IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Ice Shack Tips => Topic started by: WalleyeBird on Oct 23, 2018, 06:13 PM
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Hello All,
I am new to IceShanty and am making my first post here. I've been lurking a lot trying to come up with the best ideas for how to build my ice shack. As an intro, I am from Central Wisconsin and am looking to build a sleeper shack. I like to go up to LOTW, Mille Lacs, etc. So 8-10HR rides would be common for this shack. Therefore it needs to be as light/trailerable as possible.
I have a 8 1/2 by 10 Tilt bed snowmobile trailer that I am thinking of using as the tow method. Am aiming at a 8x7 plus 3' v-nose to help with windage. Probably 6' interior height. I would like to make it fishable for 4 people and sleep at least 2 if not 4 (with bunks). Does this size seem big enough?
For construction:
Walls will be 2x2 studs 16" OC and 1/2" rigid insulation clapped under Steel siding. Is it worth upgrading to 1" foam on the walls? Price difference is negligible, but I think I'm going to lose rigidity having the sheeting so far away from the studs. Is clapping a bad idea in general? I just didnt want to mess with cutting and sealing foam between studs (plus thermal bridging).
Roof I am leaning towards flat EPDM over 1/2" Chip on 2x4's 16 OC. I am thinking doing rubber will help with windage over a steel roof because of the needed pitch (added height) with steel. I am also thinking steel has no "great" way of sealing the edges for when you do that much highway travel. Only drawback of rubber is that it will likely be heavier (+sticky snow). Would then be insulating ceiling with R11 and sheeting ceiling with 1/4" chip.
For a floor I am thinking 1/2" Treated Ply over 2x4's 16 OC. Is it worth trying to insulate the floor? Especially with holes cut out of it for fishing?
I know most recommend 2x12 skids, but would it be easier to just trailer all the way out and slide it off once arrived? If it's not "skidding" that much, 2x8 or even 2x6 should be adequate?
Then comes my biggest dilemma, how to heat it? Endgame is a direct vent wall furnace. Just not sure I can double the price of my shack for that feature quite yet. I do not have a great source of wood and being a sleeper, I would like the convenience of not stoking a wood stove all the time either. Could do Vent free gas, but I hate to do all that insulation and wind up needing vents/windows open all the time anyway (plus safety while sleeping). So I'm left with Gas powered (wood type) stove. Found them cheap enough through NuWay and those seem to be my best idea so far. Just afraid of how much gas these will burn with 1/2 the heat going out the pipe. Anybody have any experience with these? Stove would likely be in the V-Nose.
Is it foolish to think I could build a barn door on the back and haul the ATV inside the shack, while trailering? Just thinking it would be nice to keep it out of the elements during transport. Only issue I see is safely securing it along with overall trailer capacity.
Please, Any advice would be appreciated. Is it too big to trailer? Gonna need to be sturdier? Am I over my head? Haha. I'm trying to go into this as informed as I can.
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First WB, welcome to the Shanty! There's plenty of good folks here with a wealth of experience and opinions. Please visit your profile and add your location to it, Central WI is fine, just so everyone knows where you're at. Sometimes your geography has a bearing on answers.
I'm only going to comment on a couple of things: heat - whatever you choose vent it. Life's too short to risk not staying on the "fun side". Current opinions for sleepers seem to lean toward an LP fueled forced air deal (think RV). Sometimes you can find a junker camper you can scavenge usable items from.
Your "barn door" idea is one my previous co-worker had except his folded down and doubled as the ramp. I liked it...
Last thing. Maybe choose to go a little bigger than you think. I promise you will not be disappointed. If you build small you will most likely reach a point where you wish... ::) I've been pondering short term storage and an impending move to Three Lakes WI. My brain has me shopping for a 7 - 8 x 16 enclosed. By the time I pay for offsite storage and moving costs I'll own the trailer. Maaaybe it'll become a sleeper. Time will tell.
BTW, LBDN is a great ice fishing destination that begs for a sleeper and is much closer than MN. Just throwin' it out there.
Good luck!
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Thanks for the welcome! I am in the Wausau area actually. I've been around many forums before, just finally starting to get serious about ice fishing again!
I've considered a junker camper furnace but am trying to stay away from required power. I have heard mixed reviews about battery life and I don't own a generator to recharge. That likely will change eventually, but I don't want to plan on it.
I know going bigger is definitely preferred, but I'm kind of limited by my trailer size (I already own the trailer). I have considered doing like you said, converting a 7x16 to a sleeper. But for long term I'd like an all Aluminum one, and those are SPENDY.
And I know LBDN is definitely closer. I've been meaning to head that way, but a lot of my buddies are from the western half of the state and its closer to to MN. Have definitely been not so impressed the last few years with LOTW so we're gonna try something different for sure. Just also don't have much of an idea on where to even start there.
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Hello All,
I am new to IceShanty and am making my first post here. I've been lurking a lot trying to come up with the best ideas for how to build my ice shack. As an intro, I am from Central Wisconsin and am looking to build a sleeper shack. I like to go up to LOTW, Mille Lacs, etc. So 8-10HR rides would be common for this shack. Therefore it needs to be as light/trailerable as possible.
I have a 8 1/2 by 10 Tilt bed snowmobile trailer that I am thinking of using as the tow method. Am aiming at a 8x7 plus 3' v-nose to help with windage. Probably 6' interior height. I would like to make it fishable for 4 people and sleep at least 2 if not 4 (with bunks). Does this size seem big enough?
For construction:
Walls will be 2x2 studs 16" OC and 1/2" rigid insulation clapped under Steel siding. Is it worth upgrading to 1" foam on the walls? Price difference is negligible, but I think I'm going to lose rigidity having the sheeting so far away from the studs. Is clapping a bad idea in general? I just didnt want to mess with cutting and sealing foam between studs (plus thermal bridging).
Roof I am leaning towards flat EPDM over 1/2" Chip on 2x4's 16 OC. I am thinking doing rubber will help with windage over a steel roof because of the needed pitch (added height) with steel. I am also thinking steel has no "great" way of sealing the edges for when you do that much highway travel. Only drawback of rubber is that it will likely be heavier (+sticky snow). Would then be insulating ceiling with R11 and sheeting ceiling with 1/4" chip.
For a floor I am thinking 1/2" Treated Ply over 2x4's 16 OC. Is it worth trying to insulate the floor? Especially with holes cut out of it for fishing?
I know most recommend 2x12 skids, but would it be easier to just trailer all the way out and slide it off once arrived? If it's not "skidding" that much, 2x8 or even 2x6 should be adequate?
Then comes my biggest dilemma, how to heat it? Endgame is a direct vent wall furnace. Just not sure I can double the price of my shack for that feature quite yet. I do not have a great source of wood and being a sleeper, I would like the convenience of not stoking a wood stove all the time either. Could do Vent free gas, but I hate to do all that insulation and wind up needing vents/windows open all the time anyway (plus safety while sleeping). So I'm left with Gas powered (wood type) stove. Found them cheap enough through NuWay and those seem to be my best idea so far. Just afraid of how much gas these will burn with 1/2 the heat going out the pipe. Anybody have any experience with these? Stove would likely be in the V-Nose.
Is it foolish to think I could build a barn door on the back and haul the ATV inside the shack, while trailering? Just thinking it would be nice to keep it out of the elements during transport. Only issue I see is safely securing it along with overall trailer capacity.
Please, Any advice would be appreciated. Is it too big to trailer? Gonna need to be sturdier? Am I over my head? Haha. I'm trying to go into this as informed as I can.
Being Light weight can cost $ or other design considerations. I've been working on a 6x10 wheel house in my head for a while. My goal is sub 1000 lbs.
For framing I would suggest you go 2x3 with 24" OC spacing. My current wheel house I used 2x3 16OC and it was really over kill. For insulation you really don't want to cheap here. Spray foam would be best because you would not believe the strength you get from it! If not go at least 1.5" pink foam & cut it 1" shorter than the cavity and great stuff around the outside. It will add some strength and will be nice and warm.
2x4's should work ok for 6' shack but I would put a center skid down if you go 8' wide.
for flooring if you plan to put an atv in it than I would not go 1/2 do 3/4"
Yes insulate the floor if you want to take off your shoes. it makes a big difference! My son is barefoot most times in our shack ::)
for roofing I use 2x4 16" OC, 3/8 cdx ply, with rubber roof and then its spray foamed I would do this again. But put some pitch to it even if its only an inch or 2 of slope. Flat roofs suck and will always leak over time.
Don't skimp on a heater. Your life isn't worth saving a couple hundred bucks, get a vented heater! They make ones that don't use power like empire https://www.amazon.com/HouseWarmer-Slim-Profile-Direct-Heater-Blower/dp/B00PX1H338/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540485524&sr=8-14&keywords=vented+propane+heater
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I definitely can see the merit to 2x3’s at 24oc. I absolutely hate working with 2x2’s anyway so I think I’ll definitely go that way.
I love the spray foam idea. But I’m just not sure the price point is gonna be there. Haven’t done any actual shopping around though.
I definitely see what you mean about the third skid for 8’ wide. Is that the norm? For hauling the atv it’s probably a good idea anyway. But is it hard to get off the ice then? Obviously you wouldn’t be able to chisel it out from the side then if needed.
Those heaters are exactly what I dream of having. Now I’m just kinda keeping my eye out for a used one maybe. Do they come up often?
The more I think about this project and the more I see, I don’t think it’s gonna be big enough. To fish 8 holes plus having a heater just doesn’t add up. I’m thinking I’d have to go the full 8x10 trailer to have room and I’m not sure that will trailer well. Might just have to look at some other options.
