Author Topic: Power Auger Summer Storage (Read 7362 times)

Gamalot · « **on:** Mar 19, 2005, 11:56 AM »

I don't know what it takes to be an expert in this area but I have had many augers thru the years and will make some simple suggestions that work very well for me.

1. Fill the tank with fresh gas/oil mix and use the recommended ammount of Stabil in the tank.

2. Go to a boating or auto parts store and buy a can of spray storage fogger.
Remove the air filter, Start the auger and spray directly into the carb until it stalls out. Replace the air filter. Do this outside.

3. Store the engine standing up securely in a corner and slightly crack the air screw on the cap to allow for expansion.

4. It is a great idea to spray the bit down with either silicone or WD-40.

I have completely drained my tank in the past and found the carb seals and valves dried out causing big problems the following year.
The above method has been used by me and my friends for many years and no problems have ever been reported.
This takes about 5 minutes and is well worth the efforts for next season.

Ray4852 · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 12:21 PM »

Spray the fogging oil into the carb while the motor is running. Shut off the gas supply to the carb and keep spraying till the gas runs out while the motor is running. The fogging oil will protect your carb and power head. Pull your plugs and spray fogging oil into the spark plugs holes and crank over a few times. Never store gas in tank for long periods of time. Empty it. If you want put a small coating of engine oil on the metal surfaces to protect from rust. If you have any grease fitting ad a shot of grease. Store in a up position.

johnnylimit · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 12:46 PM »

Just wondering why you should drain the tank?

Gamalot · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 12:48 PM »

Ray4852, I see we have a slight difference of opinion. Let us discuss this.
I leave the gas tank almost full allowing room for some expansion. This is what STABIL says is best.
Over a summer or winter is not considered LONG term Storage when STABIL is used.
With the fogging oil being sprayed into a running engine and stalling it out there is no need to remove the plug and spray more- it is already there.
I use my proceedure on my chain saws and weed wackers and lawn mowers and never have a problem when I start a new season with the STABILIZED gas in the tank.
More then an over the summer or winter storage period and I too would use your system of draining. According to STABIL the gas will be good for a full year when the proper mix is done to FRESH fuel. All of my equipment starts with three pulls after the storage period and the fuel in the tanks runs them just fine. I have 12 different Small engine pieces of equipment and as long as they were running fine they keep running fine the way I store them.
Lets hear how some of you others prepare for storage.

Ray4852 · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 01:25 PM »

Gamalot I see we do things much different. Your way will work but my way is going to protect the carb and power head much better. Why are you worrying about expansion when it’s much better to empty the gas tank? Never store gas for long periods of time. stabil is a good product but I want 100percent protection. Empty gas tank. Gas will break down much faster during the summer season. Did you ever see what gas does to a fuel system when it sits for long periods of time? I here the same thing too when guys store there boats for the season. Store with a full tank of gas. These guys like to punish themselves. Why do you think we need mechanics? lol I would rather be out fishing someplace then waiting for my motor to get service. You do what’s best for you I’m going to take care of Ray.

Trevor · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 02:06 PM »

Ray, the reason for keeping the tank full is to avoid condensation inside the tank. Water will form on the inside of an empty tank during temperature fluctuations. It's not so bad if you store in a controlled climate where temp. and humidity remain constant. I have always drained the tank. I also have had big problems the following year. This season I am going with keeping the tank full and adding some Stabill. The fuel will still be fine in the fall. I'll also do the engine fog. I use the same procedure for my snowmobile....If you're worried about the fuel breaking down over storage then drain it in the fall and add fresh fuel before starting it for the season...

Trevor

Ray4852 · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 02:35 PM »

Trevor I never had a condensation problem or starting problem. When I take my motors out of storage. I add fresh gas and I’m ready to go. On my boat I have a raycore filter. That’s the purpose of putting a filter on in the first place to protect the fuel system if moisture did form. By adding fresh gas the menthol will absorb the condensation that collected in the tank and the filter will do its job. You can keep your tank full too. The mechanics have to make a living somehow. It’s amazing how the Internet can educate the people the right way or the wrong way. You do what is best for you too.

Trevor · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 03:16 PM »

It's got nothing to do with the internet. I feel draining leaves a film behind and yes condensation can and does often lead to water in the fuel. I used to store my dirt bikes and streetbikes like this(full tanks). Think I'll give it a try on my auger, that's all. Fuel doesn't break down over a few months of storage, especially with the stabilizer...

The debate over the best way to store seasonal equipment has been ongoing for years. Each has his own method that has worked well for him. We are simply offering tips based on experience. It's up to the reader to use his disgretion to decide what's best for him. This will inevitably turn into a debate. Once we are finished perhaps we could argue Chev/Ford for a while...

Not all who read online believe whatever they read Ray...

