Author Topic: Knife Sharpener? (Read 4227 times)

CoachWalleye74 · « **on:** Oct 21, 2016, 08:42 AM »

I'm looking for information on a electric knife sharpener. I've never been able to master the hand sharpening skill, so I'm going to try the electric. Use would be for fillet knives, hunting knives, pocket knives, occasional kitchen knife. I'm looking at the Chef's Choice Hybrid 250 (3 stage, also does serrated blades) or the Presto 08810.

Thoughts on these products, or similar?

3300 · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:03 AM »

looks like it does well on amazon reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/Chefs-Choice-Diamond-Hybrid-Sharpener/dp/B007MHEYW4?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Chefs-Choice-220-Sharpener-Stainless/dp/B0039SLUI6

i just use the V type pull thru knife sharpeners and they do well.

Whytie · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:13 AM »

I have one of these sharpeners and its been working great.
https://www.worksharptools.com/

defish · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:22 AM »

Quote from: CoachWalleye74 on Oct 21, 2016, 08:42 AM

I'm looking for information on a electric knife sharpener. I've never been able to master the hand sharpening skill, so I'm going to try the electric. Use would be for fillet knives, hunting knives, pocket knives, occasional kitchen knife. I'm looking at the Chef's Choice Hybrid 250 (3 stage, also does serrated blades) or the Presto 08810.

Thoughts on these products, or similar?

Accusharp knife sharpeners work great, no skill required, way less expensive, and don't need electricity. They're also a top rated choice by America's Test Kitchen.

vanhln · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:26 AM »

I concur with defish. My neighbor does lots of cooking and he recommends ones similar to this:

AccuSharp 001 Knife Sharpener
https://www.amazon.com/AccuSharp-ACCU-001C-001-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00004VWKQ

Meterman · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:40 AM »

X2 on the Work Sharp Knife Sharpener, I have tried several and this has been the best and easiest (most idiot proof IMO)

https://www.worksharptools.com/]https://www.worksharptools.com/

Thorney · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:52 AM »

X3 on the Worksharp. I've had several others and the Worksharp is the best. Get several grit belts and it will bring out a very nice edge. I am neurotic about having sharp knives. I hate cooking or cleaning game with dull knives.

YtownThrowDown · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 09:58 AM »

X3 on the work sharp, fast and easy. I use the medium and fine belts on the ken onion edition to keep edges on my knives. The more agressive belts will really do some work quick on changing the cutting profile.

stripernut · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 10:03 AM »

X4 on the Work Sharp Knife Sharpener. I use to teach knife sharpening by hand, but for speed and quality of the edge, you can't beat it. And if you have a expensive chef's knife that is destroyed by someone using it in the garden to cut up Hausta root balls in the dirt, the Work Sharp Knife Sharpener, can bring it back from the dead... Just don't ask me how I know!!!!!!

CoachWalleye74 · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 10:07 AM »

The Worksharp Combo?

CoachWalleye74 · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 12:12 PM »

I purchased the original Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. After watching a few videos it looks easy to use, especially with the guides. Excited to try it out:)

jopes · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 01:36 PM »

x3 for the accusharp. It works awesome. couple swipes and its razor sharp. gets dull it is easy to resharpen.

Baetis62 · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 03:28 PM »

I've heard good things about the worksharp. I've had a warthog (no motor) for years and it works great...just haven't found the need to add the worksharp.

missoulafish · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 04:36 PM »

Those acusharp design sharpeners are the way to go if you want to wear out your knives. Not a fan of of using carbide to scrape the blade of my knives down to a coarse, serrated mess. The Colorado Beaver Teeth style sharpeners are easy to use and your knife is razor sharp after a few licks.

chilly-willy · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 04:53 PM »

Quote from: missoulafish on Oct 21, 2016, 04:36 PM

Those acusharp design sharpeners are the way to go if you want to wear out your knives. Not a fan of of using carbide to scrape the blade of my knives down to a coarse, serrated mess. The Colorado Beaver Teeth style sharpeners are easy to use and your knife is razor sharp after a few licks.

