FNE's guide to keeping bait!

[FishingNewEngland]

Keeping bait in a few easy steps

For many ice fishermen, trapping your own bait is an effective and cost saving method of having a fresh supply for the entire season. Keeping bait can be achieved in a few easy steps that will ensure a healthy and plentiful batch to get you through to ice out.

My name is Mark and for the last 20 or so years, I’ve kept a variety of fresh and salt water aquariums. Along the way, I’ve picked up vital information about keeping fish alive that I’m going to share with you.

There are a few important items you will need in order to keep bait alive and healthy through the ice fishing season. These are….

1) A tank to keep your bait
2) Filtration
3) Water conditioning chemicals
4) Aeration

Below, I’ll break down each of the items separately. Please bookmark this handy guide to reference in the future should you need help.


1) A tank to keep your bait

When setting up a bait tank for the winter, you must think about your goals for the season. If you’re a pike fisherman, which requires large bait, you’ll want to have a tank large enough to keep the bait alive. If you keep shiners for bass, perch, etc, a smaller tank will do. For reference, I’ll use my bait storage system as an example. I keep shiners in a Rubbermaid 100 gallon “Stock tank” for the season….



These can be purchased from any tractor supply or feed store in your areas. Large glass aquariums from you local pet store will work as well.

One important thing to keep in mind is that you do not want to “Over stock” your tank. A 10 gallon aquarium will not hold 200 shiners for the season without significant die off. An average rule of thumb in the aquarium hobby is 1”-2” of fish per gallon of water. With proper filtration, you can easily keep more than that in a tank. Which brings me to my next topic.





2) Filtration

Proper water filtration is a very important key to keeping your bait alive. A simple air stone and a prayer will just not do it. I’ve seen many “home made” filters which, while ingenious, in my opinion are not recommended. In my tank, I use a Marineland Magnum 350 canister filter. This provides mechanical (solid wastes) and biological (bacteria) filtration in one sealed unit. The filter is easy to take apart and changing the cartridges is a one step process.



In my filter, I use a poly fiber pad in addition to granulated carbon in a container on the inside. These are purchased at my local pet store and are very inexpensive. The poly pad collects waste while the carbon removes odors and colors from the water. Changing the pad and carbon should be done monthly as they can only hold so much. I recommend that in an overstocked tank, these be changed more frequently.

Understanding what happens in your filter will give you a better idea of how to keep your bait alive. In all aquariums, you must have a biological bacteria colony which consumes waste. There are several types of bacteria which grow in your aquarium and filter that live on the waste from your fish. When a new tank is set up, a “cycling process” begins. This is the process where the bacteria begin to grow in your aquarium. Once your tank is set up and you add your first fish, the process begins. The urine from your fish will begin an ammonia cycle. The bacteria that grow and consume ammonia, give off nitrite as waste. Then a bacteria grows to consume that and those give off nitrate which is the non toxic “end product” and is safe for your fish. This process can take anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks. You can shorten this period by using as much water as possible for the area you’re trapping in. The idea is that the water you’re taking from the pond/lake where you trap is already “cycled” and has that bacteria alive and thriving.


3) Water conditioning chemicals

In order to make water safe for you and I to drink, it is loaded with products that are toxic to fish. Chlorine, chloramines, fluorides, and other chemicals that make water safe for us will actually burn fish if they are not removed. Removal of these chemicals can be done in a couple of ways. The least expensive method is to “cure” water in a barrel before you use it. This is the process where you leave water uncovered in a container for at least 48 hours. The surface contact with the air will naturally de-chlorinate the water and make it safe for use. If you’re as impatient as I am, there are products you can buy that will do the same thing in far less time.  I use a product called “Start Right” from Jungle Laboratories. This is available at your local pet store. There are also several other products available that do the same thing. Adding these products to your tap water will make it safe for use in your tank within minutes. I recommend treating your water before you put it in your tank, especially if it already has fish in it.

4) Aeration

All fish breathe dissolved oxygen through their gills in the water column. Aerating you water properly will provide the necessary oxygen that is depleted as the fish breathe. This is easily accomplished using a couple of methods. An air pump attached to a diffusing air stone is one such method. Another method is the use of a “spray bar” which is attached to the output end of your filter. Any surface agitation in your tank will aid in oxygenation. In my tank, I run both an air pump and have a spray nozzle at the end of my filter. The spray nozzle forces the water into the tank at a high speed, thus agitating it to allow an air exchange as it hits the surface. If there’s not enough oxygenation at the water’s surface, the fish will suffocate.



That’s about as basic as I can make it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have if you’d like me to go into more detail on a topic. Hopefully you end up with enough bait to keep yourself fishing for the season.

Tight lines everyone!!!

[Tailgunner]

FNE...Nicely done!!!  Clear and concise, excellent text and photographs as well........Thank you

[FishingNewEngland]

Thanks. Having worked for a pet store for years, I've had to learn how to explain things like this in terms evryone can understand. Figured it could be put to good use here as well.

Flag up!

