cold start problem?

[chop1]

i pick up a 2nd hand 1998 jiffy arctic blast 2 hp auger.  it starts fine when it's in the warm garage but when left out side in -10 weather it's a no go ?
any idea's . it has fresh gas , plug looks  new 

[52isntbigenough]

Sounds like a choke issue. I take it you're using the choke?

[chop1]

chokes on , this is my first gas auger

[chop1]

i used premium gas with sabre 100:1 mix mixed to 80:1. should i have used reg gas?

[BIGCREW]

You May just need to get the carb tuned in or a rebuild it is an older model and a carb kit is only a few bucks, how does the spark plug look,thats the best way to see how the motor is running. 

[Rebelss]

How many times are you priming it? Read starting procedure for your engine....page 4.

http://www.jiffyonice.com/EComStore/ContentImages/Image/Jiffy30SeriesManual.pdf

[chop1]

there's no primer bulb.

[Rebelss]

Yours doesn't have a primer bulb on the housing? It is the 2500 series Arctic blast, right?

[chop1]

model 75 arctic blast 2hp

[esox_xtm]

Every gas motor is a little different. Choke, half choke, full choke, prime 3, 4, 5, 7 or however many times. Pull twice, choke on, then third pull, choke off. Just sayin'.....

I had a temperamental Harley (long time ago) full choke, two kicks, choke off, half throttle, third kick..... every time Barooom! Deviate from the standard, flood the thing and it's at least two long drinks before it's ready.

All I'll say is if everything is in order, new plug, good gas, properly adjusted carb you should be able to find a solution.

[Idahogator]

Yup, second that.    And if it sat with ethanol messed up gasoline in it for more than 30 days, it needs a carb job.   

[esox_xtm]

All due respect I'll disagree on the ethanol thing. Not that it doesn't present problems, but they're not insurmountable. In WI we've only been able to buy ethanol gas for, oh maybe a couple of decades. Sure, you can find premium without, but it's not always the right answer.

Case in point, my OMC outboard (first performance fishing rig) I fueled with non-ethanol premium, By the second year I'd lost performance to the point where a 65 mph rig could barely muster 50. Turned out the 120 Johnny is engineered for 87 octane. Period. Anything higher the motor runs too cool and fouls everything up. Got it cleaned out, went back to 87 and all's good.

That said, it is a challenge to maintain that system with ethanol based fuels. Regular use of fuel stabilizers is required. I used Sea-Foam for a long time until I had a can of full strength phase separate one year. I switched to Stabil Marine formula and I've use Startron from time to time with no issues. End story is that I have had ZERO issues over the last 18 years. I know this may not match up to other experiences but it has been mine. Dose heavy at the end of the season, leave fuel in the system, top off with fresh when you want to go and give 'er. Never failed. Outboards (2x), chainsaws (2x) weed whacker, leaf blower....... no problems. (edit: don't forget the power auger(s) 2x).

Just my experiences, UMMV.

[Idahogator]

Good success story.

I've taken the easy way and only used Amsoil products since , hm,  '79 or '80.

The 2 cycle synthetics have stabilizers already in. 

No worry, no fogging, no enrichment.     ( no  carb problems, no carbon build up )   

[chop1]

so back to my problem lol, should i try sea foam or just rebuild the carb to get it run in cold weather ?

[Idahogator]

Yes, Mr. Chop,  at least look inside the carb or else have it looked at/overhauled.   Careful who you trust with that.     

[esox_xtm]

'98? It may be ready for carb work, sure won't hurt anything. I'm rebuilding the carb on my 3 hp Tecumseh from, mmmm, must be '94-95. A motor that age might benefit from a decarb as well. Check on performance outboard sites for details, but the short story is that carbon builds and affects compression and breathing. Sea-Foam / Deep Creep is the preferred product for remedy that.

If you're running ethanol DO use a fuel stabilizer. Do use fresh gas. Do experiment with different starting routines until you find one it likes, maybe fine tune from there a little.

So answer to your question is yes and yes.

[alaskaruss1]

'98? It may be ready for carb work, sure won't hurt anything. I'm rebuilding the carb on my 3 hp Tecumseh from, mmmm, must be '94-95. A motor that age might benefit from a decarb as well. Check on performance outboard sites for details, but the short story is that carbon builds and affects compression and breathing. Sea-Foam / Deep Creep is the preferred product for remedy that.

If you're running ethanol DO use a fuel stabilizer. Do use fresh gas. Do experiment with different starting routines until you find one it likes, maybe fine tune from there a little.

