Author Topic: Runner screws  (Read 1530 times)

Offline Unclegillhunter

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Runner screws
« on: Dec 25, 2017, 01:01 PM »
So do all runner kits come with screws an inch longer than they need to be? And do you cut them off?
Keep it safe! JDL

Offline Raquettedacker

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #1 on: Dec 25, 2017, 01:04 PM »
Most do. Hand grinder with cut off wheel.    That's why on my next one I'm going to rivet them.....    ;)
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Offline hardwater diehard

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #2 on: Dec 25, 2017, 01:07 PM »
What kit do you have? My Frabill kit screws were a little longer but not an inch ...not a bother though.
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Offline 3300

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #3 on: Dec 25, 2017, 01:49 PM »
all of the different shappell hyfax kits i've installed had only a short amount of extra threads, but the only frabill i ever tried was way to long (about an inch) and the heads of the bolts try to poll thru the hyfax super easy and they didn't give any washers to try to stop it from happening and the hardware they did provide was of all different sizes and that's the screw bag that came with the hyfax kit.
there is a huge quality difference between the brands too. i bought an extra kit from frabill for 16$ but sent it back with the 2110 shack and the kit i had installed. they made me remove it to get credit back on it and ruined the tub doing so. not a smart amazon move at all.

Offline Unclegillhunter

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #4 on: Dec 25, 2017, 04:02 PM »
Clam and I am just going to use a cutter disk on my dermal to wack them off. Just wondering if they got a good deal on the longer screws. ;D
Keep it safe! JDL

Offline T-Hawker

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #5 on: Dec 25, 2017, 04:55 PM »
Ironically I was just going to post a message on this exact same topic (primarily to vent).  Just installed runners on my Clam Kenai Pro Thermal and the 1" too long threads really sucked.  Why Clam, why?  Now I have to live with screws sticking up or go through $10 worth of dremel wheels going through SS bolts.  Ugh.  And yes putting runners on after the tent is installed sucks as bad as everyone states.
Seasoned deer hunter, greenhorn fisherdude.

Offline Unclegillhunter

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #6 on: Dec 28, 2017, 02:46 PM »
Ok I am wondering instead of cutting the excess screws off what do you all think of just getting a couple of pool noodles, with the slit and just put them over the screws. Just about tired of this build. All I have left is putting the cover on and then putting that u tubing on then it will be ready for this week end.
Keep it safe! JDL

Offline filetandrelease

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #7 on: Dec 28, 2017, 03:07 PM »

I have a Kenai thermal first I wouldnít put another set of those runners on mine they are way to soft after 1 season they didnít hold up well , I had a factory defect in the tub which with 1 call I was sent a new 1 , this time I put a set of otter hyfax on , thicker and $15.00 cheaper , far as the screws in the old set they didnít sick up higher than the inside rib and  didnít cause any trouble , granted the bolts could be shorter ,
 

Offline HudsonRiverRat

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #8 on: Feb 16, 2021, 07:54 PM »
So my kit arrived missing the hardware to install it. Does anyone know what size and what length stainless screws I should get?

Offline badger132

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #9 on: Feb 17, 2021, 05:31 PM »
This is a good excuse to go to Harbor Freight and buy and angle grinder and cutoff wheels. Can't believe how long I went without one. I used mine so much, I wore it out. I now have a Ridgid cordless one, which is even handier. Haven't used a hacksaw in 5 years.

Offline badger132

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #10 on: Feb 27, 2021, 11:31 AM »
This makes me wonder: Has anyone come up with a way to put the flush part of the fastener inside, and get the nut on the outside? If it is an inch too long, you have a worse problem, but it would be nice to have button head screws on the inside of the tub, and keep all the rest of the fastener up inside the counterbore in the bottom of the Hyfax.
Would the pop riveting technique proposed further back in this thread accomplish this? How would you hold it all together tight while you install the rivets?

 ???

Offline desmobob

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #11 on: Feb 27, 2021, 11:55 AM »
I just installed an Eagle Claw/Shappell runner kit on my JetSled XL yesterday and the screws were just long enough... perfect.  I think the screws on the Eskimo kit for my flip-over were just right, too.

Offline FishGut

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #12 on: Feb 27, 2021, 12:51 PM »
I went to Menards and bought a couple packages of stainless steel bolts for my Clam runners. It was a hecka lot easier than grinding 'em off.
Nebraska certified Fishing Instructor

Offline lundin-loading

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #13 on: Feb 27, 2021, 01:19 PM »
This makes me wonder: Has anyone come up with a way to put the flush part of the fastener inside, and get the nut on the outside? If it is an inch too long, you have a worse problem, but it would be nice to have button head screws on the inside of the tub, and keep all the rest of the fastener up inside the counterbore in the bottom of the Hyfax.
Would the pop riveting technique proposed further back in this thread accomplish this? How would you hold it all together tight while you install the rivets?

 ???
Use these t-nuts on the inside, you can either bend or cut the points so they sit flush with the bottom of the tub.



Offline Rebelss

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #14 on: Feb 27, 2021, 01:38 PM »
This is a good excuse to go to Harbor Freight and buy and angle grinder and cutoff wheels. Can't believe how long I went without one. I used mine so much, I wore it out. I now have a Ridgid cordless one, which is even handier. Haven't used a hacksaw in 5 years.

Dremel type roto tool/saw with little carbide disc works great, too. Use mine a lot.




                                    


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Offline badger132

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #15 on: Feb 27, 2021, 02:46 PM »
Use these t-nuts on the inside, you can either bend or cut the points so they sit flush with the bottom of the tub.



Where does the barrel part of the T-nut go? Do you drill out the Hyfax?

Offline lundin-loading

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #16 on: Feb 27, 2021, 04:01 PM »
Where does the barrel part of the T-nut go? Do you drill out the Hyfax?

Correct. Just slightly oversize the through hole in sled and hyfax. You'll want to use loctite as these aren't a nylock.

Offline badger132

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Re: Runner screws
« Reply #17 on: Feb 27, 2021, 05:24 PM »
Correct. Just slightly oversize the through hole in sled and hyfax. You'll want to use loctite as these aren't a nylock.

Good solution! I found these, that save cutting off the tabs:



 



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