Ice blanks

[pyro261]

Does anyone know of anywhere that sells nice blanks for ice rods?  I've made a few on MHX blanks.  DH has some that I want to try out, but wasn't thrilled with the color options.  Jann's has them as well but I'm skeptical to say the least of their blanks when they are selling them for $3.00.

Thorne Bros don't seem to sell blanks anymore, or at least I couldn't navigate to a page where they're located if they do.

Anyone have an option that I have missed?

[Shoe]

I have been looking at them here:

http://sportsmensdirect.com/

But haven't bought anything yet from them.

s

[VanderLaan]

Nothing wrong with a cheap glass blank.  Depends what you are looking for.  I have several extreme taper blanks from Sportsmen's Direct and am quite pleased.

[pyro261]

Nothing wrong with a cheap glass blank.  Depends what you are looking for.  I have several extreme taper blanks from Sportsmen's Direct and am quite pleased.

I ordered a 34" one to try out.

[jwetovick]

DH still has the best noodle blank I've used or built on. That being said the sportsmens direct extreme taper glass and carbon blanks are good blanks for the money. Have built many on their blanks. If you want to experiment you can play around sanding the tips down a bit. I will say thought, if you are looking for a noodle blank its hard to beat DH blanks for $20 but if you don't like the colors he offers that stinks. Thorne Bros sell their blanks but basically put a price on them so high they don't sell many. I purchased a quiverstick blank from them when i was starting to build rods just to compare. I believe I paid like $40 or more for that blank. Not worth the extra IMO. If you are just getting into rod building i would suggest Sportsmen's direct extreme taper glass blanks at $4. Good luck

[RyanW]

You won't get a better blank for the money anywhere other than sportsmen direct. Their 32" extreme taper glass blank, as is, works great as a jigging rod for small spoons and rippin' raps, small minnows. I built 4 32" glass rods last year for friends and they work great. SD's stock for black fiberglass hwi extreme taper blanks is low right now so you may have to opt for unpainted if you want glass. Be aware you will have to apply rod finish (varnish, permagloss, cpxtra, etc.) to the raw fiberglass, unless you want microscopic glass slivers in your fingers. I just bought some 34" unpainted glass blanks. The 34" and 48" blanks have a longer "noodle" section and as is would make a decent "Bullwhip" (tuned up custom rods) rod. I'm trimming them to 30" from the butt and sanding a more sensitive noodle tip into them. Finishing the blanks in tinted cpxtra and wrapping em up.

Give SD a shot, they carry many quality blanks that can be tuned to any need. Also, 1mm tips are too small for most spring bobbers if that's your thing. Most people build with these blanks to achieve noodle status but they work very well as a general species/application rod as is. Deadstick, noodle, bobber, finesse...Build the rod your looking for without spending $30-$40 on a blank. At those prices I'd rather shell out the extra and just buy a custom from DH,TB, or TUCR. You'll almost be there after you buy components anyways. But where's the fun in that!

Have fun and build some rods.

[mistertwister]

I've been looking into this as well! Any opinions on a light action blank? I'm looking just for a rod for tiny jigs and making a st.croix style spring bobber. I don't want a blank thats too light in action though, looking for a light action (for panfish) thats got some decent backbone  just in case I get a bass or something bigger on. Any suggestions?

[JiggingIowa]

I've been looking into this as well! Any opinions on a light action blank? I'm looking just for a rod for tiny jigs and making a st.croix style spring bobber. I don't want a blank thats too light in action though, looking for a light action (for panfish) thats got some decent backbone  just in case I get a bass or something bigger on. Any suggestions?

Do you have experience with rod building? If you do then I would go with the al dente blank from dhcustom rods ($22). If you don't have much experience I would get 4 or 5 extreme taper fiberglass blanks from SD ($5) and practice sanding them to get the finesse in the tip you're looking for. The guides are also going to be important as far as a finesse rod goes.

[mistertwister]

Do you have experience with rod building? If you do then I would go with the al dente blank from dhcustom rods ($22). If you don't have much experience I would get 4 or 5 extreme taper fiberglass blanks from SD ($5) and practice sanding them to get the finesse in the tip you're looking for. The guides are also going to be important as far as a finesse rod goes.

