Kdrill owners chime in... driling issues.

[pooch2543]

I just tried my 8 inch K-Drill today and had the exact same results, using the Fuel M18. I previously had the 8 inch Nils with Clam plate and I think this is better. Toady I punched about 10 holes in 5-6 inches of ice and only used 1 quarter of the battery.

You didn't say what drill you were using? I have been punching lots of holes with my 8" k drill and m18 fuel no problem and no clam plate. I have yet to run out a battery, but it is my first year with it and we only have 9" of ice so far. Yes I do need slight down pressure but not much. So far in my opinion it is one of the best things for ice fishing I have ever bought. It drills the ice about 1 inch per second and only weighs 10 Lbs. So far everyone who has seen me use it or tried it themselves is amazed.

[pooch2543]

Again, same type of results with my tests today. I love this thing. It is so light and easy to use. Just apply a little down pressure. I am not using the Clam Plate either. Fast too, about 1 inch per second.

I own the 8" k drill with M18 Fuel drill. Cut holes for the first time all last weekend with it through about 14" of ice. The only pressure I put on the drill was just the pressure of my hands holing onto the drill. I could get about 25-30 holes per 5.0 ah battery. We did a drill off between the new Ion X and my 8" k drill and the k drill smoked the Ion X handily. The k drill made drilling easy and not a heavy pain in the a$$. I would recommend buying one to anybody.

[crappieslayer37]

I understand that they say that it will bite and pull itself down and if it doesn't that's false advertisement, but what is the big deal with having to apply slight downpressure while your drill is doing the work

[Ice Scratcher]

1 inch a second is not fast...

A kdrill isn't fast, nor is any chipper auger. They "spin their tires" a lot, as they are meant to do.. That's why all chipper style augers have a much faster recommended RPM range to make up for the tire spin (look at Jiffys).. They are a rougher, non critical type of cut. That's exactly what allows them to cut dirty ice, refroze holes, and still work when dull.. This tire spin is also exactly why chipper blades don't grab, and make for an easy machine to run for lighter weight people like kids..

Chipper blades have their place for sure.. Make sure the blades are sharp by learning to sharpen them yourself..

Ice can vary so much, some of it is really hard.. Depending on the hardness, a chipper style might need a little weight to bite in...

Two inches a second is doing alright...

<°)))>{

[Fisherman-Andy]

Couple things, but let's start with the fact that you're doing it wrong and *you know* you're doing it wrong...

No version of the K-drill needs a Clam Plate, so right there it tells me that you aren't using the correct drill - they specify the model number of the drill for the reason that it's essentially necessary to get the "right" experience.

The K-drill has a spike on it, it can't *not* grab into the ice...so I have no clue what you're doing.

For K-drill owners who bought the auger and got the correct drill, little to no downward pressure is necessary - it certainly isn't for my k-drill auger with attached Milwaukee Fuel M18 1/2".

So there's the answer to your question - you're doing it wrong.

The amount of internet slandering in here is ridiculous...

 Let me clarify, I have at one point owned and used every gas auger( Strikemaster, Eskimo, Jiffy, Nils, Kdrill) on the market.  I have owned or used electric drill and or clam plate setups the last 3 years.  I am not newbie, originally used the M18 Fuel 2604 1st gen back then and when the new M18 Fuel gen 2 2704 hammer drill came out I swap to that cause it had more power in lbs torque. Kdrill is not something new to me this year ive used it in past.  Im well aware of its design and background from Kluge Augers.

To re-clarify myself and from hearing other kdrill users I am finding mix results how a Kdrill is performing straight out of the retail box.  I have had a Kdrill and know a couple other who say their Kdrill need no pressure to cut, just weight alone of the clam plate or drill and it will pull down and drill.  While others say they do need add slight down pressure.  My last Kdrill 8" new out of the box required slight down pressure to cut on drill only or on clam plate, otherwise it just spins even after you cut 4 inches down, no slight pressure no cut at all. 
No I am not refuting the part that the manual says you need to apply slight down pressure.  I am basically giving my prior experience with multiple kdrill units and how they are performing differently.