[1MOFISH]

question? could you turn a 300 gallon tank in to a self sustaining biosphere like an outdoor pond?im using the waterfall method pump.  I pump water from the bottom of my tank into a bucket with a drain that allows water to fall back into the tank, thus aerating the water.  The bucket has egg foam, polyfoam, carbon sheets, and carbon media in layers.  The bottom filter and pump has a foam biofilter in it to hold the beneficial bacteria, a screen, which pumps 550 gph.  Someone told me to add lava rocks to my filter and to my tank to harbor beneficial bacteria, but I haven't gotten to the store yet to do this.  Thanks for your ideas.
Mo

[FishingNewEngland]

question? could you turn a 300 gallon tank in to a self sustaining biosphere like an outdoor pond?im using the waterfall method pump.  I pump water from the bottom of my tank into a bucket with a drain that allows water to fall back into the tank, thus aerating the water.  The bucket has egg foam, polyfoam, carbon sheets, and carbon media in layers.  The bottom filter and pump has a foam biofilter in it to hold the beneficial bacteria, a screen, which pumps 550 gph.  Someone told me to add lava rocks to my filter and to my tank to harbor beneficial bacteria, but I haven't gotten to the store yet to do this.  Thanks for your ideas.
Mo

Mo,

You certainly can use that method. I'd suggest "bio-balls" rather than lava rocks. Lava rock can leech minerals into your water and make it very hard. Hard water will stress the fish if that's not what they're used to. For you "bucket filter", try the following in these layers from top to bottom...

poly pad (to remove solid wastes)
carbon pad/filter bags with carbon (for odor and color control)
bio balls on the bottom (biological filtration)

Then the water drips from the bottom. Hope it helps!

[jeepsw1]

Don't see one in the photos, but i'd suggest some type of lid for you tanks...the big ones sometimes have a tendency to go suicidal and jump from the tank.

I have the same tank, made a plywood lid with a plexiglass window, to allow in light when i'm netting them out.

[1MOFISH]

use bioballs in my prefilter ceramic white plastic blue and carbon black in layers with carbon closest to the pumps outflow found them at petco real cheap id like to run more like a pond than a tank also lid is a great idea ive had them jump through a 1" hole i screen and tape all the openings what about seasalt ? thankx   mo

[1MOFISH]

one other thing carryin capacity i can get over a 1000 in my tank thats 3.33 per gallon any way to support that mass any ideas    mo

[WHITETAIL111]

FNE...Great post.  Thanks for your information.  I have a couple questions.  I'm simply using a 35 gallon tote filled with water currently as I'm looking for a bigger hardsided tank....but for now, what I have, is what I'll use.  I'm using a waterfall 30 gallon filter which uses the "bag type" carbon filtration and a 5" airstone bubbling air from the bottom.   I don't want to put too many fish in it in fear that I may lose them due to the ammonia buildup over time.  Most of my baits will be in the 5-8" range for pike.  I plan on doing 1/3 water changes about every 2-3 weeks.  So far a week has gone by, and everything is fine.  I have about 3 dozen dace in this set up currently.  I want to go get more for the tank, but I don't want to add too many to this set up. The tank is outside for now until freezing temps arrive then I'll bring into my unfinished cellar where it stays very cold.  In your opinion, how many baits could this tank hold before it gets overfilled with fish?  Should these fish be fed at all?  Thanks.

[FishingNewEngland]

FNE...Great post.  Thanks for your information.  I have a couple questions.  I'm simply using a 35 gallon tote filled with water currently as I'm looking for a bigger hardsided tank....but for now, what I have, is what I'll use.  I'm using a waterfall 30 gallon filter which uses the "bag type" carbon filtration and a 5" airstone bubbling air from the bottom.   I don't want to put too many fish in it in fear that I may lose them due to the ammonia buildup over time.  Most of my baits will be in the 5-8" range for pike.  I plan on doing 1/3 water changes about every 2-3 weeks.  So far a week has gone by, and everything is fine.  I have about 3 dozen dace in this set up currently.  I want to go get more for the tank, but I don't want to add too many to this set up. The tank is outside for now until freezing temps arrive then I'll bring into my unfinished cellar where it stays very cold.  In your opinion, how many baits could this tank hold before it gets overfilled with fish?  Should these fish be fed at all?  Thanks.

If you increase your water changes and use a ammonia removing resin with your carbon, I don't see why you can't keep 50-60 in there. Only issue I'd watch for is in 35 gallons, it would be way overcrowded. Be sure and oxygenate the water well too.

[FishingNewEngland]

use bioballs in my prefilter ceramic white plastic blue and carbon black in layers with carbon closest to the pumps outflow found them at petco real cheap id like to run more like a pond than a tank also lid is a great idea ive had them jump through a 1" hole i screen and tape all the openings what about seasalt ? thankx   mo

Aquariums salt stimulates the slime coat growth in the fish. I'd use it in moderate amounts.

[WHITETAIL111]

What would the ammonia removing resin be called if I were to buy it?  Is there a special kind you'd suggest?  Would I simply get it at some place like PetCo? 