X2 on said above about accusharp and I think x5 on worksharp set up but my self don't like power set ups as much .... i my self like some thing that can hold your knife at a angle then just use sand paper.. like 400 grit to 2000 grit .. wet dry papper.. any thing like 10 to 150 grit is to corse and is meant for shaping the blade were the 400 and higher grit wet / dry is good for honing and sharpening a edge.. if you got a miter saw use it to cut wood at angles to set blade angle for sharpening..

rgfixit · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 05:05 PM »

Carbide scrapers destroy a good knife very quickly. If you use cheap throw away knives, they're perfect. They leave a ragged edge that will cut for while, but won't last. The worksharp units will achieve a decent edge , but again, it's a ragged edge that will lose its effectiveness fairly quickly depending on the steel.

Ceramic sharpeners are better in that they create a better finished edge that will last longer without removing as much of the blade you're trying to protect.

My knives, kitchen, fishing and pocket are sharpened on water stones from 1000 to 6000 grit and finished on a strop. My kitchen knives are maintained with a fine diamond steel until they need the edge reshaped.

Wusthof's hand held ceramic wheel sharpener will do a good job on most any hardness of blade. The Miyabi 2 stage sharpened is a good choice for fillet and hunting knives used to skin and gut.

All that aside, a set of good water stones and some practice will produce a superior edge that will last far longer.

Rg

chilly-willy · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 06:16 PM »

By the way good points there from rgfixit also if it happens to have a scalloped blade like most electric knifes some times do you can use sand paper and triangle cut strip or even round dowels depending on shape of blade.. kinda like a serated blade sharpener and even hold the blade at a angle with a miter cut block of wood .. that's how I suggest to sharpen it with high grit paper like 1000 grit.. by the way when I was talking shaping the knife with 10 to 150 grit I am talking making your own knife from scratch.. and having to bevel shape etc.. from scratch... if intresting look up the scary sharp method of sharpening.. stropping with a leather strop.. would be a great idea to which will remove burs from the edge.. but for sure don't use power tools to sharpen and carbide vee's they do about the same I think..

Fish Butcher · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 07:05 PM »

Believe it or not I have had my knives to sharp and that makes it trickier to filet fish.

rgfixit · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 07:33 PM »

The blades on the electric knives can be touched up with a steel. Sharpen the serrated side only. Never the flat. Back and forth on the steel will bring them back to a useable condition. I fillet all my fish with my electric knife.

Rg

defish · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 07:35 PM »

Quote from: rgfixit on Oct 21, 2016, 05:05 PM

Carbide scrapers destroy a good knife very quickly. If you use cheap throw away knives, they're perfect. They leave a ragged edge that will cut for while, but won't last. The worksharp units will achieve a decent edge , but again, it's a ragged edge that will lose its effectiveness fairly quickly depending on the steel.

Ceramic sharpeners are better in that they create a better finished edge that will last longer without removing as much of the blade you're trying to protect.

My knives, kitchen, fishing and pocket are sharpened on water stones from 1000 to 6000 grit and finished on a strop. My kitchen knives are maintained with a fine diamond steel until they need the edge reshaped.

Wusthof's hand held ceramic wheel sharpener will do a good job on most any hardness of blade. The Miyabi 2 stage sharpened is a good choice for fillet and hunting knives used to skin and gut.

All that aside, a set of good water stones and some practice will produce a superior edge that will last far longer.

Rg

A carbide sharpener to put an edge on a fillet knife works well with a ceramic rod to maintain the edge - I wouldn't use one EVERY time a blade needs touching up. The OP wanted easy and Accusharps are easy.

On good kitchen knives I use this type sharpener https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4 It puts on a razor edge that lasts with probably the least wear on the blade. With an add-on extension mine also works well for sharpening auger blades...

missoulafish · « **Reply #20 on:** Oct 21, 2016, 07:52 PM »

A carbide "sharpener" will still ruin your knives, no matter how "easy" they are.

rgfixit · « **Reply #21 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 04:53 AM »

Quote from: missoulafish on Oct 21, 2016, 07:52 PM

A carbide "sharpener" will still ruin your knives, no matter how "easy" they are.

