keep my auger in the back part of my sled in a heated shack when really cold out.
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Depends on ice thickness. I drilled around 30holes in about 2ft of ice and battery left. They were spread out and not one right after the other. I also would keep my auger in the back part of my sled in a heated shack when really cold out.
That's not bad! I have two batteries also. If I could get 50-60 holes through 2 feet of ice I'll be happy
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That's not bad! I have two batteries also. If I could get 50-60 holes through 2 feet of ice I'll be happy
You should get close to that with two batteries if they are 4amp+. The big ticket item comes out in Jan I believe with Milwaukee releasing a 9amp battery. That should add some serious # to the amount of holes a guy can cut on a battery. I was using an 8in nils when cutting my holes.
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You should get close to that with two batteries if they are 4amp+. The big ticket item comes out in Jan I believe with Milwaukee releasing a 9amp battery. That should add some serious # to the amount of holes a guy can cut on a battery. I was using an 8in nils when cutting my holes.
Yeah I read that. The new 5ah cost 125 I can't imagine what the 9 will cost.
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The Milwaukee 18v batteries always seem to run at a consistant price of $120ish retail. I have never paid anywhere near the retail price.... It has been my experience that new 4-5ah batteries can just about always be found in the $40-50ish range on Ebay or Amazon. I'm hoping this is the case with the 9ah battery as well. :tipup:
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Regarding the M18 batteries , I heard that new 6ah batteries are ready, and I suppose marketing is waiting for the right time to release. As far as the future 9ah batteries, I thought I read somewhere that they will not fit the current series of Fuel drills that use the "XC" design batteries. The 9ah is strictly for certain high power need tools…saws, etc.
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Regarding the M18 batteries , I heard that new 6ah batteries are ready, and I suppose marketing is waiting for the right time to release. As far as the future 9ah batteries, I thought I read somewhere that they will not fit the current series of Fuel drills that use the "XC" design batteries. The 9ah is strictly for certain high power need tools…saws, etc.
If this is true about the 9ah all I can say is boooooooooooooo
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Regarding the M18 batteries , I heard that new 6ah batteries are ready, and I suppose marketing is waiting for the right time to release. As far as the future 9ah batteries, I thought I read somewhere that they will not fit the current series of Fuel drills that use the "XC" design batteries. The 9ah is strictly for certain high power need tools…saws, etc.
That information is incorrect.The 6ah and 9ah Milwaukee batteries are due out in January and they will fit the Fuel line of tools. The only difference will be the 9ah pack is deeper due to the extra row of lithium cells that have been added. The 9ah pack will be the cats meow on the Clam plate/Fuel auger as its claimed that the 9ah will be able to provide twice the run time that a 5ah pack provides due to a cooler running temperature due to more cells in the pack.
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i want one :o hope they're not out of this world money wise sure would be nice to take only one battery and know you've got enough juice for the day ;D
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Is Clam sale'ing the new adaptor to convert the old one to the new style so we don't have to take our chucks off anymore? Or are we out of luck, and have to buy the new one?
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Is Clam sale'ing the new adaptor to convert the old one to the new style so we don't have to take our chucks off anymore? Or are we out of luck, and have to buy the new one?
I don't think so dude but I would be pissed if I were in your shoes.
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Call Clam and request one.... I know that one is not currently available however if enough people made them aware of this issue they may choose to make them available.
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Call Clam and request one.... I know that one is not currently available however if enough people made them aware of this issue they may choose to make them available.
Would probably be a pita conversion would be nice if they offered an exchange program where people could pay the difference then they could modify and resell but I'm sure that's wishful thinking
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I called Clam,
and had a nice curtest call. New one is totally different design, and the center part is small and would not line up or fit. Sorry, you will have to buy the new model if you don't want to take off your chuck.
Oh well, it was worth a try. I might go ahead and buy a new one, and give the old one to my ex-brother in-law. Lol
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I called Clam,
and had a nice curtest call. New one is totally different design, and the center part is small and would not line up or fit. Sorry, you will have to buy the new model if you don't want to take off your chuck.
Oh well, it was worth a try. I might go ahead and buy a new one, and give the old one to my ex-brother in-law. Lol
I would just buy a second bare tool, and leave the one on the old clam plate. Cost would be about the same.
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yeah thats what i did a dedicated drill for my old style clam plate second bare tool for summer time drilling i like the fact it's not possible to round of that shank on my old style
I would just buy a second bare tool, and leave the one on the old clam plate. Cost would be about the same.
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I would just buy a second bare tool, and leave the one on the old clam plate. Cost would be about the same.
Not sure if that's true on a milwaukee 18v though.
Edit: especially with batteries
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Call Clam and request one.... I know that one is not currently available however if enough people made them aware of this issue they may choose to make them available.
Hey your mail box is full. Did you have any luck getting the shaft for the old clam plate drilled and tapped for the new 1200in/lb milwaukee
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Call Clam and request one.... I know that one is not currently available however if enough people made them aware of this issue they may choose to make them available.
Being made over there, getting parts would be sometime mid-next-year. And I'm sure Clam is not that interested in selling us a $10 part that will eliminate the need for us to buy a new model. There is also the taller plate that the drill clamps to.
Repeating myself, I think some will have issues with the new shaft as the material will need to be of better quality and heat-treatment. I'm guessing the new Clam shaft will give some users problems much like the Nils cordless drill auger did this past winter.
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Hey your mail box is full. Did you have any luck getting the shaft for the old clam plate drilled and tapped for the new 1200in/lb milwaukee
Sorry about the mailbox being full... i guess my militia membership ran out??? I kinda thought I would get a notice when it was time to renew. The I haven't gotten my auger adapter back yet hopefully this week it will show up.
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Sorry about the mailbox being full... i guess my militia membership ran out??? I kinda thought I would get a notice when it was time to renew. The I haven't gotten my auger adapter back yet hopefully this week it will show up.
Got your message your box is still full
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I paid it tonite... Hard telling how long it will take to get my mailbox back.
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Has anyone seen any videos of a clam plate paired with a 6" or 8" k-drill??
luva
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I removed the retaining bolt and chuck from the new Milwaukee drill tonite. I didn't think it was much tougher to get off than the 725 in/lb model was. There is a rumor that my 9/16-18 threaded adapter will be in my hands tomorrow...
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I removed the retaining bolt and chuck from the new Milwaukee drill tonite. I didn't think it was much tougher to get off than the 725 in/lb model was. There is a rumor that my 9/16-18 threaded adapter will be in my hands tomorrow...
Sounds good. Are you adapting to last years Clam Plate?
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Yeah... I have a Machinist working on it... He has it a couple weeks and I should have it back tomorrow. I'm pretty excited to get it put together.
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Not sure if that's true on a milwaukee 18v though.
Edit: especially with batteries
i
why would you buy more batteries? You'd already have the ones for the drill on the plate.
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While I was at the VA hospital (getting what I hope is the last chunk of shrapnel cut out from Afghanistan?), a idea came to me. So today I bought a 1/2" fine thread harden bolt 2 1/2" long. I took my drill off, and tighten the bolt in and loosen up the side plate. I then cut the head off the bolt and ground 4 flat sides on it, then screwed down my 19.2 volt hammer drill with a 4 ah battery, and tightened the side plate, and used some velcro to hold the drill. I had to move the trigger plate out a inch, and away 1/4" and drilled a new bolt whole for the trigger paddle. Works great in the air, and I can get my drill off quick. Cant wait for ice to see how it works this winter, or if I need to buy a new Clam plate? Lol
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yup. I did the same thing last year. Worked great!
Thank you sir for your service.
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The adapters and plates are still throwing me off.
If I buy the M18 and a lazer, I'd like to try it witout the clam plate first. What adapter would I buy to use these 2 together?
It sounds like a lot of you guys will recommend buying the Clam plate, but I'm thick and I'd like to try drilling holes with just the side handle on the drill first.
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Hold the drill lightly in case the auger binds in the hole. Otherwise it will damage you wrist.
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Am I hearing correct that even with a Clam plate, the new 1200# torque Milwaukee can still be a handful occasionally if the auger bites ? That you still better hang on tight.
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solid advice gents.
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The adapters and plates are still throwing me off.
If I buy the M18 and a lazer, I'd like to try it witout the clam plate first. What adapter would I buy to use these 2 together?
Ice Master auger adapter
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Am I hearing correct that even with a Clam plate, the new 1200# torque Milwaukee can still be a handful occasionally if the auger bites ? That you still better hang on tight.
The current Gen 1 M18 Fuel drill already is a hand full when it bites. Best be ready when that happens or you will be thrown and shook like a rag doll on the ice.
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The adapters and plates are still throwing me off.
If I buy the M18 and a lazer, I'd like to try it witout the clam plate first. What adapter would I buy to use these 2 together?
It sounds like a lot of you guys will recommend buying the Clam plate, but I'm thick and I'd like to try drilling holes with just the side handle on the drill first.
Although I can't speak for your exact drill/auger combo (I use a 6" Mora and a Dewalt 18v drill) I drill without the plate with no issues. I forgot my drill handle the first time I used it and it drilled so easy I didn't bother putting it on. I used it all of last season. I can't remember what adapter I bought but I think they're one size fits most.
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I have used that same combination but found that sometimes the auger jams. When that happens the drill gets wrenched from my hands and if I'm not careful my hand/wrist gets wrenched and injured too. I think the Clam plate would at least partially protect from that type of hazard.
