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| | |-+  Another UHMW runner question.
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Author Topic: Another UHMW runner question.  (Read 1147 times)
Skipper
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« on: Oct 31, 2009, 07:46 PM »

This question is for the guys who put the UHMW plastic runners on their sleds...

I have a Voyager that I better put slides on before I drag the bottom out of it. I was wondering if 1/4 inc thick UHMW is thick enough to properly countersink bolt heads or pop rivets into? I would just go up to 1/2, but it costs more and it wont bend as easily. Should I use bolts or pop rivets?

I already emailed US Plastics, and they WILL cut the stuff into short enough lengths for UPS to deliver.
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Bean
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« Reply #1 on: Oct 31, 2009, 07:54 PM »

Skipper, I used the 1/4" and had no problem with countersinking it. It's been on for 2 ice seasons and occasionally dragging it across parking lots and it still looks new. I think US plastic has gotten a couple thousand dollars in orders from Iceshanty users in the last couple years.  The power of the shanty. Grin
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Skipper
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« Reply #2 on: Oct 31, 2009, 07:59 PM »

Do we have a sales team? Grin

If they packaged the stuff and sold it pre cut, they would be rollin in it! I will likely go with 4 7' peices of 1x1/4 then.

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brittlab
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« Reply #3 on: Oct 31, 2009, 08:40 PM »

I used 1/4" as well with no issues with the bolts.
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mbart
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« Reply #4 on: Oct 31, 2009, 09:21 PM »

Used 1/4"x2" UHMW on my guide, countersunk the mounting holes with a forstner bit. Applied GE silicone to the underside of the wearstrip to prevent water entering the sled. Used aluminum pop rivets to attach the wear strips. Someone should notify the vendor about the activity generated by this site.
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CMMahy
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« Reply #5 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:01 PM »

Have you considered snowmobile sliders (hyfax)? I'm going to be installing 2 lengths of plain black short track sliders under my pro, using a heat gun as needed to make the bend. Give a lot more depth, and might save a bit of coin. Just a thought.
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Tainterslayer
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« Reply #6 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:04 PM »

That stuff is tough enough to allow counter sinking at 1/4" but I would use a flat head bolt like this
I bet my left nut that you won't ever come close to ripping out one of these.
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Sven936
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« Reply #7 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:07 PM »

I am with Tainterslayer.   I have delrin runners 1/4" and I used the countersunk flathead bolt in stainless.   No issues!!!
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Skipper
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« Reply #8 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:13 PM »

Have you considered snowmobile sliders (hyfax)? I'm going to be installing 2 lengths of plain black short track sliders under my pro, using a heat gun as needed to make the bend. Give a lot more depth, and might save a bit of coin. Just a thought.

I need four seven foot lengths of it, 28 feet total. The Voyager is a BIG stinking trap. I dont have enough used hyfax around to pull that off. Hyfax is about $14 a stick, UHMW is about a buck a foot in 1x1/2.
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mbart
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« Reply #9 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:40 PM »

Ever look at a Otter hyfax kit, predrilled, contersunk holes, and stainless steel mounting hardware. Installed one on my small sled, like everything Otter it's not cheap.
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Skipper
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« Reply #10 on: Oct 31, 2009, 10:42 PM »

I can drill my own holes for the price. This stuff is gonna cost $28+shipping, that is tough to beat.
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wnybassman
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« Reply #11 on: Nov 01, 2009, 08:22 PM »

I can drill my own holes for the price. This stuff is gonna cost $28+shipping, that is tough to beat.

Wait til you buy the stainless hardware   Wink


I bought the UHMW from US Plastics a month ago for both my FT Scout and Frabil TrekkerII.  Total for both was $40

I got enough stainless hardware the other day to mount the stuff on one shanty or the other, and it was another $26.  I would have got enough for both but I cleaned them out of the size bolts I wanted   Grin   Oh, in that $26 was a new countersink bit also, that was $5.

I suppose I could have got away with non-stainless stuff, but I'm the type to overdo things.
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Skipper
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« Reply #12 on: Nov 01, 2009, 08:40 PM »

My Dad has a 5 gallon pail full of aluminum pop rivets for some reason, I think I will use those. Dad also has all the counter sink bits and stuff like that. His personal stash of drill bits and cutting tools puts all but the finest hardware stores to shame. The man has been hoarding tools for 50 years, it works out pretty good for me! Grin
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rlowery
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« Reply #13 on: Nov 01, 2009, 11:58 PM »

how far apart do you put your bolts/rivets?
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dcso3009
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« Reply #14 on: Nov 02, 2009, 01:40 PM »

I used 1 1/4x 1/2 on my Yukon.  I attached them at the front edge, the back end then 3 in between.  I really like the runners curved up the front of the sled.



A tip... attach the front, and then heat and bend it in place.  I did mine in about 30 minutes.  I used Stainless hardware with washers, and nylon nuts on the inside of the tub.  I also added a dab of silicone to the tops of the nuts just as a back up. 
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big-brother
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« Reply #15 on: Nov 02, 2009, 07:21 PM »

Have you considered snowmobile sliders (hyfax)? 
Check with a local snomo shop on user slideravailability as a lot of repair shops have tons of perfectly useable old sliders lying around after servicing someones sled.Most will just give them away free...............Can't beat free.
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Hollywood703
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« Reply #16 on: Nov 04, 2009, 04:33 PM »

Im hoping my cousin can pick me up some of the hyfax ......i told him burnt up works just fine if its free. Figure i can get 48" strips from some.......and get enough to replace as needed......
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Michigan Mafia
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« Reply #17 on: Nov 04, 2009, 05:02 PM »

Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this post. I actually work for a plastics company in Michigan and we have a warehouse full of every grade and thickness plastic that you might need. We also have CNC routers that will cut and drill any shape or size. Let me know if I could be of any help.
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Hollywood703
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« Reply #18 on: Nov 04, 2009, 05:14 PM »

where abouts in MI?
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Skipper
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« Reply #19 on: Nov 04, 2009, 05:18 PM »

Is UMHW the ideal product for the cost?
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