We’d been watching the spring-loaded balancing act all morning. Fifty paces away, the HT Windlass Tip-Up’s horizontal arm unceremoniously dipped and slapped against a mild, January breeze. Twenty-five feet below the ice, the gusts were transforming a partially thawed, foot-long lake herring into a living baitfish once again. As the canvas walls of the portable shack blustered and swelled, the tip-up’s steel fin suddenly plunged into the hole, freeing the blaze-orange flag from the spool. Trudging over, my partner and I watched as yards of 65 pound Power Pro braid sizzled through the ten-inch opening in the ice. After a smooth series of hand over hand pulls, I was fast into our second heavy fish of the day. She was strong—staying well away from the hole on all but her final pass. And what a sweetheart: biceps-hard and as big across the back as a loaf of grandma’s bread. We’d kill for a pike of these proportions 6 months down the road while fighting the wind and sun in the Lund. After a quick photo, the muscular 42 incher was released, unharmed.

More big pike are taken through the ice than at any other time of year. These are the fish your don’t see in summer. It’s all about quality. Being able to access--and stake out--leviathan’s lair with oversized dead and live bait through the ice takes more big pike than any casting or trolling technique ever will. In addition, the cold-water period is simply the best time of the season for releasing the biggest northern you’ve ever encountered, period. Pike are at optimal body mass, and continue to feed actively right up until the spring spawn temporarily quells their appetite.

My introduction to “wind-bobber” fishing came as a young boy. Rooting through my father’s old pack sacks and worn wooden boxes, I was puzzled by foot-long, hatchet-shaped objects. Most were fashioned from light-gauge aluminum. Others were crafted from wood. Adorned with a large snap swivel at the business end, heavy, braided line was wrapped around a notched portion on the rig’s underside. A series of holes were interspersed along the top edge, allowing the unit to be carefully balanced over a hole in the ice. A pliable green stick or “gad,” as I heard it referred to later, was then secured in the slush. Wire was fixed to one of the many attachment holes, and then to the gad. Old and faded photos of family members and friends attest to the effectiveness of this pike fishing technique. Bundled against the gusting winds off Georgian Bay, wind-bobber fishing proved to be the undoing of many pike in the Bayfield Inlet area, near the present-day Naiscoot Lodge.

A wind bobber essentially incorporates the best qualities of jigging and set-line fishing, fusing them together to create a technique that really defies concrete classification. They’re used with dead bait and live bait; frozen bait and thawed bait; quick-strike rigs, single hooks, jig heads, and a host of other attractors. The key to the rig’s effectiveness can be summed up in two words: erratic movement. Are there two more significant words in the collective lexicon of pike fishing? Not that I know of. Add the scent of live bait, and you’ve got a surefire winner. Contrary to what you might think, northern pike have excellent olfactory receptors, and rely on their keen sense of smell for feeding during certain times of the year. Not surprisingly, baits that have an oily, smelly composition work very well for catching pike—especially during the dimness of winter. Sight-feeding takes a back seat under the blanket of ice and snow on our lakes and rivers. The combination of motion/vibration and potent, natural scent lies at the very core of wind-bobber fishing.

Those “two-hander” pike don’t reach that size by chasing clouds of 2” perch minnows or small shiners around. They’re keyed on eat big, easy to catch prey items with high nutritive value. There’s no better way to serve up a trophy-worthy bait than through the use of a wind activated tip-up. This technique is to pike fishing what 10” plastic worms or the jig ‘n pig is to the largemouth guys: a big-bite way of workin’.

Unlike rigs that present baitfish from a stationary position, wind-bobbers keep the business end of the fishing line in a constant state of motion, and this is critical to getting your bait into the fish’s zone of awareness. Once alerted to the presence of an easy target, big pike waste little time. When fishing with standard, cross-member tip-ups with sub-surface spool mechanisms, anglers must frequently move from hole to hole, “waking up” their minnows. While minnows will show more spunk in cold water, they’re prone to sitting motionless, unless gently disturbed periodically. A lone sucker or chub, tethered to a hook and weight and suspended near a pike-holding structure knows that remaining motionless improves its odds for survival. Motion and vibration alert pike to the presence of food. It’s here that the wind activated tip-up really shines.

Whether you’re using live or dead bait for big fish, wind-bobbers enhance your overall presentation tremendously. The erratic jumps and drops imparted by gusts of wind keep even lazy live baitfish on the move all day; frozen stiffs (my #1 choice) are brought back to life. The need to constantly check up on your minnow is all but eliminated. Actually, a properly rigged wind-bobber transmits what’s happening below the ice very clearly. They’re highly sensitive to motion of any kind. Live minnows as small as three and a half inches will bring the unit to life. Not surprisingly, I’ll rarely set-line for walleyes without at least one wind bobber in the mix.

