Author Topic: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)  (Read 3156 times)

Offline CO_Dinky

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My Piscifun inline arrived today.  Seems to be a pretty well made little reel, overall.  Full aluminum frame and spool, mostly metal components, with the exception of the freefall trigger and EVA foam handle knobs on the outside, and a couple small parts on the inside.  Not bad for $40.

Right off the bat, I can tell that the anti-reverse roller bearing is somewhat lacking.  There is a tiny bit of backlash, and some noticeable side-to-side wobble.  This tells me that it's not a super precise bearing (you'll see later).

The spool is noticeably smaller than most any inline I've ever seen, by 50% at least.  In that respect, it almost looks like a toy.  However, this dimunitive size is what also makes it nice to hold in the palm of your hand.  It will lend itself to the gun-grip style of jigging quite nicely as a result.

Enough chit chat, on to the teardown!  ;D






Couple shots of the frontside of the reel.



Backside of the reel.



The backside of the spool.  Not much to see here, so I didn't take it apart.  The steel star gear engages the brass crank on the reel, every other tooth.



Side of the reel after removing the spool.  Note the brass drive gear and the different screws.  The 5 Philip's-head screws need to be removed in order to separate the reel.  The two Allen-head cap screws can stay put.



Brass drive gear in normal position when reeling.



Brass drive gear when freefall lever is pulled.  This retracts the brass drive gear out of the spool, allowing the spool to spin freely on two bearings.



The 5 Philip's head screws that need to be removed in order to separate the frame from the cover plate. Note the 4 tapered-head screws that hold the two main parts together, and the one flat head that goes into the handle shaft.



The inside of the reel frame.  This shows the freefall actuation mechanism.  The lever engages a slot in the metal carrier, which then rotates.  The plastic ramps then lift the plastic gear carrier, which disengages the drive gear from the spool.  Pretty simple.

Unfortunately, the use of plastic here in these two parts is probably the weakest point in the reel.  Eventually, it is pretty likely that these two plastic parts will wear out and/or fail well before anything else on the reel.



Gear carrier and gear removed from the spool shaft.  The plastic ramps are easily visible.



Inside of the outer cover.  This piece carries the spool shaft, the crank handle, the drag, and the freefall trigger.



Close-up showing the drag mechanism with the brass primary drive gear.



Another close-up, using flash.



Handle side of the reel.  The handle nut keeper screw and keeper have to be removed before the handle nut can be unscrewed.  The handle nut can then be removed.  NOTE, THESE ARE REVERSE THREADS!





A couple pictures of the disassembled handle and drag assembly.  Once you remove the handle nut and lift the handle off of the keyed (flat) shaft, the thin spring washer also lifts off. 

Next, the drag knob needs to be threaded off of the shaft.  Remember, these are REVERSE THREADS.  With that off, the clicker lifts off the shaft (note orientation, the hollowed-out side faces up toward the drag knob.  Next, there are two spacer washers that lift off.

Finally, the drag mechanism itself lifts off. There is a sandwich of a flat metal washer, a carbon fiber washer, the brass gear, another carbon fiber washer, and another flat metal washer.

Everything was pretty well-oiled and greased here.



This is the roller bearing bushing.  It's keyed on the inside (flats on both sides) to fit the drag/handle shaft, and smooth and round on the outside to engage the one-way roller bearing.  NOTE: I do not recommend taking this piece completely out of the roller bearing.  On some cheaper roller bearings, the rollers can fall out if not supported, and I did not care to find out the hard way here if that was the case or not.



Roller bearing bushing and roller bearing from inside of the reel.

That's it!  ;)  Reassemble in reverse order.  :)  There are a handful of other parts that can be disassembled from the frame if necessary, but I did not see the need to do that here.  The screws are obvious.

Hope this helps someone out in the future, and helps to show what kind of quality we're dealing with here.  Overall, not bad for the money in my opinion.  @)  I just wish the two plastic parts for the freefall mechanism were made out of metal and not plastic.  The reel would be FAR more robust if that were the case, and it would last a LOT longer!  :-\

Take care!   :icefish:
Tight lines!

Offline badger132

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #1 on: Nov 07, 2020, 10:46 AM »
Did you test the free fall sensitivity? I have tried some cheaper inline reels, and getting them to drop reliably and still not overrun and snarl has been the weak point. Also the drag- that is usually simpler, but would be nice to know.

 :tipup:

Offline CO_Dinky

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #2 on: Nov 07, 2020, 03:41 PM »
Had a few questions via PM about the freefall lever, so I took the reel apart again and took a few photos to help out.



