Jiffy 30 Running Problems

[Bluegill90]

I have a Jiffy Model 30 that I recently purchased. I belive the serial number puts it at a 1984 as these are the first two digits. 2-stroke. I have never ran a power auger and have a few basic questions.

The auger starts on about five pulls cold. Am I supposed to let it idol before popping holes? Even with the choke off it doesn't seem to want to go into high speed. It went into it after the second hole I drilled which was about ten minutes of running time with the throttle held down and choke off.  It feels like it runs 50%.

Also, I had about a 1/4 tank of fuel when I went out on the ice today. After two holes I ran out of fuel. It has a new fuel line and clamps and it isnt leaking from the tank. Is this normal? It looks to be dripping a little gas where the carb connects to the engine as well as from the gasket in the center of the gear case.

Any solutions?

[paullo19]

It sounds like you need to clean/rebuild the carb. You are going through way too much gas and the warm up time is way to long.I let my auger sit less than a minute before I start drilling.

[Laker 11]

yes a carb rebuild is the way to go but you could try to adjust the carb first. Do a web search on Jiffy model 30 carb, lots of info on adjusting and rebuild kits.

[KQ700]

Hey Bluegill, Welcome I see you just signed on yesterday. the old Jiffy Model 30s "IMO" are lot better than some of the new china made crap you get today. It dose sound like you have carb problems. Where do you live in Wis. because there is a guy by me that works on Jiffys. I had picked  an old model 30 from a guy on the lake for $30.00 it did the same as yours they put a new carb on it now run like new. If you PM me your phone# I will give you his # and tell you what he hold me to use.

[Bluegill90]

I think I may just purchase a rebuild kit but if that doesn't workout ill give you a buzz. Thanks for the help everyone.

[fishNdisc]

Carb rebuild kit.  My dad's old jiffy was out of commission for about 5 years.  Had someone clean the carb put the new "kit" in, starts first or second pull, amazing.  Kit costs like $12.  Can't decide which auger I like better the old jiffy or the old strikemaster, both super reliable.

[KQ700]

what ever you do keep the Ethanol "I think I spelled it right" away from it.

[eriksat1]

There is almost nothing to the carbs on old jiffy's I took mine apart and cleaned it and put in a new $4 diaphragm I bought at L&M farm supply in it and cleaned out the gas tank. It runs like new again now.

This is for my about 20 year old
Jiffy Model 30
Tecumseh
Engine # AV520-670119K  0179H
Spark plug Champion RJ17LM gap .030”

Low speed left
High speed right

Close both jets GENTLY

Open the Low speed 1/4 turn

Open High speed jet 1-1/4 turn

Start engine.

Adjust low speed until idling smoothly.

Open her up wide open.

Adjust High speed until engine transitions smoothly from idle to high speed without bogging.

Shut engine off. Let it cool.

Once engine is cold. Fire it up and let it idle for 30 secs. Open it up wide open again. Adjust if necassary.

The trick with the Jiffy's is to tune them during cold (ice fishing) weather.

Low speed screw,the one on the left.

High speed on the right.

My final adjustments were
high speed screw 3/4 turn out
Low speed screw just under 1 full turn out.

[dab65]

 That is about the same year as mine. Mine got to the point of running so bad I was the only one that could drill holes for the day because it would kill for anyone else. I finally had enough of that and took it to my ex bro in law who owns small engine repair shop. He did carb rebuild for cheap and now it runs perfect. First time it had been worked on since I bought it new. Starts by 2nd pull. Can turn the choke down after a couple seconds.

[eriksat1]

A rebuild on these carbs is pretty much a spray from a can of gum out carb cleaner and a new diaphragm.

[Kilbourn]

Bluegill90 Did you get it figured out and running top notch again?

[Kilbourn]

Mines been running good and bad on and off for three years now. Adjusted it the way you posted erik. Now runs a lot better. I'm sure I need a new carb kit but happy with the way it's running for now. Tired sharpening the blades today by myself for the first time and it worked great. Drilled about 10 holes with it and seemed good. Now the true test is tomorrow when I go fishing. I shall take some extra blades and wrenches just in case though. Great post and good info.

[Dags Bait Maine]

There is almost nothing to the carbs on old jiffy's I took mine apart and cleaned it and put in a new $4 diaphragm I bought at L&M farm supply in it and cleaned out the gas tank. It runs like new again now.

This is for my about 20 year old
Jiffy Model 30
Tecumseh
Engine # AV520-670119K  0179H
Spark plug Champion RJ17LM gap .030”

Low speed left
High speed right

Close both jets GENTLY

Open the Low speed 1/4 turn

Open High speed jet 1-1/4 turn

Start engine.

Adjust low speed until idling smoothly.

Open her up wide open.

Adjust High speed until engine transitions smoothly from idle to high speed without bogging.

Shut engine off. Let it cool.

Once engine is cold. Fire it up and let it idle for 30 secs. Open it up wide open again. Adjust if necassary.