Yup!

Rg

esox_xtm · « **Reply #22 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 06:41 AM »

I'm still using a Lansky jig. It can be time consuming if you've really abused your knife but my results are fantastic. I run through the series of stones, usually just coarse, medium and fine finishing up on a Brookstone strop. Literally shaving sharp....

As far as the carbide sharpeners I'd agree that they do not put a great finished edge on a knife. I do keep one around for "rescuing" really beat up edges so I don't have to take so much time with the Lansky.

I keep looking at the Onion/Worksharp units but I just haven't had the motivation to go there. Yet. Question for you users: Is there only one grit for a sharpening belt or is there an assortment? Once I get to the fine stone on the Lansky it really take the edge to the next level and I'd miss that. Something like a 400 might get me there.

mealworm · « **Reply #23 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 06:50 AM »

I love my worksharp u can sharpen any knife plus any tools shovels hatchets and axes scissors etc.

chilly-willy · « **Reply #24 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 07:09 AM »

Ya there changeable belts in the work sharp system by Ken onion the belts in that model are 3/4 inch wide were others work sharp models are 1/2? Or 1 inch? Any how I don't like the work sharp system as much as the Lasky sharpeners cause they will ware out a good knife real quick same as carbide with the power and belts. .. you can stop on the Lasky easier and remove less then that of a power unit.. the power will just bite off what ever it can take with it... that's why if you like Lasky sharpeners, by some long popsicle sticks.. then glue on different grits and use the Lasky holder with those grits.. another thing once set for a Lasky the angles are different some times 30 and 15 degree for the work sharp were i think some of the laskys were 32* and 12*.. so basically some times changing the blade angle with the work sharp and having to grind till its meet.. which takes a lot from the blade.. me I would stick with the Lasky sharpening set up and try different paper grits.. cause every knife is different same with axes... I hold my axes in a vise and use a file to sharpen them . Then touch then up with 400 grit paper.. if wondering about axes..

Deal Ninja · « **Reply #25 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 07:18 AM »

Esox_xtm, If you're willing to spend for knife sharpener, look here: http://www.edgeproinc.com/?gclid=CNbsrfCs7s8CFdhbhgod4hcLmQ This is a high quality tool.

I have a number of high-end Japanese kitchen knives that I purchased this for some years ago. The model I have is called the Pro 3 kit today. Similar in method to the Lansky, but more precise and able to do large chef's knives, slicers and santokus. I sharpen my kitchen blades at 16 degrees. I used a Lansky for years and thought very highly of it fwiw. I also have Chef's Choice machine I use for lesser knives. The Edgepro takes sharpening to the next level.

This is not what the OP asked for, so I put it out here just for others reading the thread. I'm also obviously in the anti-carbide group unless you want me to sharpen your Rada.

chilly-willy · « **Reply #26 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 07:44 AM »

That edge pro seems a tad on the expensive side at $570 when this one sells for $29.99... also like said wood blocks and sand paper make stones for lansky sharpeners why not for this? and I am sure if you needed some extra stones lansky sell exTra quality stones that more then likely are compatible with this sharpener seen at link..

https://www.smkw.com/schrade-sharpening-systems-advant-edge

tbirdbassr · « **Reply #27 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 07:57 AM »

A smooth piece of leather and some yellowstone compound works wonders on any knife that hasnt been abused. I have kids that use mine to cut up deer so I sacrificed all my rapalas to them. They get hit a quick trip on the carbide tgen honed then diamond then finished on a strop. I use Jeff white knives and a strop is all I need.

tomturkey · « **Reply #28 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 08:36 AM »

The RADA sharpener I use costs around $8.00. Just like there knifes it is great.

missoulafish · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 22, 2016, 01:10 PM »

That Rada looks like another scraper.

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Author Topic: Knife Sharpener? (Read 4227 times)