My original question was to ask when you used your Kdrill do you need to apply slight down pressure or not?  From what it seems I have gotten mix feedback similar to my experience.  So i have sent an email to Vexilar/Kluge to put rest my curiousity so that I dont feel that I have a defective product not performing the way its expected to. 

Thanks to those who responded or gave feedback in a civil manner accordingly to the topic.

[Moosekill]

I think you may also be running into people's definition of no downward pressure.  If I have a drill that I have to lean on and put my 200pounds plus of weight on to make it drill i consider that downward pressure.  If I rest my hands on the drill handle and pull down ever so slightly I might well tell you I am not putting any downwards pressure on the drill.  Even though technically I am.  This is really a sill thread.

[Skywagon]

I think you may also be running into people's definition of no downward pressure.  If I have a drill that I have to lean on and put my 200pounds plus of weight on to make it drill i consider that downward pressure.  If I rest my hands on the drill handle and pull down ever so slightly I might well tell you I am not putting any downwards pressure on the drill.  Even though technically I am.  This is really a sill thread.
[/quote

I agree!

[Northern_MN Outdoorsan]

My neighbor and I did a speed test the other weekend between my 8" K Drill and his new 8" Ion X auger. The K Drill beat the Ion X handily through 14" of ice. We only drilled one hole a piece so I don't know for sure but the K Drill was so much faster than the Ion X that the K Drill could probably drill almost 2 holes to every one the Ion X does. I also just got the new Milwaukee 9.0 battery in the mail yesterday. I am going to be trying it out this weekend. I should be able to now drill close to 100 holes through 20" or less of ice with my K Drill and 2 5.0 batteries and the one 9.0 battery.

[52isntbigenough]

You didn't say what drill you were using? I have been punching lots of holes with my 8" k drill and m18 fuel no problem and no clam plate. I have yet to run out a battery, but it is my first year with it and we only have 9" of ice so far. Yes I do need slight down pressure but not much. So far in my opinion it is one of the best things for ice fishing I have ever bought. It drills the ice about 1 inch per second and only weighs 10 Lbs. So far everyone who has seen me use it or tried it themselves is amazed.

I was out on a lake down here this past weekend with one of my buddies who just pieced together his Fuell M18 and Kdrill 8".......let's put it this way. No way am I spending 500-600 on a gas or propane auger next year. I'm 100% on board with this set up after using to drill about 50 holes.

Drop me an IM at the end of the season and let me know how your set up handled 20+" this winter.

[Ice Scratcher]

No version of the K-drill needs a Clam Plate, so right there it tells me that you aren't using the correct drill - they specify the model number of the drill for the reason that it's essentially necessary to get the "right" experience.

Really..

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=5rMGR0up0-A

Looks like I would want the plate in that situation..

<°)))>{

[Sharp Nils]

KDrills slow, a lot of torque and eats batteries.
. Unless you have some vested interest in kdrill, Stop arguing and making excuses. Get a Nils Master.

[3300]

andy, my 6" lazer used to use no extra pressure other than the weight of my arms and drill. after 10 years or so with the same auger, it now wants me to push down on it. i can see it looks like a slight bend in the section that holds the blade that isn't attached to the flite. so this means only one blade is cutting or only one blade is leading the cut. the only way i can see this change is the paint has a missing line of paint going up and down in that area that holds the blade.

so the slight change you noticed from your first bit is probably the answer to your question. what type of change did you see?

Really..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=5rMGR0up0-A
Looks like I would want the plate in that situation..

off topic, but this guy should learn how to hold a bit straight lol! he for sure needs some help with a extra large handle big time!!
he kept changing the cutting angle numerous times in the 2nd and 3rd hole and binding it every time he did so. he also allowed his hands to turn so they were not side by side and instead allowed them to turn so one was straight out in front of him and one close to his center of his body. that was very dangerous too! he is going to get hurt like that.
you need to keep your hands in front of each shoulder.
also, if that's the new 1200 inch pound drill, then no thank you! the motor stopped when he changed his cutting angle like 6 or 7 times.

thanks for the video, it made me laugh!!