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I went to check on the battery prices at Home Depot. They had the Ridgid 4amp batteries still listed at $99 a piece.... or... I could by a set of 2 4amp batteries for $99!!! Tough choice, I bought a pair.
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Am I correct in saying we need to go from a 1/2"-20 female to a 9/16"-18? If so there is plenty of material, as the tap drill is 1/2 to 33/64". Piece of cake. Just getting back on the site, guess I have some catching up to do. Don't throw away the old clam plates, they can be modified for sure. ;)
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The current Gen 1 M18 Fuel drill already is a hand full when it bites. Best be ready when that happens or you will be thrown and shook like a rag doll on the ice.
I just got the 1200# model in today. I will post a review after I have a chance to try it out.
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Am I correct in saying we need to go from a 1/2"-20 female to a 9/16"-18? If so there is plenty of material, as the tap drill is 1/2 to 33/64". Piece of cake. Just getting back on the site, guess I have some catching up to do. Don't throw away the old clam plates, they can be modified for sure. ;)
You do need to take .120 " off the end of the clam adapter or the LH screw will not engage properly and drill thru .328 (21/64) clearance for the new
8mm LH thd. chuck screw.
ALSO bore and thread 9/16-18. If you drill and tap, the new thread will not run concentric with the 1' diameter which fits inside the bearing.
Not running concentric will cause the auger to spin in a larger circle and rob cutting power from your drill/auger.
Nullum Gratuitum Prandium
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Ok guys been out of ice fishing for a long time. 63 years old and this clam plate and this forum caught my eye, first post. I have a milwaukee 18v fuel already. Would a Srikemaster lazer 7" work or is there something else in 7" that would work better? Would really like to go bigger than 6". Glad I found this forum!!!
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Ok guys been out of ice fishing for a long time. 63 years old and this clam plate and this forum caught my eye, first post. I have a milwaukee 18v fuel already. Would a Srikemaster lazer 7" work or is there something else in 7" that would work better? Would really like to go bigger than 6". Glad I found this forum!!!
I believe Clam recommends a 6 inch or less drill unit .Also the Lazers tend to "bite " at the bottom of the hole .
I would love to see pictures of the "newly homemade adapters " for the older Clam plate design.
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Ok guys been out of ice fishing for a long time. 63 years old and this clam plate and this forum caught my eye, first post. I have a milwaukee 18v fuel already. Would a Srikemaster lazer 7" work or is there something else in 7" that would work better? Would really like to go bigger than 6". Glad I found this forum!!!
If it is the brushless fuel with 725in/lbs or more you can run a 7in lazer. I started with a 7in Eskimo shaver last year, converted that to a 7in lazer, then went to an 8in blue nils with a red cutting heat. Unit cut fine with all of them.
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Did you get more holes with the 7" lazer or the Nils?
Thanks for the fast responses guys.
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Did you get more holes with the 7" lazer or the Nils?
Thanks for the fast responses guys.
Can't really tell you for sure. We just kinda fished and moved around. My guess is I would get somewhere around 25-30holes on 2 foot of ice. With a 4amp battery. I always had a spare battery in a soft pack cooler, but never needed it. I personally think the 8in nils cuts easier then the 7in lazer plus it doesn't catch on the hole when breaking through the bottom. Both work fine. Just make sure the drill is set correctly.
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One more question. How deep can you drill with a blue Nils without extension?
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One more question. How deep can you drill with a blue Nils without extension?
50in until you would be at the top end of the auger shaft.
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Does the 7" lazer hang up on the bottom? Thinking of going 7" mora read they don't hang up like a lazer. Worried the 8" nils is to much for the drill. Maybe could drill more holes with a 7" also.
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Does the 7" lazer hang up on the bottom? Thinking of going 7" mora read they don't hang up like a lazer. Worried the 8" nils is to much for the drill. Maybe could drill more holes with a 7" also.
8" Nils will be less on your drill than a 7" Mora
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I haven't used it yet, and I understand the reviewers on Amazon may not be the best market for reviews on a tool, but so far, the 4 reviews on the m18 Gen2 are ugly.
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I haven't used it yet, and I understand the reviewers on Amazon may not be the best market for reviews on a tool, but so far, the 4 reviews on the m18 Gen2 are ugly.
I have a m18 (2604-22) I think, 6" lazer and have had no problems, as well as 3 buddies have the same set up with the clam plate,(lazer also) and they have had no problems either! Don't know there might be a couple lemons out there!
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I bought the new clam plate no chuck removal. Having problems with the way it fits. The shaft for the auger is about .705 The opening on the auger is .750. The auger wobbles which I think would take away from battery life. Was the older plates made the same way?
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I bought the new clam plate no chuck removal. Having problems with the way it fits. The shaft for the auger is about .705 The opening on the auger is .750. The auger wobbles which I think would take away from battery life. Was the older plates made the same way?
Common issue when using different brand ice bit. Use black electrical tape and wrap around just enough on the shaft that it stops the wobble.
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Use strip of aluminum can as a shim. Cut to size and wrap around shaft.
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The bad reviews from DIY'ers and Contractors on the Gen 2 Fuel keep coming in. Are any ice fishermen using it yet, or is everyone still using the Gen1?
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The bad reviews from DIY'ers and Contractors on the Gen 2 Fuel keep coming in. Are any ice fishermen using it yet, or is everyone still using the Gen1?
For cutting ice, the 750 or 1200 both do well with not too much torque. The side handle is poorly designed for hole saws above 5" as it has enough torque to break the connection and damage the body of the drill where the handle connects. Makita side handle is a much better design and has no problem keeping up with the M18 1200. The only reason I choose to take the M18 over the Makita on ice is that I use other Milwaukee products while fishing and can keep the same battery system for everything else. Where are you reading the reviews and what problems are others having? I just ordered an M18 Super Hawg and will be using it with a 10" Nils. Should be a fun experiment...
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For cutting ice, the 750 or 1200 both do well with not too much torque. The side handle is poorly designed for hole saws above 5" as it has enough torque to break the connection and damage the body of the drill where the handle connects. Makita side handle is a much better design and has no problem keeping up with the M18 1200. The only reason I choose to take the M18 over the Makita on ice is that I use other Milwaukee products while fishing and can keep the same battery system for everything else. Where are you reading the reviews and what problems are others having? I just ordered an M18 Super Hawg and will be using it with a 10" Nils. Should be a fun experiment...
I just bought an 8" Nils, so I'm sure both the Makita or the M18 will handle it ok. I have a gift card with Amazon I'm going to use to buy this, so I don't have much choice but to spend my money there, and the Makita kit is more money than the M18. My hesitation was when a local contractor told me he returned his Gen2 Fuel because he hated the chuck on it. Then I read the reviews on Amazon and they echo'd his thoughts. I'm probably just over analyzing it and I need to pull the trigger soon....its almost time to fish.
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The chuck on mine is totally fine as far as I can tell. Was drilling on 12" of ice the other day and did close to thirty holes (8" Nils) with a 5.0. The battery only dropped one bar by the end of the day. With an 8" Nils, a 750 is great. I have lost track of which drill I am using between the two. They both do a great job with 4.0 or bigger batteries. 2.0 batteries will sometimes shut the operation down, but even they are fine in most situations. Get it and enjoy!
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I'm getting a little nervous about my newly purchased Milwaukee fuel. The first one I bought had a bad chuck on it, I thought it was just a freak occurrence. I got a bit locked in it testing it out in the basement. Had to put it in a vice to get the bit out, then it wouldn't tighten smoothly. I returned it for a new one, but haven't used it too much yet.
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I'm getting a little nervous about my newly purchased Milwaukee fuel. The first one I bought had a bad chuck on it, I thought it was just a freak occurrence. I got a bit locked in it testing it out in the basement. Had to put it in a vice to get the bit out, then it wouldn't tighten smoothly. I returned it for a new one, but haven't used it too much yet.
where did you buy it from and were they easy to return with?
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I just bought the 2nd generation Fuel drill and have it paired with the new plate. So far so good after a couple trips with less than a foot of ice. After seeing the negative reviews on the chucks I searched the internet for an aftermarket 9/16 chuck and came up empty. I'd have no problem going to a keyed chuck for all around use if the current chuck becomes a problem. If anyone sees an aftermarket chuck some place I'd appreciate a heads up as to where you found it.
I'll be sure to keep the information coming forward if I run into any issues or make any changes to the drill.
Dave
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where did you buy it from and were they easy to return with?
I got it from Home Depot, they exchanged it without incident. It was only a day old.
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I had the privilege of using my buddies on its maiden voyage. It is the Clam plate 3.0 with the 1200# Milwaukee I was drilling in 8-10 inches of hard clear ice. I had a Mora 6" and a Mora 8" the 6 cut through like hot butter. The 8 you could tell it was working to get through especially right at punch through. I will add a link of video I shot of the 6" I should of done one with the 8" on it, but I did not think of it. I would like to thy a Nills or a K-drill auger in 8" to see how they compare to my Mora. I am only 5.9 and it felt short I would recommend the adapter to make it a tad longer.
https://youtu.be/5_oMtUzlJdE (https://youtu.be/5_oMtUzlJdE)
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I just used the Milwaukee 18v Fuel with the Clam plate this last weekend. Drilled through about 6" of ice with a 7" hand auger. This was by the far the best setup i've ever had. It was so nice to not have to fire up the gas powered auger every time we wanted to move. Drilled over 50 holes and still had some left in the battery.
