New lx7, what should I set it at?

[redneckdan]

My lx7 showed up today. I an going to run over to the pit this evening and give it a try off the dock. What should I set the parameters to as a starting point? Approx 25' deep over a hard bottom.

[3300]

SETTINGS:
MODE-open water mode for shallow water and ice mode for more than 10 fow. now with new firmware (late 2016), mode 1 was open water mode and mode 2 was ice mode.
DEPTH-manual or dynamic manual (for depth). i like dynamic manual depth.
IR-0 ir. turn it up if some one is glitching your sonar.
PING RATE-1 on ping rate. this is speed of the graph. 1 is best for ice fishing being it is the slowest setting.
CHARTS DISPLAY-graph, then vertical then dash board, then vertical zoom.
BACKGROUND COLOR-i use black background color. now with their camera, there is no color, just what the camera see's.
COLOR PALATE-6 color palate. best target separation choice.
target-0 target. increase this if you want to use the normal water column/display with bigger lines.
GAIN-start low on sensitivity and work it up until you get a bottom and your jig. new firmware has it about half way up for gain now for starting out.
TRANSDUCER-keep only an inch of the bottom of the puck in the water.
BEAM-narrow beam, (has best target separation and helps you know how close fish are to your jig and the dash board shows how many feet it is seeing of bottom).
ZOOM-auto zoom, (but has infinite if you want to extend it up the water column).
enjoy!

PS:
watch for a new firmware/upgrade software to be released this early/middle january for shallow water missing water on the top to be resolved. it will be on marcumtech.com upgrades for free.

you tube vid to help you along also.

lx6/7 update firmware to 5.10 will see a need to turn up the gain to 8 to start with.

thanks matt!

[redneckdan]

Gave it a shot. Worked pretty good! Started in 17' and was able to dial it in so I had a fairly clean bottom line, didn't have a real crisp red line for bottom which was some what puzzling. Dropped a jigging rap and was able to follow it all the way to the bottom. Found the bottom to be squishy and ended up pulling in a wad of milf oil. Guess that would be why I didn't have a sharply defined bottom signal. Moved to 40' and dialed it in again, still had the slightly fuzzy signal and again pulled up milf oil on the rap.

So what I am wondering is, if I am fishing a weedy bottom and a fish comes in on bottom in the weeds will I be able to see it? Or will it be lost in the greens and blues over the red bottom signal?

[3300]

should be able to see it as a "next up color" or the next colors above the last color you tuned it into. say you have tuned it down to blue for the weeds, red for the bottom and a fish comes in and makes part of it yellow or green or red, then you know some thing is moving because of the color change. so your not changing targets, only the color is changing your tuned sonar to let you know some thing is there. use the graph to help distinguish those subtle movements too. that s the big advantage and the vertical zoom.

you'll enjoy it when you get used to it.

in weeds you might want to go narrow beam to remove unneeded information about all the weeds it see's. try fishing just outside the weed bed and catch them coming and going to the weeds.

[Eaglecrg]

I have an LX-5 and the zoom feature lets you zoom right in on whatever depth you want.  If the 7 has a zoom feature, zoom in on the bottom 5 or 10 feet.

[buz23]

Milf Oil?  Sounds like you've got the wrong site.

On a more serious note, I set mine up by turning the dashboard off (takes up too much screen space), putting on a bottom zoom graph, and a vertical full depth display on the right side.  That let's me see a laker intercepting the jig on the way down or up at mid-depths. 

You'll want 6 colors.  I never mess with the target settings, just turn the sensitivity up so I can see my jig.  That may be anywhere from 5 to 20 depending on how deep and how small a jig.  I never use the flasher mode.

[redneckdan]

Was suppose to be milfoil, aka Myriophyllum.

Speaking of which, is it possible to determine weed type with sonar?