The trick with the Jiffy's is to tune them during cold (ice fishing) weather.

Low speed screw,the one on the left.

High speed on the right.

My final adjustments were
high speed screw 3/4 turn out
Low speed screw just under 1 full turn out.

Good Post, couple more suggestions if you don't mind, I rebuild about 75 or more of these each year. First  of all I do all my tuning in a 5 Gallon bucket, you will be able to adjust much easier that way and far better safety wise. I start at 3/4 out on low speed and 1 1/8 out on High Speed. Usually you will end up within a 1/4 turn either way on both,  Ensure your throttle / governor spring is on the furthest hole giving you the tightest tension or you will have the governor backing the engine down too much. I adjust the high speed first as well getting the highest RPM  and give it a little more until you hear that poping from the Governor backing the engine down, this gives you the extra fuel you;need when drilling under load. A key point  Most Augers if you have to hit the Primer to get it to run or get that extra power is indicating your high speed is in too much back it out and the dying out under load and that seemingly extra gear kicks in... good Post and good luck to all ~ Marceli

[eriksat1]

Thanks any tips help. I will try the 5 gal bucket, I usually do it with the blade cover on. It also helps greatly to adjust it with 2 people, one just to hold the auger steady while the other does the adjusting. The biggest thing imo is doing it out in the cold. And it might need tweaking if you go from adjusting it when it is 32f out, then next time you go out it is minus -10f doing the final adjustment in the cold is a must. I know what you mean about having to hit the primer button sometimes to get full power, between hitting the primer and playing with the choke., I did that for several years until I figured out how to adjust these things. And after a lot of running the screws tend to move by themselves so make sure you record the screw setting once you have it running perfect. If you really want to get it down adjust it when it is about minus -10 out, and also adjust it when it is about +35 out, and write down the screw settings. Then from mid winter to late ice you will be right in the ball park by setting the screws before you even get to the ice be it minus -10 or +35.

[Kilbourn]

I'm thinking the mixture might have to do with it as well as the temperature when you run it. Hear me out.... Lets say you run 40:1 and one time your mix has a little too much/little of gas/oil or vise versa and your mixture ends up being 38:1. Not really a big deal but once you get it tuned up and run it a lot you need more fuel so you do a gallon mix in a can again but this time it runs 41:1. I'm guessing this might make a difference as well on how it performs. As you all said less than a 1/4 turn on a screw can change the attitude and performance significantly. Just my opinion that I've thought about, not saying its right just makes sense to me.

[Dags Bait Maine]

Thanks any tips help. I will try the 5 gal bucket, I usually do it with the blade cover on. It also helps greatly to adjust it with 2 people, one just to hold the auger steady while the other does the adjusting. The biggest thing imo is doing it out in the cold. And it might need tweaking if you go from adjusting it when it is 32f out, then next time you go out it is minus -10f doing the final adjustment in the cold is a must. I know what you mean about having to hit the primer button sometimes to get full power, between hitting the primer and playing with the choke., I did that for several years until I figured out how to adjust these things. And after a lot of running the screws tend to move by themselves so make sure you record the screw setting once you have it running perfect. If you really want to get it down adjust it when it is about minus -10 out, and also adjust it when it is about +35 out, and write down the screw settings. Then from mid winter to late ice you will be right in the ball park by setting the screws before you even get to the ice be it minus -10 or +35.

X2 do you ever think about a second job....auger mech;'''''' lol your in I could use some help ..Marcel

[Dags Bait Maine]

I'm thinking the mixture might have to do with it as well as the temperature when you run it. Hear me out.... Lets say you run 40:1 and one time your mix has a little too much/little of gas/oil or vise versa and your mixture ends up being 38:1. Not really a big deal but once you get it tuned up and run it a lot you need more fuel so you do a gallon mix in a can again but this time it runs 41:1. I'm guessing this might make a difference as well on how it performs. As you all said less than a 1/4 turn on a screw can change the attitude and performance significantly. Just my opinion that I've thought about, not saying its right just makes sense to me.

Fuel-mixture is a factor, I tell my customers that I dump their old gas...don't care ..i know i'm using very fresh gas and 40:1 or 50:1 on the other brands. The only exception is when a customer wants me to use their gas to tune such as those who use, non- ethanol or aviation fuel or some like AmsOil at 150:1, those guys are on their own after they leave the shop. Jiffy oil has stabil in it and its synthetic that's what I use.

[Kilbourn]

I run the Jiffy oil as well at either 24:1 or 40:1 to be honest I can't remember. I definitely have to check the throttle spring as well as I didn't think of it. The 30 is really great when it's running top notch. I bought mine from my dad and he couldn't believe how nice it runs again. He hasn't seen it run this good in a long time. He bought it brand new about 22 - 25 years ago. Thanks for all the good tips on here! LOL I didn't even start this topic but like it!