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I had the privilege of using my buddies on its maiden voyage. It is the Clam plate 3.0 with the 1200# Milwaukee I was drilling in 8-10 inches of hard clear ice. I had a Mora 6" and a Mora 8" the 6 cut through like hot butter. The 8 you could tell it was working to get through especially right at punch through. I will add a link of video I shot of the 6" I should of done one with the 8" on it, but I did not think of it. I would like to thy a Nills or a K-drill auger in 8" to see how they compare to my Mora. I am only 5.9 and it felt short I would recommend the adapter to make it a tad longer.
https://youtu.be/5_oMtUzlJdE (https://youtu.be/5_oMtUzlJdE)
I have the same set-up only with the 6" lazer and extension, and last year drilled thru 22" ice about 30-40 times with the temp right around zero, no warming batteries, course wouldn't hurt. These were 4ah batteries, about 2" per second, faster than most if not all gas augers with no mess!!
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Hey Shack man Shoney…
Did you get your adapters back from the machine shop? I had mine redone to 9/16". It has a very slight wobble that I'm going to deal with for my next weekend trip, but would like to get it perfect in the long run. Might need to see if Clam will sell me a few of the old style adapters and take another run at it with a different machine shop. I kind of still like the old style way with the chuck being out of play.…I just wish Milwaukee didn't change their chuck spindle size this year to 9/16".
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Hey Shack man Shoney…
Did you get your adapters back from the machine shop? I had mine redone to 9/16". It has a very slight wobble that I'm going to deal with for my next weekend trip, but would like to get it perfect in the long run. Might need to see if Clam will sell me a few of the old style adapters and take another run at it with a different machine shop. I kind of still like the old style way with the chuck being out of play.…I just wish Milwaukee didn't change their chuck spindle size this year to 9/16".
Clam is well aware of the Gen 2 Milwaukee Fuel using the 9/16 chuck spindle. And they already have 9/16 adapters available to fit the old clam plate. The adapters can be purchased for $6 by calling Clam customer service. Just mention you need the 9/16 adapter.
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Hey Shack man Shoney…
Did you get your adapters back from the machine shop? I had mine redone to 9/16". It has a very slight wobble that I'm going to deal with for my next weekend trip, but would like to get it perfect in the long run. Might need to see if Clam will sell me a few of the old style adapters and take another run at it with a different machine shop. I kind of still like the old style way with the chuck being out of play.…I just wish Milwaukee didn't change their chuck spindle size this year to 9/16".
I did get it back and got it all assembled. I went out to check ice on a pond here in central Iowa this afternoon and drilled a few holes.... This new Milwaukee 1200 in\lb drill is AWESOME!!!!! I did not drill for maximum number of holes but the speed is unbelievable and the chips were flying 4-5 feet from the hole. I had my own adapter modified but its going to be easier and cheaper to get one from Clam if they are making them available... I'm VERY happy with the maiden voyage of this setup.
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I did get it back and got it all assembled. I went out to check ice on a pond here in central Iowa this afternoon and drilled a few holes.... This new Milwaukee 1200 in\lb drill is AWESOME!!!!! I did not drill for maximum number of holes but the speed is unbelievable and the chips were flying 4-5 feet from the hole. I had my own adapter modified but its going to be easier and cheaper to get one from Clam if they are making them available... I'm VERY happy with the maiden voyage of this setup.
Are you using the new clam plate, the one you don't have to take chuck off??
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Not sure if this was posted on here already but didn't see it after looking at multiple pages. Will an 8 inch nils blue hand auger fit the new clam plate?
Thank you
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Are you using the new clam plate, the one you don't have to take chuck off??
No I converted my old style plate to fit the new drill.
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Has anyone taken the nils collar and drilled it out to 9/16? I just had mine done for the gen 2 and am interested to hear if anyone has tried it. Hoping to use it with an 8 in nils
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Just used my setup last weekend. The new plate, 750 lb. Milwaukee and 7" mora. Worked great, drilled about 35 holes on 4" of ice. Still had 3 bars left. Never kept the battery warm but was 30 outside.
Later, Daman
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You need an adapter for the Clam plate to Nils.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clam-Plate-Adapter-to-Nils-Ice-Auger-/291602784755?hash=item43e4e161f3:g:OcIAAOSwv0tU9krk
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Just a note to anyone thinking about the Nils to Clam adapter on eBay. I got mine in the mail today and the fit is awesome! No wobble at all. I ordered the longer adapter than will fit both the blue and orange Nils...you need to accommodate the hex extension on the orange one...and now with the Milwaukee Gen2 and two batteries, I'm good to go. Two thumbs up!
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Took my Gen2 Fuel and 8" Blue Nils out this weekend for the maiden voyage. So far I've drilled 44 holes through ice that was between 4" and 9" thick and my battery gauge on the 4.0 battery is at half. I didn't use teh clam plate, and maybe at the end of the winter I'll feel differently about the setup. But as of right now, if you're someone thats on the edge and can't decide if this is a good way to go....it is...
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Had my DeWalt 995/StrikeMaster 6" Lazer combo with old style plate out several days ago...I was impressed.. even with the China blades ...I had this same set up out last year with a Dewalt 771 (burnt that up)..its seem not to be such/same problem grabbing the last bit of ice ...but only drilling 6" of ice ..so more testing is in order ...I must thank all of you IS members who posted their experiences with their preferred drill/auger/plate combos as it did help me immensely on my decision making . :flex:
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Bought the new clam plate and put my porter cable 20v drill into it with an Eskimo 8" blade. Works great! Myself and 7 other buddies went fishing for 3 days. 4"-10" of ice with 5 holes each for all of us. And we moved traps often. Only drained one battery and partially on another each day out. All my buddies laughed at me when I pulled it out. But after I drilled my holes they all took a try and they parked their gas augers. Left them at camp all weekend and now they all want one! I was skeptical when I first got the drill plate, but wow they work awesome and at a fraction of the cost and weight
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I just got an auger conversion kit not the clam plate. Had one ordered but it was taking too long so I spent around $15 for the kit. I use it with my 8" fin bore with 18v milwaukee Gen 1 with 4ah battery. Drilled through about 15 holes of 4 inch ice leaving the battery outside all day in freezing Temps and I had 3/4 charge when I left. So far this setup is all I need but I'll see how it works with thicker ice.
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I just got an auger conversion kit not the clam plate. Had one ordered but it was taking to long so I spent around $15 for the kit. I use it with my 8" fin bore with 18v milwaukee Gen 1 with 4ah battery. Drilled through about 15 holes of 4 inch ice leaving the battery outside all day in freezing Temps and I had 3/4 charge when I left. So far this setup is all I need but I'll see how it works with thicker ice.
You will be surprised, the cold has very little if any effect on the Milwaukee batteries!!
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Damn Yankee........
Why do you say a person needs to take off .120 from the end of the adapter? My modified 9/16" thread version seems to allow the chuck retaining screw to bite. Is it just to allow a few more threads to grab?
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Just bought the new 1200 in. lbs. torque Milwaukee fuel with 5.0 battery for my Clam plate. I took out a 5" mora and a 7" lazer to test. The 5" worked like butter at slow and fasts speeds. The 7" lazer cut just as well but had problems on breakthrough...it would get stuck and that Milwaukee is super strong, had to be careful on the wrists. Might try a 6" mora as the standard. I drilled 25 holes with the 5" and 15 with the 7" and I still had 75% of the battery life left. Ice was 12" and fairly soft.
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Bare tool 2704 M18 (1200#) is less than $100. But my 2604 (725#) works great, no need to replace it. (6" lazer, clam plate w extension).
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Are you guys running the 1200# M18 at the low speed or high speed? Took my M18 and 7" Lazer bit out for a test run the other day. We have 17" of ice and that thing went through it like butter. 3 holes in 22 seconds on the low speed so I guess I probably won't even need to use it on high.
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Are you guys running the 1200# M18 at the low speed or high speed? Took my M18 and 7" Lazer bit out for a test run the other day. We have 17" of ice and that thing went through it like butter. 3 holes in 22 seconds on the low speed so I guess I probably won't even need to use it on high.
Always run on low speed!
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#1 gear.
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Low speed for me. Its easier on the drill and still unbelievable fast and easy.
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the low speed has more torque.
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Drill mode ...low speed
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Pointerguy, Thanks for the great review. This is an awesome set up. Did my homework and found a cordless drill that best fit my needs for torque and battery life. A clam auger plate that you don't need to remove the drill chuck. Had an old 6" mora/ eskimo foldable off set handle auger. The auger stem and the adaptor on the drill plate OD's are very close. So machining an extension to connect the two was fairly easy. Now I have an auger that is fast, light weight and easy to use. Thanks again.
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Just converted my 18 v 3amp Dewalt into my fishing gear. Added the clam auger plate. I use a 6" auger. Took it out yesterday and worked flawlessly in 12 inch ice. I'am very happy with it. A very cheap mod as all I had to do was buy the clam plate.
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Does anyone have any experience with a Bosch drill? It's the brushless DDS-182-02. The thing that worries me is it's only listed around 442ish in-lbs. Reason I ask is because I was able to get one for cheap and was thinking about pairing it with a clam plate and 7" auger.
What is the "best" 7" out there? The lazer seems very popular and for a reasonable price.