I've never tried it before but it seems like it would be a fun project to tackle before the ice is on. I'm assuming with a little research I can find some videos that show the basics of sanding positioning of guides etc...

[defish]

I've been looking into this as well! Any opinions on a light action blank? I'm looking just for a rod for tiny jigs and making a st.croix style spring bobber. I don't want a blank thats too light in action though, looking for a light action (for panfish) thats got some decent backbone  just in case I get a bass or something bigger on. Any suggestions?

If you are going to install a spring bobber I'd look at the solid carbon Extreme taper blanks or else trim the back the soft tip on a fiberglass ET blank.  The glass blanks already have a "spring bobber" like action, and putting a spring bobber on one would be like installing a spring bobber on a spring bobber.  The IHS blanks are also an option.

[RyanW]

If you are adding a spring bobber, why sand the blank at all?

Sanding a blank isn't hard and you will be surprised how fast you can chew through one. The most difficult part, IMO, is wrapping a size 3 fly guide on a 1mm tip.

Find the spline of the blank, gently bend the blank and rotate it. It will "snap" into place when the spline is bent in the right direction. Mark the blank on the side of the spline you want your guides. Align the reel seat (if you use one) on your grip. Install grip with glue/epoxy. Install winding check. Wrap guides on the bottom of the spline for spinning/ fly guides and guides on top for casting guides. Align the guides straight on the spline and affix with masking tape. Looking down the blank after each one to ensure proper alignment.  Wrap em up. Then fine tune the alignment of the guides before you apply epoxy, they will move a little bit. Apply epoxy. Let dry. Repeat thread epoxy if necessary.

If you want to sand, Chuck it a drill and start with atleast 400/600 grit wet sandpaper and work up to atleast 1000 grit wet sand paper and go slowly on the area to wish to sand. You're only taking off fractions of a millimeter. Finish sand the rest of the blank with 1000+ grit wet sandpaper and apply a finish like permagloss, cpxtra, or varnish. Apply more finish if necessary, then assemble rod as stated above.

A big piece of advice is to get a small metal file and prep your guide feet to a gradual slope. File the bottom of the guide feet to ensure an even bottom and file the edges so you don't cut your thread wraps. Prepping your guide feet not only makes it much much easier to actually wrap the guides on (keeping them in position and physically on the rod after you remove the masking tape that we used to place them earlier) but it also makes for a much more professional looking wrap. Again, you aren't taking off much material, fractions of a millimeter, just enough to make it easier on the builder. A properly prepped guide also helps to ensure the tunnels between the guide feet and the blank (created by the thread used to wrap the guide) can accept as much epoxy as possible so you don't end up with loose guides down the road. A guide file is my most treasured tool lol.

I like to use Pro-Kote thread epoxy for wraps and Pro-Paste fast set to glue my handles on. The ProWrap colorfast nylon thread also works well for me and makes some pretty nice tiger wraps, which are also pretty simple to create, yet beautiful. I use a size 12 pacbay minima spinning guide as my first guide, then a size 5 fly guide, then a size 4 fly, then a size 3 fly, then finally a size 3 fly for the tip. That's for a 30" rod. If I want a split-grip I just cut 1.5"s off the bottom of the grip (either cork or Eva), glue on the butt and space the handle so there is a 2" space between the butt and the handle. DONT FORGET THE WINDING CHECKS FOR THIS STEP! Once the handle is glued on, it's on!

Building an ice rod is a very simple process. It can get frustrating sometimes but that's what makes it fun. After the initial setup of tools and equipment, you can make a quality rod for relatively cheap. Aside from having fun being willing to make mistakes, and learn from them, is the most important part of the process.

[BigSling]

DONT FORGET THE WINDING CHECKS FOR THIS STEP!

A very good summary. I don't want to totally hijack the thread but where have you found winding checks small enough for ice blanks? I've struggled there and read about everything from epoxy ramps to using plumbing supplies like washers/o-rings.

[defish]

The most difficult part, IMO, is wrapping a size 3 fly guide on a 1mm tip.

Below is a photo of the prototype tip wrapping attachment that I made for my hand wrapper.  While the rod in the wrapper has a glue on tip guide, it's as easy to wrap a fly guide on the tip using this as it is to wrap the other guides.  It's essentially a spacer block attached to the thread carriage with a removable bridge piece attached to it with a 3/32" hole drilled between the two parts for the blank to fit through.  It also works well for wrapping the rest of the guides on a springy blank - just loosen the screws enough for the blank to fit.