[prosty41]

Just pulled the trigger on the lx7. I'm waiting for it to arrive. I read the above post and it hit me that I'm going to have a ton to learn to use this thing properly. My question: does it come with good educational instructions or will I have to turn to the net/ trial and error to learn? By the way this is also my first flasher

[3300]

it's not hard to use. just record or print this topic and save it as a web page so you have reference. you can copy and paste into a new text and save that and print from that so only the set  up info is all you have too. the more options it has, the more tuneable it is, is all your seeing here. that's a very good thing and you can upgrade it to the lx9 later when your ready for eyes in the water too.
you got a great deal on it from jet!
i wish sponsors would do that for us. jet still made money off that deal.

here is the manual you wanted. the lx7
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-6s_LX-7.pdf?id=10

if you want to see the differences from the 7 to the 9
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/1/1/demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-9_users_guide.pdf?id=10

heres some thing i didn't know
READING THROUGH ICE
The Marcum LX-9 will provide accurate information reading through ice providing the ice is reasonably
clear.  Wet the ice with at least a cup of water to improve the coupling of the transducer
to the ice.
Place the face of the transducer firmly on the wetted ice, and you will now be able to see the depth
displayed digitally, and a signal showing the bottom (and fish) on whichever sonar windows you have
open. Drilling into the ice 1-2” before taking a reading may be necessary if the surface of the ice is very
rough, or if the ice is filled with air bubbles.

[redneckdan]

This is my first experience with flashers as well. Looking forward to getting some fish under it.

[prosty41]

it's not hard to use. just record or print this topic and save it as a web page so you have reference. you can copy and paste into a new text and save that and print from that so only the set  up info is all you have too. the more options it has, the more tuneable it is, is all your seeing here. that's a very good thing and you can upgrade it to the lx9 later when your ready for eyes in the water too.
you got a great deal on it from jet!
i wish sponsors would do that for us. jet still made money off that deal.

here is the manual you wanted. the lx7
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-6s_LX-7.pdf?id=10

if you want to see the differences from the 7 to the 9
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/1/1/demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-9_users_guide.pdf?id=10

heres some thing i didn't know
READING THROUGH ICE
The Marcum LX-9 will provide accurate information reading through ice providing the ice is reasonably
clear.  Wet the ice with at least a cup of water to improve the coupling of the transducer
to the ice.
Place the face of the transducer firmly on the wetted ice, and you will now be able to see the depth
displayed digitally, and a signal showing the bottom (and fish) on whichever sonar windows you have
open. Drilling into the ice 1-2” before taking a reading may be necessary if the surface of the ice is very
rough, or if the ice is filled with air bubbles.

Interesting but the 7 won't?

[3300]

sure it will, i just copied that info from the lx9 manual. that's what i had opened when i found the info. beside i just upgraded the lx7 to the lx9 and i wanted to see any differences.
get the lx7 manual from the link i posted to see what it does.

[prosty41]

it's not hard to use. just record or print this topic and save it as a web page so you have reference. you can copy and paste into a new text and save that and print from that so only the set  up info is all you have too. the more options it has, the more tuneable it is, is all your seeing here. that's a very good thing and you can upgrade it to the lx9 later when your ready for eyes in the water too.
you got a great deal on it from jet!
i wish sponsors would do that for us. jet still made money off that deal.

here is the manual you wanted. the lx7
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-6s_LX-7.pdf?id=10

if you want to see the differences from the 7 to the 9
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/1/1/demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-9_users_guide.pdf?id=10

heres some thing i didn't know
READING THROUGH ICE
The Marcum LX-9 will provide accurate information reading through ice providing the ice is reasonably
clear.  Wet the ice with at least a cup of water to improve the coupling of the transducer
to the ice.
Place the face of the transducer firmly on the wetted ice, and you will now be able to see the depth
displayed digitally, and a signal showing the bottom (and fish) on whichever sonar windows you have
open. Drilling into the ice 1-2” before taking a reading may be necessary if the surface of the ice is very
rough, or if the ice is filled with air bubbles.

Thank you

[3300]

also it says only have 2 inches in the water unless your in deep ice and go a little deeper, but then never have it under the ice plate.
marcum pointed this out to me when i called in about having to turn it higher than normal and i found a cut in the casing of the transducer.
he said only use an inch in the water. being we know it can read with out even being in the water, it's no surprise it need very little water. the reason you might need it a little deeper in the ice hole for deep is is the sides of the hole might block it some. it would depend on hole size and if it's centered or not.

the good thing about this being your new sonar, it will be hard to out grow and if they make new features for it it will be free for you to have them on yours via software/firmware.