Running out of live minnows isn’t the end of the world when you’re fishing with wind-activated tip-ups. Dead baits are given that all important, erratic movement. Couple this with their natural scent and realistic profile, and you’ve got a deadly pike-catching tool. What better way to catch a big, lazy fish than with a big, lazy bait. This style of fishing is so pure and so fundamental, a lot of guys I fish with are floored by the results it generates. Where legal, frozen or partially thawed herring and smelt are two of the best options for pike. Trophy northerns are keyed almost exclusively on these types of open-water forage. They represent a sizable and highly abundant source of nutrition that occupies their preferred temperature range. Never overlook the deep link between pelagic forage and a lake’s brood stock of huge northern pike, muskies, lake trout, walleye and even smallmouth bass. If forced to choose a singular technique, season and presentation for a pike over twenty-pounds, I’d an 8-inch frozen lake herring, fished under a wind-bobber during the first week in March without a second’s hesitation. Thigh-thick northerns have a real soft spot for thawed and/or semi-frozen baitfish. I’ve released too many braggin’ caliber fish to dispute this. Whether through the pure chemical attraction of a scent laden piece of meat moving erratically or through a more visceral, ‘easy target’ feeding dynamic, pike find deadbait too good to pass up in winter.

There are a few major presentation factors that need to be addressed when utilizing the wind-activated tip-up. As with any other style of fishing, success hinges on applying select techniques under conditions that are conducive to them performing at an optimal level. One of wind-bobber fishing’s most central considerations is air temperature. Because they feed line from above the ice, these rigs are prone to freeze-up at the water line. Days much below –10 degrees Celsius can rob the bait of any extra action, as the line will anchor itself into the hole in short order. However, a shifty, blustery wind keeps the line moving, allowing it remain free of ice longer. Mild, breezy days are ideal for this style of fishing. The month of March, and periodic mid-winter “thaw” periods can produce tremendous results. You can run these tip-ups on cold days—just be prepared to work hard keeping those holes free and sucking ice free from your fishing line with your lips.

Prevailing winds do play a major role, but they aren’t entirely necessary. I would rather fish on a calm, mild day than when it’s frigid and blowing uncontrollably. The reason being that even during wind-less conditions, a well-balanced wind-bobber is highly sensitive. Baited with a six to twelve inch minnow, winter pike fishing becomes a highly visual game of cat and mouse. Watching the arm of your favorite tip-up dip and bob is akin to fishing pike with buzzbaits or slip-floats. It’s exciting. Younger anglers will be glued to the hole before too long. Big pike hit hard, and they run hard. There is no mistaking the strike of a trophy pike on a wind activated tip-up. It’s usually a sledgehammer blow, followed by a spool-busting sprint away from the crime scene.

There are two main categories of wind-activated tip-ups. Some are a close relative of the old, aluminum jobs my father and grandfather fished with. These units usually sport a detachable line holder, and are designed to be suspended above the hole on a limber, green stick. The line is held in place by a small notch at the terminal end of the wind-bobber. High-strength plastic has replaced wood and metal, but these units are fished in precisely the same manner. A series of holes along the outfit’s “spine” allows it to be precision balanced based on the amount of weight being used and the size of the bait. The best method I have found for easy attachment is a large snap swivel. Old cannonball clips are ideal. Fix the rig to the stick using a short length of light cord.

Detaching the spool apparatus is a good idea. Strip off thirty to fifty feet of line, and lay the spool away from the hole. This allows a pike to grab the bait and feel little or no additional resistance as it charges off. A walleye-weight downrigger release or alligator clip on the business end of the wind-bobber releases the line upon the strike. I’ve had pike pull the entire set-up down the hole when the line failed to peel off cleanly. Bites are a loud, raucous event. Finesse doesn’t enter the equation when a 40-inch pike grabs a big baitfish. The tripping of the spool, or the sharp rap created by the unit hitting the stick mean it’s time to move! Things happen fast when you run wind-activated tip-ups.

One of the best wind-bobbers in this style is the Fish Hawk, made in Sudbury, Ontario. Shaped roughly like a boomerang, the Fish Hawk can be fished with the spool attached or removed, and comes complete with an adjustable fin. The units come in yellow and bright red. Under the right conditions, the Fish Hawk sways and spins in a 360-degree arc, lifting and dropping the bait all the while. Rigged properly, they’re a thing of beauty to watch.

A more refined version is the HT “Windlass” model. I use these extensively. And until a better mousetrap comes along, I’ll continue to do so. The unit folds down for easy carrying, and is comprised of a base, vertical post and a horizontal arm. A steel fin is molded into the arm. It catches the wind, helping to impart action to the bait. The line is threaded through a hole in the fin. A long, fine spring is used to set the position of the arm/fin section. On days when there’s minimal wind, adjust the unit so that the arm rests no lower than the 2 ‘o clock position. Positioning the fin higher helps it to catch more air, imparting more action down in the strike zone. The spool is held in place by a length of spring-steel, adorned with an indicator flag. The flag is tripped when a fish pulls the line, much like standard tip-ups. The fin will also bury itself into the hole. “Tip-up” is a bit of a misnomer; the rigs actually tip sharply downward upon the strike. You’ll know when you’ve got one on, believe me.

