Tecumseh Carburetor Question

[wyogator]

Hey guys, I have a question.  I have a Strikemaster Mag 2000 with the Tecumseh TC300 engine.  I need to rebuild the carburetor, and if that doesn't work, buy a new one.  I think the one I have is a Tillotson.  The part number is 640231.  This model has been replaced with 640231A.  I am not sure what the difference is.  I have heard that the newer model replaced the older one because the plastic fuel inlet was prone to cracking and causing a dangerous fuel leak.  The newer one does have a brass inlet, which seems better.  However, the guy from Jack's Small Engines said that it was replaced due to EPA requirements that new carbs be made non-adjustable, and for this reason, the new carb is crap.  Can someone tell me the correct reason and which one is better.  I would rather not have a carburetor with a cheap plastic fuel inlet.  That would be better that not being able to adjust idle and high speed though.  I was just thinking if the new one is better, I could just get that rather than rebuild the old one.

[Idahogator]

Gator, is this an old unit.
If I may ask?  What have you been running in it to eat the carb so soon ?   Fuel type and oil brand and ratio ?
I have an expert within reach and will want to know those things.   

[wyogator]

This unit is old.  I think it is a '91.  I haven't used it yet.  I found it out in the shed behind our house.  The carb was gunked up with varnish and brown crap that looks like molasses from bad gas.  I also have to replace the fuel tank.  I cleaned the carb, but didn't use new gaskets or diaphrams.  I couldn't get it to run, but it did turn over.  The rest of the engine and auger looks almost brand new.

[Idahogator]

This unit is old.  I think it is a '91.  I haven't used it yet.  I found it out in the shed behind our house.  The carb was gunked up with varnish and brown crap that looks like molasses from bad gas.  I also have to replace the fuel tank.  I cleaned the carb, but didn't use new gaskets or diaphrams.  I couldn't get it to run, but it did turn over.  The rest of the engine and auger looks almost brand new.

Dang, found it in the shed, funny but a stroke of luck.      The good thing is it's got an adjustable carb.  I will guess, you cleaned the carb with some explosive spray.     Were the gaskets still soft and salvageable ?        And the diaphragm not ballooned on one side and flexible ?      If the  float still floats and nothing splashing around inside it's probably good.    The float needle/(fuel stop) may have a small indentation and still be serviceable, but a grove or missing area is not so good.    As I've been away from this a few years, not sure if you can still buy only the needle and seat as a package, but, for sure is in a "carb kit".
Can we continue ?   

[Drifter_016]

I would definitely pick up a carb kit for it.
I have the same engine and was surprised when I went into my local small engine place here in Yellowknife they actually had the kit in stock.
And it was very reasonably priced to boot!!!!   

[wyogator]

The funny thing is that I had planned to buy a power auger this year after using a Mora hand auger for 10 years.  My wife said we couldn't afford it.  We moved into this house a couple of months ago.  I had been in that shed close to a dozen times and never noticed it.  Then one night, I went in there with a headlamp in the dark, to look for a place to hang a deer and saw it leaning in the corner like a Christmas present.  I couldn't believe my eyes.  The gaskets look good.  I'm not sure about the diaphrams.  I will either rebuild it with new gaskets and diaphrams, or buy a new one.  I think the reason it didn't start May be from not getting enough gas from a bad fuel line.

[wyogator]

Drifter, do you have the old or new carburetor?

[Idahogator]

I'm done, good night gents, Happy thanksgiving.........

[Drifter_016]

Drifter, do you have the old or new carburetor?

Old carb with adjustments in tact.

[JonPerry]

Drop it off at your local small engine shop. They should be able to get it running w/o much effort & a carb kit. The tank can be cleaned. Even if it costs you $100 it's still a cheap auger.

If I had it, I'd soak the carb & tank w carb cleaner or mineral spirits for a couple days to cut the gunk & rebuild the carb. Good Luck & Happy Thanksgiving

[wyogator]

Jon, it's going to cost over 100 bucks.  The fuel tank needs to be replaced, because it has cracks in it.  I decided to go ahead and replace the carburetor, because I found out that the old one is non-adjustable, and has the breakable plastic  fuel inlet.  Plus, I can't pull the welch plug, because it looks like I can't find another one.  That's okay though.  I would rather spend 140-180 bucks fixing this up, than spending $400 for a new one.