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I don't know what you all use your 8x10 trailer for but if it were me I would sell the snowmobile trailer and scratch up the cash for a used enclosed trailer. There are so many advantages, such as starting at the lake you don't have the load unload time. Especially if you plan on strapping the wheeler down inside of the shack you have to strap down after winching the shack on. Also the enclosed trailer can be camped in the off season, or used as a storage unit keeping your wheeler and gear out of the elements. I don't know what a used enclosed can be had for but I will say that when I built a big sleeper shack out of a pop up camper I had nearly $1500 in materials and all the time to build. I love that shack but sure wish it trailered down the road like an enclosed would.
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12 to 15k btu vented furnaces can be had for pretty cheap.Commonly used in truck campers and hard top tent trailers. No power required, but being a sleeper you'll probably have a battery on board. A computer fan will move a decent amount of air with very little current draw.
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NU way propane stoves are pretty affordable direct vent options
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I don't know what you all use your 8x10 trailer for but if it were me I would sell the snowmobile trailer and scratch up the cash for a used enclosed trailer. There are so many advantages, such as starting at the lake you don't have the load unload time. Especially if you plan on strapping the wheeler down inside of the shack you have to strap down after winching the shack on. Also the enclosed trailer can be camped in the off season, or used as a storage unit keeping your wheeler and gear out of the elements. I don't know what a used enclosed can be had for but I will say that when I built a big sleeper shack out of a pop up camper I had nearly $1500 in materials and all the time to build. I love that shack but sure wish it trailered down the road like an enclosed would.
Yeah I think you may be on to what I really should wind up doing. I have been trying to put up an estimate for what it will cost and all in I’m over a thousand for sure. Sell the trailer for $800 and you’re halfway there anyway. We don’t currently use the trailer for anything an enclosed wouldn’t also work for. I’m just concerned that I won’t be happy with the height of an enclosed trailer? I’d like to jig out of the shack.
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NU way propane stoves are pretty affordable direct vent options
These are exactly what I was considering if I couldn’t find a good used empire. Just haven’t heard any reviews on them. Are they efficient? Easy to control temp wise? Just worried about gas consumption mainly.
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I'm not really familiar with the standard height of an enclosed, most I've been in mattered at the back door where some I have to duck my head and some I can walk in confidently. Once inside standing hasn't been a problem. Although I've certainly seen smaller versions I wouldn't be able to stand in. Around here these trailer shacks are getting very popular. All you need is a saw and some pvc or pail slides to be fishable. From there at your convenience the sky is the limit as far as pimping it out goes. And the fishing is super run and gun if you will. Pack the shack with your essentials for an over nighter. Snacks, brews, bait, bedding, auger, tackle, etc. ( find a receiver for your hitch that keeps the shack level) leave the truck hooked up. Head to a spot, drill from inside the shack. If there is nothing there, pull your slides and pull to the next spot. No packing up, re arranging, just pull the slides and ride.
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I'm not really familiar with the standard height of an enclosed, most I've been in mattered at the back door where some I have to duck my head and some I can walk in confidently. Once inside standing hasn't been a problem. Although I've certainly seen smaller versions I wouldn't be able to stand in. Around here these trailer shacks are getting very popular. All you need is a saw and some pvc or pail slides to be fishable. From there at your convenience the sky is the limit as far as pimping it out goes. And the fishing is super run and gun if you will. Pack the shack with your essentials for an over nighter. Snacks, brews, bait, bedding, auger, tackle, etc. ( find a receiver for your hitch that keeps the shack level) leave the truck hooked up. Head to a spot, drill from inside the shack. If there is nothing there, pull your slides and pull to the next spot. No packing up, re arranging, just pull the slides and ride.
Sorry I didn’t specify. Height from the ice. Not sure how much clearance it is from the ice typically but I hate to get a trophy fish on and not be able to get it from the lake. I suppose you could cut a bigger, rectangle fishing hole and do a larger slides like maybe a cut out tote? Then at least you can slide the fish onto some space on the ice before trying to lift it 18” up a tight pail slide. I fish alone often enough so having someone else to grab the fish isn’t always easy.
The ability to stay hooked up and be able to run and gun is a huge plus though!
What size would be best for this kind of trailer setup? Single vs tandem? I like the idea of single because of less worry about bearings and tires etc. but on a single the biggest you’ll get is a 7x12 or a 6x14 typically. Not sure if it’s worth saving for a tandem 7x16 or bigger?
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I like the tote idea! I would think with 6" to a foot of open ice around the hole a guy should be able to easily enough get a bent arm gill hold of his fish. I have 10" pvc and just gaff the walleyes I intend to keep, otherwise carefully grab the ones going back best I can. Whitebass, perch and most everything else gets hoisted up with no problem. There are a few guys with some kind of modified scoop rigged up that as soon as the fish has come up from the bottom of the ice, they rotate the skimmer and it closes the bottom of the hole. I haven't put a lot of thought into it but it seems like a decent diy project.
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I definitely can see the merit to 2x3’s at 24oc. I absolutely hate working with 2x2’s anyway so I think I’ll definitely go that way.
I love the spray foam idea. But I’m just not sure the price point is gonna be there. Haven’t done any actual shopping around though.
I definitely see what you mean about the third skid for 8’ wide. Is that the norm? For hauling the atv it’s probably a good idea anyway. But is it hard to get off the ice then? Obviously you wouldn’t be able to chisel it out from the side then if needed.
Those heaters are exactly what I dream of having. Now I’m just kinda keeping my eye out for a used one maybe. Do they come up often?
The more I think about this project and the more I see, I don’t think it’s gonna be big enough. To fish 8 holes plus having a heater just doesn’t add up. I’m thinking I’d have to go the full 8x10 trailer to have room and I’m not sure that will trailer well. Might just have to look at some other options.
Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6
I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.
I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.
FYI standard height of an enclosed trailer is 6 foot, extended use to be and additional 6" but with all the UTV's hitting the market they may have revised that up to 7 or more feet being most utility UTV's won't fit under a 6' door. If your going to build folding bunk beds go with a 7' tall wall height. Its much easier to have a nice sitting height and still have a decent sized bed.
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I am running a 8.5 x 16 h and h enclosed trailer with v front as a wheel house. Insulated floor walls and ceiling with pink foam board installed a 16000btu forced air heater and put 6 catch cover hole s down the center with drop tubes. Works great.
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I like the tote idea! I would think with 6" to a foot of open ice around the hole a guy should be able to easily enough get a bent arm gill hold of his fish. I have 10" pvc and just gaff the walleyes I intend to keep, otherwise carefully grab the ones going back best I can. Whitebass, perch and most everything else gets hoisted up with no problem. There are a few guys with some kind of modified scoop rigged up that as soon as the fish has come up from the bottom of the ice, they rotate the skimmer and it closes the bottom of the hole. I haven't put a lot of thought into it but it seems like a decent diy project.
Scoop honestly never crossed my mind. That’s a great idea! Until I get a big slot and it’s below the scoop. Haha.
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Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6
I know spray would definitely be the best thing for this. Didn’t realize open cell held water. Just hard to justify that kind of money.
I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.
Thank you for the real world gas consumption numbers. Now at least I have an idea what to expect. A forced air furnace might wind up being my answer. I’ll probably wind up with a generator by the time I’m done investing anyway so it might be easier to just go forced air.
I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.
I’ve seen his site. His drop down frames are surprisingly affordable. Just not sure about the long term reliability of a steel frame. I’m an aluminum kind of guy. If I were to buy an enclosed it would be aluminum. Just don’t want to worry about painting it so often or worrying about it corroding away.
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I am running a 8.5 x 16 h and h enclosed trailer with v front as a wheel house. Insulated floor walls and ceiling with pink foam board installed a 16000btu forced air heater and put 6 catch cover hole s down the center with drop tubes. Works great.
Heater about the right size? What thickness of foam? Ever wish it was a crank down? I definitely see the benefit of a rigid axle and a standard trailer.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/DJjVDfDV/BD3-EA6-C7-84-EE-4494-8-CC7-6-FD74877032-F.jpg)
Well change of plans. I picked this up today for $275. Figured it was a good price for all aluminum. It’s not perfect and I’d of hoped for a little bigger but I will make it work. It is a 4.5x8 deck.
I plan to make a house overtop the wheel wells on this. Would overlap the sides by 1’ on each side making an overall 7’ wide trailer. Also plan to make a v front as well. Going to put hatches down one side in the overhang for fishing. The other side overhang will have a double fold up couch/bed and counter/cabinet. Im thinking a double fold to allow the atv to still fit on the aluminum floor for transport. It will fish and sleep 2 (me and the mrs) hopefully comfortably. The main door will be the full width 4.5’ wide to allow the atv to fit.
Also only going to build about 5’ high so it will fit in a 7’ door. Without worrying about bunks to fit people I don’t think the shorter ceiling will be too much of an issue?
Going to start with a buddy heater and cracked windows until I can afford a wall furnace or nuway gas stove.
My biggest question is that it sits on 20.5x10 tires that could be replaced. Is it a bad idea to buy shorter/narrower 5.7x8’s to try and get closer to the ice?
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This is what I've done out of snowmobile trailer although mine was not aluminum, i built it over the wheels like you plan to. I don't have pictures of it finished but thought the progress images would help. hope these pics will get your wheels turning. If you have any questions on specifics let me know. Also I mines a sleeper for cots and I plan to pull mine with the truck
(https://i.postimg.cc/rD9ZtSq5/IMG-20171130-075656526.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rD9ZtSq5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2qcH0rb6/IMG-20171201-130725978.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qcH0rb6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kk86Y0LK/IMG-20171202-154848325.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Kk86Y0LK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dL24z8kg/IMG-20180104-112443189.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dL24z8kg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cv5YjHmV/IMG-20180324-160418177.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cv5YjHmV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJkmD5Ns/IMG-20180322-135300649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJkmD5Ns)
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This is what I've done out of snowmobile trailer although mine was not aluminum, i built it over the wheels like you plan to. I don't have pictures of it finished but thought the progress images would help. hope these pics will get your wheels turning. If you have any questions on specifics let me know. Also I mines a sleeper for cots and I plan to pull mine with the truck
(https://i.postimg.cc/rD9ZtSq5/IMG-20171130-075656526.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rD9ZtSq5)
Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything you’d do differently?