So answer to your question is yes and yes.

     Sea Foam used as routine maintenance is a good idea. I use it in the auger,  side by side,  boat and snow machine.

[lefty2053]

X2 on who you trust. I took an ATV in to have the carb rebuilt once and watched one of the guys working on another machine. He was using an air compressor and a can of Carb cleaner on it. SO I asked them if they were going to rebuild mine or just clean it out. They said they would try to clean it out first. If that didn't work they would rebuild it. If I hadn't seen that guy doing that I would have been charged for a rebuild instead of just cleaning it out I am sure of that.

As for the Sea foam I would put some in there and run it hard on and off and see if it doesn't clean it out some for you.

I only use Non-Ethanol fuel,mid grade 87 and Stihl Chainsaw oil. Works for me after 4 years.

[esox_xtm]

So the trust issue is more relative to the service(s) than the skills required to do the work yourself? I've done a couple rebuild kits on Briggs motors with good results. No substitute for keeping them clean to begin with. Second hand stuff can be a crap shoot, no tellin' how it was card for before it lands in your lap.

As far as using an additive regularly, it's like the Fram filter guy used to say: Pay me now or pay me later.....

[chop1]

i don't usually buy used stuff but it was a friends dad and he only used it twice ( under 12 holes i was told )and it sat in his garage. it was a smoking deal and in brand new condition. I am going to try sea foam and if that don't work i'll  rebuild the carb

[esox_xtm]

i don't usually buy used stuff but it was a friends dad and he only used it twice ( under 12 holes i was told )and it sat in his garage. it was a smoking deal and in brand new condition. I am going to try sea foam and if that don't work i'll  rebuild the carb

That's one of the biggest problems with lightly used stuff. Looks to be a great deal on the surface but stuff dries and deteriorates if not stretched or wet regularly. Bet that carb diaphragm is board stiff..... Run a double dose of SF to start, get 'er going then shut it down and let the SF do it's stuff. If it's just a varnished carb that should clear it up in three or four (worst case) restarts. Do let it sit a couple hours at least before restarting.

S'funny, I just had to revive a Craftsman chainsaw that was lightly used and sat for 7 years. Got it started but no full throttle, no top end power, inconsistent running at all speeds but idle. Cleaned it out with marine Stabil; took into the third day before it straightened out.

[Kevin23]

I'd also suggest seafoam. And a new NGK plug, actually two of them. If you get the sucker to start, hammer down on the throttle and burn some gas through it. It will probably smoke like heck with all the gunk getting blown through it. After you run it for a bit, pull the plug and clean it real well and re-gap if its still good. If its burnt up then put in the other one and you should be good to go. Keep starting and burning some seafoam mix through it for a little while, then put some fresh gas in it and you'll be golden.

Had the same issue with a log splitter and that fixed the issue.

[Idahogator]

All these many years and I've never had these problems.

Left fuel in a chain saw 4 1/2 years. It started on the second pull and ran perfectly.

Maybe the reason is I'm just lucky.

It also speaks LOUDLY of only using Amsoil products since the early 1980's.       

[Rebelss]

Guess I never have either, 'Gator. BUT, I go thru mine every year and know how to do things properly. Guess I DID have an issue with my snowblower 2 weeks ago...the primer bulb was too soft....uh oh...
Pulled carb housing cover and the primer line had broken at carb...3 minutes later I was back in business. Nice to have different size fuel hose on hand. She sure purred along today. Oh ya, it started on the first pull.  ROOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAR   

[nocod]

seafoam is  carb cleaning magic imo  ,used  it in the klr,atv,auger,give it a go.

[tiptoe]

It starts and runs fine when it's warm so, it sounds like it just won't prime when it's wicked cold. I have had 2-stroke small engines without a primer bulb that can be hard to start in summer temps!
Here are my suggestions:
First I would make sure that the choke is actually moving into place when you move the lever(when it's -10).
Second would be to remove and clean out the fuel line. I've done it with carb cleaner.

The fuel additives are a great idea too.  They just take a little longer to work.

[da man cave shack]

Some heat in the gas can never hurt either.

[chop1]

i put in a S--t load of sea foam in the tank and ran it for a while Saturday. started it after a hour and ran it good again. seems to be getting better and then to day i took it to the pond after work and it started up easy ,running prity good  now on to blades , how do you tell if there dull? slow cutting.
cheers

[chop1]

was just looking at the blade and i have the  original 1800 series blade , looks like i'm going to get the new ripper blades . that should speed things up .

[chop1]

well still no start at 10 -15 below