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So I took my Mora 8" and unscrewed the crank from the auger. Went to my shop and made a conversion bit. Then added a 5 inch plate with a bearing and tack welded it to the auger and attached a bungee cord to go over the drill. (just I case the chuck loosens) Then welded the bit
to the auger. Went out on the ice 3 deg. with Dewalt 20 volt batteries in my coat. The key to any of these augers/cordless combo are sharp blades!!! My test: semi dull blades, 8 inches of ice, 3 deg "F" Drilled 14 and a half holes battery dead.
Sharp blades, 8 inches of ice, 3 deg. Drilled 38 holes the battery had 1 bar left, but was tired of drilling. Each hole was drilled under 8 seconds. Make sure you use the "T" handle....Torque is crazy!!
Two things: sharp blades and warm batteries.
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So I took my Mora 8" and unscrewed the crank from the auger. Went to my shop and made a conversion bit. Then added a 5 inch plate with a bearing and tack welded it to the auger and attached a bungee cord to go over the drill. (just I case the chuck loosens) Then welded the bit
to the auger. Went out on the ice 3 deg. with Dewalt 20 volt batteries in my coat. The key to any of these augers/cordless combo are sharp blades!!! My test: semi dull blades, 8 inches of ice, 3 deg "F" Drilled 14 and a half holes battery dead.
Sharp blades, 8 inches of ice, 3 deg. Drilled 38 holes the battery had 1 bar left, but was tired of drilling. Each hole was drilled under 8 seconds. Make sure you use the "T" handle....Torque is crazy!!
Two things: sharp blades and warm batteries.
The Milwaukee batteries are made for "COLD" weather, you don't have to keep them "WARM" . I think they are the only company that has "perfected" the lithium batteries, so far!!
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The Milwaukee batteries are made for "COLD" weather, you don't have to keep them "WARM" . I think they are the only company that has "perfected" the lithium batteries, so far!!
I don't think you can make a claim like that. I have 2 of the ridgid 4ah batteries. On a 6" HT auger. I took them out last weekend for a test. -2 degrees with constant 30-50 mph wind gusts. I was there all day and left the drill out in the cold to see how the batteries would be effected. Drilled 15 holes. When I packed up for the drag back to the truck I still had 4 bars. Didn't even need the 2nd battery.
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Wind chill has nothing to do with batteries, look for threads about Milwaukee batteries and see for your self, not saying anything bad about yours if they work for you that's great!! 15 holes in 10" or so of ice it should almost have full charge left!!
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wind chill means nothing to inanimate objects. But windy conditions can beat up equipment. snow and moisture as well as other debris. The main thing was that I left the batteries out in the cold for the day and they weren't affected. The thing I'm saying is, you can't claim that milwaukee is the only ones that "they are the only company that has "perfected" the lithium batteries". Lithium batteries themselves handle cold alot better than the nicad batteries. Milwaukee makes great tools, no doubt about it. So does Dewault, Ridgid, Portercable and several more.
For the most part, Milwaukee and Ridgid seems to be getting the best marks.
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We have about 10 of the Milwaukee Fuel drills at work running the 4.0 batteries. They seem to be holding up well under daily heavy use.
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Any end of season deals on the clam plate?
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Any end of season deals on the clam plate?
I seen some deals on the old style plate ...for $50 bucks ...new style is full priced or sold out in most places.
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Thanks for the review! I love the math discussion-I'm a math teacher ;) I'm definitely gonna pick one up. Clean, near and easy to pull out on a sled!
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wind chill means nothing to inanimate objects.
Except that they freeze faster is all..
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no wind chill is just how the temperatures feel if it's windy. It doesn't actually change the actual temperatures. Put a glass of water out in 0 degrees with 20mph winds and it will freeze no faster than if there is no wind but it "feels" colder to an animal. that's what wind chill is. It's how it feels to an animal, including us. Doesn't change the fact that it's only 0 degrees. Inanimate objects don't freeze faster because of it. Now ice, snow and moisture blowing into electrical components is another thing altogether.
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Put a glass of water out in 0 degrees with 20mph winds and it will freeze no faster than if there is no wind
I will have to disagree...
It will not get colder than 0, but it will certainly freeze faster..
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Yup---for sure!!
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no wind chill is just how the temperatures feel if it's windy. It doesn't actually change the actual temperatures. Put a glass of water out in 0 degrees with 20mph winds and it will freeze no faster than if there is no wind but it "feels" colder to an animal. that's what wind chill is. It's how it feels to an animal, including us. Doesn't change the fact that it's only 0 degrees. Inanimate objects don't freeze faster because of it. Now ice, snow and moisture blowing into electrical components is another thing altogether.
LOL. Wind chill might not "change" the actual temp. However when you have wind things will definitely freeze faster. Reason being is the wind will pull the core heat away from something faster. (Speed the mixing and averaging process of tempatures) an example is like dumping sugar into a kool aid mixture, stirring it speeds the process of dissolving the sugar into the water.....the wind is the stirring process that speeds up the temp change/shift.
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yeah... ok, but that works with kool aid and water. Not batteries. If the battery is 0 degrees, it isn't gonna get colder than 0 degrees just cuz it's windy. Wind chill isn't going to affect batteries or other inanimate objects. You guys are comparing apples to screwdrivers. They ain't the same things. Remember, we're talking about cordless drills here.
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yeah... ok, but that works with kool aid and water. Not batteries. If the battery is 0 degrees, it isn't gonna get colder than 0 degrees just cuz it's windy. Wind chill isn't going to affect batteries or other inanimate objects. You guys are comparing apples to screwdrivers. They ain't the same things. Remember, we're talking about cordless drills here.
I think your are clueless and need to educate yourself. Nobody said that wind chill could cause a lower temp then what the temp is. What we are saying is it changes the speed at which an object cools/freezes. Wind chill is basicly a word reference to reflect the increases heat loss of an object due to the effects of wind carrying away heat faster from the object. So living, inanimate, or whatever an object is the effects of wind removing heat faster from an object is fact.
So an example is if the tempature was 32*f out-freezing and you had a wind chill of -5*f. What it means is that due to the wind helping remove heat from an object faster it will cool faster. It will cool the item at a speed of cooling considerable to where the outside temp was -5*f with no wind.
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I'll try to bring this full circle. if you are fishing with a cordless drill auger set up, my advice would be:
1. if it is snowing and/or blowing, I would not leave the drill exposed. Doesn't matter what brand you have, snow inside the drill is not a good thing. Either bring it inside or cover the drill.
2. Taking the battery off/putting it back on most cordless drills takes less than 2 seconds. If it is nasty outside, it is worth pulling the battery off if you are going to stay in one spot for a while.
In talking with the guys at Clam at the ice show this past weekend, they hinted that they will have a drill cover available next season.
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In talking with the guys at Clam at the ice show this past weekend, they hinted that they will have a drill cover available next season.
Probably look a lot like this.... ;D
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=333613.msg3534042#msg3534042
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I use a Meijer plastic bag, just tie loose knot never had a problem. My Milwaukee has never had the battery r moved to keep it "warm"!!!
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just gonna say this last thing then I'm not gonna waste time any more.
No, you are clueless. Wind chill has nothing to do with how wind causes anything to freeze faster. You are making up definitions to suit your own purpose.
Wind-chill or windchill, (popularly wind chill factor) is the perceived decrease in air temperature felt by the body on exposed skin due to the flow of air.
take your own advise and educate yourself.
done.
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just gonna say this last thing then I'm not gonna waste time any more.
No, you are clueless. Wind chill has nothing to do with how wind causes anything to freeze faster. You are making up definitions to suit your own purpose.
Wind-chill or windchill, (popularly wind chill factor) is the perceived decrease in air temperature felt by the body on exposed skin due to the flow of air.
take your own advise and educate yourself.
done.
So your oatmeal on your spoon won't cool down faster when you blow on it either I guess...
Might as well throw out my fans to, they don't cool me down any faster either...
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just gonna say this last thing then I'm not gonna waste time any more.
No, you are clueless. Wind chill has nothing to do with how wind causes anything to freeze faster. You are making up definitions to suit your own purpose.
Wind-chill or windchill, (popularly wind chill factor) is the perceived decrease in air temperature felt by the body on exposed skin due to the flow of air.
take your own advise and educate yourself.
done.
The only one wasting time, is you arguing an undefendable point. While it is a bit different for inanimate objects or other things since they don't create heat like the human body, there is still a cooling factor which is even faster if the object doesn't create heat. Don't believe me here is a quote on it.
wind chill, the cooling effect of wind and temperature combined, expressed in terms of the effect produced by a lower, windless temperature, also called wind chill factor, wind chill temperature, wind chill equivalent temperature, wind chill index, wind chill equivalent index, and wind chill temperature index. Wind chill is based on the rate of heat loss from exposed skin. Under windless conditions air provides an invisible blanket around the skin. As wind speed increases, this layer of heated air is carried away from the body at an accelerated rate, forcing the body either to work harder to generate more heat or cool down. If the actual air temperature is −5°F;(−21°C;) with a 20 mph (32 km/hr) wind, the wind chill temperature is −29°F;(−34°C;). Because wind chill is based the removal of heat from the human body, it does not reflect the increased rate of heat loss for inanimate objects such as automobile radiators under the same conditions but they also experience a faster heat loss with increasing winds.
Wow....so if an object doesn't produce heat like the human body, it actually experiences heat loss even faster!
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HANG ON!!!!! Im popping popcorn now.....
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HANG ON!!!!! Im popping popcorn now.....
SERIOUSLY, GUYS.
No one else cares who got the better grade in Chem 102.