[iceman10]

Looked like his battery might be about dead to me & yep gotta hold the bit level (straight) . On second year & my K-drill has never done what what this video shown .

[riverfisherman]

I can't agree more with Frank (sharp nils) . You will get two to three times as many holes with the nils at least and do it three times faster on one battery. Believe me I have tested them side by side.

[iceman10]

I can't agree more with Frank (sharp nils) . You will get two to three times as many holes with the nils at least and do it three times faster on one battery. Believe me I have tested them side by side.

We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling

[pooch2543]

Iceman....I agree with you, my thoughts exactly.
 
quote author=iceman10 link=topic=339212.msg3641875#msg3641875 date=1485212791]
We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling
[/quote]

[Damn Yankee]

We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling

Everything said is true.
But, the Nils is very finicky. Dirty Ice, Debris (wood, leaves), I even saw a "Foul Mouthed Heathen" swear in front of my friends Nils
and it stopped cutting. $12 USPS Priority Mail each way and $20 for the service leaves the Nils 1 week AWOL with a $44 bill for sharpening.

[riverfisherman]

I know the sharpening is free for the kdrill but is the $12.00 USPS Priority Mail included also? How many times will you be able to sharpen them before you need to buy a new set of blades for $40.00 especially when it's at there discretion if they can be sharpened or not?  They say to allow at least 3 weeks to get your kdrill  blades sharped! 
Dirty ice, debris,wood ect. will dull any blades it just that the chipper blades will continue to try to cut it will just take longer, use more battery and and be harder on your drill.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

Everything said is true.
But, the Nils is very finicky. Dirty Ice, Debris (wood, leaves), I even saw a "Foul Mouthed Heathen" swear in front of my friends Nils
and it stopped cutting. $12 USPS Priority Mail each way and $20 for the service leaves the Nils 1 week AWOL with a $44 bill for sharpening.

To tell you the truth both the Nils and the k drill are over priced by far. If a guy buys and uses either its not because of price.....

Here  is my run down On what stuff cost me....yeah the Kdrill and nils are nice, but if a guy just wants a decent auger that does a good job drillin holes a simple 8in $40 shaver is hard to beat not really any reason for spending more.

Nils 8in hand auger $125 (cabelas sale &free ship)
Nils 8in power point of craigslist sharpend by frank D. used $40 
On 3rd year still havent had original blade sharpened and it cuts great.
Nils total $165

K-drill $190 8in
spare blades $40
k-drll total $230

8in lazer $80
blades $25
lazer total $105

Mora $40
blades $10
total $50

IMO a reason for a person to kinda justify or reason to by the k-drill or nils is because they are both augers with pilot points on them (If you get the Power Point nils head) This is extremely nice when cutting a hole inside your ice castle or wheel house for positioning and starting holes. Which is why I got the drill setup and the 8in Nils.

Where the nils has a few better points over the k-drill is the actual hole size is a little over 8in. The K-drill is only 7 1/2 in. A larger hole is handy when the cold is on and your holes are shrinking. Also the Nils length is nice. On a clam plate It's tall enough you shouldnt need and extention....I did buy a flight extention but have never needed it in the wheel house yet.

The point for the k-drill is that it has a chipper style blade which reopens holes a lot easier/nicer.

To sum things up unless a guy has a shack that he wants a starting point on an auger. I'd just buy a mora for $40 cheap to start cheap to maintain and cuts just fine.

[52isntbigenough]

I just want to know where you guys are getting KDrills for 190.00?

[iceman10]

Sportsman guide $188

[Agronomist_at_IA]

I just want to know where you guys are getting KDrills for 190.00?

just look around for a deal. a nils usually runs $180-$190 for the 8in. I ordered from cabelas a few years ago and they were on sale and had a ticket for another $25 off and free ship.....like anything you can find a deal on the internet.