[Pike Paralyzer]

On my mag 3000 it was easier to just buy a new carb. They are relatively cheap. 30$ maybe?

[Kidder]

In the process of rebuilding a strikemaster magnum 2000 with the tc 300 motor to have a spare auger. Gas tank was $47 and the carb rebuild kit was $17 but it didn't include the 3 flange type intake gaskets so now I'm waiting on those. Make sure you clock the plastic spacer between the carb and the engine properly so the pressure/vacuum from the crankcase can reach the diaphram other wise your engine will not get any fuel.

[wyogator]

Thanks Kidder, does the hole in the side of the plastic spacer go on the spark plug side?

[Kidder]

Nope, towards the bottom/crankcase side of the motor. You will see a tiny port on the jug below the main intake port. That's where the vacuum/pressure comes from.

[Uncle Al]

rebuilds are good. I have a garage full of string trimmers, push lawn mowers, leaf blowers that I have junk picked and have never spent any money on parts. Carbs are usually the fault, I clean them in what caused them to fail, gasoline. Tear them down, put them in a coffee can full of gas for a couple of days, put them back together, and use them. My own stuff I always run them out of gas before storage, and they have always started the next season. Rebuild that auger you found and take care of it, and it will last a loooooooooooong time.................l ater

[joefishmore]

30 $ carburator ? I just spent 200 $ for an updraft carb for a 80s  8 HP briggs on a Troy bilt rototiller.

[Ches.]

I rebuilt my Mag 2000 carb last year, carb kit was like $10, took my about 30 min.  Just ake it apart taking special not of gasket locations and orientation.  Spay it down with carb cleaner and do a good job flushing out the small ports (all of them).  Put it back together and while you are at it, replace all the fuel lines with that yellow rubber stuff (think it's silicone).  A couple of pulls and it should be running great.
Ches.

[CamoHunter]

Here's a good parts diagram:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=TEC-640231&dn=CASERIES_12A1640231-CA

Here's a cheap replacement carburetor ($52):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-Carburetor-TC200-TC300-640231A-632941-632979-640231-640901-640911-/201035649404

Here's a carburetor repair kit ($23) (640256):
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=TEC-640231&dn=CASERIES_12A1640231-CA

You can also find the carburetor repair kit #640256 for like $17 on ebay.

You might be able to get a replacement gas tank for about $35 on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TECUMSEH-2-CYCLE-TC200-TC300-GAS-FUEL-TANK-FITS-EDJERS-MINI-TILLERS-/400808173067?pt=US_Outdoor_Power_Equipment&hash=item5d52075e0b

[cold_feet]

If your Carb is has adjustment screws for air mix stay with it and rebuild it. Parts are easily gotten off Ebay at a reasonable cost. The part numbers followed by a "A" is alternate or alternative part which will be a newer model with no adjustment screws. My personal opinion is rebuild the adjustable carb you have.  Those Welsh plugs can be a pain to get out but work at it  you can drill it and pry it out  or they also sell rebuild tools to remove welsh plugs they are not cheap though.  If you know someone who has small engine shop maybe they will pop them out for a couple bucks for you. I myself would spend the time to rebuild this carb and stay clear of running low E fuels through it when you are done.

[Mugz]

I have an older Strikemaster with the same engine....I also had the problem with the plastic fuel line adapter cracking. I was able to find replacements on-line and bought a couple spares at the same time (they were dirt cheap). Bought the carb kit as well.....(and saved the old card parts just in case I got in a bind), along with new fuel line. Runs better now than it ever did.....I did however have to play with the throttle screw adjustment. It is a very touchy adjustment.....but I just adjusted it to a happy medium. A lot of times this adjustment screw is the cause of your auger blade turning at idle as well.....
If you have the time and a less than $30 I recommend this rebuilt to anyone. Well worth it....!!!

[wyogator]

I appreciate all of the replies.  The old carb, I found out does not have any adjusting screws, except idle on the bottom.  So, this auger must be newer than I thought.  It sure wasn't taken care of.  It's the mag 2000, not the mag 3.  The problem with the welch plug, isn't so much, getting the old one off, although that can be a real pain, but getting a new one.  I think, since the old one is not adjustable, I will just try the new replacement carb.