This thread is about drills and augers.
I just picked up a brushless DeWalt drill from Home Depot $119.
Their '7-series'... (DCD777)
Also picked up a 2-pack of 3 amp/HR batteries.
The drill I bought puts out 300 UNit Watts Out (UWO).
The XR version shoves 360 UWO (http://www.dewalt.com/dewalt-dna/featured-articles/what-torque-really-means)
I'll be using a 7" Mora auger.
So, think it's enough oomph for Minnesota ice ;)
Thanks in advance.
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You are a little low on torque and battery. You will need to keep your battery packs warm to get the most out of your batteries, which have a marginal amp hour rating at best, to adequately run a 7" Mora. It really comes down to what is going to make YOU happy, if you don't mind a 5" or 6" hole it would be much better suited to your Dewalt drill and 3ah batteries. I'm also not too sure the plastic chuck that comes on the DCD777 will be ideal if your planning on using the newer style clam plate that does not require you to remove the chuck??? This drill is Dewalts entry level drill.... But like I always say if you already own it then you might as well give it a try and post the results...
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Burnt up my Dewalt 771 ...now have a 995 brushless hammer SM 6" lazer w/Clam Plate ..
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A smaller drill might work well with the clam plate and the optional gear box.. It doubles the torque with a 2 to 1 ratio..
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just out of curiosity why are you running a clam plate as the drill is turning a 6" sm and u have plenty of power. worried about the break thru and some torque of the wrist problems. i am just going to run a ridgid and have a 7" sm hand auger and also a 6" sm hand auger and was wondering if the 7" might be too much for the drill.
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I know w/o the plate my 6" SM Lazer would bind at times at the bottom ...not fun ..the plate offers better stability . Clam recommends 700 in lbs drill and 6" auger ...other IS members have used some 7 in with success ...Clams new add on gear box for gen 3 and 4 (no chuck removal) will allow for 8 in auger drill unit
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gotcha. i was afraid of that. i tested the big fuel drill with my 7" last year and it did bind at the bottom of the ice sometimes but as i am 250 and only five foot 8 inches i have a low center of gravity and put the drill on my hip and put no down pressure on the auger and let it do the work. might look into the clam plate more. thanks for the feedback.
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Looks like our neighbors to the North have figured a way to adapt the Clam Gear Box to a Gen 1&2 Clam Plate .
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Looks like our neighbors to the North have figured a way to adapt the Clam Gear Box to a Gen 1&2 Clam Plate .
Looks good to me..
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I figured that was coming.....
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I still think it needs some more R&D from our IS members ...but it could be as simple as that video ..wish I could get a hold of a gear box for some hands on fiddling .
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I still think it needs some more R&D from our IS members ...but it could be as simple as that video ..wish I could get a hold of a gear box for some hands on fiddling .
(http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp207/Squareneck/IMG_20161014_195635_zpsie9dymdp.jpg)
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Looks like our neighbors to the North have figured a way to adapt the Clam Gear Box to a Gen 1&2 Clam Plate .
Now for sale on ebay....,the aluminum block to covert the older clam plates.........$29.99.
lol
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(http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp207/Squareneck/IMG_20161014_195635_zpsie9dymdp.jpg)
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Thanks ...any secret math on getting the gear box to open apart ...is it sealed up shut or just bolted together.
So am I getting this right ...on the Gen 4 Plate ..your unbolting what off the plate and totally replacing that with the new gear box ? Pic of bottom of Gen 4 clam Plate would be helpful.
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Now for sale on ebay....,the aluminum block to covert the older clam plates.........$29.99.
lol
Any link to that ?
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Any link to that ?
No was just joking.
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No was just joking.
Got me on that one :roflmao:.
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I'm sure something will come up eventually. might cost about has much has a new plate and gear box though by the time you buy a block and gear box.
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Thanks ...any secret math on getting the gear box to open apart ...is it sealed up shut or just bolted together.
So am I getting this right ...on the Gen 4 Plate ..your unbolting what off the plate and totally replacing that with the new gear box ? Pic of bottom of Gen 4 clam Plate would be helpful.
No secret, three bolts is all... Once it's mounted on the plate, there are 4 more bolts that run through it...
There are more pictures here...
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=333835.msg3536972#msg3536972
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I have the 2nd generation clam plate (dipped handles). The gearbox conversion looks simple enough. You will be ditching the big bearing they came with, just hope the bearing bronze bushings on the gearbox hold up, easy enough to replace if needed. I might have to order a gearbox and try my own conversion.
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Waiting on the real world ice conditions review of the Clam Gear Box...
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Waiting on the real world ice conditions review of the Clam Gear Box...
Agreed, Scratcher we're waiting for your review. Can you get access to hockey rink? LOL
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Can you get access to hockey rink? LOL
I know I could once, only once.. lol
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Hello, question about the drill.
Will 500lbs torque be sufficient to drill?
To prepare for the cold season, I was looking at Milwaukee M18 2606 drill on sale for this purpose.
I usually dig less than 10 holes per day.
Thank you all for your advice.
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Hello, question about the drill.
Will 500lbs torque be sufficient to drill?
To prepare for the cold season, I was looking at Milwaukee M18 2606 drill on sale for this purpose.
I usually dig less than 10 holes per day.
Thank you all for your advice.
With the gear box, 500lbs = 1000lbs
Sounds like it would work..
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Hello, question about the drill.
Will 500lbs torque be sufficient to drill?
To prepare for the cold season, I was looking at Milwaukee M18 2606 drill on sale for this purpose.
I usually dig less than 10 holes per day.
Thank you all for your advice.
what size auger?
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what size auger?
Right, that's an important factor...
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what size auger?
I have finbor 8inch
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Keep in mind that if your fin-bore has a folding handle you are going to have to get some kind of adapter to use it with a drill.
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Ok for the guy who posted this . You are using a Rigid drill . Nice warrenty only 580 lbs of torque. They will not tell you that on any of there disriptions. The milwakee 18v Fuel is the drill to use over 1080 lbs torque 500lbs more and you can get a 9ah battery :) For all you guys talking about this convertion to slow the drill down this drill does that for you with speed options . This bad boy drills 60 holes 8 inches of ic With 8 inch Mora and weighs just under 16 lbs .The only other 2 drills with over 1000 lbs torque are makita and Hilti. Neither have speed options or 9Ah batteries . Good luck and good fishing!!
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the ridgid x-4 hyper-lithium-ion hammer drill has 650 in/lbs of torque... says so in the first sentence of the description. The gen5x drill has 780 in/lbs of torque, says so in the description also. The brushless compact has 700 in/lbs. It's in the description also. I have an older Ridgid 18v fuego compact. It's got only 525 in/lbs and I use it to cut 6" holes without a problem.
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makita and Hilti. Neither have speed options
I'm not going to look but I'll bet you they do.. All modern drills do... Some have 3...
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I believe the hilti does and with that first gear and the clam gear reduction I think 8" is now going to be is as easy as the 6".i prefer a 8" hole to fish out of and drill allot most days .but do like the pros of the drill setup.might be time to pull the trigger ;D
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(http://i.imgur.com/pRXeKlgl.jpg)
So I thought I'd give a quick review on my new drill on the Clam Drill Plate. 2 years ago I bought the plate and had the cheap $99 Dewalt 20v drill on it. It worked okish. Then last year I picked up a 20v brushless XT set by Dewalt. Figuring that the new drill would be much better. Freaking sucks. Now I'm in a pickle because I don't need a hammer drill and I can buy an OK gas auger for the same price as one. Well I work at Lowe's and got a smoking deal on a display Koblat 24v drill. It has 650lbs of torque and thought heck I'd give it a try. HOLY FREAKING WAH does this thing cut through the ice! I drilled around 60 holes (I like moving around a lot) and it used one bar of life on the 4amp hr battery that I bought. It didn't even slow down when it started cutting. Taking the chuck off was super easy. For $150 (normal price) this thing is (in my opinion) the best deal you can get for the plate. Plus it matches my 6" Mora auger and the plate ;D.
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(http://i.imgur.com/pRXeKlgl.jpg)
So I thought I'd give a quick review on my new drill on the Clam Drill Plate. 2 years ago I bought the plate and had the cheap $99 Dewalt 20v drill on it. It worked okish. Then last year I picked up a 20v brushless XT set by Dewalt. Figuring that the new drill would be much better. Freaking sucks. Now I'm in a pickle because I don't need a hammer drill and I can buy an OK gas auger for the same price as one. Well I work at Lowe's and got a smoking deal on a display 24v drill. It has 650lbs of torque and thought heck I'd give it a try. HOLY FREAKING WAH does this thing cut through the ice! I drilled around 60 holes (I like moving around a lot) and it used one bar of life on the 4amp hr battery that I bought. It didn't even slow down when it started cutting. Taking the chuck off was super easy. For $150 (normal price) this thing is (in my opinion) the best deal you can get for the plate. Plus it matches my 6" Mora auger and the plate ;D.
. Seemed you should have learned from your first dewalt, but that's why they sell all kinds. Should have bought the Milwaukee then your problems would have been over!!