My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?
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Not sure where your from or what stores they have around you but Menards has smaller spray foam kits just make sure whatever you buy or have done its closed cell foam so you don't have the foam sucking up moisture.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/foam-rubberized-sealant/froth-pak-trade-200-foam-sealant-kit/346963/p-1444435970305-c-7937.htm?tid=-6827414169127705912&ipos=6
I know spray would definitely be the best thing for this. Didn’t realize open cell held water. Just hard to justify that kind of money.
I've seen a few empires come and go used. If you want less expensive go the RV furnace route https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-NT-16SEQ-MOTORHOME-NON-DUCTED-FURNACE/dp/B00T6KP9HY/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1540556813&sr=8-14&keywords=rv+furnace
As for consumption I can go about 48 hours on a 30 lb tank of propane in my 8x16 house @ -20*F At around 0 to +10 I can go 72-100 hours. That's with a 30K BTU furnace.
Thank you for the real world gas consumption numbers. Now at least I have an idea what to expect. A forced air furnace might wind up being my answer. I’ll probably wind up with a generator by the time I’m done investing anyway so it might be easier to just go forced air.
I've never had a Skid house so I can't speak specifically on using one. Honestly in your case I think a wheel house would suit your needs much better. I bought my Frame from this guy. http://www.miltonablacksmith.com/trailers.html He's a great guy to deal with and builds a couple hundred frames a year I bet.
I’ve seen his site. His drop down frames are surprisingly affordable. Just not sure about the long term reliability of a steel frame. I’m an aluminum kind of guy. If I were to buy an enclosed it would be aluminum. Just don’t want to worry about painting it so often or worrying about it corroding away.
If you want it to last have it galvanized. its the only coating that coats inside and out side of the tubing. There's plenty of 60-80 year old fence post around to speak for what hot dip galvanize can do. I've also had Aluminum trailers but I'm a little gun shy of them on the ice. Everyone I've had has cracked at one place or another.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/DJjVDfDV/BD3-EA6-C7-84-EE-4494-8-CC7-6-FD74877032-F.jpg)
Well change of plans. I picked this up today for $275. Figured it was a good price for all aluminum. It’s not perfect and I’d of hoped for a little bigger but I will make it work. It is a 4.5x8 deck.
I plan to make a house overtop the wheel wells on this. Would overlap the sides by 1’ on each side making an overall 7’ wide trailer. Also plan to make a v front as well. Going to put hatches down one side in the overhang for fishing. The other side overhang will have a double fold up couch/bed and counter/cabinet. Im thinking a double fold to allow the atv to still fit on the aluminum floor for transport. It will fish and sleep 2 (me and the mrs) hopefully comfortably. The main door will be the full width 4.5’ wide to allow the atv to fit.
Also only going to build about 5’ high so it will fit in a 7’ door. Without worrying about bunks to fit people I don’t think the shorter ceiling will be too much of an issue?
Going to start with a buddy heater and cracked windows until I can afford a wall furnace or nuway gas stove.
My biggest question is that it sits on 20.5x10 tires that could be replaced. Is it a bad idea to buy shorter/narrower 5.7x8’s to try and get closer to the ice?
I'd look at the weight capacity of the tire first! As I said above your going to have a hard time making folding bunks in a 5' tall shack.
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Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything you’d do differently?
My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?
I built
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Cool build! Know the weight of it? Anything you’d do differently?
My only question is what was the idea with the floor framing? Is it more rigid that way?
Yes and it's also treated wood to last longer and beefs up the trailer frame as well so yeah more structual and durable was what I was going for as well as something easier to build off of.
I built
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I'd look at the weight capacity of the tire first! As I said above your going to have a hard time making folding bunks in a 5' tall shack.
Yeah I think we’ll see how these tires do and how I like it before I try to make it a low rider. And the more I played with a tape measure, a 5’ ceiling is just not going to happen. I wanted to be able to back this thing in the shed for summer but it’s probably not worth it. It’ll be built out of exterior materials anyhow so it’ll be fine. Gonna go with 6 or 6’6” walls.
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That sounds like a good plan. FYI here's a good chart for trailer tires. I'd say your biggest problem will be weight capacity with wanting to put a wheeler inside.
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailer-tire-sizing-tables.aspx
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That’s a handy chart! Good to know the overall heights too. I was looking awful stupid trying to compare heights with a tape measure the other day.
It currently has in load range C’s which are rated for 1100 a piece. I think I may be approaching that even. Assume a 900 pound wet weight wheeler and a 300 pound trailer. I’ve gotta keep the shack under 1000 lbs or so including the stove and propane just to make it. I may end up with a load range D 18.5”x8 but that’s probably my only other option.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/R371xb51/593-D437-C-7-A87-4-DE8-9-FE2-5088-B721131-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R371xb51)
Started work this week. Figured out why many of you prefer steel construction for ice shacks. When I loaded my atv on it to take the trailer for a test ride I heard something clunk. Finally found the culprit. Piece of frame bracing broke almost completely off underneath the trailer. Oh gosh I hope this isn’t a sign of what’s to come with this thing. I’m going to bolt this piece back to the frame and add some aluminum angle to reinforce around it.
After seeing this I’m really second guessing loading the Atv into it. That is just a lot of weight on a light frame like this. Plus it adds a lot of complexities to the construction. Probably just a better idea to ramp the atv into the truck after all.
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On a better note. I got some work started on the shack! Bolted treated 2x4’s to the frame to act as a base for the walls. Will be putting pillars up in each corner of the trailer so these boards won’t be holding any of the snow load. Just the weight of the walls. (Think mushroom style shack). Braced each corner with 1/4” corner brackets and bolts too to sturdy it up. The front V is laid down just as an example of my idea.
(https://i.postimg.cc/23hxQ6X9/622-E803-A-4-AE6-4773-9017-1718-D53955-F5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23hxQ6X9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LYZ3064X/6717569-C-87-BE-4-C2-C-A913-9-C02-CC6-ABF5-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYZ3064X)
(https://i.postimg.cc/H8w4dZy1/DD2-F51-ED-50-BA-4931-ADCF-F540-A0-F9399-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8w4dZy1)
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that frame was busted long before you got it. That said I wouldn't build anything until you got that fixed properly by having a patch welded on it.
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On a better note. I got some work started on the shack! Bolted treated 2x4’s to the frame to act as a base for the walls. Will be putting pillars up in each corner of the trailer so these boards won’t be holding any of the snow load. Just the weight of the walls. (Think mushroom style shack). Braced each corner with 1/4” corner brackets and bolts too to sturdy it up. The front V is laid down just as an example of my idea.
(https://i.postimg.cc/23hxQ6X9/622-E803-A-4-AE6-4773-9017-1718-D53955-F5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23hxQ6X9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LYZ3064X/6717569-C-87-BE-4-C2-C-A913-9-C02-CC6-ABF5-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYZ3064X)
(https://i.postimg.cc/H8w4dZy1/DD2-F51-ED-50-BA-4931-ADCF-F540-A0-F9399-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8w4dZy1)
That looks like green treat lumber you used. FYI green treat lumber corrodes aluminum at a pretty fast rate. If your set on using green treat make sure you isolate the two materials from touching.
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Do you think just bolting it back to the frame would be adequate (if I don’t haul the wheeler in it)? I hate to admit it but I know you’re right. Just not sure how much aluminum welding would run? Should I push for tig? I’ve heard some people run mig on aluminum.
And I didn’t realize those two didn’t mix. Well that’s what forums are for! I just wanted treated for the exposed pieces to avoid rot. Would Doug fir be better or something like that? Or just don’t worry about it. Just a good thing I didn’t get too far I suppose.
Cut trusses last night by cutting pitch into 2x6’s.
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That cross support looks like it was repaired once before. No I would not try and bolt it. I would think Mig should be fine if the person knows how to weld aluminum.
As for the lumber I get why you chose green and don't disagree no need to replace just isolate. You can put almost anything between provided its non conductive and won't absorb moisture. You could use sill plate foam or heck even a heavy duty packing tape. White oak would be another good choice but its expensive for what your doing.
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I’m impressed at how much you picked up out of that little picture. Yes I was concerned that it had been repaired once before. The passenger side of the trailer has a 3/16 flat stock welded above this channel stock brace. Drivers side is only the channel stock welded to each piece the long way. The brace appears to be split in the middle and welded there. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why they’d use a split brace like that. But if it cracked once already and say they lost that flat stock, it makes more sense now.
I am considering having this one welded back on as well as bolted but then getting a whole nother full width brace welded on near this to help with rigidity long term. Starting to wonder if I should just dump this thing and find a different one. It is clearly just built very light and I don’t want a problem child.
And I think I’ll replace this board. It’s only a 20 minute change out at this point and to piece of mind and $10 of lumber I think it’s worth it.
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Well.... back to the drawing boards. Took the treated off quick to hopefully replace and said to heck with it. Flipped it up on its side to get a better look at the underside of the trailer.
Long story short... I will be selling this trailer. There’s good reason I got it so cheap. Just gonna sell it for what I paid. Disclosing that it’s a yard/brush trailer of course.
I found a welding shop that would do as much work as needed for $65 an hour but with the amount of cracked welds I’m just money ahead to get something else.
This will probably be a 10 page thread before I get this project to anything I can fish out of. Haha
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As much as it sucks to have to start over and look for a different trailer, it's better you found out now that it had problems instead of later. Good luck with your pursuit of a different trailer and keep everyone up to date with your project!
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Yeah the more I look at it, I’m glad I wasn’t further along when I did this. Then I’d feel obligated to fix it. I have a ton of interest in it already. I guess people love the idea of a deal.
Just really thinking maybe I should look at steel a little closer. At least then I can paint it every so often and don’t have to worry so much about it being brittle
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https://wausau.craigslist.org/spo/d/coleman-ice-shack-heater/6732032156.html
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Yeah I emailed the guy about that as soon as it posted. He never got back to me. Not sure what the deal is?