[IceBalls]

VERY FRUSTRATED !!!    Gave my TC300 Tecumseh motor to a local samll engine repair shop and had them install a carb rebuild kit.  Motor would start, but die when throttle was depressed.  Now the shop tells me that the motor will start but will not keep running!  Motor is less than 10 years old and has been carefully taken care of every year.  Is it possible that the entire carburetor needs to be replaced???  What could cause this??

[Rebelss]

Sometimes the coil goes "intermittent" or bad...hopefully they've checked the coil/flywheel clearance and did a spark output test? I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak between carb body/housing/gasket mating surface somewhere, too....

[wyogator]

I was thinking maybe the vacuum hole on the black spacer could be reversed.

[Mugz]

Even though you you did the carb replacement gasket kit.....this still sounds like it's NOT getting enough gas into it to stay running. This sounds like an issue I had with the cracked plastic nipple going to the carb. Check this!!! Take off the gas line and blow it out....you will see the plastic nipple on the carb. This just pops off with a screw driver (carefully). Inspect it and pop back on. It pops on the orifice like on a Zerk fitting like a ball and socket.
If I didn't have my auger in storage I would take a picture of mine for you. AND I still think I have the broken one....
I remember when I had issues, it was doing the same thing.....would start then bog down when I was giving it gas. Come to find out the plastic piece was cracked not allowing suction...so it would run for a second then bog down when the throttle is pressed. You could also tweak the throttle a bit.....in a clockwise direction to make sure the throttle screw is at maximum, then adjust down once you get it running.
This is a common problem. BUT, it could be some sort of clog in the carb as well.....troubleshoot it not getting gas. Also, check for a You Tube video on this.....there could be a breakdown out there that shows a carb re-build step by step. Something could be in backwards.
Just my .02.....post back when you fix the issue. Someone else could benefit.

[taubros]

VERY FRUSTRATED !!!    Gave my TC300 Tecumseh motor to a local samll engine repair shop and had them install a carb rebuild kit.  Motor would start, but die when throttle was depressed.  Now the shop tells me that the motor will start but will not keep running!  Motor is less than 10 years old and has been carefully taken care of every year.  Is it possible that the entire carburetor needs to be replaced???  What could cause this??

I'd try filling tank with 1/4 amount of gas and run it with cap open. Throttle it and see if it dies.  My honda lite was new and had the same issue. It starts and when you throttle it, it dies. Soon it wont even start. Took it to the repair shop they said it was the cap. Honda lite has a bad cap design in my case i replace it with a robin engine cap if i recall correctly. Sometimes the cap stop venting restricting gas flow. Mine runs great ever since

[Mugz]

I'd try filling tank with 1/4 amount of gas and run it with cap open. Throttle it and see if it dies.  My honda lite was new and had the same issue. It starts and when you throttle it, it dies. Soon it wont even start. Took it to the repair shop they said it was the cap. Honda lite has a bad cap design in my case i replace it with a robin engine cap if i recall correctly. Sometimes the cap stop venting restricting gas flow. Mine runs great ever since

YES!!! That could be an issue too!!! And easy to rule that problem out and check it off the troubleshooting list!!!

[cold_feet]

Ice Balls

 Get a compression test done first and foremost. Lack of compression also effects internal vacuum for fuel supply. Second are you running Ethanol free gas? If you are not go back to square one and rebuild carb or simply replace carb and do yourself a huge favor and run the Ethanol free gas in this auger. That ethanol will screw up a carb in less than a year. And yeah it open for debate some guys run it for years without a problem. That's a chance you take with it. Once it starts pitting the housing game over the carb is scrap biggest flaw to running it, it destroys the gaskets fuel lines and diaphragm along with the needle and seat.

check out areas near you for E free gas

http://pure-gas.org/

[cold_feet]

To get out a Welsh plug drill it and pry it out but do not drill in carb housing take your time drill it slowly. To replace welch plug put the welsh plug in its place making sure its in the groove and lightly but firmly tap it with a drift punch to make it expand and set it. If you do not get welsh plugs with rebuild kit order them separate Ebay sells them.