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(http://i.imgur.com/pRXeKlgl.jpg)
So I thought I'd give a quick review on my new drill on the Clam Drill Plate. 2 years ago I bought the plate and had the cheap $99 Dewalt 20v drill on it. It worked okish. Then last year I picked up a 20v brushless XT set by Dewalt. Figuring that the new drill would be much better. Freaking sucks. Now I'm in a pickle because I don't need a hammer drill and I can buy an OK gas auger for the same price as one. Well I work at Lowe's and got a smoking deal on a display Koblat 24v drill. It has 650lbs of torque and thought heck I'd give it a try. HOLY FREAKING WAH does this thing cut through the ice! I drilled around 60 holes (I like moving around a lot) and it used one bar of life on the 4amp hr battery that I bought. It didn't even slow down when it started cutting. Taking the chuck off was super easy. For $150 (normal price) this thing is (in my opinion) the best deal you can get for the plate. Plus it matches my 6" Mora auger and the plate ;D.
You pretty much said it in a nut shell here. Buy a good quality drill that can handle an auger. I can't say enough good about drill setups.
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Looking into getting a clam plate I have a dewalt DCD790 and will be putting a 6" lazer on it will this drill work or is it under powered. I have the 4ah battery for it also.
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Get a drill with 750in/lbs minimum, will they all work? Yes, how good u want it to work that's why should search the subject. I don't think that drill has the 750 mentioned I could be wrong though.
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Dewalt doesn't say what in/lbs that drill has so not sure what it has. Was hopeing someone has used that drill and would let me know how it worked.
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Looking into getting a clam plate I have a dewalt DCD790 and will be putting a 6" lazer on it will this drill work or is it under powered. I have the 4ah battery for it also.
That is the other Dewalt that I bought. It didn't work very well at all. Kept shutting off after just a few turns. Using it as a drill it was great but with my 6" mora noway.
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That is the other Dewalt that I bought. It didn't work very well at all. Kept shutting off after just a few turns. Using it as a drill it was great but with my 6" mora noway.
Thanks not what I wanted to hear but saved me some cash.
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Looking into getting a clam plate I have a dewalt DCD790 and will be putting a 6" lazer on it will this drill work or is it under powered. I have the 4ah battery for it also.
My first drill was a Dewalt 771 ...that did not last long ...I suggest since you have the batteries and charger get a bare tool in the 900 series ...I have a refurbished 995 hammer drill on a gen 2(chuck removal) plate
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt-dcd995br-20v-max-xr-cordless-brushless-drill-reconditioned-bare-tool
they look to be out of stock ...subscribe to their Email ...got mine with a $25 off coupon w/free shipping
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=20+v+max+bare+tool
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I bought a clam plate and gear reducer and a Milwaukee fuel 18 with 3 5 amp hour batteries this season. I am using my 8 inch nils on it ,and it works great !
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fuel/ 5amph battery, clam plate, 8" mora . 15 holes through 9" ice used one bar on battery. very happy, no buyers remorse at all. ;D
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I bought a clam plate and gear reducer and a Milwaukee fuel 18 with 3 5 amp hour batteries this season. I am using my 8 inch nils on it ,and it works great !
Any more info on this gear reduction?! I hear alot have issues. How is the speed? How much does the complete auger weight?
This is something I might be purchasing next year if they hold up.
Thanks
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I tried something today with my milwaukee fuel 2 clam plate and 7in lazer.
I normally use 5.0 batteries and never had an issues and whIle I dont usually drill alot of holes the battery always said full.
Today I tried a 2.0 compact battery and I couldn't finish 1 hole without it stalling. (8 in of ice.)
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A smaller drill might work well with the clam plate and the optional gear box.. It doubles the torque with a 2 to 1 ratio..
<°)))>{
I would like to reduce the gearing on my drill with the clam box. Do I have to use the clam plate?
Also what do I need to attach the box to my Nils.
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I would like to reduce the gearing on my drill with the clam box. Do I have to use the clam plate?
Also what do I need to attach the box to my Nils.
You'll need the plate, gear box, and an adapter..
<°)))>{
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I tried something today with my milwaukee fuel 2 clam plate and 7in lazer.
I normally use 5.0 batteries and never had an issues and whIle I dont usually drill alot of holes the battery always said full.
Today I tried a 2.0 compact battery and I couldn't finish 1 hole without it stalling. (8 in of ice.)
that's the missing information right there. i've said the battery has been key for amps to the motor and not just how long it will run on said battery.
they don't tell us what amp size the motor is.
you can have too big of a battery and not harm the motor because it uses what it wants from the battery and that changes as the load changes. so the 2amp self protect kicked in on that battery to safe it's self.
thanks for reporting your experiment! i did the same with a 2amp 12volt ridgid drill. i knew it was a joke, but i wanted to see what it would do being under warranty and nothing to loose. it had the same result with a 6" lazer.
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I knew it made a difference I just didn't realize how much.
I also have a 12v milwaukee fuel hammer drill with the 4.0 battery I should try it with my 5in lazer. That would be a really light setup.
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I just bought the Milwaukee Fuel 18v Hammer Drill with 5.0 batteries. As soon as I get it I plan to really test it out! See how many holes I can get out of one battery. I'll take it to our private lake down in the shallow end where nobody fishes and just drill hole after hole.
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what for buddy? Just take it fishing and drill everyones holes before Chez beats ya too it ;D
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I just bought the Milwaukee Fuel 18v Hammer Drill with 5.0 batteries. As soon as I get it I plan to really test it out! See how many holes I can get out of one battery. I'll take it to our private lake down in the shallow end where nobody fishes and just drill hole after hole.
think it'll be a looooong day for you ...looking forward to your research results.
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Well, I should have said.................. ................I will be using an 8" auger. So will be interesting to see how many holes I get.
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what for buddy? Just take it fishing and drill everyones holes before Chez beats ya too it ;D
LOL! I don't know if I can................... ...................... ......you know how Chez is with a power auger! ::)
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So I've been following this thread as I started a similar one about a month ago and was finally able to read through all 35 pages and now have some questions of my own.
After buying a Clam Conversion Kit with drill off a guy on CL about 2 weeks ago and was able to make it out once last week to give it a try. Overall it worked pretty well but often times seemed like it just stopped "shaving the ice" where the drill would keep turning but I wasn't making any process, then 90% of the time when I'd get to close to breaking through it would struggle. I was on about 6 inches of ice. The kit comes with a 6 inch Clam auger bit.
I read through all 34 pages of this topic and noticed that there were about 3 users who stated they used the same Dewalt drill I'm using, and a couple of them even said they burnt the drill up. Therefore, I'm thinking maybe the drill that came with it is a little too low on the torque? Dewalt no longer gives torque ratings instead gives a rating of UWO of 300 which from what I read is very hard to give a true comparison of torque as it's not apples to apples.
So questions are:
1) Am I possibly correct with my hunch that this drill may not be good enough for this?
2) If I do need to get a new drill I've read something about the 2nd/new generations of the Milwaukee's coming with a wrong size chuck? Is that true, and if that's the case what does a person have to do to get it to work?
3) From what a read I shouldn't have to apply any downward pressure on the plate when drilling, is that correct?
4) I also notices several references of people having a terrible time getting the chucks off their drills and that the first versions of the plate you had to remove your drill's chuck. My believe my plate is from 2015 and believe mine is the version that doesn't need the chuck removed as far as I can tell (don't judge if that's a dumb question:))
5) If getting a new drill, how critical is it that the new drill is either 1) brushless and/or 2) a hammer drill?
6) To save Money should I keep the drill and it's one 4 amp hour battery and one 3 amp hour battery and get a higher torque Dewalt bare tool? If so does anyone recommend a certain Dewalt drill?
TIA
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OK ...lets determine what drill you have ... Can you post a picture of your set up...any numbers on the drill. What Voltage.
If you already have the Dewalt batteries ...Dewalt charger ...then a refurbished Dewalt could be your answer .
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I'd check the blades first. It's used, the guy could have messed them up trying to sharpen them. Or they could be loose or nicked or on upside down or something. If it's turning and not cutting, it probably isn't the auger or drill.
Is your drill a lithium or NiCd? If it is NiCd, the batteries could be affected by the cold a lot more. Lithium stands up to cold better.
Also, uwo is different than torque as you've noted. Torque is a measurement for a unit of power, like how much muscle a thing has lift something. UWO is a measurement for energy, basically, how much energy it uses to make the muscle lift something. like comparing torque to horsepower.
Brushless is a good thing cuz the work we are putting the drill through eats up brushes. Hammer drills are nice cuz the better ones are built a bit tougher to withstand the hammering and have a slight edge on torque from what I've read.
I couldn't get the chuck off my drill and I had one of the original plates. I made a simple adapter so I didn't have to remove it.
I add a little downward pressure, but not much or it will stall my 525 in/lb ridgid drill. But I use an HT auger and some other augers might be a better choice. I was fishing with a guy the other day and he was using a drill with a Nills and said he didn't have to add any weight at all, it just sucked into the ice.
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OK ...lets determine what drill you have ... Can you post a picture of your set up...any numbers on the drill. What Voltage.
If you already have the Dewalt batteries ...Dewalt charger ...then a refurbished Dewalt could be your answer .
ugh my apologies I thought I had included that important detail.... ;) It's a Dewalt DCD771 and 20v XR Lithium Ion batteries.
I'd check the blades first. It's used, the guy could have messed them up trying to sharpen them. Or they could be loose or nicked or on upside down or something. If it's turning and not cutting, it probably isn't the auger or drill.
Is your drill a lithium or NiCd? If it is NiCd, the batteries could be affected by the cold a lot more. Lithium stands up to cold better.