The three parts that make up the lever mechanism.  You can see how the brass part is keyed to fit into the metal plate that is embedded in the plastic lever.



There is a thin teflon washer sandwiched between the freefall lever and the reel body.



Inside of the reel after the freefall lever has been removed.

As previously mentioned, the freefall lever has a metal plate embedded in it, which mounts to the brass pin lever on the inside.  The brass part is a round shaft with two flats cut at the top, and the metal plate in the freefall lever has a matching hole.  This is a nice touch, the metal plate will help prevent the freefall lever hole from wallowing out over time.

However, as a side effect, this design does not lend itself to modification very well.
Tight lines!

Offline CO_Dinky

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #3 on: Nov 07, 2020, 03:53 PM »
Did you test the free fall sensitivity? I have tried some cheaper inline reels, and getting them to drop reliably and still not overrun and snarl has been the weak point. Also the drag- that is usually simpler, but would be nice to know.

 :tipup:

I have not spooled any line onto this reel yet.  However, I can tell you that with the freefall lever lifted, the spool is completely free to spin on two bearings, and it turns extremely easily.  If I flick it with my thumb, it freely spins for ~8 seconds before stopping. This reel does NOT have an adjustable freefall.

The drag seems pretty darn smooth.  On mine, the minimum drag is so little that just barely touching the spool with a finger while reeling will make it stop.  The maximum drag setting is pretty strong, enough that it takes a fair amount of grip strength to keep the spool from turning (and the drag is still pretty smooth).  The box claims 9.9# of drag, and I'd estimate that's pretty close, if not higher. FAR more than any line I plan to put on this tiny reel.
Tight lines!

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #4 on: Nov 07, 2020, 05:22 PM »
Mine arrived today. Seems like a solid reel. Question! How was the smoothness to the handle if you tried to spin it fast and let free spin?? My handle would only spin about a full revolution!!
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Offline maddogg

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #5 on: Nov 16, 2020, 03:04 PM »
Mine arrived today. Seems like a solid reel. Question! How was the smoothness to the handle if you tried to spin it fast and let free spin?? My handle would only spin about a full revolution!!

The handle will not spin freely because it is connected directly to the spool and drag unlike a spinning reel where it only turns the rotor.

Offline CO_Dinky

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #6 on: Dec 05, 2020, 08:34 PM »
Used the reel for the first time last weekend.  Very happy with it overall, easily dropped a 1/32oz. jig without any assistance.  1/8oz. didn't drop overly fast as could cause a rat's nest in the spool.  That's perfect.

Drag was very smooth, and has plenty of adjustment, if not a slightly short throw at only ~3/4 of a rotation from zero drag to max.  As the drag washers wear, this should increase a bit, so it's not necessarily a bad thing.  I did not have any trouble adjusting it as I fought fish.

The freefall lever is indeed very close to the line, so close that I think this was a design feature.  Like you're supposed to grab the line when you pull the lever.  It doesn't really make sense though, so not sure what they were thinking.  I had no trouble grabbing the lever w/o the line without gloves on, but it was difficult with gloves.  This was really my only complaint with the reel.  I would like to see a modified lever if they redesign the reel, to put the lever somewhere between the line and the rod.  An angle change of ~20º would likely do the trick, with a slightly shorter lever.

Mine arrived today. Seems like a solid reel. Question! How was the smoothness to the handle if you tried to spin it fast and let free spin?? My handle would only spin about a full revolution!!

It free spins a bit, but it's not going to spin too long on its own, in part due to the low gear ratio.

The handle will not spin freely because it is connected directly to the spool and drag unlike a spinning reel where it only turns the rotor.

And this.
Tight lines!

Offline Junkie4Ice

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #7 on: Dec 11, 2020, 08:07 AM »
I'm wondering if a shorter reel stem would fix the line and trigger issue? Since you aren't changing the location of the first eye, the trigger should be a little closer to the rod than the line if the stem were shorter if I'm thinking right.
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Offline maddogg

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Re: Piscifun ICX Precision Inline Reel Teardown (pic heavy)
« Reply #8 on: Dec 11, 2020, 02:15 PM »
I'm wondering if a shorter reel stem would fix the line and trigger issue? Since you aren't changing the location of the first eye, the trigger should be a little closer to the rod than the line if the stem were shorter if I'm thinking right.

It would be easier to position the lever closer to the stem. But you're correct shorting the stem would help.

 



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