One of the keys to effectively fishing a wind-bobber is to add sufficient weight to your line. Having some resistance below the water helps the unit to balance itself, making it more sensitive. For magnum suckers or frozen herring, I’ll thread a 1/8 to ½ ounce egg sinker onto the line twelve to twenty-four inches from the bait. A selection of Rubber-core and large split shot sinkers rounds out my weight selection.

Braided line is far superior to monofilament, due to its low memory and visibility on ice and snow. I’m partial to lines testing in the 28 to 65 pound range. Power Pro and Spiderwire Fusion are two of my confidence lines. They’re simply unbreakable. In addition, their lack of stretch transmits motion crisply and directly down to the bait no matter how far below the ice you’ve hung it, no matter how little wind the unit is catching. Black, 30# Dacron is also a great option. Stopping a big pike in its tracks calls for stout tackle. This is especially true when fishing with large baits and quick-strike rigs. More often than not, you’ll be sinking the hook while the fish running full-bore. The bigger the pike, the harder he’ll run with the bait. A tell-tale sign of a good fish is the tip-up’s spool. I know I’ve got a good one when I can hear it whirring away before I can see it. The line will melt away. While big pike won’t run more than 30’ or so at a time once the fight is on, they can and will strip out over 150’ of line after the initial take with lightning speed. Be sure to load up on at least 80 yards of your line of choice.

Hand-line fishing, without the aid of a rod and reel to absorb shock and tire your opponent, requires specialized tackle and a lot of patience. More fish are lost at the hole than anywhere else. You might get her close on the first try but rest assured, a big fish won’t roll over. Those penetrating rays of light signal danger. Expect to play the pike patiently and have several shots at her near the hole. Once she’s ready, manipulate the line until she’s perpendicular, head up. A gentle hand under the gill cover is all it takes. Support bigger fish with both hands while a partner unbuttons her. I’ve never carried a gaff and never intend to. Hand-bombing fish through the ice is something I’m comfortable doing, and I rarely, if ever, miss a fish.

The sky’s the limit when terminal rigging your wind-bobbers. When fishing with frozen/thawed smelt and herring, a small finishing nail inserted into the vent keeps the bait perfectly horizontal and looking natural. I carry some in a water-tight plastic film canister. Quick strike-rigging produces best when one barb is nicked into the bait’s dorsal-area while the other is placed near the eye socket or gill plate. Pike usually hit jumbo prey with a knock out punch head first, as a means of subduing it instantly. All of my big wooden jerkbaits and plastic trolling plugs sport up-sized lead trebles for precisely this reason. I switch out the standard lead hook and add the next size up.

Having the bait hang horizontally is critical. You also want it to break away when you hit the fish. A foot-long piece of frozen meat can interfere with your hook-set. Lightly knick those stingers in. You’ll know you’ve got it right when the bait stays put amid the day-long darting and dropping, hangs naturally and allows the hooks to bury the fish cleanly.

Treble or single hooks should be selected based on the bait being used. As a general rule, larger, heavier hooks are better suited to dead baiting, while smaller, less obstructive models work better with live minnows. Eagle Claw makes the finest pike fishing treble I’ve found. Stock them from #8 all the way up to #2.

Quick-strike rigs are excellent when live releasing trophy pike using large baits. In Ontario waters, no more than four hook points are permitted on rigs that do not qualify as “lures.” Partridge and HT make quick-strikes that are very good.

Jig heads in the ¼ to ½ ounce size are also an overlooked rigging option. Fluorescent colors such a lime green, chartreuse and fire red add additional visual appeal. When pike are off the bite, a three to four-inch shiner lightly hooked through the dorsal area on a light jig often produces when nothing else will. I’ve taken pike from 18 to 24 pounds with this technique under some pretty tough mid-winter frontal conditions.

Catching outrageously big pike with wind-activated live bait delivery systems is one of those fringe techniques that gets passed over in the grand scheme of winter fishing. It’s highly productive, and unparalleled in terms of sensory appeal—to both fish and fisherman. Always remain flexible in terms of your bait selection and rigging options; wind-bobber fishing is open to experimentation. I’ve been fortunate enough to take several pike over the 20 pound mark over the years, and there’s no question: the wind tip-up and an oversized dead or live baitfish is my giant killer of choice. Photographing, measuring, weighing and releasing is the only way we can ensure ongoing access to these beautiful creatures. Pike under 5 pounds from winter waters are great eating but trust me, you’ll be running to the 1 Hour Photo after a big release more often than not once you learn and apply the intricacies of this technique. Bigger-than-average fish are the rule when hunting with big baits and wind bobbers. Tell the folks at the photo counter I say ‘hi.’ The biggest pike of your season might just blow in on the next winter wind.

About the author....

JP Bushey is an avid multi-species angler who spends in excess of 120 days a year fishing and guiding on Ontario's pristine lakes and rivers.