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I made an inquiry the other day on a Craig's add and never got a response. I checked my spam folder and sure enough they had gotten back to me I just never received it in my inbox. Not saying you haven't checked it, I have certainly experienced the no response adds. But if you haven't looked in your spam folder it's worth a peek!
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Well you hit the nail on the head with that one. He responded the next day. Oops.
Also, sold the trailer today. Gosh I’ve never gotten that many inquiries on something before. Who’d of guessed there’d be that much interest in a cheap trailer that was even said needed work? Only lost $20 on the deal. Could’ve made my money back but was sick of dealing with people.
Well time to think up a better idea. I’m back to either a skid house on my tilt trailer or a new trailer frame to build off of. Starting to think maybe Miltona blacksmith isn’t the worst deal. Might as well save up and spend the extra ~$500 for a crank down and get something that is everything that you want
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Skid house on the tilt trailer. Gets you a lot closer to the ice, less wind to block under, easiee to land fish. I put long dowels under mine for on the trailer. Makes it so easy to load and unload. Little cheap electric winch, no effort.
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As a side note, just installed an old Hydro Flame vented camper furnace. No more tripping over the Buddy heater or getting too close with the line.
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What is your budget?
Last year I built a 7x8 that can seat up to 5 on bench seats (or 6 if there was no wood stove), has a fold down bed that sleeps 2 and a fold down table for cooking, eating, playing cards etc. It was designed to use the minimum amount of material possible to keep it lightweight while still being structurally sound. Fully insulated with R6 rigid insulation the total cost was about $700 CDN (about $500 for just the lumber and plywood, screws and glue). It fits on just about any trailer or is easy to winch in the back of a full size truck box.
I use the cylinder stove from my wall tent and light a bit of cedar kindling and burn Canawick pressed wood logs that, with the stove fully dampened down, have close to an 8 hour burn time so I can sleep through the night. None of the hassle of spitting wood, the only issue was about 1/4" creosote buildup after 6 weekends and a few day trips. No problems keeping warm in temps down to -25C, in fact there were a few nights we slept on top of our sleeping bags.
Check out my build here https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=348765.0
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Your build was one I read through researching my build. Looks like a nice shack! The build I started was going to be an 8x7 as well with pretty similar layout.
With my budget I’m just really not sure what to do. I’d really love a crankdown wheelhouse longterm, but can’t afford one till next year at the earliest and if I want a nice one, probably two years. So I’m just not sure if I keep running portables until I can do it right is a better option at this point. As of right now I’m trying to stay under $1k probably.
Been trying to source things through ReStore and marketplace now and seeing where that takes me.
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Well I took home the heater from that Craigslist post. $60 for a direct vent 10k btu heater i thought was pretty good. Thermocouple and everything works. Just had to pick up a hose and some fittings. It’s pretty old but hopefully trusty.
So what’s the idea behind propane regulators? I know my buddy runs a line straight off the 20lb to his buddy heater. The line I bought to run this has a low pressure regulator. Not sure if it makes a difference?
Burns good!
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8KnNpQ1/C3-B66782-7-FFB-4261-B010-C2-D80-B9-EB1-B0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8KnNpQ1)
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Buddy heaters have a built in regulator. Just buy a hose and regulator for a gas grill. There under 20 bucks at most places. Good choice starting with a different trailer. Like the old saying goes you have to build your house on a good foundation...
You can't really go wrong with the Miltona frames. I'm very happy with mine and have no problem recommending them.
Here's an idea for you to get buy. Get the miltona frame, put down a good flooring, and build a simple 2x2 frame and wrap it in boat wrap for the year until you can afford to build what you want. That way you have a great foundation that can haul your wheeler...
I also have 5 used catch covers I'd sell for cheap if you ever get to St. Paul area.
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Well if I ever get something going then I might take you up on the catch covers. How long is the turn around on miltona frames? Are they painted or what kind of rust proofing does he have?
Also, are there any threads on how people are venting these direct vent heaters? Mine has a air in/exhaust out the back so it is for a through wall type vent. It is a 3” inside and 5 or 6” outside pipe. All the exhaust caps I’ve seen so far for the in/out are quite pricey. Does it need to be elbowed up at all to make a chimney effect? I know some units require a vertical run but I don’t have any literature with this one.
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It all depends on how busy he is. He was 4 weeks out when I got my frame. Its best to call him. His frames come in raw steel. He has a local guy that will paint it for some extra $. I chose to have mine hot dipped galvanized.
Direct vent heaters normally have a straight thru wall vent. No Chimney on the new direct vent ones.
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I have no concept of what a frame should cost, nor do I vouch for the make of this brand as I have no experience with any type of crank down but I figured I would pass this along i case you haven't seen it.
https://appleton.craigslist.org/tro/d/64x12-ice-fishing-house-crank/6713698478.html
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The heater just needs a short vent. Needs to be shielded from wind gusts. Large pipe is combustion air intake, small one is exhaust. Just finished the installation of a similar heater on my shack. I'm using a ten lb tank in a rack mounted on the back. My build is posted as Lightweight 8x7, similar to jpohlic build. I did a welded aluminum tube frame.
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It all depends on how busy he is. He was 4 weeks out when I got my frame. Its best to call him. His frames come in raw steel. He has a local guy that will paint it for some extra $. I chose to have mine hot dipped galvanized
I’m thinking galvanized is for sure the way to go. Do you recall how much it was to have done? Is there many shops that can do this or is there a specialty shop?
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The heater just needs a short vent. Needs to be shielded from wind gusts. Large pipe is combustion air intake, small one is exhaust. Just finished the installation of a similar heater on my shack. I'm using a ten lb tank in a rack mounted on the back.
Most of the cheaper caps I’ve seen are for only exhaust pipes (wood stove). The dual intake and exhaust ones are kinda spendy. Is there any kind of magic to this system or can I run a traditional (cheap) single stack and leave the intake open/screened to outside air?
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Best advice would be to visit an rv place, see some older campers, check the design of the heater vents and improvise. Post a pic of the business end of the heater. I boxed the outside portion of mine with some aluminum, sticks out about seven inches. The vent comes off the side off this model.
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Most of the cheaper caps I’ve seen are for only exhaust pipes (wood stove). The dual intake and exhaust ones are kinda spendy. Is there any kind of magic to this system or can I run a traditional (cheap) single stack and leave the intake open/screened to outside air?
I have a RV heater guy that works on pretty much any heater than a normal house furnace and he said most of the direct vent heaters he sees that people have issues with is them not following the MFG's guidelines on stack length in turn most have draft issues. I’m thinking galvanized is for sure the way to go. Do you recall how much it was to have done? Is there many shops that can do this or is there a specialty shop?
Its pretty specialized there's only one company in MN that I know of and its AZZ galvanize. They charge per 100 lbs of whats being plated and have a minimum charge (think it was 4 or 500lbs) so if you know someone else that you can go in with it will drop your costs. Mine was around $400 to galvanize (8x16 + a ramp door) with the size your talking about i doubt you would be over the min fee. FYI if you plan to go this route be sure and tell your frame builder. Each tube has to be vented or they will not coat it because tubing can explode when they put it in the 800* bath of galvanize. Miltona blacksmith knows what to do you just have to tell them that your going to galvanize.
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That’s definitely good to know about galvanizing. I think that’s probably the best bet overall for the a steel frame.
Are there any other frame manufacturors out there like miltona to compare to?
Took a trip up to the cabin today. Scored 2 sheets worth of foam 1” insulation off the side of the road. Also got some rubber from my dad hopefully for a roof. I’m not really sure what it is? Anyone with any input would help. It’s a 9x10 sheet that’s very heavy, probably 1/8 thick and has nylon in it. Markings say EPPR. Is this roofing or would it work for roofing?
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7rwJ60t/F45504-FC-07-CA-406-C-BBB3-3-C0-C6-DB78-E89.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7rwJ60t)
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There are plenty of frame builders but most all of them are more expensive than Miltona...
http://www.tebben.us/product.php?Single-Axle-Crank-Up-Ice-House-Frame-29 (http://www.tebben.us/product.php?Single-Axle-Crank-Up-Ice-House-Frame-29)
https://www.cwweld.net/fish-house-frames (https://www.cwweld.net/fish-house-frames)
This is one of my favorite frame builders. http://www.gstrailers.com/trailers.html (http://www.gstrailers.com/trailers.html)
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Well time to drag this thread up from the grave. I’ve been shopping for a trailer for a long while for cheap and cannot decide on anything. Figured I was just gonna wait another year and save up but after fishing this weekend and doing really well I just had the itch. I have to do something.
So I went back to the drawing boards and figured out how to be a minimalist to do something for cheap. Settled on a 6x6 shack. Will be steel sides and rubber roof. Only doing one window for now to keep costs down and only insulating roof with the foam I already have to begin with.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4Kt095dC/CC495-F8-A-DCE9-475-C-8251-BCC8-BA8221-D9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Kt095dC)
Made the base out of the treated frame I already had built. Bolted on 2x8’s as runners. Set the runners 1 1/2” down on the frame so that I can fasten the steel siding and use the runner as the bottom trim for that. Will spray foam any gaps. Set floor joists at 18” because 24 was too wide and 16 didn’t add up even in a 6’ shack. There are eye bolts on all 4 corners running through the reinforced 1/4” corner bracing. Have heard bad things about running treated as runners so I used standard stud material and made them replaceable.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLsT30Nz/4-FC595-BC-C90-D-41-A5-8946-070-D8-D160-CB2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLsT30Nz)
Moved on to framing. It is kind of a spin on post framing technique. 2x4 corner posts and 2x2 purlins with an extra 2x2 post in the middle. Rafters are cut down 2x6’s 2’ oc and will be sheeted 5/8 cdx with epdm over top.
That’s a rap on day ones progress. Decided to downsize because 80% of the time it will be just me and 99% of the time it will be just me and her.