[FishingNewEngland]

Petco sells it. I use Ammo-Carb. It's a mix of ammonia removing resin and carbon.

[1MOFISH]

Petco sells it. I use Ammo-Carb. It's a mix of ammonia removing resin and carbon.

was at petsmart they have a lot of pond stuff on clearance fne what about barley      mo

[FishingNewEngland]

Barley? As a filter material I've never used it. As a beer making material, all the time. 

[WHITETAIL111]

FNE, about the Ammo Carb ammonia remover.....it appears to be a solid.  Do you add it into the filter bag on the waterfall filter?  Does it just replace the existing carbon you add, or do you add it along with the existing carbon.  I'd imagine that as long as you rinse it well, the Ammo Carb can just be added in or used as a stand alone carbon that just replaces the little bags of carbon??

[FishingNewEngland]

FNE, about the Ammo Carb ammonia remover.....it appears to be a solid.  Do you add it into the filter bag on the waterfall filter?  Does it just replace the existing carbon you add, or do you add it along with the existing carbon.  I'd imagine that as long as you rinse it well, the Ammo Carb can just be added in or used as a stand alone carbon that just replaces the little bags of carbon??

What kind of filter are you using? If you can add the ammo carb to the existing filter bag, that will work. Otherwise, buy a filter bag to use. I will replace your current carbon or can be used with both. And yes, you'll rinse it like you would with regular carbon.

[1MOFISH]

Barley? As a filter material I've never used it. As a beer making material, all the time. 

i knew something was goin on? my minnows swimmin upside down and they werent dead  lol   mo's micro brewed minnows i think i should taste the water to see if its alright      mooooooo

[Kevin23]

Nicely done! Have you ever tried seachem prime? The regular prime and prime pond are the same thing. VERY concentrated. I have been using that in all of my ponds/tanks for the last 5 or 6 years.

[FishingNewEngland]

Yep, prime is good too. Does the same thing as other de-chlorinators. Good stuff!

[jayswimmer09]

great post!!!!

[1MOFISH]

great post!!!!

iceshanty wikipedia  lol  mo

[Thumber]

Mark,

Thanks that was great info

[9huskies]

What about maintaining the temperature in the tank?  I don't have an unheated basement to keep it in.  I think it would freeze in my unheated garage.  I was thinking of sinking the tank in to the ground and using an insulated cover.  Let the ground's geothermal energy keep it at a constant temperature.

[FishingNewEngland]

What about maintaining the temperature in the tank?  I don't have an unheated basement to keep it in.  I think it would freeze in my unheated garage.  I was thinking of sinking the tank in to the ground and using an insulated cover.  Let the ground's geothermal energy keep it at a constant temperature.

My tank is in my unheated garage. Sinking the tank or insulating it is a good idea.

[Bear32]

  Thanks for posting this, I'm going to try & trap & keep some bait this year. Question for you , how much does a filter like the one you have cost?
Thanks

[1moslab]

great info fne.i have used the magnum pro 350 and do not like it i think it is vastly inferior to fluval.nitrate is less harmfull to fish then nitrite but it is harmfull,that is one reason water changes are so important.water changes also replenish trace elements that the fish need,and oxygen.colder water holds more oxygen and the fish need less to eat which means less waste.if the water is kept cold they should need hardly any food at all.i have at least 75" of fish in a 125 gallon tank,they are Africans and need to be a little crowded because of aggression .the key is over filter and water changes.my filters turn my water volume over 5 times an hour,i do a 1-third water change every 2-3 wks.you might want to check your water treatment plant for what it uses treat your water.chlorine will leach out of your water in a few days but chloramines do not!!!!!!! it will burn your fishes gills and kill them,you must use a water conditioner i always have two on stock amquel plus removes nitrate,nitite,ammonia,chlorine and chloramines.this is great stuff guys if you have and ammonia spike from adding too many fish before your bacteria is established enough to take the load this will remove it.but it smells.my main water conditioner is stress coat plus,i have used it for years and it has never let me down.i think probably the biggest mistake made is feeding too much.good luck everyone.

[FishingNewEngland]

Just tossing this to the top if anyone needs a refresher.

Feel free to ask any questions. I'm always happy to help any way I can.

Tight lines!

FNE

[BaitWrangler]

Nice tutorial FNE! Very clear and descriptive for new commers to the bait game. I think the water could be a little better though with a larger filter and the addition of some sort of bottom drain - but I am very finiky with fish.

Also, lava rock / other rocks are okay to use in filtration systems. If you monitor ph and notice any differences, or just used in conjunction anyways, oyster shell chicken grit works as a natural buffer and is also a great final stage water polisher.

[Bellybuster]

I've been considering doing this for several years but keep coming back to the freezing issue.
   I'm sure I can keep the tank from freezing with a stock tank heater but what about the filter and lines? Even with the pump running I'm sure the lines and filter will probably freeze
   Anyone out there running a bait tank in an unheated garage where temps get way below freezing for long periods?