[prosty41]

also it says only have 2 inches in the water unless your in deep ice and go a little deeper, but then never have it under the ice plate.
marcum pointed this out to me when i called in about having to turn it higher than normal and i found a cut in the casing of the transducer.
he said only use an inch in the water. being we know it can read with out even being in the water, it's no surprise it need very little water. the reason you might need it a little deeper in the ice hole for deep is is the sides of the hole might block it some. it would depend on hole size and if it's centered or not.

the good thing about this being your new sonar, it will be hard to out grow and if they make new features for it it will be free for you to have them on yours via software/firmware.

That and the fact that I can upgrade to the lx9 is the reason I bought it. Wish I had the funds for the 9. Oh well!

[3300]

your doing it right. when you are ready, you can upgrade it to the lx9. that's how i did it. i wanted to make sure the lx7 was right for me first, then spend more on it.
you'll know when your ready.

[gman51]

if having it in the water an inch or two is all you need then someone should tell that to the IDO pro staff fishing team that test these things.because every episode i have watched and that's damn near all of them have the ducer 2 or more feet down the hole.and struggle to get it out of the water everytime when landing the fish.pulling on the cord ,knocking over their flasher, and a little abuse when the ducer gets thrown on the ice as the end result. .unless your fishing on 4-12" of ice all winter long. i would guess 90%of people fishing with the lx series see at least 2' of ice in a season. and lastly why wouldn't they ( IDO TEAM) have it in the water that 1-2" and avoid all the hassle of the fish getting tangled up in the ducer. these guys know what their doing.

[3300]

page 4
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/1/1/demandware.edgesuite.net/aagv_prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-rapala-Library/default/v1448364706251/downloads/marcum/2015_MarCum_LX-9_users_guide.pdf?id=10

SETTING THE TRANSDUCER FOR ICE FISHING
When used in conjunction with the retractable pivoting transducer arm and rubber stopper, the LX-9’s transducer will automatically level itself in your ice hole. To begin operation, take the transducer out of
the recessed holder, and rotate the adjustable ice arm out from inside the shuttle. Extend the
transducer arm, (the cable should already be threaded through it with stopper in place) and deploy the
transducer into the water. We recommend setting your stopper to have the transducer down the least
amount possible.

The LX-9 (so does the lx-6 and lx-7) puts out enough power that in most cases it is not necessary to have your
transducer down more than a few inches below the water line to get a good reading.

When the ice thickness is over two feet, it may be necessary to have your transducer set somewhat farther down.
 
Remember--the less transducer cable you have out, the easier it is to pull it out of the water when
bringing in a fish, or to move to a new location. Under no circumstances should you ever have the ducer below the ice—this can lead to the ducer becoming damaged.

It is also important that you keep the cable near the center of the ice hole.  We frequently hear from
anglers who allowed their cable to freeze into the side of the ice hole.  If this should happen to you,
make sure the unit is turned off before attempting to chisel it out.  If you accidentally cut the
ducer cable, do not try to use that ducer again.

[gman51]

yeah i read all that came with the manual.so whats your opinion 3300 on why they have their ducers down so far.

[3300]

if i had to guess, it may be because they used sonars that had floats before they got the ones with arms and learned the wrong way (the right way for float systems) and hard habits are hard to break. i also came from a ducer float system that every one just removes the float and let the puck hang to be just under the plate so the cone wasn't being offset from touching the plate. i will do that still when i am in my shanty and the sonar is on a bucket with a dedicated hole or i'll use the arm while it's on the bucket. so long as fish aren't coming up thru it, it's okay, but not needed for the function of the unit. it's just a convenience.
you mentioned they knock over their sonars too, so to me they do not care about the sonar even if they know how to fish. it's their money and only 100$ for new transducers plus shipping and it they break the sonar it's only 130$ to get it fixed plus shipping.