Also, uwo is different than torque as you've noted. Torque is a measurement for a unit of power, like how much muscle a thing has lift something. UWO is a measurement for energy, basically, how much energy it uses to make the muscle lift something. like comparing torque to horsepower.
Brushless is a good thing cuz the work we are putting the drill through eats up brushes. Hammer drills are nice cuz the better ones are built a bit tougher to withstand the hammering and have a slight edge on torque from what I've read.
I couldn't get the chuck off my drill and I had one of the original plates. I made a simple adapter so I didn't have to remove it.
I add a little downward pressure, but not much or it will stall my 525 in/lb ridgid drill. But I use an HT auger and some other augers might be a better choice. I was fishing with a guy the other day and he was using a drill with a Nills and said he didn't have to add any weight at all, it just sucked into the ice.
As far as the blades them seem to look good but can a person really tell visually? How often does a person need to sharpen the blades? And if they were on upside down I'm assuming I wouldn't have been able to even a drill hole successfully right? And as far as it only shaving and not going down the couple times it did that wouldn't it do that more often then not?
I would add a pic but for some reason this site won't give me the option to actually browse for any files.... :(
Thanks everyone
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4 th year on my blades, still like the day I bought them. Guard on till get in ice and put in before leaving ice, dont loan to anyone and don't bang on ice to get ice/snow off!!
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jessb_55
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd985br-20v-max-cordless-lithium-ion-premium-3-speed-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd985br,default,pd.html
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd995br-20v-max-xr-cordless-lithium-ion-3-speed-1-2-in--brushless-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd995br,default,pd.html
sign up for their Email ...get a free ship code
I had the 771 ....it got burnt up ....NOW a refurbished 995 hammer w/5 amp hr batteries on Clam plate(Gen 2) with SM 6" lazer
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jessb_55
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd985br-20v-max-cordless-lithium-ion-premium-3-speed-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd985br,default,pd.html
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd995br-20v-max-xr-cordless-lithium-ion-3-speed-1-2-in--brushless-hammer-drill--bare-tool-/dewrdcd995br,default,pd.html
sign up for their Email ...get a free ship code
I had the 771 ....it got burnt up ....NOW a refurbished 995 hammer w/5 amp hr batteries on Clam plate(Gen 2) with SM 6"
----better yet: Get the DeWalt 995, AND TWO 4ah batteries for $149.
http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-dcd995m2r-20v-max-xr-cordless-lithium-ion-3-speed-1-2-in--brushless-hammer-drill-kit/dewrdcd995m2r,default,pd.html
Seriously, though; that's a RIDICULOUS PRICE for the drill and ONE battery. This is for two batteries and the charger.
FWIW:
I used my refurbished M18 Fuel Drill for the first time.
Paired with a 7" Mora on 9" of black ice (brand-new Swedish blades) -that thing shot through the ice like Poseidon himself was yanking down on the bit. 5 seconds flat, Ice chips flying everywhere! No downpressure needed, the weight of the auger, Clam plate, and drill were enough. Ice cleats are a MUST!
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Having good luck with 2 ryobi batteries, probably 40+ holes off each one
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Thanks everyone so I think I could sell my Dewalt for about $75 especially since the batteries are a 4 and a 3 amp hour. I found a guy who's selling a brand new Milwaukee set and would sell it to me for $250. Here's the set http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Hammer-Drill-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2897-22/206211756. I could also use a driver so the combo is appealing for that reason too.
Any reason this would be a dumb purchase and/or wouldn't work with the Clam plate as like I mentioned earlier I read something about some the new generation or the drill needing modifications or something?
Thanks in advance :)
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The older style Clam Plate required you to remove the chuck off the drill ...this is what I have...not sure which Clam Plate you have ...the Milwaukee set up you describe should work very well as long as it has the 4+ ah batteries .
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jESS:
For $250, that's a nice bit of kit... Those tools are very powerful, as in 'Whoa- Glad I have this Clam plate to hold on to!' powerful. Wear your ice cleats, or you're going to pull a groin staying up, or worse. Don't ask me how I know this... ;)
Enjoy your sound investment. You're going to be moving every 10 minutes now. ;)
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The older style Clam Plate required you to remove the chuck off the drill ...this is what I have...not sure which Clam Plate you have ...the Milwaukee set up you describe should work very well as long as it has the 4+ ah batteries .
Yep it comes with two 5 amp hour batteries, now if I could only get the guy (seller) to respond to me..... :(
Was really hoping to have it by the weekend to try it out as I'm thinking some good ice was made this last week!
I'll remember to not lock my knees ;)
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oh so go ahead an pull the trigger then? No reason this drill wouldn't work with the plate right?
Thanks
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oh so go ahead an pull the trigger then? No reason this drill wouldn't work with the plate right?
Thanks
Yep. No reason it wouldn't work.
When you assemble the HoleMaker, you'll have confidence that you made the right decision.
When you use the HoleMaker, you'll be glad you sprung for it. It's a beast.
Hands-down: It's the best system for making fishing holes in ice.
Ten years from now, all other systems will be considered obsolete (except hand-powered, of course!).
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If you have the kind of clam plate that requires you to remove the chuck, you will need a different adapter to replace the chuck. The threads on the newer 1200 in # model are different than the 725in # model.
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If you have the kind of clam plate that requires you to remove the chuck, you will need a different adapter to replace the chuck. The threads on the newer 1200 in # model are different than the 725in # model.
The 725"# model has a 1/2-13 thread. The 1200"# model has a 9/16-18 thread. If your clam plate has the 1/2-20 thread and you need
the 9/16-18 shaft Clam Customer Service will send you the proper shaft for $6.
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alrighty, so I picked up the drill today and just put it on. I think I got the trigger set right, etc. And I have the model that already has the chuck on it so I don't believe I needed an adapter as I believe that only pertains to the models that you had to remove the chuck for right?
A few more questions though...I noticed that there seems to be some "play" in a few spots on the unit and just want to make sure something isn't loose as I bought this used and already assembled.
Spot #1: If you hold the plate like you're going to drill and you rock it back and forth the plate moves separately from the auger bit itself, Is that normal?
Spot #2: the bolt that holds the long trigger lever to the 3inchish vertical piece? I see the locking nut on the back is not tight but I don't see any threads in the visible gap so that's why I'm hesitant to "overtighten" it?
Spot #3: of the 3 bolts that are in line on the clamping bar, I see there too that there is a gap on the front side where the phillips head is, but there too I'm wondering if that shouldn't be snug to keep the trigger from not sticking?
I would include photos but again I can't :(
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Ill be using mine this afternoon so Ill look at it and answer you back if no one else does. Il think #1 is normal, just the little bit of play at attachment of auger and shaft.
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alrighty, so I picked up the drill today and just put it on. I think I got the trigger set right, etc. And I have the model that already has the chuck on it so I don't believe I needed an adapter as I believe that only pertains to the models that you had to remove the chuck for right?
A few more questions though...I noticed that there seems to be some "play" in a few spots on the unit and just want to make sure something isn't loose as I bought this used and already assembled.
Spot #1: If you hold the plate like you're going to drill and you rock it back and forth the plate moves separately from the auger bit itself, Is that normal?
Spot #2: the bolt that holds the long trigger lever to the 3inchish vertical piece? I see the locking nut on the back is not tight but I don't see any threads in the visible gap so that's why I'm hesitant to "overtighten" it?
Spot #3: of the 3 bolts that are in line on the clamping bar, I see there too that there is a gap on the front side where the phillips head is, but there too I'm wondering if that shouldn't be snug to keep the trigger from not sticking?
I would include photos but again I can't :(
#1 yes
#2 dont overtighten anything, if nuts or screws come loose use a drop of blue loctite.
#3 everything on the drill and plate should should seem solidly mounted.... The linkage needs to be free.
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okay so I tried tightening those two bolts in question and I couldn't get either one of them to tighten anymore and I know I've been told to not overtighten them but just seems really odd that there is side to side play with both of these.
Since I bought this plate used and already assembled and after looking at the assembly instructions online it seems like the throttle trigger assembly comes partially assembled with the linkage already attached. So that would mean the one bolt I'm referring to came like that from factory.....?
I really wish I could attach pictures....:(
Anyway, looking at the manual for the 2015-2016 model at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1g5_ONgg27GVk80aW1WU2tYUE0 i'm referring to bolt 103954 having a gap between bolt head and the loop on the linkage it goes through and the 2nd bolt being the bolt that is below the bolt the lower arrow is pointing to on "Step 3 adjusting the linkage" section on the last page of the instruction.
so...am i making sense when trying to explain these and is there indeed abnormal gaps in tightness?
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jessb_55...so if I understand you correctly ...your trigger is sloppy ..meaning it has movement in the adjustment slot...up/down . Is nut threaded all the way onto the bolt ...meaning it stops at/flush to the unthreaded portion of the bolt ? If so I would add another washer near the nut ..that will give you a thread or two to tighten securely ..but allow movement for trigger.
I have the Gen2 plate ...adjusting everything took some patience and trial and error ..the trigger tends to stick if too tight ..so has to be just right ...some IS members have added a long spring to the trigger ...I may look into this on my set up ..but so far this year hasn't been that much of a big deal.
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I put a little teflon grease on the joints of the trigger actuator. I haven't had any sticking problems since (2 yrs).
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On my Gen 2 plate ... bolt through trigger mechanism ...then a washer...then stand up bracket...washer...nut . The instructions for that year was vague at best ...I recall playing with the trigger mechanism on several occasions before the above assembly was implemented .