Dan

[RyanW]

Nice rig Dan, mines made from wood too, looks more like the flexcoat stands and i use my wife's hair ties to hold the blank down, works great!

BigSlingin, the cheapest I've found them is at flyshack.com 20 cents a piece. For the SD blanks I use I get the 5.1mm slim black rubber/vinyl. Other places like mudhole carry them but they are $1 a piece and after shipping, you can get almost 20 at flyshack opposed to 2 from mudhole. It's worth the separate order to me if you plan on building a few rods.

Also, small hook keepers look and work very nicely on ice rods. When the rest of my supplies come in, I'll start a rod build thread and keep everyone posted. I also didn't mention earlier that the fly guides I use are american tackle single foot fly guides.

[pyro261]

A very good summary. I don't want to totally hijack the thread but where have you found winding checks small enough for ice blanks? I've struggled there and read about everything from epoxy ramps to using plumbing supplies like washers/o-rings.

I found small diameter winding checks from Get Bit. http://www.getbitoutdoors.com/components/winding-checks/forecast-winding-checks/forecast-black-rubber-winding-checks.html

If you want something other than rubber, the Alps aluminum ones go down to 5mm.  Haven't found anything smaller than that though.  Hoping to be able to make use of them.  I used one on a 7' rod and they look pretty slick.

[uncleshorty]

Just ordered Mudhole's MHX Turnkey Ice Rod Kit.

That should get me re-started in rod building, a hobby I shelved 50 years ago.

I don't know a whole lot about buying blanks but I'll learn.  In the process I'll, hopefully, make some serviceable rods.

I'm going to take the best crafted rod of the three and donate it to my American Legion Post in PA.  I might include a Fiblink Inline Ice Fishing Reel, line & leader, some terminal tackle and a box of ice flies & jigs.

Should make a nice package to auction off as an "extra" prize at the gun raffle this year.

[OIM]

If you are adding a spring bobber, why sand the blank at all?

Sanding a blank isn't hard and you will be surprised how fast you can chew through one. The most difficult part, IMO, is wrapping a size 3 fly guide on a 1mm tip.

Why wrap a guide when SDI makes Tip tops that size?

[defish]

Why wrap a guide when SDI makes Tip tops that size?

Personal preference I guess.  It gets easier to wrap fly guides on for tip tops after you've done a few.  Fly guides are a bit lighter with more flexibility for hoop size and they fit all sized blank tips.  I've done both, but am leaning toward fly guides for future builds.

Dan

[OIM]

Personal preference I guess.  It gets easier to wrap fly guides on for tip tops after you've done a few.  Fly guides are a bit lighter with more flexibility for hoop size and they fit all sized blank tips.  I've done both, but am leaning toward fly guides for future builds.

Dan

I like the tip tops from SDI thay have many different sizes of rings and fit on a tip as small .9mm. I know when I build up on thier Flat Tip Blank, which is the same blank they made the Flat Line II and a simlar blank to the tickle sticks from 13 I will have to wrap a tip on because the blank is flat.

[defish]

I like the tip tops from SDI thay have many different sizes of rings and fit on a tip as small .9mm. I know when I build up on thier Flat Tip Blank, which is the same blank they made the Flat Line II and a simlar blank to the tickle sticks from 13 I will have to wrap a tip on because the blank is flat.

I like both the glue on conventional tip tops and wrapping on a fly guide, and like you said SDI has many options to choose from.  I've been using epoxy to glue on my tip tops.  It's hard (for me anyway) to get much of the glue stick type tip top cement in those tiny tubes, and it's NOT coming off with epoxy - though the solid tube guides have to be held in place until the epoxy sets or the air trapped in the tube pushes them out from the tip.

You bring up an interesting subject about wrapping a tip guide on the Flat Tip Blank.  That might be a challenge on some style wrappers with the blank not being round it could be difficult to control the blank while turning it in the wrapper.  Maybe a piece of wooden dowel split with a fine saw and taped to the blank?  Let us know how wrapping your Flat Tip rod goes and how you like the rod when it's done.