Trevor

chumster · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 03:37 PM »

I'm glad i dont have those fuel debate problems. I have an Electra 12000. Take the battery out, take the auger part off, spray the connection, put back in box. Charge the battery a couple times over the summer, if i dont use it on my portable locater, and store it too. It really is that simple for me. You guys debate nice now, okay!

Ray4852 · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 03:47 PM »

good post trevor

Gamalot · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 03:55 PM »

According to the info published on the Strikemaster sight under summer storage!
They recommend either way. Drain it and run it dry at idle speed, or fill the tank and STABILIZE it.
It is simply a matter of personal prefrence, to each his own!
I like my way and Ray likes his way and both work.
I double my protection over the summer by drowning the engine out with fogging oil which is sucked into the cylinder thru the carb and coats all the internal parts with a film of oil.
There really is no debate since either way is the recommended proceedure by the manufacturer of my auger. I find my way easier and I am sure Ray is perfectly satisfied with his way.
What is most important is that you do one of them because your auger will not serve you next season if you don't.

Trevor · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 06:53 PM »

Quote from: chumster on Mar 19, 2005, 03:37 PM

I'm glad i dont have those fuel debate problems. I have an Electra 12000. Take the battery out, take the auger part off, spray the connection, put back in box. Charge the battery a couple times over the summer, if i dont use it on my portable locater, and store it too. It really is that simple for me. You guys debate nice now, okay!

LMAO, thanks for the laugh Chumster

. Actually I have been very seriously considering a battery powered auger. The problem is where I am it is common to be drilling through 3' of ice by Jan. 1st. If the bite is slow I drill a lot of holes in day. Plus I'm not sold on the idea of having to drag around a battery. I'm really hoping they'll soon come out with a compact, long lasting battery that mounts right on the auger. As soon as they do I'll sell the strikemaster. Might even go with a four stroke sled. Just can't stand sitting in the shack smelling two stroke smoke...

Trevor

stumper · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 07:47 PM »

kinda hijacking the thread but,mt strikemaster electra with built in battery driled a ton of holes and i never did charge it from when i bought it to when i sold it.

stump

Trevor · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 07:53 PM »

Built in battery?

? Does it really exist? How thick was the ice?

Please do tell...

Trevor

stumper · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 08:06 PM »

yup ,strikemaster electra 12000,ice wasnt real thick 4 to 6 inches.but the charge indicator wouldnt move after drilling 10 holes at a time.only a 5 inch hole though,thats why i sold it.had to many fish first week of ice that wouldnt fit through the hole

they do sell them with bigger bits though.check with thorne bros or cabelas.got mine at cabelas.they come with a great charger and a set of cables so you can hook up to a different battery if needed.uses the same battery as a vex or marcum.

stump

capt.shay · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 08:22 AM »

Well, this thread seems to have been hijacked by the electric crowd (and I would like to hear more as I like the concept). As a landscaper I regularly pull out or put away 30 or so pieces of power equipment each season and we use the full tank with stabill method. We also put a cap full of Marvell Mystry Oil and a cap full of dry gas in each tank and then run them for five minutes before they get stored for the season. This method has proved successfully for a lot of pieces of equipment for a lot of seasons and produces second or third pull starts almost every time.

Just my $0.02

bigredonice · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 10:41 AM »

i drain gas out of my auger every spring, but my other two stroke (outboard motor) i leave stabilized gas in it over the winter...never had a problem with either method.

Chainsaw · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 12:10 PM »

See the Auger Fuel post to find out why you have to pre-prep some units for storage. I like the idea of the electric unit though, especially when it's mounted on an ATV with CHAINSAW'S fold out mount. You drive your ATV around and when you want a new hole you flip the lever and it drills one right there. The power comes from the ATVs battery/charge system. Way cool. Cheaper w/ less maintenance.
Imagine the (insert any name brand ATV here), Ice Fishin' Special Edition. Auger on front, heated house on back, etc. C'mon guys. We're sittin' on a fortune here. Let's design the Ice Shanty ATV-mobile, with tracks as an option,(well, somebody said the thread had already been hijacked

).
In any case WHY you have to pre-prep power units, and the fuel to use is in the 'Auger Fuel' post, and thanks fer puttin' up with 'The Long Winded Old Guy'.

chumster · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 01:18 PM »

Just checked back. My electra is an 8". I get 15 to 20 holes on a slow day, with the ice anywhere from 8 to 12 inches thick. I dont have to hook my battery up to an electric outlet to recharge it. I have a stayncharge unit in my vehicle. I made a setup with a couple clips and i can hook it up right in my trunk. I get a full charge as i ride home from the lake and back to the lake the next morning. Unhook it at night and rehook it in the morning. If i stop at the baitshop i let it run. Probably takes a little over an hour to get a full charge reading on my meter. And you can buy an auger bit seperately if you need one. Well worth the investment on both as i live in an apartment building and dont have an outside hookup.

toothfish · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 21, 2005, 03:05 PM »