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You have explained pretty well to anyone who has a clam plate!!! One of the bolts on the trigger is not adjustable but seemed loose to me. The other two adjusted. I put a rubber band around the trigger and handle to keep it "in place". It doesn't go anywhere, just keeps it where it is at the ready. Great set up... a few little tweeks and it is solid!!!
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Alright, thanks everyone I guess I'll leave as is!
One last question dose the trigger assembly come assembled because if that's the case then one of the bolts I'm referring to came assembled loose or at least in my opinion.
pretty happy with the setup otherwise other than the occasional instances where it seems like the auger just keeps turning, maybe slightly shaving, but not really making headway with making a whole but I might pick up some new blades to see if that does the trick.
The Milwaukee hammer drill I picked up last weekend on this auger is night and day compared to the entry level Dewalt I was using!
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Alright, thanks everyone I guess I'll leave as is!
One last question dose the trigger assembly come assembled because if that's the case then one of the bolts I'm referring to came assembled loose or at least in my opinion.
pretty happy with the setup otherwise other than the occasional instances where it seems like the auger just keeps turning, maybe slightly shaving, but not really making headway with making a whole but I might pick up some new blades to see if that does the trick.
The Milwaukee hammer drill I picked up last weekend on this auger is night and day compared to the entry level Dewalt I was using!
Its probably the blades, my blades are relatively sharp and the thing rips through the ice. I don't think it took longer than 10 seconds or so to get through 20 inches of ice. One of the bolts on the trigger mechanism IS loose, but I think it is designed to be so... Mine is the bottom bolt where it actually attaches to the handle you pull. I tried to remove it to tighten and it wouldn't even budge. So... it is going to stay that way, if I can't get it off with tools, I don't see it working its way loose on its own. Lastly, my entry level Dewalt I intended on using not only has a "brush" style motor and would have eventually likely burnt itself up over time with this application, my high end new Dewalt is brushless and feels way more sturdy. The cheap drill has a loose housing and is extremely light. I now realize that even though I stayed with Dewalt, there is a very clear contractor grade and average joe grade.
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Welp, I put some new blades on and seems better but still occasionally the thing will spin in one spot for 30 seconds or so. I try to clean out the shavings to see if that's the case but doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Do I need to rock the auger side to side at all to get the blades/auger bit gripping again?
Otherwise when it cut, it cuts super nice!
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Little downward pressure works for me ...especially on this bare ice we have been having this season.
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Welp, I put some new blades on and seems better but still occasionally the thing will spin in one spot for 30 seconds or so. I try to clean out the shavings to see if that's the case but doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Do I need to rock the auger side to side at all to get the blades/auger bit gripping again?
Otherwise when it cut, it cuts super nice!
I'm no expert, but no hole has ever taken me thirty seconds from start to finish to drill. I think maybe your auger has been dropped or banged out of whack just a bit. Maybe start looking for a new bit.
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I recently consulted this forum before makeing a purchase and I am sad to say I choose Makita. I have always loved the company and before this would have highly recomend there products. I used a milwakee lithium full sized brushed motor drill a long time ago to drill 8" holes. That had enough torque at 550ft-lb rated, but I used a gas auger instead. Fast forward to this year I bought a new makita drill. The one with 1090 ft-lb and the 4ah batterys. I had the midsize drill with 3ah batterys but I wanted the extra oumph, so I bought the new set. Fist outing out it was like -5F and I froze my ass off. The drill was ruthless and drilled faster than my old gas auger with the exact same had auger itself. I started off useing the 3ah battery from my other set and I ended up drilling 3 and 1/2 holes in like a foot before it died. Switched over to the 4ah and It made it like 12 holes. I was not impressed. I repeated the same test out on a diffrent lake when it was about 20F and it still preformed about the same. Not only that, but it didn't have full power untill the end like the old milwakee. I am verry disapointed with mikita and their batterys. Same batterys that were able to screw over 300 2 1/2" stailess deck screws into a 4x4 piece of pine right at 32F degrees. Can someone tell me if the 5ah battery works better, or is this what I can expect from makita from now on?
Overall I would not recomend and am thoroughly dissapointed and would not recomend.
-Jon
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I recently consulted this forum before makeing a purchase and I am sad to say I choose Makita. I have always loved the company and before this would have highly recomend there products. I used a milwakee lithium full sized brushed motor drill a long time ago to drill 8" holes. That had enough torque at 550ft-lb rated, but I used a gas auger instead. Fast forward to this year I bought a new makita drill. The one with 1090 ft-lb and the 4ah batterys. I had the midsize drill with 3ah batterys but I wanted the extra oumph, so I bought the new set. Fist outing out it was like -5F and I froze my ass off. The drill was ruthless and drilled faster than my old gas auger with the exact same had auger itself. I started off useing the 3ah battery from my other set and I ended up drilling 3 and 1/2 holes in like a foot before it died. Switched over to the 4ah and It made it like 12 holes. I was not impressed. I repeated the same test out on a diffrent lake when it was about 20F and it still preformed about the same. Not only that, but it didn't have full power untill the end like the old milwakee. I am verry disapointed with mikita and their batterys. Same batterys that were able to screw over 300 2 1/2" stailess deck screws into a 4x4 piece of pine right at 32F degrees. Can someone tell me if the 5ah battery works better, or is this what I can expect from makita from now on?
Overall I would not recomend and am thoroughly dissapointed and would not recomend.
-Jon
Don't know what to tell you Kayak. I try not to disparage any manufacturer, Makita is a reputable brand. I went with the Dewalt 20 volt with the 5 AH batteries and it eats the ice up. The temps shouldn't have affected those batteries so quickly unless there were hours between drilling holes. The Milwaukee Fuel drill seems to be the ice eating monster, but I would love to go head to head with my Dewalt set up. Maybe you try a different brand? I hate to hear negative reviews of this type of auger, I will likely not use my gas auger again. Best of luck!!!
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I have the 5ah Makita batteries and have had good luck. Everything I read says to keep the batteries warm, or performance will suffer. Is the drill the XPH07Z? I have the same one for working, but I bought a standalone XFD03Z (750 in-lbs) to permanently mount to the clam plate. I have had good luck.
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I have the 5ah Makita batteries and have had good luck. Everything I read says to keep the batteries warm, or performance will suffer. Is the drill the XPH07Z? I have the same one for working, but I bought a standalone XFD03Z (750 in-lbs) to permanently mount to the clam plate. I have had good luck.
That's great news. My dad had one of the first 12 v. Makita drills back when I was a kid and that damn thing still works. Its the goofiest looking drill and sort of feels wierd and unbalanced when you hold it but it has been bulletproof. On my Dewalt, I keep the batteries warm and recharge them after each daily outing. I keep meaning to go run a video of how many holes I can get per 5 AH battery, but I keep letting the fishing get in the way!
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I bought a set up with Ridgid brushless drill with 4ah batteries and a 7in auger on a clam drill plate. It worked great the first time out but now it stops after I get a hole started I take it out and pull the trigger and sometimes it works, but sometimes I have to unhook battery and put it back it.. Have any of you had this problem?
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Does it do it with both batteries? Sounds like a connection problem.
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Yes more so with one than the other.
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Maybe the battery connectors on the drill are bent. I wouldn't mess with it unless you see something obvious. Time to take advantage of that great lifetime repair warranty. Or take advantage of the return policy and get a Milwaukee.
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Has anyone had experience with the Dewalt Atomic Compact DCD794? Does it have the torque needed?
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Has anyone had experience with the Dewalt Atomic Compact DCD794? Does it have the torque needed?
That model has less then the required torque ...will burn up .Are you already in the Dewalt Platform ?
These Drill will work
Dewalt DCD991
Dewalt DCD996
Dewalt DCD997
Dewalt DCD998 must use 6ah or better Flexvolt battery to achieve the higher advertised torque
Dewalt DCD999 must use 6ah or better Flexvolt battery to achieve the higher advertised torque
Milwaukee 2804-20
Milwaukee 2803-20
Milwaukee 2904-20
Milwaukee 2903-20
Spec for the proper drill
18V or Higher Brushless Drill
5 Amp Hour or Higher Battery
1/2” Chuck Type
Side Stabilizer / Handle
Minimum Torque Rating of 84 Nm / 750 in. lbs/800 UWO
DRILL SETTING ....DRILL MODE.. Speed Setting 1 NO HAMMEER MODE !!!
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Thank Hardwater.
The reason I was looking at that model of Dewalt is they have a great deal on them at Fleet Farm.
I have the Ryobi 18V driver/drill set that I use on my horse farm on almost a weekly basis. However, when I tried to use that last year is didn't have the torque to run a 6" auger. I'll keep looking for a deal from the list you posted.
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macker13
This is Ryobi best of the best as of now ..its a tad weak on torque ...but if you dont push it too hard could be the ticket ...as long as you have a 4ah battery or better
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Tool-Only-PBLHM101B/314109445
PM sent
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macker13
This is Ryobi best of the best as of now ..its a tad weak on torque ...but if you dont push it too hard could be the ticket ...as long as you have a 4ah battery or better
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Tool-Only-PBLHM101B/314109445
PM sent
I have that same drill running on a 6" lazer hand auger on a clam plate. It works great. I do use a 9ah battery that I got like 3 years ago on crazy sale that Ryobi doesn't make anymore. THey do have an 8ah though now. And of course 6 ah. One MIGHT be able to turn an 8" auger with the same drill and a 6ah or higher battery.