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Came out of the day with a few questions though.
Since it’s cold what kind of adhesive would work still for the roof. I picked up a few tubes of spirit based glue that is good to - temps. Just wish there were a contact cement that worked below 40 degrees.
Could also just skip gluing completely and redo it right next summer?
Also how bad do you think the steel siding will frost up with zero insulation on it? I planned to add it later when money wasn’t as tight but will it be manageable for the time being? I will be using the vented heater so that should help.
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Pl premium is good down to 40* I believe. Locktite power grab ultimate can cure down to 0* as long as the adhesive is above 40 when you apply it.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_ca_ult/directions/Loctite-Power-Grab-Ultimate-Construction-Adhesive.htm
Frost will be bad with no insulation. Put at least plastic on the inside of the studs until you can afford insulation. Hell just use batt insulation cheap and 1 roll should about do it for you.
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Still moving along on the project. Decided to frame out a removable panel as to make it double as a hunting blind.
Three sheets of steel are up. Sorry no pics.
Curious as to how many people have built in furniture/benches compared to just an open floor plan and foldable chairs? I really am considering building a bench that will include storage underneath to really neaten up the floor space. Just worried that with this size shack that I’ll need all the room I can get?
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Well was short on wood so the hunting blind feature will need to be framed in down the road. Finally decided on a floor plan and mounted the window and framed in the doorway. Planning to make the door big enough so I can store stuff like the snow blower in it during the off season.
Tomorrow the rest of the wall steel goes up and hopefully the roof.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDyjcVC7/9915030-B-8542-441-E-BA15-515018-D4-D925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDyjcVC7)
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Skipped working on the shack today and took the portable out to prefish the shacks future home. Had a good run for an hour or so there. Caught a keeper 15, rebaited and set the tip up back down. I didn’t even get up from kneeling and this 22 trips the flag. Now that’s fun!
(https://i.postimg.cc/6406f5pS/52-CE4-A02-E213-41-EB-B89-C-8-C18-DD295-FBD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6406f5pS)
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Well I worked all day Sunday to finish the wall sheeting and trimming and did the roof today. Had enough cut offs to save one whole sheet of steel so that’s good. Some extra seams now but oh well.
This trim Work and sealing everything for water around the gable end of the roof has been quite the hurdle for me though. I needed a flat surface to seal the rubber roof down to on top of the corregated steel. To do this I wound up buying precut foam for the outside edge of the steel, then clapped a 1x2 over that. Then I just flashed over the whole thing with a 3x3 galvanized angle. The rubber roof is fastened to the 1x2 and is not glued because I figured i can do a better job if I pull it up and redo it next summer. When it’s warmer.
Had extra cut offs of corner trim so the eaves got some custom drip edge too that I think cleans up the look quite a bit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PCwhLsPY/0001-D042-6985-463-D-9227-E7-DF7981-F433.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCwhLsPY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dmx7HP9J/7722082-E-2924-4961-842-B-F215-F825-A4-A9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Dmx7HP9J)
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Looking good, the door off to the side is a great idea. Fold up or down seating would give you options for maximum space for any given situation Some wire shelving around the perimeter at the top of the walls makes for airy storage, great for drying wet items too.
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Another useful addition is a couple of dollar store wire baskets to keep things handy and safe
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Thanks! Yeah wire baskets/shelves is definitely a good idea. Should help for drying stuff out for sure
So I’m debating with myself how to insulate the ceiling. I bought r13 batts that would work and vapor barrier. But I’m just not sure I want to worry about the potential for moisture/mold problems. It should be water tight up there from the roof but during transport I know it’ll probably get some spray up and in the seams of the edges.
May just be better to do all foam. Don’t want to be ripping out $40 worth of batting in a year to replace with the same dollar value of foam anyway. Just figured it would be a better r value with the batts.
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Also what are some better alternatives to plywood for a door? This just looks kinda janky. Only problem is I’m pretty sure I framed it a stupid custom width so no production unit would probably fit
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Some paint and a very large Playboy calender
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looking good! Pinkfoam insulation with great stuff around the edges works great as an alternative to spray foam. Just cut the foam 1" shorter than the height and width and great stuff in place! An insulated steel door would probably be the cheapest alternative door. Or just slap pink foam on the inside of the plywood door and more siding on the outside of it.
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Yeah I think if I painted the plywood next summer it wouldn’t look so bad. The opening is like 29” so idk if I’d be able to find a steel door. That playboy calander isn’t a bad idea either. Haha.
I have enough 1” foam and great stuff to do the ceiling. Just not sure if I should go thicker on the ceiling and use the 1” for the walls. Then again I’ve gotta remind myself that it’s an ice shack every now and again.
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I think painting the door, and maybe either a fake window, or a window the can be opened from the inside might break up the expanse the door seems to make?
A ships port hole window would look tight IMO, could be blacked out, and just opened for looking out, or ventilation..
<°)))>{
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Awesome build by the way!!!
<°)))>{
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I think painting the door, and maybe either a fake window, or a window the can be opened from the inside might break up the expanse the door seems to make?
A ships port hole window would look tight IMO, could be blacked out, and just opened for looking out, or ventilation..
<°)))>{
Yeah the door definitely seems big. I had considered clapping two pieces of plexi on both sides to make a window in the door.
I also have a buddy who’s dad is a window salesman and said he can get me more windows for free. So eventually those will get added too and should help break up the wall.
Thank you for complementing the build btw. If you follow the thread from the beginning I’ve kinda been all over with this build and couldn’t make up my mind. That kinda threw people off my thread I think. But I’ve been trying to stick with it and document it all.
This shack is supposed to just to get me by until I can afford to build a wheel house. But when rings and kids aren’t in the so distant future, I may have this one for longer than expected too.
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Well I’ve been working on it here and there this week. Turns out just mounting the door handles and lock and spring is a major pain (when did they stop selling standard light springs)?
Also when I made the original trusses for the 7’ shack I didn’t cut them down for the 6’ shack and left the 6” eave. Turns out that’s a great spot for a front porch light!
(https://i.postimg.cc/q66GzPr7/1-BC03-A23-6-D89-44-E5-84-CC-6-A873-FBC4793.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q66GzPr7)
Here is the floor plan I wound up with. Turns out there is no good way to sheet a 6x6 floor with 4x8 sheets. Haha. Hole covers hinge up and are made with 5/8 ply cut offs from the roof. Rest of the floor is 3/8 that I had laying around. I was hesitant that it was too thin but once I screwed it down it firmed right up. It’ll work for now anyway. Was also 6” short to get to the hole covers so just picked up a pine board to fill the gap. Oh well. Looks stupid but it’s a $3 fix instead of 2 sheets of 5/8 to do it right.
Still can’t decide where to put the heater yet. Thinking this is the most out of the way
(https://i.postimg.cc/MnHpVq4t/4624-B76-F-DAA2-43-A6-874-F-36-ADDFD91873.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnHpVq4t)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s1PxRn7P/4-F1-C7-ADF-E119-424-D-A83-D-8844-E78-B7-E25.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1PxRn7P)
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When I installed my heater, I put it through the wall. Just the grill, about 1 1/2 inch protrusion into the shack A simple box covers the heater body on the outside. Sure beats the buddy on the floor. Nice build so far.
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While I’m rambling, when installing windows, keep them fairly small and put them at eye level when seated. That way you don’t have to constantly get up to check tip ups
(https://i.postimg.cc/R60D3QCs/66-D8-A7-C9-7690-4022-8-ADA-6-A717-E75-B7-BC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R60D3QCs)
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100% agree with a bump out for the heater!
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Honestly until you mentioned it I completely forgot about the possibility to do a bump out. Usually I think about that for bigger stoves and stuff like that. It would work just as well though in this situation! I’ll have to see what I can come up with. Plus it’ll make insulating that much easier for behind the heater (non existent now).
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The bump is great idea. I was concerned about fishing line brushing up against heater.
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Yeah I was concerned with that too. Just wasn’t sure if it’s better to have it behind you and take up your back rest space. If it’s up there it would likely just be a deadstick/ rattle reel hole anyway was my logic.
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Well I spent tonight trying to figure out the heater. I love the idea of a bump out but at this point in the game I just don’t have time to figure out how I want to do it. I sat at menards for like 2 hours trying to come up with what flashing and what trims I’ll need. I can revisit it next year as I’m no better off now than then to do it.
So then I wasted a bunch of time trying to figure how to do it even as is. Turns out chimney pipe parts are quite expensive. The right stuff for the job was absurd so I pieced it together with cheapo parts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMJDPPxn/8-B80-A4-F2-ED7-D-4-B0-B-831-D-600-E6-AC5-E5-A3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMJDPPxn)
Got it to burn though! Gosh im definitely gonna need to insulate well. She doesn’t throw the most heat and definitely doesn’t warm up the quickest as is (uninsulated).
On the plus side. The chimney works well as an outdoor hand warmer!
Does anybody know if these heater valves are rebuildable? This one is quite stiff and leaks gas if not 100% perfectly set
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If you have 10k input, prob have 7k btu out of the heater. Def have to insulate. I installed i small computer fan in the bottom of mine to help distribute the heat somewhat. Also have a small fan at the ceiling , angled down to push the heat towards the floor. I've got 1" foil backed rigid foam insulation. The 8x7 gets comfy in about 15 minutes.
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So 30% efficiency? I guess that feels about accurate given how hot that chimney is.
But okay I guess that’s something to shoot for. Warm in 15-20 minutes. I didn’t really know what a realistic goal was. Gonna box in the heater tomorrow and start to insulate.
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So I found a used gas valve on eBay that I think may work. Would be around $110 for the whole system including gas valve, pilot, thermopile and thermocouple.
It is an adjustable fireplace style valve so I’m hoping I would be able to turn the valve down enough to make it work properly on my heater.
I’m just assuming I can custom fab the pilot assembly into my heater and it should work then, right? I’m not missing anything am I?