This is what I do for a living--Outdoor power Equipment. What ever works for you is fine--but! Our fuel will not hold its octane for more than 90 days. Some engines will run on a lower octane than others--but! You should never run fuel over 90 days old. Stihl, B&S, Tecumseh, and others say 90 days. Where you store it is important. If you can store in an even temp. the better. I know theres many out there that will say " I've done this or that for years with no problem why should I change?" Great! -but! stabil do'es nothing for octane. In my mind the most important thing is fresh fuel !

twodoggs · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 21, 2005, 03:39 PM »

I would like to point out one thing gamealot. summer may not be long term but spring summer and fall is. most of us leave the auger for about 9 months in storage. I have always emptied the tank and run the thing out of fuel which is what strikemaster told me to do. I live about 20 miles from the plant and bring the auger there for a tune up.

Gamalot · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 21, 2005, 04:06 PM »

The OCTANE point is interesting and I will give this some thought. I like keeping the carb and tank full simply because I have owned many older Muscle cars and about the worst thing you can do is leave them high and dry and not run them at the very least, once a month.
I also start all my equipment a few times durring the off seasons just like I charge my deep cycle batteries when njot in use.
I would have no problems with dumping the gas left in before starting the season and filling with fresh and I do this myself. I just don't go for the idea of leaving a tank and carb empty to dry out and varnish over durring the off season.
I always have a spring bon fire from all the branches that fell over the winter and this is always started with old gas from lawn equipment. I will say my big mower is mighty hard to empty out and never fails me after the storage period even with the OLD & STABILIZED fuel.
What ever floats your boat and the Strikemaster web sight claims either method is FINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

toothfish · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 21, 2005, 04:21 PM »

Gamalot, Car gas tanks are metal, most auger tanks are plastic [condensasion factor] Sounds like you are getting along fine with what you are doing so keep it up. But [theres always a but] I would mix new fuel in the fall.

Gamalot · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 21, 2005, 05:32 PM »

Toothfish, The entire point of this post was to get those who don't know to do at least one of the above mentioned proceedures.
We all have our own particular way of storing equipment. The jury is still and has been, OUT as far as the very best way to do it!
I think where you live and the conditions of the storage area has alot to do with what works best for you.
If you have a metal tank- Leave it full and empty it prior to use.
If you have a plastic tank then do what ever you like but don't use the gas, Stabilized or not the following year.
If you do nothing, NO STABILIZER, NO EMPTY TANK, and NO NEW FUEL and attempt to drill holes next year at first ice- you will be one of many I have seen who can't drill a hole to fish!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You might also be one of the many who keep the small engine repair shops working thru the off season while you use your hand auger to drill holes.

I have an auger that is 12 years old and a newer one. Both have never been to a shop because I cared for them. You decide just how much STUPID money you want to spend for a few minutes of maintainance.
The info is here on how to do it! Weather you go one way or the other is not the point- JUST DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

reelucky · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 23, 2005, 08:36 AM »

I've been fogging 2 cycles for 30 years. I just got a new Eskimo Mako this winter. After several issues which Eskimo (Aradisam) took care of promtly ran like a top. I have a clear tank. I drained it. Ran carb out of fuel. Remove spark plug and air box. Wide open throttle and dump some fooging oil down carb and pull starter cord. procede until you see a fine mist coming out of spark plug hole. This coats all the little tiny needle bearings on the connecting rod and piston walls and crankcase with a good coating of fogging oil.

It is the most important thing you can do. The highly polished bearings develop microscopic rust pits under microscope look like mountains and valleys. These mounts will eventually eat the bearing, rod and failure in emminent.

Coats the blades with Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor( it's like what the Gov. uses to coat M-1s before issue to soldiers cosmoline).

Always start w fresh fuel as stated below.

CRC makes the best fogging oil and HD Corrision Inhib. both under those names and usually can be got a NAPA. The fogging oil comes out like shaving cream and adhears the surfaces like shaving cream. Jeffrey

icewagon · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 23, 2005, 10:38 AM »

What ever method you use full tank, empty tank ,keep in mind if you store your auger in the basement never let gas in the tank. Fumes from the gas could start a fire when the furnace kicks on.
Icewagon

TGF · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 23, 2005, 10:42 AM »

Just wondering if any of you guys have heard of Fitches fuel catalysts. My buddy used this in his outdoor equipment. Its not an additive but a permanent fuel treatment. He tells me you just drop it in tank attached to string. They are quite small and last for years and years. Apparently it breaks down the long chained hydrocarbons into smaller more combustible components. I will be giving it a try this year on some of my equipment. He also tells me that he puts one in his 5 gallon jug of gas, the fuel is changed instantly. Then dumps the fuel into vehicle or any engine. Eliminates the need for stabilizer. Increases hp also. Racers are using this. Anyway just ondering if anyone has used these, before I do?

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Author Topic: Power Auger Summer Storage (Read 7362 times)

icewagon