[eriksat1]

I have 3 chainsaws so I run my huqvarna fully synthetic oil with stabilizer already in it. I have 2 separate gas cans one for chainsaw 50:1 and one for auger about 38:1 I think. I use the small bottles made to mix with one gallon of gas for 50:1 but for the auger gas I use 2 small bottles to 1-1/2 gallons of gas making it 37.5:1. I'm careful to always mix my gas oil the same, and I use premium non ethanol gas. My old jiffy mod 30 is at least 22 years old and I figure it will probably out live my ice fishing days. I know it is a little on the heavy side but man does that thing cut through the ice, about 12" of ice every 10 seconds.

[Dags Bait Maine]

I have 3 chainsaws so I run my huqvarna fully synthetic oil with stabilizer already in it. I have 2 separate gas cans one for chainsaw 50:1 and one for auger about 38:1 I think. I use the small bottles made to mix with one gallon of gas for 50:1 but for the auger gas I use 2 small bottles to 1-1/2 gallons of gas making it 37.5:1. I'm careful to always mix my gas oil the same, and I use premium non ethanol gas. My old jiffy mod 30 is at least 22 years old and I figure it will probably out live my ice fishing days. I know it is a little on the heavy side but man does that thing cut through the ice, about 12" of ice every 10 seconds.

The old Jiffy's will last a lifetime, We have a 1951 Jiffy, First year of  Jiffy with a Clinton Motor ( Tecumseh clone to be ) Its looks great and runs strong and it's only 63 years old.~ Marcel

[eriksat1]

I have to wonder if these new mostly plastic light weight augers will even make it 10 -15 years?

[Kilbourn]

I don't think they'll last as long. Companies make more money if they need to but a new one every so many years rather than making it last. I hope to have my 30 until I die though.lol

That's great Marcel. I would love to see pictures of that.

[Dags Bait Maine]

do a search on the Maine board I belive we posted some a couple years back Marcel

[Bluegill90]

Bluegill90 Did you get it figured out and running top notch again?

Going to adjust it right now. Had the flu for the last week or so. Haven't been able to get out on the ice in a while. Thank you for all the advice. I hope to be fishing more as I plan to add a vexilar in the next week.

[Bluegill90]

Hey all for my 1984 Jiffy here are the final adjustments. I have three screws in front of me on the carb. The two directly next to each other are what I presume to be the Low/High adjustments. The screw directly above them centered is the idol control.

Here are the magic numbers for me

Idol control five turns counterclockwise from slightly tightened

Low control 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise from slightly tightened

High control 1/2 turn counterclockwise from slightly tightened.

I may have to adjust the high control on the ice to keep it from bogging but as for right now it runs fantastic. No spin in the auger when idleing, transitions smoothly to high almost instantly, keeps high speed but doesn't go over the top or flood out.

[Bluegill90]

Here is my guide to what worked:

Three screws on my carb that I worked with: top is idle, lower left is low, lower right is high.
  O                 I
          =
O O             L    H

Idol screw all the way tightened (cw) will make the engine run wide open. Loosen it (ccw) to lower the level of idle.

1.Start by opening both  low and high screws one full turn. Start engine. Then adjust the idle screw outwards (ccw) until the engine idols strong but doesn't feel like the throttle is being applied. Idol screw all the way tightened (cw) will make the engine run wide open. Loosen it (ccw) to lower the level of idle. This magic zone will be +/- a half turn. This may take a few loosening turns depending on your specific carb. Mine took five turns exactly. Does that make sense? Don't overthink it. These Jiffys are very forgiving.

2.Keep engine running.

3. Adjust the low screw ccw or cw until there is minimal rotation in the auger but the engine still idles strong. The effects of your adjustment will take place about 3-5 seconds after you make them with the engine running. The low screw full tightened will limit fuel in idle mode and cause the engine to run weaker....vise versa.

4.Keep engine running.

5. Adjust the high screw so that the engine transitions from idle to high without bogging. The screw full tightened will make the engine transition instantly but it will almost certainly bog when under a load from cutting ice. Usually 1/2 - 3/4 turn from tightened position did the trick.

6. Shut down let cool completely.

7. Restart and adjust anything as needed. (They usually stay perfect from your original settings.)

Took a half a day of tinkering on three model 30's to figure everything out.

Running 25:1 as Jiffy recommends on this model 30. About 27 degrees outside right now.

[eriksat1]

You have to go back and forth with the low idle mixture screw and the throttle idle screw. What I mean is once you get it to idle then adjust the low idle mixture screw to try and get the rpm to go higher, if it goes higher then you need to back off the idle screw so it idles at good low speed. Go back and forth like that until you get the highest rpm you can with the low idle mixture screw, but keep backing off the throttle screw until you get the idle speed you want, and with the throttle idle screw backed out as far as possible. If that makes any sense to you. Like this you get it to idle at the low speed you want, then turn the low speed screw in or out a 1/4 turn the idle rpm picks up, then back off the throttle screw so it idles slower again.