i hope it's their equipment they are mistreating like that is all i can say!

that's why i never loan out tools. you hope people would treat them like their own and in this case that's not good either.

i learned it the hard way too. i had a cut in my ducer cord and chris from marcum said he would replace it and explained that the fish line can cut the line from fish getting wrapped in it. i am so careful when i have my blades on the auger exposed. i made a cut in my other bibs some how too and never knew when it happened.

what marcum is explaining is that it only needs to be wet to get a reading. they explain it can be used on top of the ice even and all it needs is a little water on top of the ice. so by saying it only needs to be in the water an inch or so makes sense. the only reason to drop it down further is if the side of the ice is blocking the view like marcum is trying to say. also having it center of the hole is more important as the ice thickens too. being a triangle patterned wave comes from it, if it hits the side of the ice, then the return would be compromised by being incomplete or not full circle.

the unit will work when it's well under the ice, that's not an issue, the issue is keeping your ducer safe and make fishing easier and to try to teach you that it doesn't need to be under the ice plate to just as well. you loose how big the  view diameter is when you lower it down too. so having it up as high as you can gives more view of the fish and bottom.
there is no reason to fish that way at all.
i think another reason would be to help with IR. under the plate can get more bounce from other sonars easier.

maybe you can think of good reasons to fish like IDO does, but i can't think of even one.

[redneckdan]

Caught my first fish by aid of a flasher!

[3300]

looks like you got it going on!! i like it!

if i may, try black back ground (saves you eyes and easier to see the charts, it should save some battery too). also the zoom didn't seem to be on auto so you lost a lot of the water column from it being more than half filled with the bottom.
you should be able to push the bottom of the normal vertical view (and the zoom view and the graph) so it's lower and that gives a better view above in the column and you see less of the bottoms return under the bottom line in red. in other words, the red line (bottom) should be as low as you can get it on the screen in all views/charts.

nice job on the fish too!

follow this link and look at my lx set up to see what i mean. 3rd pic down
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=316792.0

[redneckdan]

I'll give those settings a shot. I am going to red lake this weekend and dirt bagging it over night on the ice. Half day Sat, All Day Sun, possibly early Mon. Think the stock 9AH, plus two 7 AH will get me through?

[3300]

two and a half long days on ice? maybe, might be close. try to dim the back light the best you can to reserve the battery. displays on these and smart phones is the biggest drain. if you can add a small piece of foam under the battery and keep it off the ice, it will help too and if you have it in heat. i might add a hunk of reflectex to my battery spot in the shuttle. would be nice if companies made neoprene battery covers like they do for 1# lp gas cans. they need to make them for drills too.

i just got a power inverter for 23$ at bass pro free ship so i can charge batteries on the go. i use the battery tender jr and not the stock charger. has 2 usb ports too.

if you look at your car battery it has cca (cold cranking amps) and normal cranking amps. you loose about 200 amps when it hits 32 degrees. so try to keep them warm including the spares. normally we don't care about that, but you want to extend them as long as you can.

i use an ammo box to hold spare and shack lighting sla batteries. you could add some foam rubber or reflectex and a hand warmer if you want longer run times.

[redneckdan]

Came up with 2 more 7 AH, so I have the stock 9AH and four 7 AH. I tweaked the screen parameters to Night and minimum brightness. Looking forward to really getting to use this thing.

[3300]

sounds like your set!

i am ready for ice too. i want to get the lx9 wet lol. some new brand and types of jigs and a new shack and chairs and reels and line and rods and too much to keep thinking about. maybe january will be ice for us here. so another month.
thinking about getting some knee boots and get the kayak back out so i can play with some of the new stuff.

[prosty41]

my lx-7 just came yeteray right as i had to leave town..so its sitting at home in the box anxiously awaiting my return

[3300]

your not gonna get it out?

they say you can use a hard floor like cement floors and use it to practice.

it does have simulation mode to see how it works too and you can play with the setting while in simulation mode.

[prosty41]

I plan to get it out as soon as I get home. But I had to go on a trip Tge very moment it arrived

[redneckdan]

Set it to your recommendations, made it 26 hours on the stock battery.