This valve would be extra cool because it is set up for an independent wall thermostat.
Otherwise I guess I’m still back to if anybody knows how to rebuild these gas valves (or if they’re even rebuildable)?
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That fireplace valve might be for natural gas. Different orifice size from propane. Also check the btu rating. a fireplace might be in the 40k btu range, making the orifice size way too big dor your little heater. My opinion , keep looking. You could try a little wd40 on the control knob shaft.
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Well today I started at insulating the shack. Fired up the heater too and with having that and the lantern running the shack heated up quite nicely.
Was able to use up the roadside pick up 1” blue foam on the ceiling and most of 1 wall. This cold weather thing isn’t helping me glue anything though that’s for sure. May have to pick up some of that low temp glue.
It definitely holds heat better now though with the roof and overhangs sealed up better.
I’m really not sure what I wanna do with this gas valve. I found if you just use a channel locks you can operate the valve just fine. The main thing that concerns me though is the nob is fairly loose and if you jiggle it, you can hear/smell it leak. Don’t want it to spring a leak while sleeping or something. It just feels like an o ring is missing or something.
And you are right metalbender. There’s a ton of variables that would make this gas valve swap not work.
I may just have to ditch this heater and eat the $60 I have in it. A better used heater may be a better option. A new one just isn’t in the cards right now.
Spray foam got a little messy on me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8FPrnfXV/F188-E11-E-55-F4-4-A51-86-E3-CA46519-FE019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FPrnfXV)
CO detector went in today too as long as I’m messing with these heaters.
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Call this place: Mikes LP (651) 770-9448. They are buy me and great when it comes to RV furnace stuff.
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Call this place: Mikes LP (651) 770-9448. They are buy me and great when it comes to RV furnace stuff.
I will try them! I throught about trying an HVAC board but they all have big disclaimers that no DIY projects will be commented on. Whether it’s liability or just keeping the tradesman busy who knows
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Well I finally finished the shack for good I think. Been a busy holiday season.
I found one of the liquid nail products is good down to 22 degrees and that worked well for the foam board.
Brought home the atv and trailer and got her loaded up!
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5T0vvxK/2-D9-FB746-8-C40-410-D-8-BDE-24-B95105-F5-C8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5T0vvxK)
Bought a set of atv ramps too and got everything loaded up. Ready to get her on the Eau Pleine. Fished it Sunday night and got a 24.5”.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7fvxVQyw/F6-C14235-8-D70-485-C-A535-AD797-C9612-D1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fvxVQyw)
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<°)))>{
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDGpkm35/IMG-20190101-225802.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDGpkm35)
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Looks good !
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<°)))>{
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDGpkm35/IMG-20190101-225802.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDGpkm35)
That’s pretty unique! Will eventually do something of the like.
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Spent today buttoning up some loose ends. Put in some furniture to try out the lay out. Should fish two people pretty well I’d say.
My flip up hole hatches are eventually gonna need modifying. Can really feel the draft. Gonna need catch covers and some kind of sleeves at some point. Not sure the hole is gonna be big enough to do full sized 5 gallon bucket sleeves.
Hung my hammock too. It’s not gonna be a perfect solution to make it a sleeper but it’s something I already have anyway.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dhWqZQ7t/434-F7-EEA-25-B6-4-F8-F-AA0-E-0311-F7-DBD71-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhWqZQ7t)
Had to replace the battery in my sportsman today too. Has anybody found a good solution to these junk batteries? I got an agm from batteries plus with 2 year warranty. Hope this lasts longer than the last wet cell ones I’ve had.
Plan to take to the ice tomorrow!
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www.motobatt.com
Best battery I've ever had for my Sportsman.
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looks great. If you haven't already you might want to add a diagonal ridge beam to support the hammock. That's a lot of down force applied to your anchor points.
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looks great. If you haven't already you might want to add a diagonal ridge beam to support the hammock. That's a lot of down force applied to your anchor points.
Yeah I wasn’t sure about it as is. It’s a two person hammock but am sure as heck not gonna try that. I laid in it and it seemed okay for now.
As far as a diagonal ridge beam, you mean to go corner to corner along the ceiling right? To help the shack from pulling oblong? Or do you mean angled from corner to floor for the downward pressure?
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So she’s officially set up on the ice now. That was a heck of a project that I hopefully can enjoy starting this weekend.
Setting up was easy enough. Tilted the trailer and she slid right off.
The lake is glare ice everywhere and I’ve read about shacks blowing away or tipping over so I found the most snow I could near my spot and anchored inside with screw in anchors and a ratchet strap.
It is forecasted in the upper 30’s for a few days here so I’m a little worried about it freezing in. Set it on 2x4’s so hopefully that saves me.
As far as the travel went with it, I’d say it pulled as well as I could expect it to. Was strapped to the trailer in all 4 corners and from each eave to the front and back of the trailer as well. Had to test these straps when a deer ran in front of me. All was well though. Shack did not feel heavy at all anyway. Felt comfortable up to 45-50mph. Then the windage really got bad. May modify in the future to make a v front on the back wall.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yjzsg6kp/73585463-812-D-4542-B172-4897-AA1-A803-F.png) (https://postimg.cc/Yjzsg6kp)
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cool project, good memories on the ice
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Nice!
Re: the hammock anchors,
If you think you may be putting too much strain on the shack, it can be tested by stringing up some low stretch cord from your two anchor points, when you get into the hammock, check to see how much slack is introduced into that cord and you will have a pretty good eye for what to do next. If you do get a bunch of slack, I would agree with above and mount some sort of brace from corner to corner above and in line with the direction you're hanging. This brace could also double as a drying rack (1" black pipe or shelf ( 2x4 layed sideways)
As far as the drafty hatch covers go, one idea may be a strip of carpet or truck tire inner tube screwed along the parameter to create a sort of seal.
Nice build BTW, may you spend many hours in it this season!
Jason
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Nice!
Re: the hammock anchors,
If you think you may be putting too much strain on the shack, it can be tested by stringing up some low stretch cord from your two anchor points, when you get into the hammock, check to see how much slack is introduced into that cord and you will have a pretty good eye for what to do next. If you do get a bunch of slack, I would agree with above and mount some sort of brace from corner to corner above and in line with the direction you're hanging. This brace could also double as a drying rack (1" black pipe or shelf ( 2x4 layed sideways)
As far as the drafty hatch covers go, one idea may be a strip of carpet or truck tire inner tube screwed along the parameter to create a sort of seal.
Nice build BTW, may you spend many hours in it this season!
Jason
That is a good idea to test how much it is pulling the shack out of square. Probably just hang Paracord or something like that to test?
I’m not so sold on the hammock anyway for the long run. I’ll eventually buy a cot or something like that for sleeping. I just already had the hammock laying around. It’s not the most comfortable in the first place. Haha.
As for the draft I think a strip of carpet or something like you mentioned on the open sides is a good idea! Better than banking it in and having the snow freeze on me
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Fished out of her for the first time last night. Was a slow day of fishing but nice to be out and have the lady come with.
Was over 40 degrees 2 days in a row and sunny. When we got there the shack was in about 2” of standing water with dry ice around it. I guess the green absorbs some heat. My ice anchor idea didn’t work well either. Got there and they conducted the heat down and melted the ice around them. Were just hanging there. Oh well.
Another thing I found was with the fishing hatch open the wind came up there and would push out the door. Had to come up with an extra bungy to hold the door. Some kind of wind block or hole sleeve will be necessary.
Lastly, my custom chimney venting doesn’t work great when the wind is blowing at that side. Blows in and through the pilot lighting hole so it’s very hard to light it.
Also ran out of propane towards the end of the night so she wasn’t so thrilled about that anyway.
All in all, I’d say we both liked it though! Brought home one keeper anyway.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3y5J8VrC/89981691-D459-4067-A480-093-C688-D1-DE6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3y5J8VrC)
Plans for next summer are already in the works though. Going to add another window right next to the current one. Also think I’m going to build on. Want to make a V front that’s an extra roughly 3 feet longer. Will move the heater to the front of the V then. Once that’s done I think it’ll be spacious enough and easier to tow. Will likely try to find a clearanced new heater this spring some time too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2q89Z85z/64-AB8087-6721-4-A64-B9-C0-3-BF874-DE389-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q89Z85z)
Little cramped once you add fishing supplies
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKcH1Wf7/9429-EA46-A115-4725-9-A3-B-9-C060362-FE6-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKcH1Wf7)
Would like a second window so we can both watch for tip ups and not be tripping over each other
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Glad you got out there!
Hammocks do have a fiddle factor about them for sure. If everything isnt just right the aren't as comfy. And you need alot of under insulation, being a couple pads or a thick under quilt.
Standing water is probably from the bowl your shanty created by sinking the ice a little bit. As you probably know already, ice doesn't get its strength in a manor similar to a bridge, but more like a floating barge. The shanty's weight pushes down slightly causing the water that's on the ice to pool around it. The thicker the ice, the less the effect. You can see this in action very clearly during 1st ice (3" or less) just by walking closer to your drilled hole, the water will rise in your hole as you get closer! I have seen pics of shantys on the ice with a bunch of holes drilled around them to drain off the water.
Jason
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Good to hear that the trip was a good one. For the lightning problem, just hang a towel over the vent while lighting, don’t forget to take it off. Might have to turn the shack to reduce wind effect if it won’t keep running.
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Glad you got out there!
Hammocks do have a fiddle factor about them for sure. If everything isnt just right the aren't as comfy. And you need alot of under insulation, being a couple pads or a thick under quilt.
Standing water is probably from the bowl your shanty created by sinking the ice a little bit. As you probably know already, ice doesn't get its strength in a manor similar to a bridge, but more like a floating barge. The shanty's weight pushes down slightly causing the water that's on the ice to pool around it. The thicker the ice, the less the effect. You can see this in action very clearly during 1st ice (3" or less) just by walking closer to your drilled hole, the water will rise in your hole as you get closer! I have seen pics of shantys on the ice with a bunch of holes drilled around them to drain off the water.