[matzilla]

Sportsmans is great and I love a lot of their blanks but MHX's quiverstick is a great all around rod with some tweaking.
I wont give away all of the secrets but the best bullwhip noodle blank out there is at Sportsmans and its not an UL - only takes about 5 minutes of sanding to get the action perfect. Buy all of their 'glass blanks, measure them up and you'll see what I mean. They also carry perfectly sized winding checks for ice rods. If you want a local source just go to a hardware store and get some old fashioned style faucet "washers"

[OIM]

I like both the glue on conventional tip tops and wrapping on a fly guide, and like you said SDI has many options to choose from.  I've been using epoxy to glue on my tip tops.  It's hard (for me anyway) to get much of the glue stick type tip top cement in those tiny tubes, and it's NOT coming off with epoxy - though the solid tube guides have to be held in place until the epoxy sets or the air trapped in the tube pushes them out from the tip.

You bring up an interesting subject about wrapping a tip guide on the Flat Tip Blank.  That might be a challenge on some style wrappers with the blank not being round it could be difficult to control the blank while turning it in the wrapper.  Maybe a piece of wooden dowel split with a fine saw and taped to the blank?  Let us know how wrapping your Flat Tip rod goes and how you like the rod when it's done.

I have to get in the mood to build an ice rod..... Maybe once the weather turns a bit colder I will get on it. I am going to modifie the tip even more I think also so it is tuned for 2mm and 3mm tungsten jigs. I also have to either paint the blank or I might just clear coat it and leave it raw looking. Choices O Choices that is what making your own rods fun.

[defish]

I have to get in the mood to build an ice rod..... Maybe once the weather turns a bit colder I will get on it. I am going to modifie the tip even more I think also so it is tuned for 2mm and 3mm tungsten jigs. I also have to either paint the blank or I might just clear coat it and leave it raw looking. Choices O Choices that is what making your own rods fun.

Which length flat tip did you get? 

A finish option that a pro rod builder told me about is to just use a permanent magic marker to color glass blanks.  Haven't tried it, but it would be a lot easier than painting.  Maybe try it on a scrap blank or a butt that's going to be covered with a grip to see if you like it.

[OIM]

Which length flat tip did you get? 

A finish option that a pro rod builder told me about is to just use a permanent magic marker to color glass blanks.  Haven't tried it, but it would be a lot easier than painting.  Maybe try it on a scrap blank or a butt that's going to be covered with a grip to see if you like it.

Krylon Fusion works well for painting blanks. Just hang them in a long box with the end sticking out and paint , spin and paint. then let dry. I slide a winding check that is two small onto the end of the blank and it holds the blank in place so i can paint it hands free.

 I got the 24 inch Flat Tip I have to mark out the tip martial I am going to take off and then figure out do i want to sand it or cut it off with a knife and straight edge

[defish]

Krylon Fusion works well for painting blanks. Just hang them in a long box with the end sticking out and paint , spin and paint. then let dry. I slide a winding check that is two small onto the end of the blank and it holds the blank in place so i can paint it hands free.

 I got the 24 inch Flat Tip I have to mark out the tip martial I am going to take off and then figure out do i want to sand it or cut it off with a knife and straight edge

Great idea OIM with the winding check and box paint booth for painting blanks!  That's one I'll be using!

Is the tip too soft that you want to trim it? I really don't think I'd cut a rod blank with a knife and straight edge - it's likely to splinter.  The sharp corner edge of a bench grinder wheel, or a cut-off attachment on a Dremel/cut off grinder work good - a very fine triangular file also works if you take your time and are careful.  I've used the bench grinder and dremel methods, and have read on rodbuilding.org about the file approach.

[OIM]

Great idea OIM with the winding check and box paint booth for painting blanks!  That's one I'll be using!

Is the tip too soft that you want to trim it? I really don't think I'd cut a rod blank with a knife and straight edge - it's likely to splinter.  The sharp corner edge of a bench grinder wheel, or a cut-off attachment on a Dremel/cut off grinder work good - a very fine triangular file also works if you take your time and are careful.  I've used the bench grinder and dremel methods, and have read on rodbuilding.org about the file approach.

The Flat Tip Blank might work best to cut if it doesnt I will be takeing a sanding block to it. I will draw out the pattern of the tip I want and clamp in a vise carefully and sand it down. Kinda like planing a piece of wood