Jason
Well there were trucks out and stuff and there’s at least 10-12” of ice under it so I’m not sure it’s the weight. But who knows. I moved it off the spot yesterday since it’s gonna be cold now today so it should hopefully be better.
I plan to run the hammock for my first overnighter this Thursday (provided my rattle reels come in). Wouldn’t have thought of the under padding. Will be sure to bring some extra blankets!
Will bring a 2x4 and brace the ceiling regardless I think for holding my weight.
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Good to hear that the trip was a good one. For the lightning problem, just hang a towel over the vent while lighting, don’t forget to take it off. Might have to turn the shack to reduce wind effect if it won’t keep running.
Yeah I was thinking duct tape otherwise but yeah same concept. I managed to get it lit to start but when the propane ran out it’s hard to get going again. Haha
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Well central wisconsin has been taken by another rain storm and warm weather. Supposed to get cold again soon of course so I had to go and check that the shack wasn’t going to freeze in.
There was about 2” of water on the ice and the shack was originally just on one 2x6 blocking so I had to pick it up one more block. Doing this by yourself with a spud bar is not very easy btw.
While I was there I hung some wire shelves that fold up when not in use. These will help a ton for space I think. Did one up high above the heater and one above a fishing hatch for the vex and tackle. Also tried out my new card/fillet table for size. Should work well!
I will say it felt pretty sketchy walking out with that much water on the ice. Was even worse walking back off in the dark. No one else out there either didn’t help the feeling. Haha
(https://i.postimg.cc/njMdv3yX/1-E99-D54-C-B185-40-EB-AC52-EA7436-EAEB38.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njMdv3yX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mzqmVQ48/2-CF7-BFCA-6175-42-D8-99-C6-D31494185-D16.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzqmVQ48)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WdX6XM6g/A00-FA189-BA08-4387-B15-F-C022922-CFD94.png) (https://postimg.cc/WdX6XM6g)
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Well the shack made it through the big warm patch we had thankfully. There were a ton of down shacks on the Eau Pleine. Really scary to see.
So I’ve been fishing a few times and this furnace has really been the death of me. When it’s calm out I can figure it out. But when it’s windy I waste way too much time on it. One time I just about blew up the shack because of the damn leaky valve. Today I write this with my Coleman stove burning inside. Unbelievable how much different it is as far as fogging the windows goes.
So does anybody have a line on a good vented and cheaper heater? New or lightly used?
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Well over the weekend we packed out the fryer and all the materials and had a fish fry right on the ice. That was really something! Food always taste so good out there! During the fry with everyone inside the shack got pretty warm near the ceiling. Was 70 at our feet!
(https://i.postimg.cc/4KdXWCF8/2-CE5-A6-BE-92-D3-4-F1-D-BC96-036-D9-F114-F62.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KdXWCF8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WDHTK9Bs/C0642-A53-02-A9-4678-90-FA-378-B09-DC0-B06.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDHTK9Bs)
Today I also made my first major modification. Added another window to the shack. Wanted to do in a row with the other window to see tip ups better, but for its alternate hunting purpose I decided it would work better next to the door. Plan to take the door right off and make a half door to shoot out of. Plus it will cross vent better this way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/67k5qjYY/14848-FF8-4451-4-E72-80-D1-C81516-FBB062.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67k5qjYY)
Oh yeah. And I pulled it off the ice this week. Wont be able to fish for a while and don’t wanna worry about a freak rain storm again so I figured it was better this way.
Sorry I guess this thread is turning into my personal blog.
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Sorry I guess this thread is turning into my personal blog.
Your thread, would expect nothing different..
Been cool following it...
<°)))>{
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Well I got the shack out again after this ridiculous cold snap. Went to Lake Wausau. Not sure how that’ll pan out. So far it’s been slow but I think it’s been slow pretty much everywhere by the sounds of it.
Lately my add ons have included 5 gallon bucket hole sleeves. Cutting a perfect circle doesn’t work so well when you don’t have any kind of jig saw. They seem to work well though! Didn’t freeze up last night anyway.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2V4brC5j/CF29-D270-D657-49-D0-B5-C2-B061-D5-DBD026.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2V4brC5j)
Also rigged up my rattle reels finally. Hope to stay out overnight tonight and use them.
Also made a spot for my little buddy heater to hang up. It’s just a lot easier to use on those short trips and just crack the windows.
(https://i.postimg.cc/18vz3X1S/44-A6-A623-8481-447-C-855-F-441-D6-BDC8228.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18vz3X1S)
Also brought my buddy out today. He loves his little bed and has done really well so far!
(https://i.postimg.cc/sGPjdD4t/D6-EF155-B-07-A4-41-EE-AFED-FF5-C00-F36-F81.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGPjdD4t)
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Well it’s time to drag this thread back to life. That weekend fishing lake Wausau was the last time using the shack. Glad it stayed off the lake with how February went here in Wisconsin this year.
Anyway it’s time to start planning upgrades. So I had already planned on doing a 3’ V front add on.
This year I was just so limited by mobility so I need a better trailer. Figure no better trailer than a Miltona frame! Gonna start with the frame and sheet it. Then bolt the current shack to it.
Next year I plan to build a new shack to suit the frame.
So my first question is how big of a miltona frame do I need?
I would like to stay very trailable. So likely 6.5 wide. Also want to be able to pull with the wheeler. How long can you get and pull with an atv? I see a lot of people have 6.5x12’s. I think a 14 or 16’ would be nice but you start talking about a decently high build cost and weight.
It will be just me and the mrs 90% of the time. Will fish at most 3-4 people once or twice a year. Will you fit 8 holes in a 12’ frame with an open concept. Plan to just do a camper oven and small cabinet on one half of the V front. Then a direct vent heater on the other half. Otherwise it would be all open.
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Also I mentioned earlier in the thread that I was having troubles with the gas valve on my current direct vent heater. Was looking at new ones and said screw it. I’ll try rebuilding this one (they are “not repairable”).
Turns out it is a fairly simple system. Just a cone in a seat with a stem and a few springs. Cleaned it up, regreased it and it works like a charm! Just a little difficult getting everything to spring back together in the right order.
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Well. Time to keeper going. Settled on a 6.5x12 wheelhouse size. Worked out the blueprints (seriously days into the right layout). Put together a build sheet. And all said and done my estimate was around $5-6k. That turned my plans right back around. For that much I am probably better off just buying an actual castle. Then at least I can finance it. But for right now the mrs said nope. Ain’t gonna happen.
So I’ve gotta make due with what I have. I’ve got all summer to work my way through menards 11% sales.
Started with this marketplace find. 5 year old 25k empire with the blower for $150. Can’t complain too much there. Gonna enjoy that thermostat heat!!
(https://i.postimg.cc/G9SYrNQX/AE92-D834-6-F7-D-41-F6-8550-7-FC14-ECB15-C0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9SYrNQX)
Then I moved to the actual shack expansion. I couldn’t figure a good way structurally to just add on, so out came the old runners and joists.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wtVyrbMc/82313-E2-C-FF20-4020-9462-DF7-A5-BC1-D42-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtVyrbMc)
Then I still couldn’t decide how long I wanted to go, so I got planks long enough to do a 12’ shack. Likely will stick to 9 or 10’ because of weight and trailability.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yv8tBcN9/1-B19122-B-8788-4-FD3-95-DC-7-E22638738-E1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv8tBcN9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nC4HT9Cq/6-F824213-AC40-4060-9-A9-F-E14-B0-CC7-C897.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC4HT9Cq)
So now the latest is how to transport it. My dad wants his snowmobile trailer back so I’ve gotta come up with something. Looked at a trailer dealer today and was not all too impressed with the aluminum trailers out there. Some features of Aluma were nice but I didn’t like others. Trophy looks like a very nice option and cheaper than Aluma.
This would be a nice option but it was sold. 7x14. With side load for 2 atvs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fJpr38wK/AAA355-FC-4-F46-4-EFC-A351-2-D2156-F34-BE2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJpr38wK)
They also had some galvanized trailers on hand that I really liked. Built much stronger and a little cheaper. Plus I like that damn near anyone can weld/fix steel (in ventilation for the zinc). I’m just a little afraid of aluminum after my first trailer in this thread.
Only downside of this steel trailer was it has a spring axle instead of torsion which I prefer. It was called Alpha made by G Force trailers. Wish I could find some more literature on it but google shows nothing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2LFSq1Wd/3-A1-C0-B78-056-C-4-B17-B6-C0-3-F3635-DDB8-E2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2LFSq1Wd)
And I’ve considered still getting a miltona frame and using it as the trailer but I will be using this trailer just as much for atv’s. This helps me justify this expense (in my head anyway).
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Well I kept moving along on framing the expansion. It’s taking a lot of “engineering” as to how to make it the most structural (lots of crutching). Still a little stumped as to the best way to tie in the front wedge to the main roof since the main roof is pitched. I will likely cut a triangle wedge to make the transition to flat.
Day 1 and 2 of framing
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3mp1JqT/A492-E273-3-D9-F-44-A0-8717-D823-B7982-C5-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3mp1JqT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZSrHrkr/D8-FD00-F5-82-D2-4-D11-A9-D7-D77-A02-CBB6-D0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZSrHrkr)
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Still moving right along with this project. Who’d of thought this was a good way to spend nice spring days?
So I wound up making a peak out of the whole roof. Good thing I saved the cut offs from when I made the trusses initially. Made the same angle to glue right on top of these rafters. Then sheeted it. Used 4 ply 1/2” for this section since it has quite a bit of pitch. The rest of the roof is 5/8 (2’ oc) which may have been overkill.
Also cut off the eaves that I had before. No easy way to transition into them and they may have looked a little cheesy. Oh well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/75Q8tm1m/42-CC4-DC9-1-EB9-4667-AF2-F-4-F28-C400-E527.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75Q8tm1m)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jLcrPsDV/D7-FF1235-2-B42-4-D2-E-9-C76-980-B9-BAA4-A97.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLcrPsDV)
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Thank you for the update and photos,what type of roofing material do you plan to use I can see the point where roof of original shanty and the extension meet being a possible spot from leaks.
Steve
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Thank you for the update and photos,what type of roofing material do you plan to use I can see the point where roof of original shanty and the extension meet being a possible spot from leaks.
Steve
No need to thank me. This is more of my personal blog than anything at this point. If anyone sees anything and can take ideas or point out suggestions is what it’s here for!
But yeah this is why I didn’t go for a metal roof like I wanted to. You can’t flash it well to work for both regular rain and wind driven rain while trailering.
I will be buying another single sheet of epdm rubber roofing. This way everything will stay seamless and sealed. Will be flashing over the ridge where they meet too to make a smooth transition for the rubber.
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Walleyebird I thought you might use rubber roofing to eliminate the seam where roof changes pitch. I'm looking forward to seeing photos of the completed shanty in use next ice fishing season.
Steve
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That looks really nice.
Did you think of the shrink wrap they use on boats for the roof? Saw someone do it and it worked great.. jmo..
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Walleyebird I thought you might use rubber roofing to eliminate the seam where roof changes pitch. I'm looking forward to seeing photos of the completed shanty in use next ice fishing season.
Steve
Of course! I hope to use it a lot more! Just picked up a generator off of marketplace. A generac p2200. Supposedly only a couple hours on it for $200. So I think we’ll set the rattle reels and watch movies a lot this winter! Just gotta make it comfortable and enjoyable for her and the puppy to come along.
My biggest question is whether or not to panel the inside of it. I’m trying to stay as light as possible but she really likes the finer things in life. Haha.
That looks really nice.
Did you think of the shrink wrap they use on boats for the roof? Saw someone do it and it worked great.. jmo..
Yeah I’d just be worried about the long term durability of it. Plus I don’t really have a source for it at all. Figure by doing it all summer I can work my way through each process over time and not worry quite as much about the cost of each part.
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Got another day to work on the shack. Put in drip edge around the whole thing (noticed the old frame and runners were holding moisture in the seam). Also added another window and sided one side. Wound up filling the cut off rafter spot with a ripped 1x4 board.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1gMKnMJK/DE78-CE5-B-FD34-4-D59-B5-FB-EA9-ACBAB63-DD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gMKnMJK)
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Well I’m fonna drag this one back ttt. I’ve started working on her again after a very busy summer. I wound up finishing the siding and roof trim before tarping it and leaving it.
So my most pressing issue was how to haul it (unable to move it in the driveway all summer wasn’t ideal). I wound up custom ordering a galvanized steel trailer locally. I am SUPER impressed with the build quality of these trailers if anyone is interested. It is essentially a 7x12 with a torsion axle built by G-Force trailers in Manawa WI.
Who would’ve guessed twice the shack would weigh twice as much! Currently looking for an electric winch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dD2Tmfw7/D8106-B30-9-BDB-423-B-9157-D0-B0399-B7413.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dD2Tmfw7)
Finally loaded up and out of my driveway 6 months later!
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMRfLPBF/35090-ECC-2-E67-45-A6-BF7-D-6-FB15-A1910-B1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMRfLPBF)
Just the trailer. I am a steel guy. If you like aluminum, then good for you. I saw galvanizing as a happy medium.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YvwnDZmJ/5-ED1-E7-E4-40-A5-45-FC-942-A-64-F4-DD5-A8932.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvwnDZmJ)
Next I’m replacing the plywood door to something that won’t warp when it gets wet (and let the cold in), gluing the rubber roof on, and installing the new empire furnace!
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Got around to finishing the roof trim and replaced the door.
Trim is standard L8 fascia. Had to go that tall since I cut off the old eaves and had to cover that 4” of board.
Door was just a different color steel sheet I had laying around that I screwed to a little wood frame.
Caulked all the gaps and protrusions in the roof today too. Epdm is getting glued tomorrow.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SjMYj37s/C86-D4006-590-C-45-E5-A4-E5-8-BDEA4-E1-DC9-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjMYj37s)
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Well the epdm is down. First day was latex glue for the base of everything. Due to the compound angle at the peak I had to seam it.
To do the seam I overlapped it about a foot and used the multi purpose adhesive (contact cement). It says to buy their special splicing tape to do seams but that stuff is just way too expensive. This stuff grabbed like crazy so I’m not too worried. Just to add extra security I added a 12” cover strip over the seam. Crappy thing is that doing it myself and not knowing what I was doing led me to lay it pretty crooked. Oh well. It won’t leak anyway.
I will say the latex adhesive is much more forgiving if anyone is wondering for future reference.
Seam with super crooked cover strip.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4YrhjLBj/6-C607547-4-A57-4122-9-F9-C-3-D52215-BE615.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YrhjLBj)
Just the seam
(https://i.postimg.cc/XGgGGV40/98-BD21-AC-9922-435-C-8497-0-BA7-A7-BC1-F23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGgGGV40)
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Wound up gluing all the edges down to the fascia with the multi purpose glue. Should make setting the edge trim straight a breeze since I won’t have to be stretching anything. That was a nightmare the first time when nothing was glued.
Does anybody know what this glue is based out of though? I got a little messy and would like to clean it up.
Says it’s solvent based, but dipping the brush in gasoline did not thin it at all. Kept the brush workable though anyway.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pmxRSD57/C28-CF905-AF9-A-47-DE-AA63-FC06-B2-D78605.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmxRSD57)
What is the multi purpose adhesive based out of?
(https://i.postimg.cc/rR6vrkSb/C45941-B9-983-D-41-E4-961-E-8-CED7-E70883-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rR6vrkSb)
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Well Work has continued.
I used the standard termination bars they sell at menards all the way around. Found that acetone cleans up the excess adhesive easy enough (takes the paint off too if you scrub too hard).
After finishing the termination bars I took it for its first trip at highway speeds. I will say this thing pulls awesome! Much more confident pulling now. The snowmobile trailer and square face was scary to reach 45 mph. Now 70 is no problem. I really hope to take this shack some cool places this year!
Just ordered led lights for inside and out. A thermostat for the empire heater.
Will post pics after furnace and lights are installed.
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Well Work has continued. My interior seems to really be coming together. Put the pontoon battery in the shack for now.
Wiring included an (expensive) switch panel with dc and phone charging outlet, two switchable interior rv lights, 400W inverter, flat panel tv, and an outdoor RV style LED porch light.
Also got the heater mounted and operating. Starting to figure that I’m gonna need to do some adjustment (and the heater is probably too big). First swing without any fans running, it turned on at 68 then off at 78. This is all fine but the residual heat in the heater brought it up to 90 or so. Gonna have to tighten up the thermostat a little.
Only thing left inside is to finish insulating, add a fold out bench/bed, a couple computer fans, and catch covers.
Outside is pretty much done. Will post pictures tomorrow of outside.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gLrCjKWy/4-C42467-C-8-B47-4-CF7-92-A4-DD97746-B0-F20.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLrCjKWy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBfkJM1K/6-AC88-F8-F-5-D91-40-CE-AE28-4-B1122-D48-F24.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBfkJM1K)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBYttSsM/730-FBAB9-DE9-D-40-FF-B0-AD-1479-A2123-C46.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBYttSsM)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/fVBTV84p/4-D1-FD98-E-E3-BB-4-D48-82-E8-8-F5897-EBEC40.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVBTV84p)
The exterior now all buttoned up. Had to make a bump out for the heater flue because it requires a minimum of 4.5” Wall space.
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How many BTU’s is that heater?
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Smokin!!!!
Kudos to the creative!
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very nice job
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Looks like it's gonna be warm!
Love your trailer. If they made an enclosed inline snowmobile trailer with a galvanized frame, I would own one. And why, WHY ON EARTH, aren't truck frames galvanized? I have a galvanized boat trailer from 1996 that gets used in the salt and it looks brand new.
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Heater is a 25k.
Would’ve preferred a 15k but this one came up used at a smoking deal.
Thank you for the complements guys! Appreciate it. Love these projects to keep me busy and out of trouble.
I do really like my trailer as well so far. Would recommend Alpha out of Manawa WI any day. Built super stout.
Yesterday I picked up some used catch covers and did more insulating.
Gonna try and build a bunk tonight.
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Awesome shack! Nice to see another Shanty member on here from Wausau!
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Few more additions.
Wound up going with a built in bed/couch. I wasn’t so sure because I didn’t want any more weight up front than I had to (for towing with atv). But with it done I am super happy with it! It is a 3” thick foam mattress topper covered with a teddy bear rv mattress cover. It is plenty comfy and spacious to sleep me and the mrs. And adds more seating/storage without taking as much room as I thought!
Also I got a set of custom fish pattern curtains from the mrs. For my birthday. Look super nice!
(https://i.postimg.cc/XXjkz8Kj/4-CF4434-F-F30-E-4-F4-B-8-D34-DE02-E89-DD947.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXjkz8Kj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TKDVDHx9/C3-CD382-C-F0-DA-449-F-B95-D-013-BF4-C9-B77-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKDVDHx9)
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Just an update. Finally got the shanty out this past weekend. Spent Saturday-Monday out on the BEP.
Everything went really well thankfully! Had 7” of ice and pulled it out with the atv. Caught probably 8 walleye, 1 of which was 21”. Those were all Saturday night. Otherwise soaked 6 lines for 14 hours Sunday and didn’t catch anything.
The mrs and dog had a good time cuddled up on the bed most of the weekend and said she would love to go again! So that’s good!
Only issue was I found some drafts to seal up and will need to move the thermostat. Otherwise everything worked nicely!
(https://i.postimg.cc/Tys8hr6p/66-E30-DE7-8-FD7-4592-95-EF-AF0702-C540-AB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tys8hr6p)